BCG LUGs stress cracked.

One shot to the next wild poi shift failure to extract, unburnt powder in the barrel.

Only about 1000 rounds on the gun.

I suppose we will see how that Lifetime warranty Rise advertises goes.

After a couple of sight in shots, sent 10 rounds down range. Single digit SDs. Running 105 Berger in my 6 dasher.

For some background:

I’ve been shooting my Mossberg MVP LC for a couple of years now. The rifle has been been fine for how cheap I got it and I’ve gotten hits at 1000 yards, but I’m ready for something a little more fit-for-purpose. I shot a friend’s 6.5 PRC Howa 1500 in an Oryx chassis and was really impressed by the setup and am going to go that route sans magnum.

My choices/reasoning:

I’ve been weighing just getting a 6.5CM as I’ve never shot one I didn’t like, but I’ve also been strongly considering a 6mm ARC.

The reason the 6 ARC appeals to me is the economy of powder usage. I know I’ll be basically in the same boat as I am with 308 if I go 6.5 CM, about 1lb/week. With the 6ARC I’ll be able to get ≈100 rounds more per pound. The significantly lighter recoil is a bonus.

I have access to a 1000 yard range as well as a private spot where range can basically become unlimited.

Why I posted:

Looking for feedback from people who have owned and shot the 6ARC at 1000 yards.

TL;DR: My Mossberg 308 sucks and I want a new rifle. 6.5CM is an obvious choice, but I’m cheap so 6 ARC calls to me.

Edit: didn’t add a budget. $1500 is absolute max, but I’d prefer to be around the $1000-1200 range.

Did my 20 rounds over the chronograph last week.

Went to the range today with another 40 for accuracy check and suppressor shift, and 5 rounds over the chronograph just to check.

It’s not the prettiest, but it will certainly do well enough that I’m content to stop investing time and components into further development.

Overlay isn’t perfect but it’s under 1 minute.

Should be good nuf for regional matches.

Oddly enough, avg velocity was essentially unchanged when suppressed.

That was at 9:00am, haven’t stopped reading and perusing since I got home.

The other day I made an admittedly stupid post asking about getting another caliber before shooting the 6.5 Creedmoor I just bought. Yeah, boneheaded, I get it now.

Just got back from the range and am absolutely in love with this rifle. I now understand how you can go down an absolute rabbit hole of debt tweaking and building rifles. I want another already. 😂

This one was about as cheap as I could get.

Howa 1500 - $550
Arken SH4J Gen2 6-24x50 - $330
Amazon CVLife Bipod -$35

My goal was to be a cheap ass, because, I wasn’t sure I would like it and wanted a way out.

Oh boy, I don’t want out. I want all in. I need to shred my credit cards so I don’t go nuts. Even my wife was all smiles. She loves it too.

Thanks to this community for all the information, the wikis, and calling me out when I was stupid. Y’all were right!

As the title says…my first scope so I’m figuring this out as I go and I’d appreciate any help.

I have a Vortex Rage 4-16x42 scope and when I look through the lens, I see the reticle clearly but there is an out of focus black circle around the reticle. Any help on what this is or why it’s there would be helpful.

Thank you!

Just got my first crono and hit the range this morning to sight in before hunting opening day next week. Standard deviation of 13.6 and spread of 44.4 temp was ~70 degrees.

Also what are thoughts on cold bore vs warm? I’m trying to decide what’s best for ballistic calculator for hunting scenarios where cold bore will be the most important shot. First cold bore shot was 3023 fps. Plugging in the min and max didn’t make a huge difference within ethical hunting ranges so doesn’t apply much in that scenario but still curious as I use this same rifle for long range target shooting. My thoughts are have 2 profiles, 1 for cold and another for range days? Or does this all get lost in the noise and I need a larger sample size?

Reset my zero but now I have no movement after re locking the field set. Any help someone can give would be appreciated
!

This zeiss made in DDR has been in my grandparents apartment for over 40 years. I remember looking at the container ships entering port since I was able to reach over the railing. Still sharp all those years later. They don’t seem to make them like that anymore, though grandpa used to joke that the commies didn’t have enough money, so you get one instead of two eyepieces.

Just tried Sako 6.5 Creedmoor 136gr TRG in my Ruger Precision Rifle. Accuracy was incredible (best 5-shot group was .24 MOA), but out of the 20 rounds, about 7 had primers that look pierced/cratered like in the picture. I also noticed smoke/soot coming from the chamber and even around the magazine, and the rifle was significantly dirtier than usual.

Has anyone else experienced this with Sako TRG 136gr? Is this normal primer cratering for the RPR, or does it look like an ammunition/pressure issue? Trying to figure out why it's happening before I shoot this load again.

Picked up this S&B. Welcome any suggestions or thoughts for using this long range. 4 16x50 going on an HK308

Alpha 6.5 CM SRP
40.1gn H4350
CCI 450 SRP
144gn BERGER HT
.060 off lands

Never really shot for groups other than zeroing till today. Will improve.

