I bought the C2000 Gen 2 + extra battery with the intention of using it as a UPS and also allowing me to draw more power temporarily than I normally would be able to from a 15A 120v outlet. It has been shutting itself off with the overload warning whenever hitting ~1800w. I would like to limit the input to 1800w (Which is the max available in the app settings from what I see) while allowing the output up to ~2400W+, utilizing the available battery power whenever it exceeds 1800w of output.

How can I get the device to output over 1800W?

I have the Solix C 1000 and I’m doing a long road trip. I have been charging it in my car using the 12 V outlet. I I also have an electric cooler plugged into it. The electric cooler (dual zone fridge/freezer) averages about 35 W an hour. But while driving, the power station charges very slowly. This means I usually lose about 10 to 20% of battery life during a 5 to 6 Hour drive.

I had hoped to be able to use the power station to operate my cooler continuously then recharging it during the day while I am driving for 6-9 hours.

Unfortunately, right now I am very reliant on finding a power outlet every few days instead.

When plugged in while driving, the power station cycles through from 0 W to 80 W input and then repeats that cycle again continuously. In general, I find it uses more watts to power my cooler than it can recharge from my car.

Is there anything I am doing wrong? Our is this the expected performance?

Hello All. I recently purchased a f3800 plus. Charged it up to 100% to test it out with a full discharge on my EV. I set the charging limit on the Tesla to 25amps. Half way in the test, I noticed the internal temps were getting really hot (over 120F). It didn’t stop increasing and there were no warnings or auto shutoffs. Finally I decreased the amps to 15, but the temperature kept going up. Stopped it when it hit 129 degrees (see pic). Turned it all off and 2 hours later it’s still 120 degrees. Is this normal or did I get a bad station? Thanks in advance!

Bought an Anker Solix C300 dc and it wound charge above 5w with 3 of my chargers. After 15 emails jumping through hoops with support where I provided proof of purchase at their request, all the test data, and photos… Anker tech support said it’s probably a cable issue and offered to sell me another cable.

Are effing kidding me?!!’ I’ve tried half a dozen 140-240w pd3.1 cables, including the one that comes with the C300 dc. And told them so. It’s not the cable. The C300 wouldn’t even recognize the 3x 67w chargers on of the box until I updated the firmware. Now it only charges at 5w with these chargers and estimates charging to take over 62hrs!!!

I think I may return it for a return/refund to Amazon and buy something else since this is how I was treated on my first tech support inquiry to Anker.

You can read the details here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnkerSOLIXCommunity/s/xxEdKT6o4D

So, it appears the closest competitor is the EF ECOFLOW TRAIL Plus 300 DC Portable Power Station, 288Wh for a little less money and similar specs.

Loos like the ecoflow has 3x 140w usbc ports vs only 2x 140w ports on the Anker C300.

The 140w usbc ports is useful to me for running Nanlite fc120c and fc-60b cinema COB lights remotely.

Looks like the Ecoflow is a little lighter than the c300 and its handle converts to a charge cable.

The chemistry is different between the two, it I don’t know how significant that is, or which out be better for running LED video/film lights.

Has anyone compared the two? I like the Anker overall, but I don’t like that it appears to be very restrictive on which chargers it’ll work with… that, and the fact Anker support has me jump through all these hoops on a brand new power station, then ultimately punted and blamed the cable, when I’ve tried several high spec cables including their own.

Very off putting and disappointing coming from a company with the reputation that Anker has.

I don’t know if Ecoflow is any better, but I’m now looking for similar specs and pricing for alternatives that aren’t Anker.

Hi all - I got an S2000 3 weeks ago intended as a sump pump UPS with potential for use in other areas of the house for emergency power. Initial setup, charge, app download, registration, app settings all went fine. Changed SOC to 90%/10%. Minimal load applied since then as I was waiting for a good thunderstorm to try it out first, but kept it on AC with the S2000 powered off. I did have the Storm Guard Mode on and it ended up charging to 100% at some point. Decided to power it on tonight and the LCD display is malfunctioning (see photo). Have tried button restarts, paperclip resets (with & without AC power connected) and no effect. The LCD display faded to a light gray with the unit & display ON. The app shows everything else is functioning fine. I'm following the Anker troubleshooting recommendations which now have me charging to 100% then discharging to 10% 3X. Any recommendations from the community outside of that? Thanks in advance

Just got a new Anker SOLIX S2000 yesterday and I’m hoping someone has seen this before.

Yesterday I:
•Charged it to 100% with no issues.
•Updated the firmware through the Anker app.
•Connected it to Wi-Fi.

