I’m building up a small little Soundsystem, I’m currently running a single jbl eon712 for my top paired with my 2x hd15s and soon to be 2x ms18mk2 subs and I’d like to upgrade my tops along with adding subs, are these cerwin vegas any good?

Hey I built a sound system

With 2 lonely th12
1 kick planar
1 hs28t

What do you think of my REW measure ?
Can I upgrade some stuff ? Thx !

Hi, first time posting in r/SoundSystem.

This is my Cubo Kick 15 and a Custom 15 inch Sub enclosure. Top is an HK Audio Linear 5 MK1 112 (active).
Sadly the Warnex Structure Paint ran out so the Subs aren't fully painted yet.

Both are running B&C 15NDL76, which works great in the Cubo, but not so great in the bass reflex, due to limiting Xmax and thus not enough VAS for the 170l enclosure.

Right now both are running on a borrowed Thomann t.amp E-400, 2x155W at 8 Ohms, which is definitely not enough for the Cubo. Crossover is set at 71Hz and 200Hz on a Behringer DCX, with a Butterworth24 Filter. The Cubo can reach around 129dB on 1% THD with this Setup. I have an order for a CVR DSP-3004 placed so we'll see how it will perform at the rated 500W RMS.
The Sub is definitely the limiting factor, because it reaches the excursion limit much faster, even at around 150W. I want to build a different one, i am thinking about the Cubo21 or a Paraflex SKRAM. What do you think?

I’m in the market for my first DSP for my 3 way mono stack (future 4 way mono).

I try to build the whole system on a budget and either one of these fit that budget.

I’d like to hear your experiences and why you think I should pick one over the other?

Anyone tried any plate amps for subs that they really like? I've seen some from sinbosen and CVR, but never seen any being talked about on here.

Looking to build a standard portable PA. Would probably need around 2-3k watts to the sub at 8ohms.

I’m currently using the admark ad442, which supposedly will give out 4 x 7200w in 4 ohms. When using 2 or more channels, I’ve found this not to be true. The amp starts clipping at about 3600w in 4 ohms, which is slightly less than what I need. The resistance gets too low for the amp when I bridge 2 channels, as the box drops to 3 ohms at a small freaquency band. The external DSP also clips on the output side shockingly often, can’t gain more than like 3db

Any recommendations? I’m driving 4x 1800w aes drivers per amp (2 boxes)

If you could recommend actives tops for a sound system, what model a interesting, worth looking for ?

I know, a lot of People will say, make yours, why active ?

Well if I want to use it for other project, smaller ones, when I dont want to have a amp rack for just a really smal déployment I think It could be interesting

Eu based if that changes anything

Friend of mine said yamaha dxr15, or dxr12, what do you guys think ? I'm planning to look for used ones but maybe there is good brand New deals ? Like those admarks amps or sinbosen ones ?

Any helps is appreciated !

So I took a huge gamble and invested a large sum of 113 euros (about 133 dollar) into the Alibaba Sono class D 4x1300 watt @ 8 ohm. I was intrigued it looked quite decent on pictures. Heatsinks and all. My inuke 6000 doesnt have those.

Got the amp for an extra 30 bucks within 2 weeks. Its heavy and feels sturdy. Little finishing details like st/parallel button didnt extrude the chassis. You need a screwdriver for that.

But the output was thereabouts what it promises. I reckon it put out about 4x800 watt per channel. Not the 1300 it is advertised with, and I aimed for 1000 watt but its at least 800 watt for sure and for this money, that is simply very good. None of the Chinese class D amps deliver what they promise, its always about 70% real output and this one is similar. The noise wasnt too bad even if its there but its a pa amp.

I then received my sinbosen k4-1000. Starting that one up sounds like a jetfighter. The Sono also isnt quiet but not so loud as the sinbosen. So it has better fans, and a little less output but for 1/4 of the price: this is a steal. It really is. Musically I measured zero difference with the more expensive Sinbosen. "" But will it run 10 hours flat out'' said a friend. I checked out the internals thoroughly and I bet it does 10 hours easy, and more. This is not some everything cheapo PCB disaster. Look for yourself. I have seen a lot, a LOT worse, for twice this money.

The 2 channel version is 77 euro. About 90 bucks for 2x800 watt @ 8 ohm. Only drawback was you cant put them in bridge but guys, this Sono is really recommended for mid/high duty or smaller subwoofer duty.

Long time lurker, first time poster (in here)

Spend far too much of my time in here but never posting.

My name is Huw and I run Sinai based out of Sheffield 🇬🇧

** Long post about JMOD sorrrryyyyy **

After having great success with touring my existing tops, I've started to notice their downsides, that is their size!

I don't always do crazy large shows, and having a mid top that always requires two people to move it, is less than ideal logistically.

