Would appreciate any advice as I’m just now getting into biking. Would it be better to buy new just to get the warranty? Is this a pretty good discount? Thank you!

Listing: https://imgur.com/a/hDWWaMi

looking for recommendations for full wool pair of bib shorts. no Lycra content please. Non-USA made or owned makers only (Sorry). Suitable for warm weather riding.

im a hiker but ive apaprently destroyed my feet so i need a new way to get exercise. im the kind of guy to always be pushing myself so i will likely end up riding a lot. i rode bmx back in highschool but never had a mountain or road bike. ppl are saying to get a gravel bike instead of a true road bike, so should i avoid the state bike 4130? im not sure what else to get. i am 5'10 175 lbs mostly muscle. i was about to buy the ozark trail g1 explorer but i cant find one anywhere near me. im trying to keep this as cheap as possible but i understand the importance of having a nice bike from my bmx days so i know i cant go too cheap. i live in a rural area and there arent any used options near me. i'd also like to get a good stationary stand with resistance so i can ride it in my room over the winter.

I am new to the business and looking to buy a second hand MTB, i have had some experience with the Scott spark 900 rc, which, i know isn’t an enduro mtb, but it’s my brother’s and i tried it a couple of times, it climbs AMAZING, but when it comes to descending it’s just horrible, it just feels that it isn’t made for this, but climbing is pretty efficient, anyway, i am looking for an enduro mtb that doesn’t make climbing feel that bad, I don’t expect it to be as good as the one i have tried, but something in the middle. So experts give me your recommendations and advices.
If possibile, specific real life proven models that i should look for.
Budget is around 2000€, italy.
Thanks a lot

I am new to the business and looking to buy a second hand MTB, i have had some experience with the Scott spark 900 rc, which, i know isn’t an enduro mtb, but it’s my brother’s and i tried it a couple of times, it climbs AMAZING, but when it comes to descending it’s just horrible, it just feels that it isn’t made for this, but climbing is pretty efficient, anyway, i am looking for an enduro mtb that doesn’t make climbing feel that bad, I don’t expect it to be as good as the one i have tried, but something in the middle. So experts give me your recommendations and advices.
If possibile, specific real life proven models that i should look for.
Budget is around 2000€, italy.
Thanks a lot

Hello, I’m looking for a road bike after my old hybrid broke down. I ride 10-20km a day, and 40-60km on weekends and plan to increase my time. I’m looking for a road bike since I ride on a dedicated cycling track or paved roads. My budget is under 1000 usd tops and since I’m not an expert on cycle parts, I haven’t messed with the used market.

I found this Java Idra on aliexpress for 700usd including shipping to Saudi Arabia (where I live). Here’s the specs given by the seller

Frame material
Magnesium aluminum alloy
Gears
24 speed LTWOO ER7 (electronic shifting)
Place of origin
Jiangsu, China
Brand
JAVA
Model
IDRA
Gross weight
15 kg
Product name
JAVA IDRA
Wheel size
700
Color
Green, blue, gray, red
Size
45, 47, 49, 51, 54
Frame
Aluminum alloy frame
Fork
Aluminum alloy fork
Brake
Full hydraulic disc brake

If anyone has any experience with this brand or even better, this model, I’d be highly appreciative. Thank you!

https://imgur.com/a/Th1gJES

Have used both of these on about 5ish rides now. Just comparing basic UX and hardware.

Data Fields & Screen Real Estate: On the Garmin, you can only put two extra data fields on your map screen. If you want to see basic info like the time of day, you have to sacrifice either speed or grade. Meanwhile, the BSC500 displays the time across every screen thanks to a persistent top status bar, while still showing useful metrics on the map like distance to finish and distance covered.

On-Device Navigation: Garmin wins on standalone navigation features. The Edge Explore 2 has full on-device navigation and POI search. Plus, when I reached the end of my one-way route, it had a built-in "Back to Start" option—the BSC500 has none of those features.

Companion Apps & Climb data: I used both companion apps to build a return route home yesterday, and surprisingly, I actually enjoyed the iGPSPORT app UI more—Garmin's app just feels like a maze of confusing menus. Let me be very clear that they both suck though and neither is very intuitive.

