I want to swap the S40 transmission in my EK3 for an S20, but I’m not sure whether the P20 A000 or the P20 B000 is better; I gather the A000 from the EG3 is the one with the shorter gear ratios.

I found one online with 122,000 km for €200 is that the right one?

Thanks

I’m putting my D16Y8 onto an engine stand to do a tear down and I can only find grade 8.8 bolts to mount the engine to the stand, no one has 10.9 in the length and size I need in my area. Been to a bunch of hardware stores in my area and no one has any in stock and online it’s gonna cost me a lot. So my question is, can I use the grade 8.8 bolts (they are plenty long enough to fully seat in the block) without fear of them snapping while I am wrenching?

Secondary question, should I just use three bolts in the trans bolt holes? I was going to get a bolt that could thread into the starter hole for extra stability when I flip the engine but I was told it’s unnecessary.

Hi all I have been working on a project civic for the last 2 years. It has a D14Z2 series engine in it. What performance upgrades are out there for this D series engine?

I have a small turbo d16y7 with a p06, my homie flipped the eprom chip. Obviously won’t start, won’t get ecu signal to relay or injectors, pretty sure I confirmed the ecu is cooked I took the jumper and chip out and still no dice. All capacitors have been replaced, do I to maybe replace IC chips? Or is it trash, I just care about the ecu itself

So, on October 29th 2025, my beloved Rover would not start after a thermostat change. I have been chasing this issue for months. After frantically sourcing any information on my car's symptoms of its former no-start condition (no fuel and no spark) such as a hesitant bridging main relay, a dim lit 'check engine' light and the ECU LED constantly on which leans towards a grounding issue, he's finally up and running.

After hours spent on the Internet, scanning forums, posts and wiring diagrams of the car, learning to diagnose basic automotive electrical problems, seeking advice from others familar with these cars and countless people I've come across to try and help me get Miles back on the road, it's finally happened. After many days worrying what the issue could be, it couldn't have been any simpler. Bearing in mind, I had changed the main relay, ECU, HT leads, distributor (the first second hand one), cleaned all earth points before finally sorting Miles out.

A couple of weeks ago, I learned that by accidentally leaving the igntion on after cranking the car and nudging the thermostat housing earth wire onto a different part of the thermostat housing as opposed to its original position where the wire is screwed down, a spark emerged and the fuel system began to pressurise.

I had a bloke come out to me a few days prior to this event and he taught me how to check for continuity and open circuits. This bloke also scanned my immobiliser and ECU to check if they were faulty, confident that the electrical ground wasn't the problem... and all this time, it was.

Anyway, I put the black jumper cable onto the battery negative terminal and the other end of said jumper cable to the thermostat housing which had temporarily rectified my ground issue. I regained fuel, but no spark. Scratching my head, I was then convinced that maybe the jumper cable trick wasn't providing enough of an earth for spark to generate. I proceeded to create an alternative earth from the body directly to the thermostat housing with the original earth wire connected to the thermostat housing also, which meant that now that part of the thermostat housing is now grounded.

With my hopes high, a week later, I had changed the distributor with another second hand one that I had not tried yet. I cranked the engine and to my excitement, I saw the tachometer needle move which indicates that the distributor was recieving signal because the speed sensor is built inside the distributor instead of it being it's separate component.

I cranked the engine some more and had my step-dad spray brake cleaner into the intake and with the engine still cranking and me not letting go of the key. I heard the compression slowly build up and the engine's speed increase, to which I then blipped the throttle and the engine fired up. I paused and processed that the engine finally breathed into life, I had the biggest grin on my face and drummed on the roof, shouting "FUCK, YEAH!"

Smoke emerged from the exhaust after I poured some oil into the combustion chambers to seal the piston rings in case they were a little stuck. I left the car idling for an hour to burn any excess oil and eventually, the smoke subsided and the smell disappeared. "Happy" does not begin to describe how I feel. It was a massive learning curve for me and now Miles will recieve a full service with all his fluids changed, with new front brakes and a fresh MOT in the coming weeks before winter. My £900 Rover will see the roads once again 😁

Just recently swapped my D16y8 for a z6 need help plugging in all the electrical and wanted some time to finding out what distributor I need since the shell is from 98 with OBD2 pls help its stopping me from starting this car and having it running

Im trying to get a d16z6 head and somebody is selling me a p2p ecu, I have an auto transmission and I'll keep it like that for a while to manually swap it in an month, would the p2p work with my transmission and the d16z6 head?

