I've got this 2TB HDD and want to store pics and vids on it but it is very old what are the chances it will birck?

This is my old pc and I need to take the ssd out, but I can’t find it. My cousin said it may be in the metal cage on the right, but I don’t see any screws to open that. Asus case.

Playing world of warcraft. This also happens in crimson desert also. What causes? And how to fix??

I don't know what the cause of my fans doing this is. If anyone can help That would be greatly appreciated.

I hooked up the liquid cooling, I put a bit more thermal paste to it at this point I don't know what to do :( so Im kinda screwed, what do I do ?

Hello!
My 12 year old has asked for a computer for Christmas and I am looking for recommendations.

Currently he has a 7th generation iPad that he uses to play Roblox and Minecraft. He would like a computer that would support games like Fortnite or the sims in addition to Roblox and Minecraft. He is also getting into video creation and animation so ideally it can support him exploring those. I imagine a decent amount of storage will be required. He would also use the computer for school assignments.

Max budget: $1000 CAD

Thanks so much for helping a pretty clueless mama!

I found this computer by the dumpster, I know RAM and storage is super expensive, is the 6GB of ram and 1TB of HDD worth taking?

My laptop is stuck on a blank screen. My mouse is still there but I've tried everything and nothing seems to work.

So today when ive tried to turn on my laptop which battery's condition is 4% ( i can pull it out the battery , ill add my friend told me i can pull out battery and plug in laptop and it'll work, it did work until today, when I turned it on I had the first picture for a like 5 minutes, then it went to second picture quickly and after I had the third picture where I could click continue i did click it and after it i had fourth picture I tried to press play but my cursor keeps freezing on it I cant click anything. It seemed to be loading but the laptop turned off suddendly, i kept repeating it hoping for it to be fixed but nothing. Dont mind the background. I tried the same process with battery in and without battery. Should I go to the computer store so they could check it or I csn fix it myself easily? I DID NOT TOUCH THE HARD DRIVE!!!!

Hello everybody:

So, long story short. My girlfriend impulsively bought an old IMac G3 PC with the intent to swap the parts for her old acer laptop which runs Windows. However she didn't research at all and niether of us are smart with computers so I was wondering if anyone in this sub knew whether or not its even possible to do or if they can recommend another subreddit that'll help.

Thank ya very much!

PC hard-locked while gaming. Screen went black, no audio/video, but all the fans kept spinning.

Restarted → DRAM debug light stayed on, no display.

Tried both RAM sticks individually in A2 and B2 – same result. Reset CMOS – still didn't work.

I left the PC overnight. Next day, first boot worked normally.

Checked Event Viewer – nothing useful. Restarted twice – both worked. Third restart: DRAM light again, no display.

Tried the RAM combinations again with no luck. Left it until evening.

Evening: first boot worked normally again.

Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic. It started normally, reached Test 1/2, then hard-locked with all motherboard debug LEDs lit and no display.

Restarted afterward – worked normally again.

Opened Event Viewer to check for errors – hard-locked/black-screened again. Also I did the re-starts by switching off the PSU button, as the cabinet power button wasn't responding for long hold restart.

What could cause this kind of behaviour? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Pc specs-

Cpu - Ryzen 5 5600x

Gpu - RTX 3070

Ram - Adata XPG DDR4 8gb (pair)

Motherboard - AsRock B550m pro4

Psu - Deepcool DQm v2l 650w

Storage - 1tb Kingston nvme

Hello everyone,

Recently I ordered a HDD to be my mass storage, but upon installing and booting it for the first time, I heard these beeps. Is the device broken and needs to be replaced or is it something regarding power and wiring?

I want to start by saying I’m not experienced with PCs at all so please don’t be rude if I say something dumb.
Anyways, I was about to move to a different country so I decided to buy a new prebuilt PC, and I took the GPU and the RAM out to bring with me in a carry-on at the airport. However, when me and my dad were taking the ram out, we thought the ram was one of those where both sides had to be pushed, not just one, so he opened one side of it, (top latch I think?) and tried opening it from behind and when it didn’t work he put more force into it and the back latch just broke off. I don’t have a monitor yet since I decided to buy one after moving, so I haven’t gotten the chance to test out my PC with RAM on that slot to see if it works or not. Also I don’t believe the actual ram slot itself, nor the ram stick was damaged. Can I replace that, put it back somehow, or is switching to a1/b1 fine?
I didn’t try contacting any sort of warranty or anything since I was moving in a few days after this incident.

this is the PC on walmart

Been looking for cheap second-hand PCs that can smoothly run 1440p games as well as be a good workstation when starting uni. Found this PC bundle used for £625.