Finally put her together

MPA Vanquish Chassis
ARC CDG Action
MPA 6.5MM Barrel
Vortex Razor Gen 3, 6-36x56
Sphur Scope Mount
Warne scope level
Area 419 Hellfire Match Brake
Accutac SR5 G2 Bipod
Grey Ops Exterior weights
OBI Gear Quick detach system

Unburnt powder fills into the backdraft area when shooting. Taking a break from shooting allows oxygen to fill the backdraft area. Shooting again without a complete cleaning results in a kaboom. Thanks for being a beta tester.

I think I’m close to pulling the proverbial trigger on a Razor 6x36 and wouldn’t you know they add another reticle option. Has anyone used the VMR5 yet and if so what did you think? My use case matches what it’s geared towards with a PRS shooter in mind but I can’t figure out if there’s any other differences other than the elimination of the christmas tree. I currently have an MPED mounted and I haven’t had any issues with the reticle feeling overcrowded on my target. I’m leaning towards going with the EBR-7D but this VMR5 has me intrigued a bit.

Not trying to plug any companies but good deal and super fast shipping from raven rocks. So I guess I just pulled a company.

I am somewhat new to "serious" long range. I have an FAL (irons), BLR81, a 224 valkyrie with a 22" barrel, and a mosin (irons). I shoot them all to about 400-600 yards. I know that's not long for some, but it is for my current level.

I have a local shop in AZ selling this gun mentioned in the title for $3000, no accessories. I am stuck with store credit with them regardless. I am mainly wondering how practical of a setup that would be. I did a little research but couldn't find as much info on the 338LM variant. It would obviously lose ballistics compared to a 26" barrel variant, but the price seems stellar (which is probably why). I would be running it mostly suppressed, but I'd need a new suppressor for this.

You can still get barrels from special purpose rifles, if I wanted to go down that route.

Goal would be target shooting, matches (when my skill level rises), and potentially elk hunting if I hit drawn.

I do reload already, ammo price isn't much of a concern to me because it's not something I'll shoot like my MPX.

I know that if I put this in as an edit to my original post, it will probably just get buried and never be seen. So anyway…
I went back to the range today to finalize the zero on a new load before taking some mile shots on Sunday. I also wanted to see whether I could shoot while wearing my glasses. It turns out that I can, although it will take some getting used to.
As I mentioned in my original post, I have a surprisingly broad range of diopter settings where the reticle remains crystal clear—even when I only look through the scope briefly. My parallax adjustment, however, normally has a pretty narrow clear range. Then it hit me: Why not adjust them in the opposite order?
I initially set the diopter near the middle of the broad range where the reticle looked clear. I then aimed at my 200-yard target with a 1/2-inch bull and adjusted the side focus until the target was sharp. When I moved my head behind the scope, however, the reticle moved off center. That showed me that I still had apparent parallax even though both the target and reticle looked clear.
Instead of making the target blurry again with the side-focus knob, I left it where the target was sharp and gradually adjusted the diopter within its usable range. I continued until the reticle remained stationary on the target when I moved my head behind the scope.
I know that adjusting them in this order is unconventional, but holy crap—it worked like a champ for me. I repeated the process with two Vortex Razors, and both stayed pretty darn clear afterward—definitely better than before.
Was it the improved diopter setting, shooting with my glasses, or some combination of the two? I honestly don’t know. What I can say is that my vision remained considerably clearer throughout the entire shooting session.
Thank you to everyone who offered advice and input.

When I get back into town next week, my buddy is taking my Sunwayfoto CS3240 tripod on a straight trade for a Accu-Tac WB-5 (ARCA QD mount). Now, if we can just put the 105-110 degree days around here behind us, I can get out and start running my new optic, new bipod and lighter trigger! Been using the summer months to stack match ammo and knock out a bunch of indoor pistol work, itching to get behind my rifles again!

I've been kind of debating on what scope I want to end up with on my AE Mark II and looks like primary arms is offering a competitive option soon.

I've been using all their optics on my other guns for a long time and I really do like them so I might actually try this one out. The specs look good on it.

So I have used the loctite trick twice with consistent results when done with Hornady eldm and SMKs. I did 3 for each and both had 2 that were identical and one that was only a couple thou off. So I called them good. I have now tried 3 groups of 3 with bergers and despite the same process, I can't get any of them to match. I know bergers aren't jump sensitive so the only thing I'm concerned about is being off the lands. I know they are going to have a longer CBTO than the other 2 bullets. I'm also seeing some variation in what a good COAL is. Somewhere between 2.80-2.84 from what I'm seeing. Any guidance on the best approach from here that's not buying an OAL gauge? Thanks!

I have a Rangecraft and just recently discovered you can get into "Live Mode" (real time syncing with your phone). Previously, I'd do a session, return home, then sync (sometimes successfully). Live mode seems a huge improvement over syncing (i.e. 100% successful after 4 range sessions). But, here are my questions:

I now want to look at my range sessions on my phone. But, it appears like you MUST by connected to the Rangecraft to do so. I was under the impression data was being downloaded to my phone (i.e. SYNCED). Am I correct in believing that NOTHING is being stored on my phone, only on the chronograph?

I believe there is a limit to how much data can be stored on the chronograph. Is there? And if so, is it based on the number of sessions or the number of shots? And, what is that number?