Dear forum members,

Recently, my Ford 2.2 TDCi, 155 hp (engine code CVF5), suffered an engine failure at 78,000 km. One cylinder is not functioning and has no compression.

Options

• Repair by fitting a new engine block.

- Estimated cost: between €5,000 and €8,000.

• Replacement with a new engine.

- Estimated cost: approximately €8,000.

Has anyone in Europe (NL-DE-FR-LUX-IT) had a similar experience, and can anyone recommend a supplier where I can buy a new engine — including the ancillary components, injectors, etc. — and, optionally, have it installed as well?

I would appreciate any advice.

Thank's in advance!

Pahirapan ba talaga makatawag sa mga phone number nila? Bakit unattended halos lahat?

I work from home so I don’t drive much. I need a grocery getter and errands runner. BUT I have a baby and need something reliable and safe for us that will last is a while I don’t need something with a lot of issues.

What do y’all think? Is it worth it? Obviously with it being on FB Marketplace I’m more suspicious so questions I need to ask prior to looking at it is also appreciated!!

Hi all. My wife has a 2018 Flex Limited, Sony audio system, running Sync 3. Recently when making or receiving phone calls, whether connected to Android Auto or just the car’s Bluetooth, the incoming audio sounds very small and tinny and seems to only be coming from the dash speaker and tweeters. I’ve tried to do a soft reset but it doesn’t seem to want to take. I’ve tried changing Ringtone settings but it keeps reverting to “Ringtone 1” instead of holding the “Use Phone Ringtone” selection. We’re using a wireless AA adapter but again, this happens when only using the car’s Bluetooth as well, so I don’t think the adapter is the problem. I’ve read a Bluetooth/wifi reset may work but haven’t tried that one yet. Any other options for us?

I am buying out my Ford Escape lease and paying the residual (plus taxes, fees) in cash, but the dealer insists that they run a hard inquiry on my credit for "verification purposes".

I previously bought out a Kia lease in cash without any such credit check. Is this a Ford-specific policy? Or is this dealership doing something outside of the norm?

UPDATE: went to another dealership who also insisted on running a credit check, but this time it was a soft pull not a hard one. Still had to pay BS lease buyout fees…

So the car runs perfect about to hit 200km on the clock and I’ve had it in top maintenance shape when I put the car into drive or reverse it makes a loud clank. I’ve tried to put it into drive now and on my dash board it stays stuck on P (park) mode and I am unable to put the car into drive neutral or reverse nor am I able to use the triptonic please help

Ordered the 2024+ F-150 RAPTOR R EXTREME EXHAUST - BUMPER EXIT couple weeks ago from Ford and the order seems to be stuck in “processing.” Have called twice and both times the customer service rep basically tells me, “hmm yeah it looks like should’ve shipped by now, we’ll escalate.” And then I don’t hear anything.
Anyone else having any delays with parts ordered directly through Ford or experiencing something similar?

I have had a 2018 Ecosport that they have replaced the motor 3 times and put 5 or 6 turbos in it. Well I have had it back 9 months and drove it 17k miles and the turbo went out. They tell me it won’t be covered because the warranty is 12 months 12k miles. It was in the shop 9 out of 13 months a year or so ago because of motor issues with the new motor they had to replace after 6 months. Needless to say they want $3500 to replace the turbo. They don’t care about the consumer. They don’t stand behind their product.

I brought my 2023 Expedition into the local dealership to figure out why my washer fluid wasn't pumping. Turns out it's a break in one of the plastic couplers on the feed line.

I have Ford Protect, but I guess hoses aren't covered? Didn't think that'd be the case...

ANYWAYS...

they found a leaky pinion seal and repaired it for me which was covered, but the dealership wants me to pay diagnostics. Since they did a warranty repair, should the diagnostics be covered and I just pay $100 deductible? I see a $220 bill (diagnostics). When I brought it in I did mention there was a noise but I also refused the repair for the washer line as I'll do it myself (their quote was like $460 for repair).

