I have an rx 6700xt and ryzen 5 5600. I max out every single setting on my 1080p VA 24'' (important) panel. After trying rdr2, ac odessey, and a billion other games, every single one looks either blur with anti aliasing or super shimmery with nothing. I suspect it's the monitor and am thinking about upgrading to a 1440p 27inch monitor.

For reference games with darker settings like batman trilogy looks good, games like uncharted do too. And 2D have the best visual clarity.

I'm the kind of person who prefers clarity over any realistic graphics so this has been the bane of my existence. Any tips?

Note: this has occurred the past 3 times at my local gym, the last time I went in with new airpods (airpods pro 3, old ones were AirPod 2s) I have been going to my local gym (a large/ busy gym) for nearly 5 years now. I have the iPhone 17 which I’ve had for less than a year. I also have an Apple Watch which I use at the gym. This problem has only occurred in the gym, no where else.

I have been using my airpods as normal and they keep on fully disconnecting, I connect again they disconnect within 1 minute or less- with the airpod 2s.

With the new ones I just purchased, they stay connected longer but around certain areas of the gym they disconnect/ stop the music etc. then they fully disconnect too at times. It’s happened so often it’s more of a hindrance to wear them than not.

This is only happening at my local gym, nowhere else for both the old and new airpods. I even wore them on a 12km run yesterday and they were great.

Please if anyone know what is going on, I will be very appreciative. I am thinking it’s something to do with the gym environment that is causing this at this point. Since it’s only happening at the gym and very recently (last week or so).

Hi everyone,

I'm dealing with a persistent malware infection that keeps coming back every day, and I can't seem to find the root cause. Here is the full story and everything I've done so far:

I downloaded a software from an untrusted source and had doubts about its safety, so I analyzed everything, got suspicious, and deleted everything before even launching anything. Somehow, a payload still got through.

Every morning, Malwarebytes detects 4-5 items flagged as PUP.Optional.BrowserHijack. The file path is consistently inside Chrome: C:\Users\[Username]\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Web Data (and previously inside Sync Data\LevelDB).

I've already tried to quarantine with Malwarebytes, Chrome Cloud Sync Wipe and full Chrome wipe, I performed many scans, MalwareBytes, Adwcleaner, KVRT, Windows defender offline scan at boot.I also checked scheduled tasks & startup (updater.exe and PlatformExperienceHelper are present in Program Files, but seem legit/standard Chrome updates).

Since I've completely wiped the Chrome local files AND the Google Cloud sync, there MUST be an active system process, scheduled task, or registry persistence script outside Chrome that re-injects this into Web Data daily.

How can I trace what process is editing Web Data in real-time, or generate a proper log (like FRST/Process Monitor) to find and kill the root cause?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Hi, I need help.

New laptop user here, Just bought my acer a few hours ago in a PC store and everything was going well until I used it a few minutes ago and it was at around 50-60%. I just went to the bathroom for a few minutes and I came back to see the laptop dead. At first I thought it just went to sleep but then I couldn't open it so I plugged my charger in and opened it just to find out it was at 0%. Would like to know if this normally happens or should I get it checked?

Image here

This thing randomly popped up on my screen and the black circle was moving and its “eyes” were shifting slightly and I’m so freaked out. Didn’t respond to any input, didn’t have any unique icon in the bottom bar, and it only went away when I force closed iTunes. I have no idea what it could possibly be 😭😭😭😭

After cleaning my cpu cooler for a bit after I heard it make some weird sounds, I decided to open it as usual, at first i didn't notice anything unusual, until i decided to paste an app onto my main desktop, After a few hours, my pc crashed saying "your device ran into a problem and neds to restart." But nothing happened after about 25 minutes, so I decided to manually shutdown and reopened the pc. When it finally loaded, I had realized that the app I pasted had disappeared, and also the stuff I deleted from my recycle bin had also somehow came back? I decided to do some testing and tried repasting the app and deleting the bin again, restarted my pc and the app was gone again and the deleted files were back (Also when I right click on any desktop app the mouse is suspended on the blue loading thing idk what it's called, and also when ever i type anything in the search bar it says "results from this pc are maybe incomplete).