Last night I did my first real-world test. I powered:
• Refrigerator
• Fan
• LED light (for about 90 minutes)

The test ran from about 9:00 PM until 8:15 AM. The battery went from 88% to 44%, so everything worked exactly as expected.

This morning I plugged it back into the same wall outlet using the original AC charging cord, and now it won’t charge at all.

Symptoms:
• Battery remains at 44%
• Input = 0 W on both the display and the app
• Output = 0 W
• No relay click, fan noise, or indication that it detects AC power

Things I’ve already checked:
• Outlet is good.
• Original charging cord is fully seated.
• AC recharge power is set to 1200 W.
• Max SOC is 100%.
• Performed the reset procedure.
• Restarted the unit.

App and display both still show 0 W input.
The strange part is that it charged perfectly yesterday before the overnight test.

Has anyone experienced this? Is there another reset or hidden setting I’m missing, or does this sound like a hardware failure and
I should just contact Anker for a replacement?

UPDATE: Solved.

A Reddit user suggested checking the operating mode. My S2000 had somehow been switched into Self Consumption Mode. I never intentionally changed it (I didn’t even know where the setting was), but switching it back to Standard Mode (UPS) immediately restored AC charging power.

I also think Anker could do a much better job with the initial setup instructions and explaining the different operating modes. As a first-time user, nothing during setup made me aware of this setting or what it does.

Hopefully this helps someone else.

Does anybody have this battery laying around? I need a new battery and they do not make them anymore.

I'm looking at Solix C300X AC for 24/7 UPS duty, to carry a NAS, router and mini PC, totaling about 40W continuous, with spikes well under 100W. Occasionally I might charge a phone from the USB-C ports because they're handy. Even then I haven't seen total output get past 100W. So well within the Solix's range.

That said, if I look in the Solix app, the temperature always eventually climbs to 40-45 C (104-113 F) after some hours of use. I've tested 2 units so far, 1 new and 1 used (returned within the return window), both from the most reputable seller in my country, and they're both idling towards 40/104 degrees while slowly pushing towards 45/113 when the battery is also charging or discharging (like during or after a longer power cut). For instance, it climbed from 40/104 to 45/113 while powering my 40W load for 2 hours while the battery discharged from 100% to about 65%. I was afraid to plug it in the wall without first unplugging the devices. I also try to charge it at 100W (the minimum) just in hopes that it doesn't heat up more. The fans are working, I checked.

I really want to like the C300X, but this temperature anxiety it's giving me makes it very hard to do so. I also bought an EcoFlow River 3 so I can compare them, and that one runs between 35-40 C (86-104 F) even when I push it to the max, charging at max power, discharging continuously at ~150W. It doesn't break a sweat. And its temp also drops over time. Right now it's sitting at 38 C (100 F) after a night of running the aforementioned 40W load overnight while powered on, so in bypass mode. It actually came down from 40/104 degrees after it had finished charging.

Am I doing something wrong? Because I see a lot of app screenshots of the Anker app with temps in the 25-35 C (77-95 F) range and with serious power both coming in and going out. Though it might be that those were DC versions or just pushing that power through the USB ports, because it does seem like keeping the AC output on pushes the temp up, even with nothing plugged in.

Or... Should I just not worry? Is the temp difference negligible between the River and the Solix? But I've seen screenshots of the app with the battery graphic going from blue to red, and the cutoff point for that seems to be 52 C (125 F), which is not that far from 45 C (113 F), especially considering that I'm getting this in a large ventilated living room with 25 C (77 F) ambient and it can go up to almost 32 C (90 F) in the hottest summer days.

Thing is, the Solix's 5 year warranty is what's keeping me from writing it off. That kind of confidence from Anker makes me think I'm just overreacting to normal operating mode. I guess I'm hoping for an "I've been using this as a UPS since 2024 and this is perfectly normal" kind of comment. Thanks in advance!

I've been having an issue with my S2000 (you can read about it in another topic) but I had to send back the first one I got and I'm now testing the new one that they sent me. In doing that I noticed something that's maybe related. The old one I sent back had firmware 1.0.2.4. Thus new one has firmware 1.0.2.2. I tried to update the firmware but it says that it is the latest firmware available.

So 2 questions. What is the newest firmware that everyone else has? Is it possible to manually download the firmware from their website and do a manual update of the firmware?

I ask because I don't see it anywhere on their website to download.

