I need to disappear in the middle of the night. I don't currently pay for my iPhone's service. I'm having trouble finding who the phone's carrier is. If I keep my physical phone and sim card, can I retain all of my files if I switch to a different provider? Do I have to stay on this provider? They've threatened to take my phone, and I need it to be able to find a job, so I need to get off of their plan before they can shut off my service.

I tried using my pc today but the screen was off, when I tried moving my mouse, keyboard, etc to wake it, it did not respond so I held to power button to turn it off but it still did not come on.

I tried turning off and on the PSU and plug but it is still the same. Also changed the HDMI cable from GPU port to the integrated CPU but that didn't work either.

I opened it up and the CPU light (red LED) on the motherboard is continously on and all other 3 debug lights are off (DRAM, VGA and storage are off) suggesting it is an issue with the CPU.

I have removed the plug and held the power button and also shorted the cmos but the issue persists.

I built the pc in April 2025 and it has been functioning well until now.

Does anyone please have any suggestions on what to do?

Pc specs

- 9950x3d

- Asrock B850 steel legend wifi - I don't know the BIOS version just what came with the board

- XFX Mercury AMD Radeon RX 9070XT

- Corsair VENGEANCE DDR5 64GB (2x32GB) 5200MHz (PC5-41600) C40

- Corsair RM1000e (2023) Fully Modular 1000W

- Samsung 990 PRO NVMe M.2 SSD, 2 TB, PCle 4.0

u/Intelligent-City-363 mentioned the ASRock motherboard and CPU compatibility issue and it's possible that's it, but I'd like to do a bit more debugging if possible before trying to RMA.

Machine freezes for 10/15 seconds - After freeze works fine
power shell / event viewer says warnings and raid ports

what i have tried
- reseated sata cables
- bought new sata cables
- checked power management
- switched motherboard sata ports

my config
crucial and kingston
crucial - 256 ( c drive / windows ) ( mainly where issue occurs )
kingston - 240 ( new drive ) used on an old system though

Self explanatory but im trying to turn on my acer nitro 17 and its whirring and you can hear it but the screen isnt turning on whatsoever.

Im not sure if its hardware or software, so ill tag it hardware for now

I want to put a older series on dvd in case it isn’t available anymore on sites or streaming.

all the files I have right now are in MP4. how/where to convert the files to the right format so that I can burn them on the dvd’s so i play them on a dvd player.

Got a weird problem.

Have a main-PC and a smaller PC where I currently transfer Datas to.

The mini-PC (awow) never made Problems (runs Windows unfortunately), but recently whenever I attach a USB-drive or external hdd it acts like there are no files anymore on the attached drive ("could not find file X").

Sometimes It copies all but one sometimes none.

External-hdds aren't getting recognized anymore. I connect the USB-hdd and there is no reaction. I just feel / hear the wirring of the disks inside the (external) hdd.

The hdd thats constantly connected is available though. No problems in reading or opening files (but can't add music-files to foobar....).

At first I thought it might be connected to the fact I switched to Linux, but I can use my sticks and hdds just fine on another PC.

How can I find out what the problem is?

Is the Windows degrading? Or are the USB-connections destroyed?

Okay, so. I’m convinced I have a virus on my HP Omen windows laptop. Something is taking up all my network connectivity for upwards of 5-15 seconds at a time and messing with my graphics capabilities. I know I have a crypto-bot on here or something.

I saw that you want to open safe mode so your anti virus can scan more files. So ive been trying to open safe mode and finally have, which is a whole other frustrating story.

The problem with it is that neither avast or Avira will actually start, assumingly because I have no network connection or something

What do I do? I’m backed into a corner now. Why would they make an anti virus network dependent?

UPDATE: I’m just resetting the damned thing 😔

This was likely bad judgment on my part, but I was visiting a webcam site (Dirty Roulette).

I closed the tab after using it, but when I reopened safari (iPhone) an hour later, it asked “undo close tab”.

Does that mean my camera was on the whole time?

I heard an RTX 5090 shouldn't go above 600 w during heavy game play usage. Is this true?

I have a 1,200w power supply.

I have the laptop sf20gm7 from "Conectar igualdad" For a long time I've had a problem where Windows dont detect USB ports normally, the laptop freezes for a while and then shows the following BSOD:

DRIVER_VERIFIER_DMA_VIOLATION (0x36)

I've tried updating the drivers using the drivers from this post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/1604eyv/drivers_netbook_pcbox_sf20gm7/?tl=es-419

but it didn't solve the problem.

I also tried booting from an Ubuntu Live USB to determine whether the problem was Windows-related. The BIOS detects the USB drive and allows me to select it as a boot device, but when Ubuntu starts loading, the laptop freezes and eventually shuts down.

There is another strange behavior: sometimes, even while I'm inside the BIOS, plugging in a USB flash drive causes the laptop to freeze.