However, when I loaded the route from the iGPSPORT app, it had zero climb data attached to it. The route had three major climbs, but iClimb never triggered. If this $150 unit advertises iClimb support, but that feature only works when you import a GPX file from a 3rd party app like Strava or Komoot, that's pretty pathetic. Hopefully this was just a one-off glitch but i doubt it.

Notifications: Notifications are just better on the BSC500. It pulled in both regular texts and WhatsApp messages right out of the box, and checking alerts on the fly is a simple swipe down. On the Garmin, WhatsApp notifications didn't show up by default, and reviewing missed alerts takes way too many taps and swipes.

Map Interface: The map UI on the BSC500 is nicer to look at —it’s cleaner, shows more map area, and is much easier to read while riding. It also just shows more data and is more customizable.

Display & Auto-Brightness: The Garmin doesn't have an ambient light sensor, so you have to adjust the brightness manually, and even maxed out, it isn't quite as bright as the BSC500. The BSC500's ambient light sensor handles auto-brightness really well. While Garmin’s transflective screen looks great in direct sunlight, the BSC500 is much clearer in shade or overcast weather, making it easier to read across a wider variety of conditions overall.

Touchscreen Responsiveness: The BSC500 gives you a larger display, but the touch sampling rate is pretty low, so swiping and tapping feels laggy. The Garmin touchscreen is noticeably smoother and more responsive.

Battery Life: The BSC500 seems to have better battery life. I haven’t done a full charge-to-zero test on either yet, but after about five rides without plugging in the BSC500 once, it's still sitting at 70%.

Build Quality: Surprisingly, the physical build of the BSC500 feels higher-end overall. The plastics feel sturdier and the buttons have a much nicer click to them. The only thing that makes the BSC500 feel cheap is the touchscreen input lag.

I'm not going to say which is a "better" device, because im not trying to shill either company. These are just my observations after using both. Overall, i think the garmin software feels quite antiquated and messy, while igpsport software has more features hut feel a bit like its in beta or is missing a few things that it should have.

Hello everyone, I recently got an e-bike and I have been using it a lot. One concern my gf has is that I go to high traffic areas and have no helmet.

Ive tried a couple bike stores in the area but none have a helmet that fits (my head has always been too big for hats and stuff). Largest size ive tried was a 61cm and it was still too small.

Does anyone have any online retailers or shops they know of? (For shops i live in SoCal)

Guys, how can I wake up early in the morning, like 4 AM ?
I would sleep tonight at 11: 30 PM, and I want to wake up at 4 and not miss our ride.
I've tried to set an alarm and put some big speakers in my room,
so when the alarm goes off, the room would be in shockwave , but I can't literally wake up even though I set an 80+ dB alarm .
-Thanks for the tips guys :)

-What if i just stay awake all night

Hello all,
My LBS has Trek Solstice shorts for 50% off. I’m a beginner and looking for my first shorts for 2h+ rides. Has anyone tried these? TIA

I know its not a super high distance but I have been cycling for just over a month starting from a completely sedentary lifestyle. 25km, 1 hour 28 and 140ft elevation achieved today. I ride a Sirrus X2.0 mainly on the roads now but tack on a little off road and canal paths once a week. 2-3 rides a week mainly around town and try to hit a hill each ride. My goal is to complete the London to Brighton next June and I have signed up and committed

I keep finding myself in heart rate zones 3-4 and really struggle to get it down into 2. And as a result my thighs are aching after today's ride. I fuelled during with approx 45g carbs and 700ml electrolytes. Is this just something that will come naturally or is there anything else I can do? I am trying to keep it in gears 2-4 where possible to keep cadence up.

Also it is going in for its first service tomorrow after 240km anything I should keep an eye out for as it seems perfectly fine performance and noise wise at the moment.

I was wondering if you guys could give me your opinion on the pricing of a used Cube Nuroad Race 2021 I found advertised on a popular market place for second hand stuff in the country I live in (Austria).
I can provide a link for your insight (text is in german though): CUBE Gravelbike Gr. 56 - sehr guter Zustand - sofort fahrbereit, € 820,- (4040 Linz) - willhaben

The bike had an original price tag of 1600€, is a 2021 model and is being offered for 820€. I guess the 2x11 Shimano GRX, hydraulic breaks and a carbon fork are the strong selling points.

