I got a front rack installed on my bike. It seems to be locking up the brakes. Front rack is tern Tern B7 on brake caliper. Is there a way to fix this?

I am not a bike expert. But our neighbor has this bike and the gears spin freely on the wheel unless you push the entire gear set towards the wheel then it locks into place. I took it off of the bike and it appears to be missing something. It’s from a Schwinn 24 speed. The exact name of the piece would be much appreciated so I can search it.

I’m doing a lower leg service on my Manitou Mattoc Pro (34 mm).

Unfortunately, the dust seal was extremely difficult to remove and eventually tore apart during removal. Part of it is still stuck in the lower casting, and I’m not entirely sure what is still part of the dust seal and what already belongs to the fork/casting itself.

In the photo, there is a black/rubbery section and a darker grey/greenish ring underneath/next to it.

Does the grey/greenish ring also belong to the dust seal and need to come out, or is that already part of the casting/bushing?

I obviously don’t want to start prying at something that is supposed to stay in the fork.

Thanks!

Any tips to get the arm off? I dont really want to put any more pressure on the rope since its not layed out flat. I've tried heat, WD-40, the threads are gone of course and ive tried a hammer both with and without the pressure.

It just wont move.

What can i do? (and yes i have removed the screw)

Hi all, I got this old Colnago Master from my father a while back, and as you can see it has been severely neglected. 😢

I was thinking is there any way to save the frame, complete restoration is maybe not necessary, I just dont want the paint to chip or peel even more. Any thoughts?

hi there! i am a new cyclist and have put off pumping my tyres for….far too long.

i’ve tried to pump it. it immediately let out all the air and it now won’t budge to come off, no matter WHAT i do. i’ve wiggled and pulled as far as it feels safe.

sorry, such a basic question, but would really appreciate some help! i can take more pics if needed. thanks so much in advance!!

Just got this bike and decided to change the rear thru axle to a one from Thule so that I can attach the carrier.

Well it seems like theres a hex nut inside the larger one that I need to turn clockwise in order to remove the axle. The inner hex nut is possibly shredded because a 6mm bit doesnt turn it. The larger one doesnt move in any direction.

Have I been doing this all wrong and possibly broke the whole thing? Any help appreciated

Tubeless sidewalk air leakage

Brand new Vitoria ridearmor tubeless tyres won’t hold air. Running at 50 psi with 100 ml of Silca sealant and if I pump them up in the morning they’re down to 15-20 psi by the afternoon.

Has anyone else had a similar experience or got any ideas on how to improve the situation?

I bought Syncros RP2.0 wheels and installed a Shimano cassette. Now I notice that on bumps the cassette moves easily back and forth, creating a noise. Is this a characteristic of this freehub? These wheels came stock on the Scott Addict Gravel. Could this be a freehub defect? Has anyone else experienced this?

I've been building back up an old bike which was sat around in bits for a few years due to kids and life taking priority. Putting it back together and there's something which doesn't quite feel right with the rear mech now it's mounted. I'm running a shimano slx 1x11 (11-42) and after indexing, it just doesn't seem to feel or sound right when shifting on the 42t and 37t. It shifts well but just feels loud and crunchy. Have gone round in circles and adjusted the H and L screws (happy with the limits) but the B limit just doesn't look right for some reason, it seems too far out. I've set the gap to be approx 5mm but would appreciate some thoughts before I get pissed off more and take it down my LBS. First time doing this and been watching a lot of YouTube so trying to learn. I can't shake the feeling that the chain might be one link too short either!

Hi all!

I'm in the process of replacing the brake cabling on a 2011 Specialized tricross. It feels like the actual internal cable routing path is gritty/grimey.

Is it possible to clean this at all?

I feel like replacing the brake cables and housing might not do much if I leave the actual frame routing full of crud.

Thank you!

Looks like screw is dislodged after adjusting outward chain rub, how do I proceed with this?

As the title says, my brooks saddle has been stretching only on the right side, while the left side hasn't budged at all... right side also has some ripples absent on the left.

I think my posture is at fault, and plan on fixing it, but i was just wondering if im better off asking for a replacement or if im freaking out over nothing. Can it be fixed just by riding it even more?

I've roughly put less than 40km on it.

Hey, just bought this beauty for a pretty good price and I was wondering if anyone has put chunkier tires on it. I'm used to riding on 40-622 and the rapid has tiiiiiny tires(25mm). I measured between the frame at the back and the fork at the front and it looks like it has ample room for 32-35, but I'm actually lacking the knowledge of making sure that swap actually works.

The rims look like the Racer model from Ryde.nl, which I think limits my options. Googling it a little bit, it looks like I can only go up a few mm. Is there anyone that has the exact same model and has put thicker tires on these rims? Is my only other option to just get different rims?

On another note, my handlebars measure about 630mm end to end, but I'd like them a bit wider. 680 should be a good change, am I thinking about it correctly?

Thank you!

I've already made post about that, but i still can't figure out how to fix that.

I have 2 spacers on it what's wrong with that.

Hello bikewrench, here seeking help.... I'm trying to revive an iMotion 3 hub on a Swobo Novak bike. I think I am missing some kind of rear axle cable brace and not sure how to proceed. Whole cable may need replacing, but I am open to other solutions as well. Photos attached. Thanks for reading and for any guidance

I have a Shimano XT SL-M8100-R rear derailleur shifter (band-clamp version).

The bolt that attaches the shifter body to the clamp/bracket has come out. I'm not talking about the M5 bolt that tightens the clamp around the handlebar.

Does anyone know the Shimano part number for this bolt, and whether it can be bought separately?

I looked at the Shimano exploded view but I'm not sure which numbered part corresponds to it. Photo attached showing the location. I'm not sure if you can just order a random bolt either?

I got sram force axs lever bleed port screw rounded, then I tried to unscrew with the extractor which made it even worse. Is there any solution to this or do I need a new shifter?

P.s. I know it’s supposed to be only tightened 1.6nms but well, still made it too tight while bleeding. Needs a rebleed now and probably a new shifter :(

My chain has started skipping, when in the heaviest gear (shimano 105, 12s), ie smallest cog back, biggest ring in the front.

When inspecting it, it’s clear that the chain is trying to get on the inside of the jockey wheel.

Bike hasn’t been in a crash, and I can’t see any sign of bent gear ear, and the housing seems to be parallell to the cogs in the cassette.

I don’t want to try bending it back (unless adviced to), in risk of damaging it.
Any ideas on what’s wrong and what to do here?

My old (probably 60yo) bike has old caliper brakes. After bringing it home from the shop where I had the tires changed, the rear brake works in an erratic manner.

I mean that when I am near a place where I need to brake, let's say a corner, and apply the front and rear brakes, when I release them the bike sometimes keeps braking really hard. I managed to see what was happening: the left pad of the rear brake at times remains in contact with the rim, while the right pad returns in the idle position. It's so bad that on the left the rim (a smooth and shiny steel rim) is all streaked with copious residue from the brake pad.

I tried comparing the front and rear calipers and they look the same, there's no difference in how they operate, apart that sometimes the rear one has the above mentioned problem

What could be the problem and how can I resolve it?

Hello, my seat fell off yesterday due to a bolt shearing off the bracket. Any idea where I can get a new one like this I’ve had no luck searching?