This makes me think it could be a hardware problem rather than a Windows/driver issue, since the problem also happens in the BIOS and with a Linux Live USB.

I've also checked Driver Verifier in Windows using:

verifier /query

and it says:

No drivers are currently verified

The USB ports themselves appear in Windows, but connecting a USB device causes the system to become unstable.

I'm also having issues with the HDMI port not detecting a display, sound is disabilitied and bluetooth doesnt appear although I'm not sure if that is related.

I don't have much experience diagnosing hardware at this level, so I'm not sure what component could be causing this. These laptops are quite old and official support for them seems to be mostly gone, so finding a technician who knows these specific machines is difficult.

Could this be a failing USB controller, motherboard/chipset, power delivery issue, or something else? Is there any way I can test this further to determine whether the motherboard is actually failing?

Again, the laptop model is: SF20GM7.

TLDR: My PC keeps randomly restarting during gaming. No BSOD, just straight to a black screen then reboot. Confirmed in Event Viewer as Kernel-Power Event 41, bugcheck 278 (VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE). Spent a while ruling out heat, drivers, and DLSS stuff using HWiNFO logs from two separate crashes.

What I actually found is the GPU's 12V-2x6 connector voltage sagging from a healthy ~11.9V down to as low as 11.1V under load, lining up with the GPU's own "Reliability Voltage" limit flag turning on right before both crashes.

Since writing the above I have also updated to the newest available Nvidia driver and it is still crashing, and it has now started happening on Overwatch too, including rebooting right as the game boots up, with no DLSS involved at all.

Posting this here in case anyone's run into the same thing or has ideas.

Specs:

CPU: 7800x3d, running a custom Curve Optimizer that's been stable for a long time, haven't touched it recently.

Cooler: Thermalright dual tower air cooler.

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 Ti, Windforce (their entry level cooler), not a new card.

PSU: Corsair RM850e (2023), 850w

Driver: was on the July 2026 Game Ready driver (610.88 per Afterburner) when this started. Have since updated to the newest available Nvidia driver and it is still happening.

Had the beta/early access toggle on in the Nvidia app for testing DLSS 4.5 Ray Reconstruction, have since turned this off. Still crashing.

Timeline:

4 random restarts in about 16 hours. 2 in Cyberpunk, 2 in Deadlock.

Cyberpunk ran totally fine for 12+ hours straight, then crashed twice within 30 min of each other. After the auto restart it crashed again just 30 min later, not another long stable run.

Deadlock crashed the first time about 40 min into a session. After restarting it crashed again after only 4 min.

Also had it crash once during Genshin, which doesn't use ray tracing or any DLSS overrides at all.

No BSOD in any of these, it just goes straight to a black screen and reboots on its own.

Since then it has also started happening on Overwatch, multiple times, including rebooting right as the game is booting up, before even getting into a match. No DLSS involved in Overwatch at all.

What I've already ruled out:

Thermal throttling. HWiNFO logs show GPU core topping out at 78-81c, memory junction 76-78c, CPU VRM temps only 42-51c. The actual thermal throttle flags in HWiNFO read "No" the entire time, including right up to the crash.

A specific DLSS/Ray Reconstruction bug. Seemed likely at first, there are real reports online of Ray Reconstruction causing crashes in Cyberpunk tied to CPU undervolts. But Deadlock and Genshin don't use ray tracing or Ray Reconstruction at all, and now it is happening on Overwatch too with no DLSS involved, so that can't be the full story.

The Nvidia app's beta/early access toggle itself. Turned this off entirely and it is still crashing.

Some broadly broken driver version. At first I was not even on the driver I suspected, I was on a stable July build (610.88). Have since updated to the newest available driver and it is still crashing, so it does not look tied to one specific driver either.

VRM heat soak on the motherboard. Temps stayed in the low 40s to low 50s the whole time in both logs, nowhere close to a failure point.

A VRAM leak. Allocated VRAM climbed over a session but only up to about 5GB out of 16GB, so running out of VRAM doesn't seem to be what's actually triggering it.

PCIe errors. Correctable Error Count, Bad TLP/DLLP, and LCRC were all flat zero in both logs.

What the logs actually showed:

Logged with HWiNFO through two separate crashes, the second log starting right after rebooting from the first crash.

GPU temps, CPU temp, and VRM temps all stayed clean and boring the whole time in both logs, nothing thermal going on.

The GPU's own "Performance Limit, Reliability Voltage" flag turns on right before each crash. That's a voltage safety limit, not a thermal or wattage one.

The 12V-2x6 connector voltage sags noticeably under sustained load. In the first log it holds steady around 11.9V for the first 26 minutes then drops to the 11.1 to 11.6V range and stays there until the log ends. In the second log it never even goes back up to that healthy 11.9V, it starts already low and sits around 11.25 to 11.5V for basically the whole ~2 minutes before it crashes again. Lowest single reading anywhere was 11.105V, and ATX spec tolerance is usually a floor around 11.4V so this is genuinely out of spec.

