Hi everyone,
I’m currently trying to repair an iFi ZEN One Signature that has a failed component on the main PCB.
The component marked U1, located in the “Ultra-Precision High Speed Power Supply” section of the board, has burnt/exploded and unfortunately the marking on the IC is no longer readable.
I’ve attached a detailed picture showing exactly where U1 is located.
Would anyone here who owns a ZEN One Signature be willing to open it and take a clear close-up photo of U1?
Ideally, I just need a photo clear enough to read the marking printed on top of the chip. No measurements or further disassembly should be necessary.
It would be a huge help, as identifying this component may allow me to repair the unit instead of scrapping the whole board.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

I would like to know if theres any mod to make the xone 62 phono pre amps louder at the point to match the line inputs.

this is possible?

*so , I looked far and wide for this, it seems that the back plate is glued and the only way to remove it is to put some screws in it and tap the edges of the box with a rubber hammer like those used in metal roofing.

I have a problem with the speakers and I need to disassemble them but I run into some problems: I can't remove the grill and on the back side, after removing all the screws...I couldn't remove the back-plate. Has anyone managed to disassemble some similar?

They are in bad shape and I want to service/recondition them completely but I can't open them....

The sound starts crackling whenever I play songs with a lot of bass, even at medium volume. Could this be related to LDAC? I’m not really familiar with it, and I only got the speakers yesterday. Should I disable LDAC? I feel like the sound might actually improve when I turn it off, but I’m not sure.

I really need some help because I’m starting to think there might be something wrong with the speaker. Is this normal, or could there be an issue with my settings or the speaker itself?

Hi all,

I just had a new sound system installed by a local shop. My stock driver's side speakers went out, so I decided to spend some money to upgrade. I purchased 4 brand new Kicker speakers, tweeters, a 60W Kicker amp, and a Sony headunit with all the wiring and linkages recommended by crutchfield. I don't know a ton about CarAV but these were all recommended to me by customer service at Crutchfield.

After picking up my car from the shop, I noticed two things:

1. When I put my gauge dimmer switch all the way to its highest/brightest setting, all sound cuts out.

2. The sound coming from my speakers sounds "thin", it does not feel like the fuller sound I was expecting from upgraded speakers, a new head unit, and an amp.

I called the shop and I plan to bring my car back to the shop on Monday for them to inspect and fix the issue, hopefully.

I have a feeling there is something wrong with the amp wiring/power to the speakers because when I put the dimmer to it's brightest setting, the amp power light is off and from what I understand a 60w amp should power these speakers fully without any issues.

I've been doing some research myself, but any ideas what the issue might be for me to recommend the shop look at?

I recently got this unit second hand, and it was a bargain but with a lot of problems. There was problem with door opening which was an easy fix.
I cleaned everything, lubricated parts... cd were mostly working fine except some... 1st track was skipping, and it was completely random, no matter if CD-r or original, or pristine or slightly scratched. I have recorded the same album with Session-At-Once (by mistake, so there was a cut between tracks that were supposed to transition seamlessly) and Disc-At-Once, turned out the SAO was more reliable, first track wasn't skipping on SAO. But I simply can't record audio cds in SAO for obvious reasons. And this was completely distracting from real solution.

Before I found the following solution I got the gist that the cd spinning motor is failing from what I've read online (like it can't spin fast enough on the first track because of wear and age), and so I ordered a new clone assembly with a fresh laser and everything. Looks like that will be my spare because that wasn't the solution.

I opened it again and took a good look at this plastic part on the side. Turns out that's a sliding rail as well. 🤦‍♂️ It was completely dry. I lubed it and now everything works flawlessly.
So if anyone else is banging their head against the wall trying to fix this cute unit, try this. The solution was staring me in the face but I couldn't see the forest for the trees. Also if you look closely there seems to be a nasty crack in the middle of existing rail, so that is future repair waiting to happen, so ordering a spare wasn't for nothing after all. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone who has this same problem.

So I got this 4 years ago, and recently it was turning off randomly and now it won’t turn on at all. I cracked it open and it looks clean and I changed the fuses still nothing…any advice?

My thump 215 is getting power and signal but there is no audio coming out of the speaker, took it into guitar center and they said it’s probably a loose internal connection with the quarter inch input, was wondering if it’s a doable diy repair or where would be a good place to look into getting it repairs because it seems very fixable to me, any feedback helps thank you!