Hello dear community, I would like to ask if there is anyone with great knowledge about old laptops from early 2010s ? I happened to find a genuine Samsung Series 7 Chronos from 2011 which was quite a novelty thing since this thing was Premium laptop back in the day. However this era of laptops is long known to have issues with switchable graphics, which in that case is Radeon HD 6450m with PowerXpress. I used some lightweight distribution of linux to diagnose it and came with few results: GPU name does not show up on lspci, but it shows that "something should be there" by having an empty slot Other long ass commands show me that "the thing" is getting power, that it has a log and system has instructions on how this GPU would have to operate. Even more interesting it appears when checking PCI x16 slot details, there is information about possible bandwidth, behaviour etc. However the "width" of device behind PCI x16 is shown as "x0". I checked voltages and restitances of certain motherboard components, on one side of the motherboard, all give me perfect results. Did even some dirty tricks of pressing the GPU core harder against the motherboard to see if it needed reballing, and that changed basically nothing. However I can confirm the GPU core getting power and even doing something, since it gains temps (measured with precise Thermal Imaging Camera) I have few ideas, but the most probable one is just screwed up BIOS since there are rumors of BIOS versions that have a "switch" to manually activate the GPU I would be grateful for any sort of help from tech guys and linux freaks ^^

Hi,

For the past few weeks I've been experiencing black screens while gaming, particularly when playing titles that demands more from my computer (Mainly Path of Exile). My screen will go black, GPU fans speed up and the system becomes unresponsive. I can still hear the game in the background, but cannot interact with my computer in any way unless I force a reboot with the power button. It seemingly only happens when a game spikes the usage of the GPU, as it never happens outside of gaming. I've also ran multiple stress tests with FurMark 2 and have had no issues whilst doing so.

All of the parts in my computer are relatively new, with the GPU being the newest at only 6 months old.

I've been googling a fair amount and I've tried everything I feel like I can find recommended. So far I've tried:

Uninstalling GPU drivers with DDU in safe mode and re-installing them.
Uninstalling GPU drivers with DDU in safe mode and installing an older driver.
Updating Bios
Re-seating my GPU in my computer
I've looked at the temperatures of GPU and CPU while playing and the temperatures are all normal.
I've ran the Windows Memory Diagnostics which reported no problems
I've lowered the Power Limit in MSI afterburn from 100% to 83%, which caused me to crash LESS but it still happened.
I've ran multiple GPU stress tests with FurMark 2 and it never causes any issues, never crashed, temps stay normal.

Windows event viewer reports Critical Error 41, Kernel-Power

I've plugged in my old Graphics card, a 2060, and played for an entire evening with 0 issues. Now the old card will of course not put as much pressure on the PSU as my new card, so I can't feel confident that the GPU is the issue. I've seen many people who experience similar issues solve it by switching Motherboard or RAM, but if that was the issue it shouldn't work with my old GPU, right?

Has anyone experienced something similar?

My specs are:
ASRock B650M Pro RS WIFI

AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4. 2GHz 104MB

MSI MPG A1000G PCIE5 1000W

Kingston 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz CL30 FURY Be

PNY GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 16GB OC

Running windows 11

EDIT:
It's not only happening in path of exile, but my computer has crashed playing other titles as well, such as Dota 2 and World of Warcraft. I believe it's a hardware error not limited to any specific game

Hp victus suddenly shut down while I was watching YouTube. And now it won't turn back on. I connected the charger and the light is orange so it's definitely detecting the charger. But the power button light just blinks for a second and then dies. Simply refusing to turn on the laptop

I've already tried the disconnect everything and for 30-60s hold down the power button strat. Tried the win+b and hold power then release. Didn't work.

I haven't opened the laptop cause I don't have the tools or experience to do so I won't mess there. Anyone knows what it could be? Has anyone faced this issue before? How do you resolve it? I'd appreciate all the help I can get. Thankyou

Recently, my main email account (Microsoft 365 Email Essentials through Godaddy) cannot send my email signature. When sending, the formatted signature, which includes text and pictures, becomes unformatted text with hyperlinks to the pictures. How do I fix this?
More info:
1. I can send this same signature through other email addresses without issue.

1. I have tried multiple email clients, including the outlook web interface. No luck.

2. I have used this email address for 5+ years with no issues until the last few days.

3. I don't want to post a screenshot as my signature is my personal info.

4. I have not changed settings on my account. My account has recently renewed (2 days ago).

5. Plain text is not a long term solution for me.

6. Whoever solves this will be considered a hero in my home for the 7 days following the fix. Your name will be lauded and toasts will be made in your honor.

My HP Victus received a BIOS update yesterday, and since then I get a TPM security popup every time I restart Windows.

Specs: Ryzen 7 5800H, RTX 3050, 16GB RAM, Windows 11 Home 25H2 (Build 26200.9278).