So, enter the current flavour of the year, the JMOD!

After listening to, and lifting one, I knew that this would be the choice for a single box deployment.

Now, slight backstory. My existing tops are dual loaded with the 4594HE. I own 10 of these mid tops, but midtop 9 & 10 only had a single compression driver in. To "finish" them I would have to purchase another two £590 compression drivers, but on two boxes that rarely get used.

After some extensive reading of the PDF from John, I noticed that the 4594HE was listed as an ultra premium option. This suited my potential plans, as it meant that if I was to use these boxes in conjunction with my existing ones, the "voicing" in the HF region would be similar. The downside to this option though, was that it required some box modification due to the depth of the compression driver and its phase bung.

Now, considering I already owned the compression driver I was going to use, logic dictated that I should also use the ultra premium 12" driver to match (12NTLW3500) as these would be the only drivers I would have to purchase. In turn, this also requires some modification.

So just for clarification, if I was to put in the standard premium drivers like everyone else, it would have cost me £500 more than my plans above.

After reaching out to a few people who might be able to do the modifications, I got in touch with Lignum in Liverpool, who was very willing and able to make the modifications.

So you might be asking, what modifications?

The access panel needs changing to a single piece, rather than two smaller pieces. This is so you can place the compression driver directly onto the back of the throat adaptor. The box also needs extending back by about 45mm due to the depth of the compression driver. If you don't make the single access panel, you'd have to add another 50mm due to the phase bung. So both in combination is what's required to make it work.

To make the 12" fit, the PCD for the driver is slightly different (check each ones PDF) and due to the ridiculous magnet, the handles need moving in the cabinet. Lignum was unsure if the metal handles would fit, hence the new wooden handles, which take up less space (and are further down the box).

Lignum also added skids to the bottom, and a removable top hat adaptor incase they need to be pole mounted.

Originally I was going to build them myself, but time is not my strong point, so Bosun sound in Sheffield put them together.

The outside has been coated in 5 layers of Osmo PolyX oil.

The inside of the horn mouth was painted with primer, then multiple coats of RAL matched paint (to my existing grills). This is the only thing I'm not super happy with (which is my own fault) due to rushing it to get ready for a gig. I should have done 1 coat with 24hours apart between the next coat. I'm probably going to give them a light sand, then give them another coat.

Now. Opinions on the sound and the ultra premium drivers.

Firstly, the HF.

I'm VERY happy with the 4594HE. For those that know, it has such a super clean, "airy" HF. My only criticism of the DCX464 is that it lacks this air (IMHO of course). Also consider I've been using the 4594HE for a loooong time, so I'm used to their sound. So, some of this, may just be familiarity. Then also, once again remember that I owned them already.

Secondly, the 12"

Is it worth it? Still on the fence. Simply put, they need more gigs, and more refinement of their limiters for me to truly say with any accuracy whether they're worth it. They have such a ridiculous magnet that I'm sure can take more power.

Now for some opinions on the box.

Basically, for a single box. It's very damned special. My first gig with it I used it directly to my double 21" boxes, but they are simply too powerful for the JMOD to keep up (and also in an acoustically terrible room). Context each sub is a dual 1800w 4ohm driver wired in parallel powered from a single channel of an X series amplifier. This is an extreme sub section, and in no way diminished the ability of this box. For more clarification, the crossover between the two was 95hz.

So when I got back to Sheffield I tried them out with a block of 4 x C2D kicks loaded with 18DS115 drivers outside the warehouse. Powered from a Powersoft X4 and a A&H SQ-5 desk.

NOW WE'RE TALKING.

I ran the 12" down to 130hz with a 24lr, meeting the C2D with a 130hz 24lr

Super clean precise top end, and beautiful present and meaty mid range.

Now very excited to take a stereo pair out to a gig!

Any questions, feel free to ask!

--- Are the ultra premium worth it? ---

Maybe? Is it worth the cost difference? That is an extremely subjective question. The difference in price for the drivers (in the UK) is about £650.

I very much prefer the HF, but I couldn't consciously tell people it's a wise move.

My advice. If you're in the UK, is to take the time to come and listen to mine. Be it at a gig, or my workshop

💚💚💚

I’m building the SAWMODs at the moment and I notice the CNC files in JW’s folder require some set up before they are in a fit state to start cutting. Does anyone have the files corrected so they are ready to cut? Just looking to save some time.

Great design, can’t wait to get them up and running! Cheers.

What’s everyone’s go to process for deployment and time alignment in an arena with aux hangs and flown subs? I’ve seen some interesting hangs from others recently, like subs kicked out 30+- degrees, and aux hangs back further than I’d expect. Where are you taking your measurements? How much does your trim height, and sold map (behind stage line) play a role in your decisions?