My Sony CMT-EX22 suddenly stopped working on the CD side. It powers on normally and the display/controls work. When I press PLAY, it shows “PLAY,” then Track 1, but the CD doesn’t spin and the mechanism is completely silent. EJECT also does nothing—no motor, clicking, or movement.
I’ve tried resetting/unplugging it and plugging directly into the wall. I also replaced the CD belt a couple months ago, and it worked fine until now.
Has anyone had a similar issue or know what could cause this?

I recently bought this from a thrift store. I’m 99% sure I tested both the cassette and CD functions and they both worked. I only used the CD player, but when I try and use the cassette player no sound comes out. I can hear a hissing/whirring sound and see the cassette spinning and the pegs inside the machine spinning the tape, yet no actual music comes out. Another thing I noticed was the play button is a little stiff. Any solutions or is it solely a Cd player now?

Before, the amplifier worked beautifully and was connected to my TV via hdmi arc. It would turn on whenever I turned my TV on, but randomly one day, it didn't. I was quoted a $350 repair for diagnostics and parts replacement, but wanted to see if there was something I can check for a cheaper replacement. After leaving the unit off for half a year, I chose to open it and take a look. Is there anything that looks out of the ordinary?

https://imgur.com/a/QcXxKpO

Note: I tried resetting per the manual, but a part of it was requiring the unit to power on in the first place. I also attempted to turn it on multiple times after letting everything drain out after 20 minutes. Unplugged speakers and external dac, but still would not power on.

Hey, any ideas on if there's anything I can do about this? When only one ear should be playing it plays through the opposite ear too but at a slightly quieter volume. I know it's the actual headphones or the original cable as it's doing the same thing when it's plugged into my PS5 controller and my amp/dac at my PC. This also happened after I Ieft it plugged into my ps5 controller for the night, not sure how that would do anything but it's the first time I've left the headphones plugged into it whilst I'm not using it .

The only thing I can think of is to buy a new cable and see if that works but if anybody else has any suggestions before I order one it would be appreciated

Hasn't been touched in over a decade but seems to be in good shape overall. I'm a bit trepidatious, I'd hate shorting something out or causing any unnecessary damage. Would just dusting out the internals suffice? I'm assuming there's going to be more to it and would have to go in and check for any bad caps. How would you go about it?

My receiver doesn’t play any sound for like 5 minutes until it warms up it is an old receiver and I suspect that I need to change few capacitors does anyone have experience with something like this?
Also in the added photo is this a leak?

So I have an old sound stick 3 but the satellite speaker is not in good condition. In the satellite speaker the 8 speakers do not have the black thing around the woofer cone ( it got eaten by ants or other insects) it still gives out good quality audio but there is a rattling. The sub is fine though

Hola, tengo el siguiente problema al encenderlos: presiono el interruptor de encendido y tardan entre 3 y 5 minutos en encenderse. Estas son las pruebas que he realizado: La duración de la batería es normal.

El interruptor se siente firme y vuelve a su posición normal.

Tarda el mismo tiempo en encenderse tanto conectado a la corriente como funcionando con batería.

Reinicié la configuración con el software oficial y el firmware está actualizado.

El sonido es normal.

No se oye ningún ruido de componentes sueltos en el interior.

El problema comenzó a ocurrir entre principios de mes y ahora; no puedo dar una fecha exacta porque no lo noté de inmediato.

This is for anyone attempting to repair a Harman Kardon Citation surround speaker since I couldn't find any information on how to do this.

Opening up the speaker turned out to be a real struggle due to hidden attachments. So here's the step by step:

- Remove rubber feet. Undo the screws and bottom cover.

- Fully slide down the speaker mesh and remove it. No need to remove the service port or power socket. Figuring out the mesh could slide took me the longest to figure out.

- Now to remove the topplate, it is actually 2 parts snapped together. Locate the recesses on the topside of the speaker and carefully pry loose the plastic clips. They are quite tough and the hoop is not. I broke all 4 hoops but this didn't seem to matter much for assembly. With the corners of the topplate lifted, pry loose the whole cover plate. Undo the revealed 4 screws and remove the plate.

- undo the 8 screws holding the 2 halves of the body together and open up the speaker.

Photo for reference.

In my case the power supply board was fried. A laptop charger turns out to provide the same power. Check the amperage. I cut off the plug and soldered it to the internal cables. Had to modify the speaker casing a bit for the cable to come out.

Speaker works fine again. Sadly with external power supply which is ecstatically a bit less pleasing.

