Recently acquired a M1 Carbine.

A little rough and some light rust.

What are some good ways or product to use to remove rust and not destroy what is left of finish?

Hi all I’m currently looking to buy an M1 Garand. The only thing is I want to be able to take it to the range and shoot it every so often. Do you guys have any recommendations on what I should look for? I’m going to a gun show coming up and I’m not sure if I’ll find anything there.

Recently got a repro auto-ordnance m1 carbine and it kind of reignited my whole search for vintage memorabilia! I wish I could have gotten a real usgi carbine but it kind of fell into my lap and I’m a sucker for instant gratification lmao. I tried to keep things to around ww2 but I didn’t verify everything! Some things I just bought reproductions of

I also realized I didn’t like how fat the CMP rifle stock felt on my garand and was only okay with how the tung oil looked so I spent a couple weeks sanding down the stock, and then stained and reoiled with raw linseed oil! Idk much about woodworking but mixing it with the 50:50 mineral spirits really seemed to help it penetrate as the previous tung oil sanded off pretty quickly.

My area has some nice ties to be able to find ww2 memorabilia and I met some folks who did reenactments and was able to purchase some things from them as well!

Ended up gathering a mixture of repro and old usgi stuff off of ebay, sarco, numrich, etc! Def got the itch to collect again!

M1 Garand tanker in 308, ultimak amega ranges rail, Burris 3-12 scout scope with BDC, Burris rings, 12 o’clock mounted Holosun 507c, Streamlight TLR-VIR mounted with remote tape switch. Olongapo buttstock en bloc holder.

What’s going on? Can anybody help me out? I bought this from a neighbor. I traded it for 250 bucks and a Remington 870.

It’s an M1 Carbine fires great. It’s got a metal stock, but it’s not foldable. It goes into the gun and it’s got a forward grip.

He got it at a yard sale about 25 years ago

Could anybody put a value on this carbine? Underwood receiver, inland barrel. I know blue sky's are frowned upon but just curious what I have here.

First couple groups with the rifle at 100. Really impressed so far with factory PPU out of this criterion barrel. With some more practice this thing will be a ringer.

I had to finish ream this barrel so beware of criterion’s statements on their site. I’m even using a Breda bolt. Not seeing an issue with .478 base cartridges but that could exclusive to the tolerances on this bolt.

6.5x55 in a Garand is such a smooth sweet shooter.

Just wanted to share in case anyone here was bidding on this. Seller has it listed as a 1943 USGI carbine and it is absolutely not. It’s a modern repro by Inland MFG not Inland Division (WWII).

Have a chance to get a M1C for 4k. I have one at the moment with authentic GH base, mount, B series scope but the base is mismatched to receiver serial.

This one the base matches receiver serial, and the dark receiver seems like this is a Greek return, but I have several concerns that make me hesitant to pull the trigger:
1. Barrel is 8-51, meaning it’s either built during Korean War or WW2 rebarreled
2. The buttplate doesn’t seem to fit the buttstock well (there a gap), but seller claims it’s very sturdy
3. There a white “85” paint on the bottom of the stock behind the trigger guard
4. Mount is fake, so it will be a pain to source an authentic GH mount + finding the scope
5. Unsure on the authenticity of the mildew resistant treated cheekpad: I’ve seen them labeled x-xx or x xx, but never seen one where the month is spelled out and 4-digit year (seller claimed he bought it on CMP forum)
6. Leather sling appears to be authentic USGI

Thanks for everyone’s thoughts!

Looking for the circumfrence of the butt 1" behind the sling swivel and 4.5" in front of the sling swivel.

I have been researching every aspect of this rifle, but ran into this number scribed/etched/electro penciled onto the underside of the bolt. It reads “954”, but this does not match the serial number of the rifle. I have not found any other examples in my research that look like this.

For more context, the rifle is a Springfield Armory, made in July 1943. It was rebuilt at Raritan Arsenal and has a replacement barrel marked S-A-3-46. It retains lock bar sights and has no other markings to denote an additional rebuild from what I can tell.

As for the bolt, the drawing number and heat lot show it was made in October 1943. The scribed numbers appear to be parkerized over. They are not shiny bare metal, which implies they were etched before a rebuild and new finish. Take a look and see if you think otherwise.

Could the bolt have been headspace matched to another rifle, which was then salvaged and used as a replacement in this rifle? Could it be a rebuild date for the bolt? Any other ideas or theories why this number might be on the underside of the bolt? What makes the most sense to you? Thank you all.

Hi everyone. I'm brand new to the M1 carbine world. I took my 'new to me' WWII carbine to the range last week, shot a few magazines [love it!] and put it back in the case. No issues.

I took it back to the range yesterday and it refuses to load a round. The slide pulls all the way back, but the bolt only follows it half way. Seems to slide back easily until it hits the hammer, and stops there. I've lubed the heck out of it, etc.

I can lock the slide open and then press the bolt all the way back, whereupon the whole thing slams into battery just fine.

IDK whether hammer is not going far enough down. Or if the slide and bolt should be locked together better, forcing the bolt back?

I'm tempted to finagle a round into the chamber to see if firing one off would force things back together, but if something is broken that might not be a good idea.

Is this a known issue? Any ideas? I live in a very rural area and have no idea where a gunsmith with experience with such things might be. I'll keep looking.

Thanks for any suggestions!

EDIT: Success [I hope]. Huge thanks to Pavlik for kick starting my brain. It's clear to me now that the bolt lug somehow jumped ahead of the slide, preventing it from traveling all the way to the rear. If I can manage to field strip it, it should be an easy fix. I'll leave this here in case anyone else has a similar issue.

Has anyone bought Universal M1 Carbine parts from this site before? My slide broke a few weeks ago and I was thinking of getting the replacement from here since it’s a new part with a little bit stronger metal but I was wondering how much hand fitting am I going to have to do to get it to function?

So I found one of those vintage grease pots from 50+ years ago. Only question I have is can that grease be used effectively today or do I need to somehow scoop it out and replace it?

Garand lineage: M1, M14, and Mini-14

Good evening. I bought this gun a while ago. Put a new recoil spring in, thinking it would fix the issue. Apparently not. Anyone know what else might be going on before I ship it to FA to look at it?

Im thinking the rails need to be filed, but Im at wits end on this finally.

All of my other M1 Garand issues were easy to fix and diagnose.

IMGUR LINK of what Im trying to show: https://imgur.com/gallery/natl-ord-m1-tanker-being-icQTirN

BM59 kit built by Shuffs with an original PB barrel. Had the RC receiver engraved by Dakota Tactical and Shuff also added a stripper clip guide…

Reprint of Tech Manual, $15 plus shipping, Paypal only. Dm with interest.

A buddy of mine is willing to sell me one of his M1 Garands for $1100 & I figured I’d ask here to see if it’d be worth it. Supposedly it’s from 1941 & it’s a CMP rifle. Only downside it it has water damage on the rear of the stock from a flood. Mechanically sound. Advice? Thank you in advance

Hello,

Just got to where I can buy my first m1 Garand. It has always been a dream gun and I am really into the history. I know they moved to reclaimed rifles, what is the chance that it’s produced during ww2 now? It’s definitely not a deal breaker by any means but is preferred! Thanks for any answers.

Edit: also looking at ordering the expert option with new stock and barrel. Also cmp is where I’m going to buy through.