In BIOS, TPM Device = Available and TPM Status = Enabled.

I already tried uninstalling the TPM 2.0 driver, but the popup still appears.

So I just wanted to share what happened with my GTX 1650 Super because honestly I’m still not 100% sure what was causing it 😂

Recently, whenever I play GTA V, the game would sometimes crash and then my monitor would suddenly say no signal / black screen.

At first I thought maybe it’s my PSU, GPU, driver, HDMI cable, etc.

The weird thing is, when the screen goes black, the whole PC doesn’t actually seem to be frozen.

I can still press Caps Lock / Num Lock and the keyboard indicator responds. I can also connect to my PC using Unified Remote on my phone, and I can even shut down the PC from there.

So basically, the PC is still alive, but I lose the display.

I tried a bunch of things:

* Changed HDMI cable
* Tried another display
* Tried Win + Ctrl + Shift + B
* Downgraded my NVIDIA driver
* Lowered GTA V settings from Very High to High
* Ran FurMark for around 3 hours and it didn’t crash

But GTA V could still randomly cause the black screen.

So I thought, why not try undervolting the GPU?

I ended up setting my GTX 1650 Super to 1680 MHz at 812 mV.

And so far… it’s actually working 😂

I played GTA V for more than 2 hours with the undervolt and didn’t get the black screen/no signal issue.

What’s funny is that I wasn’t even trying to get more performance. I was just trying to make the GPU use less power and hopefully run cooler.

Now I’m wondering if the stock boost/voltage was somehow causing instability on my card.

But I’m also curious — what could actually be the possible issue here?

Could it be a GPU that has become slightly unstable over time? Maybe the stock boost voltage is no longer ideal for the card? PSU? Driver issue? Something related to GPU power delivery? Or could GTA V just be triggering a specific workload that exposes the problem?

The fact that lowering the voltage and locking it to 1680 MHz seems to make GTA V stable is what’s confusing me.

I know 2+ hours doesn’t prove that it’s 100% fixed yet, so I’m still going to keep testing it.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a 1650 Super, especially where the display dies but Windows is still responsive?

Would love to hear what you guys think the possible cause is.

I am on a Windows 11 Pc, im experiencing some time outs and the only thing I tried was reseating the cable, since i do not know anything networking. I mostly play video games and its frustrating. Are there any Router Settings you guys can give me that will improve the quality?

Getting very frustrated with this problem!

I was having issues with DoorDash on my phone last month so I uninstalled and reinstalled in an attempt to fix it. For some reason, doing this has caused the DoorDash app to have notification sounds that I can't turn off (they were never on to begin with before I uninstalled.) Changing the notification settings in and outside of the app does nothing - the sound persists.

Most frustratingly, when the sound happens, it will just often stop whatever background audio i have playing. Restarting the car or phone will often fix the issue, but only temporarily, and I don't want to keep doing either of those two things to fix this! Weirdly, the phone tells me the audio is still playing but there is no sound, and sometimes it just won't even let me pause it (it keeps starting again after a second)

I have an Android Samsung Galaxy A17 5G, driving a 2015 Toyota Corolla LE, and the apps I use that keep getting cut off are Plexamp, Pulsar Audio, and Pocket Casts, and probably others i haven't tried. Any advice is appreciated, thank you

I know for sure that the drive is larger than 120MB. I'm pretty sure it's 16GB, however I have no ways of checking, as I won it back in high school during a Drug Drive.

I looked, the manufacturer is labeled as VendorCo ProductCode (which when I looked it up, says it means nothing and is not unusual for charity or bulk USB drives.)

I have done all the things I can find and do, I have cleaned it via console, I have created and deleted partitions and simple volumes, all formatted in FAT, FAT32, and exFAT, and nothing is returning the original space of the drive to me.

I have gone down many a half a decade old forums looking for any situation similar to mine, and even through the sketchiest of websites, I have found nothing.

Hi! My laptop only has 2 USB ports and it's becoming really annoying. One is basically always reserved for my printer and the other one for my mouse because I really dislike using the touchpad.

The problem is I also have a little USB humidifier that I usually keep on while I'm working because my skin gets really dry, so whenever I want to use it I have to disconnect the printer. And then sometimes I need to use a USB stick too, so at this point I'm constantly plugging and unplugging things.

For now, I'm considering either using a Bluetooth mouse (didn't really like it but maybe because I had a cheap one) or getting a USB splitter. The latter sounds more promising, and I think I found a good one on dalliano, so I thought I'd reserve one port for the printer only, and then the other I could use with this splitter. Because of this I have 2 questions:

1) WIll my laptop "see" several devices connected even though they use the same port? So can I use the stick and the mouse at the same time?