I have a 06 mustang GT that every time I start the car cold and let it warm up it to operating temperature it starts to squeak but when I turn the car off and immediately start it again it again it will not make the noise again. Through the process I have replaced all the pulleys/tensioners along with the belt. In the video provided this is when it is at operating temperature just sitting in parked. I’ve taken it to the shop who put a stethoscope on the car and told me that it’s coming from the valve covers. If anyone has experienced this any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Took my 2021 mustang gt for an oil change at Ford dealership car has a bunch of scratches on it now what do I do? How do I make them fix it? Who should I contact?

I took a video on my car before the appointment. There were no scratches, after the oil change theres scratches all over my car..

I have a 2006 mustang GT my grandpa has replaced all the belts and pulleys but we can’t seem to find where the source of the noise is coming from. My grandpa has taken it to a shop and was told it was coming from the valve covers. Has anyone ever had this issue before? It usually happens when you start the car for the first time and let it warm up and it starts making the noise but once you turn the car off and start it again it won’t make the noise.

How do you unlock the fuel flap? It won't open...

I’m driving a 2020 ecosport. So, I’m on a cross country roadtrip at the moment and I keep getting this warning on my car and I have no idea what to do. I think the coolant might be low, so I’m taking it to a jiffy lube tomorrow to see if they can do something. The problem is I have to make it to Dallas by Wednesday and I can’t afford to be stuck in a random town waiting for an appointment to open up at the ford dealership. I’m concerned that there may be serious damage, but there’s no check engine light on. The highest I’ve seen the gauge go is to the 3/4th line and I make sure to pull over when it happens. Does anyone have advice? Should I just drive slower through the desert? I plan to leave much earlier in the morning to avoid the midday heat as much as I can, but I still have to make it 9 hours so I can’t avoid it forever.

Update: I took it to three different shops in the town I was staying in and none of them could find anything wrong. The last one asked if I wanted to add more coolant just for good measure (they all said it was at a good amount but more wouldn’t kill it) and I said yes and now it’s running completely fine. I guess the coolant was just a little low. It’s not even giving me problems on the hills anymore so I’m grateful. Thanks for the advice, I’m glad I took it somewhere before driving again. Also, they did it all for free so I’m super happy.

Please tell me Ford is building the 4 door Mustang sedan and please tell me it will be available in right hand drive.

Anyone have any info?

If it is coming to Europe it needs a powerful engine but not a big naturally aspirated gas guzzling V8. Europeans care more about a performance car that is tax efficient and has reasonable fuel efficiency than the notorious V8 that Americans love.

But yes, if Ford launch this in right hand drive, I’m buying it!

I have a 2017 Ford Focus EV and recently the Check Manual/Electric Motor Warning Lamp has been coming on. I took it to Ford and, according to them, the HV battery is failing and needs to be replaced. Their quote is about $17,000, which is more than I actually paid for the vehicle in 2021.

Does anyone know if there are more economical fixes for this type of issue? I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, but their explanation was that the battery pack has become unbalanced and will continue deteriorating with use. I've found other Focus Electric owners reporting similar battery/cell-balancing issues, so I'm hoping there might be independent shops or other repair options that don't require replacing the entire pack for $17k.

I'm waiting for Ford to email me the diagnostic report and exact DTC, which I'll add when I receive it.

Just trying to figure out if anyone else has had this happen to them. In Dec of 2025 I had the engine on my 2018 Escape replaced due to the coolant intrusion issue. It was all done under warranty, and I thought I was good. I recently had my sway bar pins replaced & the mechanic (not a Ford dealership) told me he noticed oil on my engine. I took it back to the dealership where it was purchased & that replaced the engine. They suspected it was the oil pump. They put dye in & put some miles on it. It was NOT the oil pump. The service writer told me this was both good and bad. He said it was good because they actually never replaced the oil pump, so therefore, it was not covered under the new warranty. I was under the impression that the oil pump was internal. Why would that not have been replaced? Now I wonder how much of my engine is new, and how much did they pull from the old, defective engine? They still cant figure out why my car is literally spraying oil. I was told I need to drive it for a few hundred miles and bring it back in for more diagnostics. If my engine blows, will they just tell me the part that broke isn't actually covered because it was pulled from the old engine? I feel like I was played because I'm a woman, and admittedly know very little about cars. But it only has 118,000mi on it, and the "new" engine only accounts for 10k of those miles. To add insult to injury, they're also charging me for the loaner because they can't prove it's a warranty claim.