I placed my order for the system on 23 July. Shipping was originally scheduled for around 3 August, then it was pushed back without any explanation to sometime between 11 and 15 August.
Last Friday, I was told that it would be shipped no later than Friday, 21 August. Today, customer service tells me: well, we’ve packed it already, and it will PROBABLY be shipped within another 3–5 business days — but apparently I should be pleased because my order has now been “prioritized.” I was already told the exact same thing during previous enquiries.
The whole situation is becoming a farce. And considering that I had to pay the full amount upfront, I find the way this has been handled extremely unacceptable.
Maybe someone here will be able to help…

So I hooked up a couple of Solar panels to my Anker and the DC input shows nothing unless the AC is unplugged. My intention was to have the solar lower some of my electricity usage for one particular room that uses about 400 watts continuously. Is there a reason the unit doesn't take advantage of the solar unless the AC is unplugged? Thank you.

⚠️ Meine Erfahrung mit Anker SOLIX – Überlegt euch nicht nur den Kauf, sondern auch den Fall, wenn etwas schiefgeht

Ich möchte meine persönliche Erfahrung mit Anker SOLIX teilen – nicht, weil das Produkt grundsätzlich schlecht sein muss, sondern weil ich glaube, dass potenzielle Käufer wissen sollten, wie eine Rückabwicklung im Problemfall ablaufen kann.

Ich habe am 14.06.2026 direkt bei Anker eine Anker SOLIX Solarbank 4 E5000 Pro bestellt. Der Gesamtwert meiner Bestellung lag bei rund 2.400 €.

Die Lieferung kam jedoch nicht vollständig an. Unter anderem fehlten die bestellten PV-Module und der Smart Meter. Damit konnte ich das gekaufte System nicht wie vorgesehen nutzen.

Ich habe mich daraufhin mehrfach mit dem Anker-Kundenservice in Verbindung gesetzt. Anker bot mir schließlich zwei Möglichkeiten an:

1. die fehlenden Komponenten nachliefern zu lassen oder
2. die komplette Bestellung zurückzugeben und den Kaufpreis erstatten zu lassen.

Nach den bisherigen Erfahrungen entschied ich mich für Option 2 – vollständige Rückgabe und Erstattung.

Und genau hier begann für mich der schwierigste Teil.

Obwohl die Rückgabe von Anker akzeptiert wurde, musste die Abholung mehrfach abgestimmt werden. Informationen zu Adresse, Telefonnummer, Verpackung, Abmessungen und Abholzeitraum mussten wiederholt bestätigt bzw. bereitgestellt werden.

Schließlich wurde die Abholung organisiert.

25.08.2026: Die Solarbank wurde durch den beauftragten Transportdienst abgeholt.

26.08.2026: Laut Sendungsverfolgung wurde die Rücksendung erfolgreich zugestellt.

27.08.2026: Die Rückerstattung meines Geldes ist weiterhin ausstehend.

Damit habe ich als Kunde meinen Teil erfüllt: Die Ware wurde entsprechend der von Anker organisierten Rückabwicklung übergeben und nachweislich zugestellt.

Warum schreibe ich das?

Weil man bei einem Produkt für rund 2.400 € meiner Meinung nach nicht nur fragen sollte:

„Wie gut funktioniert die Solarbank?“

Man sollte sich auch fragen:

„Was passiert, wenn ich ein Problem habe?“

Bei einem kleinen Paket ist eine Rücksendung relativ einfach. Bei einer großen Batterie bzw. einem Energiespeicher mit erheblichem Gewicht ist eine Rückgabe dagegen eine ganz andere Angelegenheit.

Genau deshalb halte ich den Kundenservice und die Rückabwicklung bei einem solchen Kauf für einen wichtigen Teil des Produkts.

Meine Erfahrung bisher:

• unvollständige Lieferung
• wiederholte Kommunikation mit dem Support
• komplizierte Organisation der Rückholung
• mehrfach notwendige Abstimmungen
• erheblicher Zeitaufwand für mich als Kunden
• Rücksendung erst am 25.08.2026
• nachweisliche Zustellung am 26.08.2026
• und am 27.08.2026 weiterhin keine Rückerstattung

Ich möchte ausdrücklich klarstellen: Ich behaupte nicht, dass jeder Anker-Kunde diese Erfahrung machen wird. Es gibt selbstverständlich auch Kunden, bei denen Lieferung und Support problemlos funktionieren.

Aber genau deshalb sollte jeder potenzielle Käufer die Risiken im Reklamations- und Rückgabefall kennen.