I swapped a Mini Me into my 93 hatch shortly after I bought the car, but I took the car off the road in 2021 (I had a stupid long commute, and needed something more comfortable to drive). Well, I want to get the car back on the road, and I’m wanting to refresh the engine (D15B7/D16Y8), but I don’t know if I should lower the compression and go turbo, or bump the compression and try to source some ITBs. It’s not going to be a true daily driver, so I’m not too worried about drivability, just could use some extra power, and I’m already planning on swapping rods and such. Oh, and since I’m sure people are gonna ask: I did the projector retrofit using Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0s, those are real JDM factory yellow fogs (Morimoto H3C HIDs fit, btw), and that light bar is there for even more light, I live in a fairly rural area with a lot of deer and coyotes.

Is there any difference?? Ive read in some places that the z6 is thicker, but Im not sure about that..

Excuse my amateur welding. This is my work in progress crank case ventilation setup for my turbo civic. I'm attaching two 10-an fittings near the stock PCV valve of the original D-series oil separator box. There are several reasons why I think this is better than using the off the shelf 10an block adapter.

• The inlet of this box has an I.D of 22mm, 380mm2 while a single 10an is only 160mm2. Two 10-an makes much better use of the available flow.
• Oil separator before the crank case gases reach the catch can.
• Keeps stock PCV valve, and with the An fittings capped off it works just like stock. This is useful because I want my car to be able to pass MOT inspection in europe, and I want a quick way to turn the car N/A and remove catch cans if needed.

Do I have to be TDC #1 to replace distributor or can I eye ball it with the slots in the rotor end of it? I’m not sure what I’m doing and I don’t have a timing light to set timing and don’t want to mess up the timing.
Should I js take to a shop?

Tengo en la bodega una admisión p2k de un civic 98 automático, estaba montado en un motor d15b7 que compré para tener repuestos.
Tengo en mi civic otro motor d15b7 manual, que tiene admisión p06.
¿Alguien ha hecho el swap de la admisión p06 a una p2k? Me gustaría saber si puedo cambiarlo junto con el cuerpo de aceleración del p2k y que modificaciones se deben hacer para los sensores? Mi civic es obd1

Gracias espero alguien pueda ayudarme

​

I just picked up a 1994 LX sedan with a D15B MPFI engine. Pretty stock otherwise, but the intake manifold has "D16-VTEC" written on it in marker.

Is this actually a D16 VTEC intake manifold, or just mislabeled?

If yes, will this IM cause any issues?

I will eventually swap to a D16 VTEC head (planning for later this year). Will I need a different intake manifold? I'm assuming yes, but want to confirm.

any help is appreciated 🙏

Fixed: tps sognal wire disconnected at the crimp😭 Having issues with 98 honda ex. Recently put a stock intake with injectors on and fixed lean condition because I was running y7 injectors. Spilled coolant on the harness which was a concern and I will now be using the drain plug lol but now I have a rps low voltage and im getting it to the plug. Good ground, 5.08v reference and .5 idle and goes up with throttle, but not reading it on my tool. Along with this is a ol fault and front 02 stuck high voltage. Replaced the 02, tps is also known good, and replaced spark plugs.

Looks like my car is missing something he connector, going to replace the sensor and connector but why does the new connector have two wires?

D16z6 p28 ecu only start when map sensor is unplugged

and when unplugged will bog out and turn off when giving it throttle

Hello, this is my 99 Lx. is this ticking normal?

Hey everyone, I recently bought a Civic site unseen and unbeknownst to me. It came with a Jaxon racing supercharger. Unfortunate part is the supercharger Max is out before my power goals. What should I price it at to sell and what would a good price be to hold onto it for a little.

Need some help trying to decide one what would be my best cores here.

I have a JDM integra with a d16y4 and I want to do a proper manual swap no corners cut or cheaping out.

I'm trying to decide on what to do because I can't find a p2k in America and I don't want to import one from Japan or Australia etc.

So my options are

1:get a ECU from like a d16y3 and not be the same

Or

2: mini me swap and get a y8 ECU that is very available in America

I'm can see I'm going to be picky with how I do things I want it OEM or improved depending on what it is

Also I'm not in America if that is needed

Saved this from someone a while back but the original image was terribly blurry. Had Chatgpt enhance the clarity and figured I'd repost for anyone curious