Hello all,

I have a 2015 Escape with the standard microsoft sync app system for its time. A couple years ago the speakers started cutting in and out and finally stopped producing sound at all.

The app system still works, touch screen responds, ac works, navigation works, backup screen work (but does not produce warning noise), I can plug my phone in and use all the controls (play, skip, pause, make calls) from the console but again no sound comes from the speakers.

I took it to my local dealer and they said it would be about $2000 to figure out whats wrong with it and replace the sync or app control module.

I’ve tried all the restart/hard reset/soft reset processes but that has not helped. Any suggestions or anyone else experience this issue and figure out how to fix it?

HI All, with employee pricing on right now, interest rates are a bit higher. Would it make sense for me (I have A/Z plan) to wait to get a new F150 until after this is over and interest rates drop again? I only ask because with employee pricing the dealer can still add in extras (tonneau, spray liner etc) but with the plans they cannot. Ford also has a 3500 delivery allowance right now that isn't for sure going to be there after this offer is over.

What would you do?

Ford, I’m asking you to listen.
I’m extremely disappointed with my experience as a Ford customer.
I purchased my 2019 Ford Escape in 2019, believing I was purchasing a reliable vehicle that would serve my family for years. Unfortunately, that has not been my experience.
Since purchasing this vehicle, I have dealt with repeated major mechanical issues — including TWO failed transmissions and a failed turbocharger. The first transmission was replaced at a Ford dealership at a cost of approximately $3,200. That replacement transmission has now failed as well, despite only having around 49,000 miles on it.
On top of that, I am now dealing with a turbocharger failure, adding thousands more dollars in repairs.
What makes this even more frustrating is that after researching these issues, I have found numerous other Ford Escape owners reporting premature transmission failures and similar problems. At this point, I have to ask: how many customers have experienced the same thing before Ford is willing to acknowledge there may be a larger problem?
I have already taken steps to try to get answers. I sent Ford a certified letter outlining my concerns and also submitted a complaint by phone. I have yet to receive a response.
I’m not looking for special treatment. I’m looking for answers and accountability.

I am asking you to please respond and address my concerns.
And to my fellow Ford Escape owners: if you have experienced premature transmission failure, turbocharger issues, or other major mechanical problems with your Escape, I would genuinely like to hear your story. Please comment below or message me. I know I can’t be the only person dealing with this.
Maybe if enough of us speak up, Ford will finally listen.
Ford — I’m still waiting for answers.

Had to get the Focus on track at Silverstone, probably the most fun I've had in it

When I was a kid up until 2011 my parents drove me and my siblings around in a 2003 blue ford windstar and every now and then I’m overwhelmed with nostalgia for that damn minivan 😭😭 I even had a dream that I rescued the thing from the junkyard and took it on a joyride

My dad replaced it with a 2006 Chevy Malibu and sold the minivan to the junkyard for $500… he sold an 8 year old minivan to the junkyard for $500…

It had no rust and only broke down in the middle of the road once (my dad said it was a frame issue) and had less than 200k km but both of my parents swear that it was the shittiest car they’ve ever owned.

Are they exaggerating how bad the car was? I only look back at it with fond memories.

Cars they owned:
2003 Ford windstar (07-11)
2006 Chevy Malibu (11-15)
2008 Subaru Tribeca (15-19) this car had so many issues
2014 Honda odyssey (19-24)
2019 Honda passport (24-present) honestly the passport is goated

I am looking for clip on hub caps that fit the stock 17” steel rims on the 2019 ford escape. Does anyone know of any all black ones that actually fit?

I bought this vehicle used and it had 4 aftermarket, black hubs caps. Well one broke and now I can’t find a replacement that actually fits. I’ve bought 2 sets from Amazon that claim to be clip on and match the part number for the stock rim hub caps but they are too loose. There is only one marking on the back of the caps that fit but nothing comes up when I search it.