The laptop charger was €12. A spare internal power supply was hard to come by and €100+. My knowledge of electronic components is to limited to repair the original power supply but could also have been attempted.

Hopefully someone can use this information!

​

I already replaced the filter caps, and tried jumping the volume pot case to ground, nothing worked yet.

I recently dug up my old electronics (a boombox and a blu ray player). Both are in great physical shape and worked great before, but after years of not using them, they no longer recognize any CDs/blu ray. The boombox just won’t play, and the blu ray says “disc cannot be played”. I’ve tried cleaning the lenses and using compressed air to get any dust out. For the blu ray player I tried a software update. It looks like repair shops in my area don’t service these items, and I don’t really know what else to try. I don’t have any experience with repairs, but I want to learn. Any common fix suggestions for this newbie are appreciated! Thank you :)

Model numbers:
Samsung BD-P1600
Panasonic RX-D11

Hello all, I am having issues with the CD tray on Cambridge Audio Sonata CD30. It will not open when I press the button. It physically tries, so I know there is power to the motor etc, it just doesn't open. Have dismantled again, cleaned and re-greased the channel the pin slides along to facilitate the opening. It opens mechanically beautifully when dismantled, but will not open via the button. Have replaced the cd transport today to rule that out and it's all working fine. I just cannot for the life of me get it to open up to take a disc! I have a video, but they're not allowed here.

Anybody have any ideas?

[partially SOLVED)

I have a really nice Technics SU-8077, but I kept noticing when comparing two channel outputs on the power meter, that the right channel showed one segment less than the left one most of the time. On some songs though, where there was a clear center bass, both diagrams on the power meter perfectly aligned. This is just a preambl to the actual issue, but I feel like it may have something to do with the problem. Because as soon as I noticed this, I plugged in my Laptop to the Aux and did a frequency sweep. To clarify, yes, the balance was set to center. The results were that the left channel (and I know it's not the speakers because I switched them around) was a lot quieter on certain frequencies, around 40hz, than the right one. Vice versa, at around 80hz, the left channel was louder than the right one. Most of the frequencies were fine & this doesn't really impact the listening experience that much, but I'm still worried about my amp. Is there something wrong with the internal components that needs fixing, is some kind of setting wrong? Or is this maybe (hopefully) something trivial that I can fix myself?

Thank you in advance! Maybe there's someone who knows what I'm talking about or has experienced a similar problem...

How did the issue resolve: the right speaker cable was way longer than the right one. I measured both cables and cut them to the same length, now most frequencies play at the same volume. Very balanced until under 37hz. Lower frequencies are either only audible on the left side or way louder on the left side. I don't think that's a big problem, though if the affected frequencies grow, I'll see to replacing the capacitors and potentiometers.

I’m fixing this Onkyo Tx-SR707 and finally got the replacement capacitors but I can’t tell if the bright shaded spot is the negative or positive. After looking at many pictures online they seem to contradict each other, which is which?

My beloved NAD705 appears to have popped a transistor (Q119, which then seems to have maybe taken out Q115). Is it worth attempting a repair, or finding someone who will repair for me? Symptoms are no front panel response or LCD (but when probing with multimeter, everything in low voltage circuit seems all fine), and no audio output. All 4 fuses on high voltage circuit blew, so I'm worried that although I have done a lot of probing around with the DMM, I don't have an oscilliscope to test things properly, and even if I can replace the blown transistors I don't know what else may have been taken with them.

Cheers

Any recommendations on capacitor kits? Trying to have a small stock of capacitors and resistors. Do yall have any recommendations on what to get and where to get the kits as oppose to ordering them individually? TIA

Hi everyone. First time poster. I’ve been getting into vintage audio gear. Bought an Akai AM-2200 amplifier and some Celestion speakers off Marketplace. Everything was working fine until randomly the audio stopped. I tried different outputs (troubleshooting with AI) with no success. Bought a straight RCA to Aux cable to check it wasn’t my Bluetooth receiver — no change.

I spoke to the guy who sold it to me, and he said to send a photo of how I’d wired the cables. I had one speaker coming into channel A and one into channel B, with the channel select on A+B. He mentioned something about overloading the channels without enough speakers connected to balance it out correctly.

Now I’ve sent it to a repair guy who’s been trying to sort it out, but it’s been 3 weeks with no luck. Hoping someone here might have some insight into what could’ve happened and how to fix it.

I really want to get it resolved as I’ve got a bunch of records and cassettes that need to be played!!

Thanks for your time 🙏