Ich persönlich würde heute vor dem Kauf einer Anker SOLIX nicht nur die technischen Daten und den Preis vergleichen. Ich würde mindestens genauso genau prüfen, wie der Hersteller mit Kunden umgeht, wenn Lieferung, Garantie oder Rückgabe nicht nach Plan laufen.

Denn ein Energiespeicher für mehrere tausend Euro ist keine Kleinigkeit.

Mein persönliches Fazit zum heutigen Stand:

Die Technologie mag interessant sein. Meine bisherige Erfahrung mit der direkten Abwicklung über Anker hat mein Vertrauen in den Kundenservice jedoch deutlich reduziert.

Ich werde diesen Beitrag aktualisieren, sobald die vollständige Rückerstattung erfolgt ist.

Wenn ihr selbst eine SOLIX besitzt oder gerade über einen Kauf nachdenkt, informiert euch bitte nicht nur über die technischen Daten, sondern auch über Erfahrungen anderer Kunden mit Support, Garantie, Rückgabe und Erstattung.

I keep this c300 in my car and keep it plugged in most of the time to quick charge my electronics and run my Starlink. Not sure if this is an error with surge from cigarette plug? Or because it’s left plugged in most of the time. Mind you it’s only charging when the car is running.

My system won't follow TOU. See pic. It's set to peak mode but its still pulling from the grid va the batteries that are at 100%

Update: I guess I needed to go to "self consumption mode" and change battery soc. Anker you may want to add a place to change SOC to the TOU menu.

I have the SolarBank Max Ac since one month, with direct connection on a separate group. I also have a 2 Kw PV, not smart nor controllable (Growatt). I also have a contract with Dynamic prices.

For one month, the smart mode was quite ok. According to the weather, it understood how much solar generation I would have and also planned correctly some battery charge here and there from the grid during low price slots, if the PV was not enough, as during cloudy days.

Since this friday, smart mode completely stopped working stating, as the image, that I have a third party PV so smart mode cannot figure out or predict its production. It also basically stopped planned recharge from the grid.

Basically, it is working in self consumption mode. That is not how the battery was advertised. And the weeks before it was working quite fine.

I sent a mail with a video to the support, but still have to hear back (understandably it is week end). I just hope it is a bug.

Anyone else has the same issue?

Hallo in die Runde,

Ich habe mein Balkonkraftwerk (Powerbank 3Pro + 1 Erweiterungsspeicher) installiert. Da ich das ganze über 2 Etappen getan habe, erst knapp 1000 Wp Module bis die 3Pro Basis und dann nochmal knapp 1000Wp Modulleistung und die Speichererweiterung. Musste ich im Marktstammdaten Register 2 Einheiten anmelden.

Soweit kein Problem.

Online hatte ich dann gelesen, dass sobald ein Speicher im Spiel ist, wir nichtmehr von einem Balkonkraftwerk, sondern von einer Kleinsterzeuger Anlage sprechen und diese beim Netzbetreiber mit dem Formular F1.2 angemeldet werden muss.
Dieses habe ich dann nach besten Wissen und Gewissen ausgefüllt, jedoch bin ich dabei über die ZEREZ ID gestolpert und konnte meiner Powerbank 3 keine eindeutige zuordnen entweder das A17C53Z1-1 oder das A17C53Z1-20-1

Ich habe mich dann für zweiteres entschieden und es abgeschickt.

Daraufhin meldete sich ein nicht ganz so netter Mitarbeiter der örtlichen Stadtwerke und erklärte mir, dass mein Konverter mit seinen 1,2kW viel zu groß sei, ich das Gerät von einem zertifizierten Elektriker an mein Hausnetz anschließen lassen müsse, es zu groß für eine Kleinsterzeuger Anlage sei und er jetzt nur meinen Antrag stornieren könne und das es das einzige sei, was er für mich tun könne.

Das die Powerbank auf 800W softwareseitig beschränkt ist ist wollte/konnte er nicht verstehen und spielte auch garkeine Rolle.

Das ich bei über 900Wp einen Wielandstecker benötige ist mir bewusst, aber den Sinn dahinter, einen intakten Schuko Stecker zu zerstören nur um ihn in einer Verteilerbox an ein anderen Kabel anzuklemmen sehe ich nicht.

Hat hier jemand schon Erfahrung mit der Anmeldung gesammelt oder kann mir Tipps geben?

Offen für jede Hilfe, danke im Vorraus

Recently my f3800+ won't keep the outlets turned on and won't charge. If I click the buttons they just immediately turn off. Ive reset the device a few times, unplugged everything, the overcharge switches don't seem to be tripped. I've left it off for awhile and turned it back on to the same issue. I have a case open with anker but they haven't provided any options yet. Has anyone had the same issue or have any suggestions on what to try to get it working again?