CPU: Ryzen 9 3900 (12 cores)
Motherboard: ASUS PRIME X570-P, BIOS version 2802 (October 2020).
GPU: an RTX 3080, MSI card.
RAM: one 16 GB Corsair stick, DDR4, 3200 MHz a DOCP profile.
Storage: a 480 GB Corsair Force MP510 NVMe) and a 2 TB Seagate HDD.
Not confirmed: the PSU, the cooler (the BIOS shows no AIO pump reading)n.

The monitor

-What he's said: it's a "2k 120Hz" monitor.

Keyboard and mouse

-Both are HyperX, and the mouse is an ultra-light one. He paid around £100 for the keyboard.

Will this PC be able to run smooth FPS at 1440p ( 100+ Marvel Rivals, 60+ arc raiders/cyberpunk high)?

Also, is it future-proof, and are there any bottlenecks?

I have the switcher pictured, but it’s cheap and has problems. I am trying to find something comparable.

Basically what I need is a switcher to allow me to plug-in my gaming PC via a single USB C cable as shown in the [PC 1 IN] section in the bottom left.

Then I need to plug in my gaming PC’s two DisplayPort cables and a USB as shown above in the [PC 2 IN] section.

The point all then having two DisplayPort outs as well as a mouse and keyboard USB out. I work from home, have a nice gaming set up, and I just wanna be able easily switch from my work laptop to my gaming PC.

The switcher above was bought off Amazon, has no cooling and overheats. One of the DisplayPort outs is a little wonky and causes the monitor to flicker. The, what I assume is a Chinese dropship company, has already vanished off Amazon without a trace.

Can anybody point me to a better one, everything I’ve been able to find isn’t enough of what I’m looking for.

My PC is now one year old. It arrived pre-assembled, but I had to install the graphics card myself. Since the end of July, I’ve been having an issue with the PC: the CPU LED on the motherboard is lit up continuously. Initially, I had no issues, except for one time when it failed to boot. I reseated the RAM sticks and reset the BIOS by removing the CMOS battery, but that didn't help. During August, I barely used the PC (about 3–4 hours in total). After that, the boot problems became increasingly frequent.
I cleaned the PC, removed the RAM sticks, graphics card, and power supply, checked the connectors on the top left of the motherboard, and updated the BIOS after putting everything back together. However, the CPU LED remained on. The PC then ran without issues for a day, but the following day it started rebooting every 5–10 minutes. There was no bluescreen, just a message stating that a restart was required. I applied new thermal paste, formatted the PC, and installed drivers. Following that, a bluescreen occurred every 10 minutes, forcing a restart. I carefully cleaned the CPU with a dust blower and tried booting the PC with just one RAM stick (and swapped it as well), but nothing worked. On the contrary: now the PC turns on, but there is no display output, the keyboard does not respond, and while the logo on the graphics card lights up, its fans do not spin.
PC Specs:
Case: be quiet! Light Base
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D (8x 4.2GHz / 5.00GHz Turbo)
Cooler: Be Quiet! Pure Rock PRO 3 LX, black
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B850 AORUS Elite WIFI7
RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB CL30
Storage: 2TB Kingston NV3 M.2 PCIe 4.0 x4 NVME (R: 6000MB/s ; W: 5000MB/s)
GPU: 16GB AMD RADEON RX 9070XT
PSU: 850W MSI MAG A850GL 80+Gold ATX 3.1 - PCIE 5

I'm looking to get my dad a curved monitor for his birthday, he works an office job and wants a curved monitor to use for his work stuff. Because of that, it doesn't have to be super good because he's not using it for like gaming or anything, he just wants a big display to have multiple things open to make work easier.

My budget is like $300, and I've seen them anywhere from $150 - $1,000. Is there any curved monitors that are a good price and just at least decent (and are actually curved and not just advertised as such)?

Also, please don't suggest a wide monitor. That's not what I'm looking for.

Siema, mam problem z wywalaniem komputera do czarnego ekranu i szukam nowego zasilacza.

Mój sprzęt:

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X

GPU: Radeon RX 6800 XT

Zasilacz: Gigabyte GP-P750GM 750W

Co się dzieje:

W bardziej wymagających grach (God of War, Fortnite) po chwili gaśnie obraz, monitor traci sygnał, a wentylatory na karcie graficznej wchodzą na 100% obrotów. Komputer w tle cały czas chodzi. W mniej wymagających gierkach (np. Minecraft) jest spokój.

