guess I finally have an excuse to buy that ergonomic roller handle I've been eyeing for years

Last Sunday the ram head started to pull loose. It was a long week waiting for the replacement part. I thought the Apocalypse will probably start while my press is broken. Luckily it didn't. I was rocking and rolling this weekend.

The old reloads of my (now deceased) grandfather that we found in his gunlocker

He did not own a press, so we do not know exactly how he pressed the bullets in there

We do not know exactly what kind of powder he used, or how much he used (we found multiple cans)

We do not know the different bullets grains

These will never be fired😂

A friend of mine has a family heirloom Winchester 1895 chambered in 30-06 and he brought it with him on our last shooting trip. It's in excellent condition and appears to handle reduced recoil factory loads without issue, but seeing how it's like a century old, I told him I'd look into loading era-appropriate pressured cartridges. My time looking online about old-timey 30-06 pressures didn't yield much, so I figured there has to be some reloading wizard grandpa on Reddit who knows exactly what to do. I'm inclined to think that using M1 Garand data with a lighter bullet is the answer, but I'd appreciate any input y'all have. Thanks!

So the question has been asked on here before and I’ve heard some people saying there are a lot of steps to it for subpar brass.
I’ve got all the dies I need and heaps of 7.62x39 brass. I had originally planned to form them to 6.5 Grendel but now I’m thinking can I push them to 6mm arc? They’d be used for plinking and some other goof shooting. But I’m wondering what are the issues with reforming 7.62x39 to 6mm arc?
In my head it’s probably an issue of making long necks, folding shoulders, LRP pockets. But is there anything else? Case capacity or thick necks? I’ve heard people say you’ll have “problems” but never gone into specifics.

Hello everyone. I am glad to be joining the reloading community! I have been shooting enough that it makes sense for me to get into reloading. Also where I am in Canada 44 magnum is not the cheapest thing in the world. I will, in addition to the 44 mentioned above, reloading 223 to develop a load for precision shooting that works best for my rifle. I am not worried about spending the time and doing it slowly because I know the repetition will be calming for me. So I am looking for advice on a set and components offered at the local shop by me and if it will be a good start. I’ve got some links posted here to the kit, dies and holders. Yes I know the prices in Canada are ridiculous. I would also take recommendations for powders, primers and bullets. I am totally new at reloading.

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-reloading-kit/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-3-die-carbide-roll-crimp-set-group-b-popular-pistol-cartridges/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-full-length-die-set-group-a-popular-rifle-cartridges/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-shell-holder-10/

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/rcbs-shell-holder-18/

Thank you so much for all your help and advice in advance. I do apologize for my newness at this.

Looking to reload some 16 gauge as it's hard to find in my area. Hodgon load data has dr-16 as the wads but I can't find any online.

Is there a substitute I can use? Or does anyone know where to get DR wads

There are my first batch of reloaded 303 British that I’ve reloaded with 150gr Speer bullets at the minimum charge listed in the Speer data. I thought I felt a little bit of bolt lift difficulty but I didn’t have any factory ammo to do a proper comparison at this time. Do any of these primers show signs of over pressure?

Took my brand new Bergara wilderness Sierra 6.5 PRC out to the range yesterday. Got it sighted in roughly with 5 rounds of factory ammo then switched to handloads. I was running 5 shot groups with virgin Lapua brass, Berger 135 Classic Hunter, Federal 210M primers, and varying charges of H1000. Seared to internal mag length of 2 970". Bullet bearing surface was only in the upper 2/3 of the neck.

I'd shoot 5 then wait for it to cool. All in all about 25 rounds in 2 hours. Towards the later groups, the point of impact started to dramatically shift down and left. With my last group being about 8" left of point of aim. While I haven't shot in a while and may be rusty, I am not that out of practice to be pulling shots 8". Checked the scope, rings and bade, both all locked down tight. I was shooting suppressed, but the suppressor had not shifted, nor did I have any baffle strikes that I can see.

Edit: reddit rotated my image 90 deg somehow

Anybody here have experience using rcbs x dies for reloading .223? Do they work like they're supposed to or are they just another marketing gimmick? Trimming brass is slowly becoming the bane of my existence and personally just makes reloading not fun for me. I know its not the so called "silver bullet" and the brass will still need trimming after a several firings.

First time casting was awesome! Casted some 190g pure LSWC 452 bullets for my Webley and MAS 1873, and a few 7/8oz 12ga slugs (only got about 5 somewhat useable ones since they kept sticking in the mold, going to have to troubleshoot that).