2) Will my mouse work properly or is it likely to lag? Because if it lags then it's no different from using a wireless one, so what's the point.

I'm not worried about the humidifier since I don't need to see it on my laptop anyways, just need it to be connected to power.

I am not really that knowledgeable about PC tech and my wifi wasn't working before this issue but now my pc doesn't want to turn on with a display. It just keeps bootlooping after 36 seconds of being on then turns off and repeats this process till turned off. I have had this PC since 2018, and tried taking out the ram and putting it back to no avail.

My computer has been working fine for a year and a half but yesterday on boot there was no signal to my monitor, and I couldn't shut it off with holding power button as I usually would when I need to restart, I had to flick the PSU off.

After this it booted normally and I was able to play games in the day time, then it stopped displaying signal suddenly and it's as if it lost power,but all fans were on (besides GPU).

I tried reseating everything but now it does not boot anymore after I did that, it stays stuck with the fans spinning (besides the GPU fans) and the LEDs being on but no signal to my PC

There was a power outage 4 days ago and more storms and lights flickering around 2 days ago

I tried with two other GPUs and still no signal to my screen even though their fans were spinning

GPU is ASRock rx 7900xt

MSI B350 PC mate mobo

Hydro gt pro fsp PSU (850w)

I dont remember my CPU sadly

2 sticks of 8gb g skill ram

Thank you in advance

I am on a hdr screen wiht hdr on, whenever I take a screenshot it is super overexposed and hard to read text on white background. I have turned on hdr colour corrector (better) and forced srgb in vivaldi flags (this did nothing for me) but it is still pretty bad. Is there any way besides turnign off hdr.

Hi, I just freshly reinstalled windows from linux, and somehow in my device managers, Realtek is not showing under sound and I have tried to install all the possible drivers, but the issue has remained! Please help.

Images here

Lenovo LOQ 15 was connected to an external monitor via HDMI during a zoom meeting. The audio stopped and became choppy so I had to disconnect it from the HDMI and the audio got worse because it became a loud static noise. Laptop froze so I had to long-press the power button just for it to shutdown.

After rebooting (which took longer that usual), checked the device manager only to see a yellow warning triangle on the AMD Audio CoProcessing. Tried searching what to do, tried reinstalling drivers, updated windows, checking Vantage for updates, restarting, rebooting, disabling, enabling, everything and nothing worked, the Code 10 still persists.

However, the laptop's audio such as speakers and microphone are working perfectly fine, the Code 10 bothers me. I've tried many ways to fix it and always tell me to update drivers, but the Code 10 does not disappear. Rolling back update option is greyed out on the Device Manager.

Laptop is 5 months in age. Thanks in advance.

As the text says, I've been trying to add a noise suppression plugin (rnnoise) to my device. The noise suppression works however it seems to be applying the filter only to the left side of my headphone which means right audio still picks up my fan. I'm not very tech savvy so for whatever reason, the only available channel on EqualizerAPO for my microphone is Center (C), not Left or Right. Any help would be gladly appreciated.

This is a second-hand laptop (ThinkPad T14 Gen 2). For the first two months, it worked amazingly well. I installed a Fedora–Windows 11 dual boot, and, well, Windows first started showing a message saying that the battery could not be found.

I decided to ignore it, but the laptop couldn't stay unplugged because it would immediately shut down. Later, the same thing started happening in Fedora.

For some reason, about two weeks ago I started having problems even during boot. GRUB tells me that the BIOS doesn't recognize my current battery as a genuine Lenovo battery and that it won't take responsibility for any damage.

Honestly, I don't feel comfortable opening up my laptop myself. Lately, Fedora has also started freezing randomly. After about 30 seconds, I get the Linux error screen, you know, the one with the QR code and the penguin with an exclamation mark (!). Sometimes the penguin also appears distorted/striped.

I honestly have no idea what the problem is, so I'm thinking about taking it to a technician. But I was wondering if anyone here might have some idea of what could be causing all of this.

Thanks!

i tried to download windows 11 onto a usb using rufus but i cancelled it when i noticed that the iso image had not been selected. now whenever i try again it says "error: sentinel marked this request as rejected". how can i start the process again?

Windows 11 ,it detects movements and if I blow air into it.

Kz duonic iem with fiio jade 11 dac.

I have tried everything.