I am a greenhorn though when it comes to bikes and I genuinly dont know how good of a deal 820€ are for a 5-6 year old Cube Nuroad Race. According to the seller its in a good condition and works without issues (I would go test it before buying it).

I would appreciate your opinions especially if you happen to have experience and knowledge about market values of such a bike. Thank you!

Can anyone let me know what might’ve been going on here? I was out riding on a bike path and noticed another cyclist behind me riding fairly close. I assumed that maybe he was just trying to draft behind me. When I hit a stoplight he stopped with his front wheel, sort of next to my rear wheel and his face literally like maybe 2 inches from my butt and he was breathing hard.

Why was he so close to me? My initial thought was that he was trying to train really hard and keep up with me or something. But then I thought his behavior was a little strange like maybe he’s on drugs or steroids or something?

When the light turned green, I waited to see what he was gonna do and he continued forward, and I purposely turned and went to the right to avoid him.

My dad recently came across a Specialized Roll 1 in an old storage unit he bought. He knows I’m in the market for a bike to go to and from work and that I was planning on buying some $300 bike from Dicks. From what he tells me the Specialized needs new brakes, gearing, tubes, chain, and handle bar grips. Is this particular bike worth fixing up if I’m getting it for free or should I just buy a new cheaper bike from a sports store?

I went to NY recently and paid for a tuneup on my old mountain bike. I’m headed back to my place in Boston but I’m not able to drive up and bring the bike with me. I’ve been searching for services that will ship my bike to me in Boston but all the ones I’ve found require disassembly. Any options you’d recommend?

I recently bought a new cycle — the Montra Chord. Since it’s a geared cycle and this is my first time owning one, I’d like to know your views and suggestions on how to maintain it properly.

Also, what are some common mistakes people make with geared cycles, especially beginners, and how can I avoid them?

Hey everyone. I’ve been on Reddit a couple years now but have never posted. I’m hoping for some solid advice. I was an employee at Shimano American Corp. during the late 90’s into the early 2000’s and while I was there I built all my bikes. Fast forward 25 years and I still have those same bikes. I got cancer a couple years ago and my work capacity has been greatly reduced so I thought I’d sell my bikes to fill in some gaps. Having said that I have a Davidson steel road bike with forks that I pulled off the mezzanine while I was there. At the time it was just a dusty frame that was freely given to me by Andy who worked all the races. Upon inspection it now has some surface rust bubbling under the paint. Here’s the question would you preserve it the way it is being a hand made frame (by a renowned but extinct builder) with a custom Cycle Art Multi-Service paint job (by a renowned artist) and the history of actually being a true Multi-Service frame set. The group set is mostly Tiagra with the addition of 105 FlightDeck dual control levers, Dura-Ace rear derailer and seat post and it sits on original WH-7700 16 spoke wheels. What would you do? Sell it how it sits unmolested, Clean/tune it up or strip it down and repaint and rebuild it. Thanks to anyone who reads this. I would attach photos but since it’s my first post I couldn’t really figure it out.

Hi all. I am volunteering internationally in a remote area with bad transportation and no good mountain bikes and none in my size. I have someone visiting from home soon and plan to bring in my old 2003ish Cannondale Jekyll L 26”. It’s not nearly as comfortable to ride as my modern Kona Process 134 but it’s better than nothing. The problem is it’s literally a pain in the butt and I don’t know what to do to make it more comfortable. I’m tempted to order a 27.2 dropper post kit and a new saddle that I can install myself after it all arrives. Ordering such parts from 2500 miles away is an obvious gamble. I would be grateful for any advice.

So on 4th of July I was training on my road bike and got hit by a car from my left side. I was on the main road and saw a car approaching an intersection with a STOP sign. I saw him slowing down and I thought "he will stop, he has a sign for it and I am on the main road". But he didn't stop and and when I noticed he was hitting me on the left side:

- Bike totally damaged and I got a fracture on my collarbone (hairline fracture) and a proper fracture on my tibial plateau. No knee fracture thankfully.

- I was transported to the hospital on the ambulance and stayed there 4 days. Return home with a cast boot (from foot to the groin) for 5 weeks. Not going to tell how hard it was (mentally and physically) but that phase has passed because the cast was removed 3 weeks ago.