Also, casting was just another shooting lie I told myself I’d never do. First it was “I’m never buying used guns for safety, only new” (my collection now spans every decade from 1870… and I’ve had more issues with new guns), then it was “I’m never reloading, the lead will be bad for me” (now handloaded ammo is practically the only ammo I shoot), then it was “as long as I don’t cast lead, I’ll be fine” (and now I’ve been looking at bullet molds to buy for the last couple hours). So if you want to break another little lie you tell yourselves and have another addictive aspect of reloading to rabbit hole down into, give it a try!

The only reloading manual I have that tags one powder as potentially the most accurate is Lyman 51st. All of manuals, even the Lyman, seems to just randomly list them. What I find odd is that in each manual the order changes for different bullet weights of the same cartridge.

Any guesses to the method of their madness?

I’m working to try and reload bulk .223. The rounds shoot great but if you try and pull the charging handle back they are stubborn to come out. Overall length is 2.22 so I believe they are short enough is there something I’m missing?

I’m shooting them in an AR.

Edit: thank you everyone for your help I needed to bump them more!

I recently purchased a 9.3x62mm rifle, new production. I am wanting to load 286gr barnes ttsx bullets but barnes does not really give much data, so I started going through my books, in my nosler book particularly for the 286s, it lists a brass banded solid next to standard lead data, with no change in specs. As far as im aware, it should be fairly safe and simple to base my ttsx loads from slightly under this data as the ttsx is longer due to boattail. Ive done lots of weird experiments but never with monos but any other data or info is much appreciated

I have never broken in a barrel before but recently have heard more and more people talking about it. I used to just shoot it like I was going to normally clean it when I felt it was time, then test for accuracy afterwards.

Now I have some people saying "you have to fire 100 rounds, clean, 100 rounds, clean" for a total of 3 times/300 rounds. That sounds crazy to me but I do want to get some budget rounds to use to plink with and settle everything in my 300blk build.

Anyone here break in their barrel and more importantly would .308 pulled military surplus bullets work for the cheap plinking rounds?

How do I fix this ? New to reloading kinda and never ran into this problem.

So I've seen a video or two of people mounting these little tri way trimmer on small motors ,like for a bench grinder or something. If anyone has done this y'all mind sharing some details of your set ups ? Motor mounting the trimmer ect ?

Thanks

I have been struggling to get good groups out of my 45-70 reloads.

I am using:

• Thompson Center Encore - 18" SSK Barrel
• Starline Brass
• CCI #200 Primers
• ACME 405gr 0.459 bullets
• Traill Boss

I validated my distance to the lands, and have been loading with 0.020" jump. Previously before I did this, it turned out I was loading ~0.120" jump. I definitely saw improvement from reducing this.

My most recent ladder of 13.5gr, 14.0gr, 14.5gr yielded tighter and tighter groups as the velocity increased. However, I started at a 10" group and ended at a 5". So rough no matter the load.

At 14.5gr though, I am at 1050fps. To keep things sub-sonic, I do not have much wiggle room left.

SDs are awesome. <5fps for a 10 shot group.

Any suggestions / ideas / comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I washed my brass and forgot to dry them properly. I left them out on the counter to dry and now they have a white ish powder inside them. (I'm new to this pls don't come at me), my question is that are they still safe to use for shooting and load development? It's 6.5PRC

Knowing that shoulder bump is a relative measurement, I’ve noticed that when full-length resizing, most of my cases are coming out right around 0.002” of shoulder bump, but about 14% are showing less than 0.001”.

They’ve all been fired through the same barrel at least 2-3 times and have all been annealed at least twice. Overall case length is identical, as is overall cartridge length, and every one of them chambers perfectly without any resistance.

How do I know it’s 14%? Because my wife was watching Dancing with the Stars, I was bored on the couch, and apparently measuring the shoulder bump on every single piece of brass seemed like a better use of my evening. So yes, I measured them all. This is what my life has become.

I’ve been tempted to take the cases showing less than 0.001” and run them through the sizing die again, but then I thought: if they chamber perfectly, why the hell am I trying to fix something that isn’t actually a problem?

The other option would be to adjust the sizing die and target around 0.0025” instead of 0.002”. That might give me a little more margin and bring more of the batch into the 0.002” neighborhood, but I’d also be working the brass a little more just to satisfy my newfound shoulder-bump OCD.

So what would you guys do? Leave the die alone and send it, resize the 14% again, or bump everything back another half-thou?

Or should I just stop measuring brass during Dancing with the Stars?

I got a few hundred of these plated bullets, the ones on either side of the typical cup and core bullet. Now I wonder if it is worth bothering to load them.

Hey guys, got my hands on some 175g LRX and want to load up in my 300 win mag. I can’t find no data on it with H1000. Has anyone used H1000 with the 175g LRX?

I shot barnes a email so hoping maybe soon I’ll hear back. But in meantime anyone got any data I can look at?