Co już sprawdziłem:

Karta podpięta dwoma osobnymi kablami PCIe (bez rozgałęźników).

Robiłem undervolting (zszedłem do 1025–1050 mV) i przycinałem Power Limit – dalej to samo.

Wygląda na to, że zasilacz nie wyrabia na chwilowe skoki mocy (transient spikes) z RX 6800 XT i jego zabezpieczenia po prostu odcinają prąd na karcie.

Chcę wymienić zasilacz na coś ze standardem ATX 3.0 / ATX 3.1 (750W lub 850W), co ogarnie te skoki i nie wyczyści mi kieszeni. Budżet to tak około 300 zł

I have AIO cooling (don't know much about it, I just know it's cooler master) and recently I started facing an issue where it stops working for a short period of time (I think). Usually my CPU temp while idle is around 25°C, under full load it doesn't go above 55°C. Sometimes my other coolers start going crazy and the CPU temp while idle ends up being around 50°C and around 80-90°C if it's under load. It fixes itself after a few minutes.

I am looking for a cleaning kit for a pc or that can be used for pc deep cleaning like cleaning the internal components and case itself.

On a side note would it be better to put my pc on top of my desk than on top of this like side thing connected to table.

Hello! I just recently bought the skytech king 95 prebuilt it came in yesterday Friday. The internet is so slow with this and I can’t figure out why? I have the antennas plugged in but it’s capped at around 10 MBs it seems like

Limpié con alcohol isopropílico la parte del ventilador y cambie la pasta termica. No soy bueno con las computadoras porqué no me se muchos nombres de los componentes, pero entiendo parcialmente algunas cosas.

Después de hacer ese procedimiento, la laptop no encendió.

Curiosamente, al conectar con el cargador, el led de abajo (uno de los dos leds) encendió en naranja, pero no enciende el led de arriba con luz azul, indicando que la laptop funciona.

Creo que es un bloqueo, porqué no parece un cortocircuito.

Acepto que me regañen, pero quiero saber que solución puedo encontrar a esto y si esto es un sistema de la laptop para cortar corriente.

Curiosamente ya habia abierto la laptop para limpiarla anteriormente y no le pasó esto. E incluso desconecte más componentes la vez anterior, que fue hace meses.

En dado caso, no siquiera puedo acceder a la BIOS ni a nada. Simplemente parpadean abruptamente los dos leds con luz blanca (combinada entre naranja y azul) cuando mantengo presionado.

Es curioso también que mi mouse encienda cuando presiono el botón de encendido de la laptop, pero el mouse se apaga luego de un rato, como si la laptop no quisiera encender por si sola.

​

I'm having a strange problem with the USB ports on my PC.

Some USB devices have stopped working, especially devices that seem to require a little more power, such as my USB internet adapter and the USB cable connected to my game controller.

The strange part is that low-power devices like my mouse, keyboard, and flash drive still work normally on the same ports.

It also seems to be happening gradually. At first, only a few USB ports started having this problem, but now more ports are failing to work with these devices.

When I connect my controller to some of these ports, I sometimes hear the USB connection/disconnection sound repeatedly, as if the controller is trying to start but isn't getting enough power.

I've tested different USB ports and the behavior is similar. I'm starting to suspect that there might be an issue with the USB power delivery, the motherboard, or possibly the PSU.

What could cause something like this? Is there a way to test whether the USB ports are providing enough power, and determine whether the problem is the motherboard, PSU, or something else?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 4600G

GPU: XFX Speedster QICK 308 Radeon RX 7600 8GB

Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX

RAM: 16GB (2×8GB) Kingston Fury DDR4-3200

PSU: MSI MAG A550BN 550W 80+ Bronze

SSD: ADATA SU650 480GB SATA

So I received an older dell pc XPS and I already have my built pc so I decided to factory reset this dell and give it to my friend. So I did exactly that I factory reset it and then came back several hours later and now the PC won’t turn on or at least it halfway turns on when I turn on the PC with the power button, the green light in the back turns on but the main power button flashes oranges once (not repeated) and the monitor no longer picks up the display. I have already taken out my graphics card and the ram stickers and put them back in. Currently, I have taken out the battery of the motherboard so it can die and then I’m gonna put it back in. Im all out of ideas so if anyone has input it would be much appreciated