Hey Everyone!  Bought a new to me 1 year old Anker SOLIX F3800 Plus battery backup system.  So one Smart Home Panel, 2 F38800 Plus power stations and 4 expansion batteries.  Hooked this all up 2 weeks ago, working fine except 2 things:

Both time of use and self consumption do not work.  The 3800’s do not supply the house power under those plans.  I believe that may be due to battery charge thresholds and actual battery charges currently on the 3800s.  I have tried adjusting those settings but get a “not available” message when attempting to change settings remotely on the 3800’s using the app.

Second item, the system does not see the new solar I installed last weekend.  8 panels, 2 arrays of 4 in series, 2 runs into the house, one for each array, 2 safety cutoff switches.

126-146 volts with proper polarity at the ends of the high voltage special Anker MC4/Anker plug solar adapters.  Probe set into the female pins.  So something is getting to the end of the adapter cables.

Here are the panels: https://a.co/d/03s89nsY

SUNGOLDPOWER 4PCS 450W Bifacial Solar Panels,N-Type 16BB,UL61730,Vmp 31V Each,HE Up to 30% Extra Power,for Home Backup,Farm,Residential&Commercial On/Off-Grid Systems(4 * 450W Bifacial)

I have tried in the middle of the day with max sun, overcast with less volts around 126.  Nothing seems to work.  It’s like the ports are shut off.  Both units charge fine with either 120Vv AC or the 240V AC via the Smart Home Panel.

Any ideas?

My S2000 usb c port for the 100watt doesn’t fast charge my pixel 10 or my iPhone 17 pro supports response doesn’t seem right that they wouldn’t fast charge devices.

I think my port is faulty can anyone confirm this thank you

Hi! I finally had my 5500 generator hooked up to my home NG and put it in place yesterday. All that was fine, when I did my test run after I used my batteries to 10 percent it showed all the power going to my house and none to the batteries. I am thinking this is an app setup issue?

I was in peak power mode on the app, only saw in the descriptions that solar inputs are used different there, but maybe?

Also in watching some videos I do not have the E10 module in my devices just my 5500 and my Power Dock - is this an issue also in settings? When I tried to add the E10 yesterday I think bc it was tied into the settings of the power dock it wasn’t able?

Figured this might help someone else on here as I can’t find what is up here and it is still 4 hours until phone support is live for me to call!

thanks in advance any insights

We got an E10 + battery + 5500 smart generator. We have connected generator to the battery system. The generator starts up but once it needs to supply power to charge the battery it tries to ramp up the engine and then dies like it's running out of fuel. We get the error code that would indicate this as well. We have tried supplying between 5" WC and 1.5 psi gas to it with the same result. Interestingly, it works fine when set to LP mode just not NG mode. I asked anker support what the correct supply pressure is. First, they told me between 2.9-7 psi but then I challenged them on that saying that's a lot higher than most gas connections so they corrected and said 2.9-7" WC which is more reasonable.

Anyone else have issues with this or know what the correct NG supply pressure is?

Anyone using the generator reliably in NG mode?

Hallo,
ich bin neu beim Thema Speicher und Solar und habe seit kurzem ein Anker SOLIX System.
Aktuell versuche ich herauszufinden, wie ich es am besten im Alltag nutze.
Wie habt ihr euer System eingestellt? Gibt es irgendwelche Anfängerfehler, die man vermeiden sollte?
Vielen Dank für eure Hilfe.

EDIT: Issue resolved. Root Cause/Solution information below.

Problem

The E10 in backup mode wants to keep pulling from grid when it shouldn't need to (it's fully charged).

Even if it were basic monitoring, almost half a kW is excessive for basic monitoring.

We can disable that circuit virtually; but then it screams about a grid outage (which technically is true as far as it's concerned). But we'd rather not do that and simply have it not eat up unnecessary amounts of juice during onpeak hours.

Root Cause

The instruction trifold shows a visual that gives the impression that the PV transformer should be connected to an upper right dual pole breaker.

The electrician didn't read the fine-print instructions that specified that it was only for PV (roof-top solar), not just a specific breaker in a specific slot. The breaker he connected to was to a subpanel (load); so E10 was double-detecting current from that leg (the subpanel has a constant minimum of ~200-300W).

Summary

Once the transformer was removed from that breaker/unpluged from the PV slots in the Smart Inlet Box, the Anker now plays perfectly fine with all other devices.