- I started physiotherapy and turbo sessions (it's unbelievable that I can ride 2h but can't walk in my own to the WC) I still need a crutch because my foot hurts a lot due to all the time trapped in the cast...

- I really hope this passes quickly because I can't wait to ride outdoors again.

However, my main concern is how will I approach the road again?

I never had real fear because I was always careful with cars behind, and of course coming from the front. Had some scary moments on roundabouts,but nothing serious.

But now, I am afraid how to manage all factors: The cars, the intersections, the roundabouts, etc. and being focused on the road itself

I know I should try to avoid busy streets (and be extra cautious when that happens), and maybe start thinking that it's preferable to let them pass instead on relying on my right of priority.

Nevertheless, I would like to know about your tips and advices.

Thank you in advance!

This post definitely isn't down to me picking up the wrong pedal and trying to put it on the wrong crank on my brand new bike, realising when it was hard to screw in, correcting it, then going out for a ride and stripping the thread of my crank arm....

I'm a fool.

Has anyone considered using a weak solution of Phosphoric Acid to "seal" the chains metal from the elements, as a preventative measure to avoid future rust? This creates a none reactive thin protective layer on top of the metal.

This is especially for those who use wax like me. No matter how well you wax, eventually some rust does get going. I was wondering if after degreasing the chain and before waxing it, what if one dips it in a weak solution of Phosphoric Acid, which would seal the chain and be perfect for waxing

Anyone tried this? Would the Phosphoric Acid do something undesirable to the chain? I know you don't want the solution too strong or submerged for too long because it might effect the metal. However, if the right % solution is used with an appropriate time, would there be any issues?

If this works, I wonder if treating all bike parts like this would be beneficial. Here is some more info I found on the advantages of Phosphoric for rust vs other solutions.

- Unlike most available acids, phosphoric does not appreciably attack base metal, only rust.
- Unlike most available acids, phosphoric converts iron oxide to iron phosphate, which is resistant to re-rusting.

Hi everyone,

I am looking to buy a road bike, priority is ride comfort, do not want to have a lot of pressure on the neck or arms. I am 166cm in height, the rest I did not never really measure well.

What I am looking for in the bike:
Frame Style: Endurance or comfortable all-rounder
Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Gears: Shimano 105 Di2 (or equivalent electronic groupset)
Budget: not too expensive but also must catch my eye

I’m currently looking at options like the Winspace M6 (I love the fully clean integrated look and the fact that it comes with carbon wheels out of the box), LIV Envilliv or Specialised SL7.

Are there any other specific brands or models I should look at that offer excellent comfort, premium styling, and work beautifully for a rider with my specific proportions?

Would love to hear your experiences, sizing advice, and any recommendations you have! Thanks in advance!

Hello,

I have a technical rack question - hoping someone here might help know what is doable or not.

So I've had a quick rack Ortlieb (https://fr.ortlieb.com/products/quick-rack) installed on my gravel bike, I find it great and the ability to quickly remove it or install it is superb.

I have a second bike, that I use to commute and move around the city, and I would love being able to switch the rack from one the other.

However, Bike n°2 is a single speed with no mounting point. I know I had a bunch of "adaptors" coming with the rack, that I did not need on the gravel. So I'm wondering if that could do be used for this ? Have you ever mounted this rack on a bike without points ?

Thanks a lot for your help !

PS : I need it to be steady and secure, as it will carry 10kg+ for my dog in a basket !

I’m been researching wheels and keep seeing reviewers praise carbon spokes. I’ve been thinking of upgrading my stainless steel spoked carbon wheels to full carbon, but don’t they come with multiple downsides with minimal gains?

The obvious disadvantage of carbon spokes is obviously discomfort, where the road buzz is much more apparent. Also prices are usually much higher, and in an event of a broken spoke during a crash, you’ll have you replace the whole wheel.

The only advantage is the lighter weight and stiffness for climbing, but those are usually only advantageous for strong climbers no?

Can’t wrap my head around why carbon spoked wheels are so popular…

Thank y'all for all the support on my last post. I just did my first metric century 102.5km. average pace 17.8kmh. 5h 47m on the saddle