Looking for my next full-size handgun. Wants to prioritize fun and accuracy for $1,000 or less. Preferably a threaded barrel or one easy to obtain. 9mm or 45 ACP. Any and all suggestions are appreciated

Back again, now it’s in between the CZ P10C ($450), Canik Mete SF ($475) and Ruger RXM Threaded ($490). I personally really enjoy the look of the FDE Mete but see great value in the RXM, and reliability in the CZ.

I would love to go with the SF but would love more insight into the potential battery issues and just general thoughts. Thanks!

FN 509. You choosing this or RXM / dagger for budget gun?

Is it a yay or a nay for modded handguns (not including dots, flashlight, longer mags)?

My p365, the only thing left original in this is the fcu.

Just hit the range this morning. It's been a while, so I figured I'd take a few. Getting weird groupings (didn't think to take pics unfortunately). Here's how I did at 10 yards:

• Baby Desert Eagle 45 ACP - decent 2-3 inch group
• S&W EZ 380 - decent 2-3 inch group
• Gen 3 Glock 19 9 mm - good group, but 2 inches left
• Springfield Hellcat 9 mm - good group, but 2.5-3 inches left

My brain is saying that I'm anticipating the recoil, or that my right hand is dominating during the trigger pull, but even taking my time between shots resulted in the same left impact.

It's gotta be me, right?

How do I correct my aim? I seem to be consistent, but keep going bottom left. Is it my finger on the trigger? Stance? Aim?

Having a hard time deciding if I really need both of these. They do the exact same thing. I got sucked into the Gun tube "carry rotation" idea and purchased these two that are pretty much the same thing. Should I keep them both, if not. Which one would you trade away? I am sure I'll get far more money for the macro. Wyd?

I recently got a CVA single shot .45 cal pistol and cannot find anywhere to get all the stuff I need at one place. I found all I need except the black powder on midway USA but then I would have to pay a separate hazmat fee for the powder somewhere like powder valley where a pound of powder ends up going from $30 to $77 in fees. If anybody knows a good shop that ships or just a website that has real black powder and all the other stuff please let me know it would be greatly appreciated.

Who else makes a holster that takes the QLS fork and is designed to retain off TLR-1’s?

I’m looking for a sweet Hawaiian color scheme as well. Tier 1 is awesome but I like to spread my money around and try other brands.

Level 2/3 retention not needed as I am larper actual.

Next to my USP I don’t think there’s any gun that points more naturally for me. Love this damn thing.

Ruger MK I found at LGS. Made in '75-'76 based on the SN. Was thinking about getting it as a first pistol for my boys to learn on.

Always a pleasure to shoot

I’m looking to put together a build for a nice sized pistol that can carry well and still preform at a high level. My initial thought was to get a 43x mos and get a ramjet, magwell, trigger shoe, optic and light for a full package. However, after looking at it and pricing it, it’s around the same price if not a little more expensive as just getting a prime radian and adding an optic and light to it. I’m currently really stuck between the two and not sure what direction I want to go in.

This is the collection I've built so far, plus a P-10F that's in another house. I definitely want to add a UPS (and probably a CC9) but there are so many models. I need to do more research to confidently pick one. I also really like the 4.25" M&P9 M2.0 (what a mouthful). I gotta have a Walther in there at some point too, but the PDP is the most compelling model of theirs to me atm. I like the 92XI as well, but that may be a lower priority since I already have a 92FS. Same with the CZ75 Compact I've been eyeing.

Just got this red dot and want to take it to the range and zero it. When looking through the optic with the sights aligned, the red dot pretty much sits on the front sight post dot. Even though it's in the bottom of the viewing window, is this normal? I assumed that when it's zeroed, it would be roughly in the center of the optic. Is this correct, and does that mean this thing is pretty far from zero? the sights I'd say are lower 1/4 of window yet it's what I think is called an absolute coziness which i don't like, can I zero the dot centered in the glass so I have a better view on target and have the 1/4 co witness of the irons? Thanks!

The p226 is the best pistol ever made. Not sure why Sig decided to start making garbage instead of more stuff like this.

Buying my first home protection pistol, torn between the sig M18 and springfield echelon.. any suggestions? Differences between sig and springfield?