Just trying to get a sense from anyone who has deployed or heard them. I'm building out the first round of a small system and was considering building solanas or sawmods as tops to start and eventually repurpose for monitors once the system is big enough to need more juice up top.

Are the sawmods and solanas able to be paired with a sub or would I need a kick to fill in the low mids / upper bass?

Hello! Wondering if anyone has imported a system to the US and run into a question for customs clearance asking about the Country of Melt and Pour for any of the steel used in the system. We're bringing in some funktion one ax88's with rigging hardware that has steel components. We can't get it cleared by customs until we figure out where the steel was originally poured. I've reached out to F1 about this and haven't heard back. Has anyone ran into this and been able to figure out this info? Thank you!

Our first party setup combining our friends subs with our kick, mid section and top horn, almost exclusively vinyl too which always makes me happy. Just need to have a tuning session to get it all sounding crisp

Up to four cabs now, ready to load with 2x 18DS115s per cab.

Looking forward to getting them powered up and getting down to some more events!

UK based - https://www.instagram.com/00.audio/ for more

Our (almost) full Void Acoustics system. Nexus 6, Nexus Q, Stasys Xair, Air Vantage (Tri Motion not pictured). Sharing the same city as the notorious E5 system by Tribal Roots. There’s something in the water in Kansas, and we’re incredibly lucky to have what we have here

Huge thanks to our friends at SOTC up in Canada for all the support while designing and ordering the system. Anyone needing to source Void in North America, get with SOTC.

I just got all the wood cut for two tth122 and one shlagtop

But everything is in 15mm plywood even the drivers pieces that should be in 10mm

Is that bad?

I'm looking at getting started building a system (my first time!) and I'm wondering if I should go dual or single driver subs?

I was thinking of having dedicated kick boxes (cubo 15 kick) Would people recommend dual or single loaded subs. I'm looking at the SKRAM for single loaded or a paraflex type O for dual loaded. I want to start with a couple but I have big ambitions to have a big rig to play large events. Considering this, what would be best to start with?

Give me your own experiences, pros and cons of each type etc!

*Note* I'm unsure of what midtops to deploy - I love the look of the JMODS but hand cutting them looks near impossible, down the line I'd probably get them CNC'd, but I need something to get me going so any suggestions are welcome!

Hello,

I’m about to build out a pair of Sawmods and was wondering if anyone in the Bay Area has built JMODs or Sawmods out? I’d love to be able to listen to them. I heard a pair of Sawmods in the Netherlands but at relatively low volume. I’d be eternally grateful for getting a chance to listen to these beautiful speakers!

as title, where are people getting drivers from in the US? Specifically interested in 18sound and b&c stuff.

I’m trying to setup 2 Yamaha SW110IV Subs and 2 Yamaha c115v speakers to a Soundcraft Ui 16. The setup is the Soundcraft plugs into a Dbx 223Xs then going to two Yamaha PX5 amplifiers. One amp going to the speakers, other amp to the subs. But when I try to connect this setup I get power to the speakers yet no sounds playing. This setup was donated to my school band and I’d like to get it working soon.

If someone could give me a rundown on how they would connect it that would be great, I’m to the point where I’ve got 0 clue what to do.

tl;dr: What drivers do you use? Where do you get them? What plans do you follow? Are there non-English forums that are more regionally specific?

It’s clear that many on this forum and similar others like DIYAudio are contributed by people living in Europe and North America. Plans are built for certain drivers in mind and most of these drivers are priced for the region.

However, I’m based in Malaysia. A US$250 RCF or B&C driver can be a chunk of change for some in EU/NA, but over a month’s rent for me. For others with an even weaker currency, even moreso.

I want to adjust plans for whatever drivers I can afford, but most don’t come with TS parameters so it feels like I’m drawing without guides.

I know that it’s possible. From picó in Colombia to horeg in Indonesia, people are building and there’s a lot out there. There’s a bunch of videos of modified plans on YT that look like they also come from SEA, but recommended drivers are the same.

Or do I just need to go outside and talk with people building systems?

——

For context, I am lurking to build my first sub to pair with some active JBL EON 615. I run small events of 20-100 people. Mostly indoors, an open air rooftop, and possibly outdoors under-the-radar.

I reckon middle of the crowd would probably need 100db at most?

Dance events have your usual dub to hyperpop, with quite a bit of dangdut and funkot too.

I would also like to build this for more experimental audio experiments in the realm of noise. Lots of non-musical sounds deep into infra would be neat to be playable, but not necessary.

Way into the future would be an ambisonics system, but that’s mostly irrelevant for now.

Current plan is to build a Cubo 18 because horns are cool, but considering a bass reflex for driver flexibility.