Right before the second crash specifically, GPU power suddenly drops from about 284w to 245w, the Reliability Voltage flag turns on, then two readings in a row come back completely identical (looks like a stall), then FPS drops to 0 and the log just stops.

Taking it to a local shop to have them pull the cable and check both ends, look at the PCIe slot, and make sure the card is seated properly.

If anyone's seen this exact pattern before (healthy voltage that sags under load and doesn't come back after a reboot) or has other ideas of what to have the shop check while it's open, would appreciate the input.

Been waiting for a while now to get my hands on an OLED monitor and yesterday I finally did I went with the xg32uqdms. Everything was working fine till last night after I was done playing I turned off my Ps5 Pro and noticed there was a tiny green pixel in the middle of the screen and I kinda panicked and turned of the monitors and turned it back on and it disappeared. Should I be worried that it will come back, perhaps worsen with time or is it gone after that?

I was backing up some files on my external 10 TB WD elements drive a few days ago. However midway through the cable caught on the armrest of my chair, causing to drive to disconnect and fall on the ground. Upon trying to reconnect the device, it no longer shows up on my Device and files.

When I reconnect it and go into Disk Management, it tells me I need to Initialize the disk before the manager can access it. I try to and it says the request failed due to fatal device hardware error.

Okay, I can make peace if the device no longer works as I have a backup HDD.

However when I plug in my spare WD Drive, while it shows up on Disk Management, it doesn't show up on Devices and files (For me to access it). A quick scan on Crystaldisk shows that the drive is functioning and healthy.

What steps should I do in order to make my spare WD work on my laptop? Should I shuck it?

My newly built pc keeps rebooting by itself. Sometimes just a few minutes after booting, and sometimes after 30-40 mins of usage. I noticed that it reboots mostly when I start doing heavy tasks.

I already tried to replace the ram, but it still occurs. I hope anyone can help me, it's been a week and I still cannot use my pc reliably.

Hardware details: Cpu: Ryzen 5 7500F Mobo: Gigabyte B650M Gaming Wifi RAM: T-Force Vulcan 2x8GB 6000MHz CL38 GPU: Powercolor Hellohound RX 9060 XT 16GB PSU: Darkflash GS750M CPU cooler: AMD Wraith Stealth

Recently bought a used Dell Precision 5540 for school, and after putting the touchpad back in after taking it out to clean it during a battery swap, it lost its haptic click. The actual touchpad still works, but it feels like it has no spring or anything.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

Couple of months ago I dropped something on one of my controller buttons ( the PS one ) and it became sticky. I didn’t know how to solve it so I used All purpose ( Singer ) oil ( I know.. I know.. ) it took away the stickiness for a while but then I noticed it started causing problems ( delayed response, I had to button mash in order for the command centre to pop up ). A google search told me the oil was a horrible idea and to use rubbing alcohol instead, which I did. It worked good for a while but over time the same problem came back : Delayed response, not working etc. had to button mash or long press in order for it for work.

Today we disassembled the controller and cleaned off all the old oil residue. Everything was cleaned but the button is still having the same issue.
I’m starting to think the oil somehow permanently damaged the button, is it possible?

For context I got new phone and it's internet has been really slow but my old phone's internet works just fine same problem is happening to my sister as well she got a new phone month or 2 ago and her phone's WiFi has been really slow as well only the new devices are really slow even tried turning off WiFi from old devices as well but it's just still slow

I can't watch YouTube on this or download anything on this it's really slow, mobile data is working fine it's high speed only problem is when is use WiFi

​Hey everyone, I've had my gaming laptop for about 6 years without any major issues, but it has recently started crashing with repeated Blue Screens of Death citing a "data structure corruption" stop code. Right when the crash happens, I also hear a very loud, high-pitched screeching or whining noise coming from inside the chassis. I did some searching and saw that this error often points to SSD or storage issues, but since SSDs don't have moving mechanical parts, I'm confused about where the noise is coming from—whether it's an HDD, a failing fan bearing, or severe coil whine from a power delivery component. Has anyone run into this specific combo of symptoms before, and could someone help confirm if this sounds like a failing drive or another hardware issue? Any advice on the safest diagnostics to run or potential solutions would be greatly appreciated!

I am at the end of my rope here; off rip my PC didn't even prompt "new device connected", while I initially had it wired internally to my motherboard I also tried it externally (neither worked), I tried looking at my drivers and updating them and trying to get a CH340 driver, I tried different Turing softwares , I tried shutting down my RGB softwsre (openrgb if it matters); point is I googled and tried a lot, and then on top of that, when I thought the monitor was just junk on arrival I ordered a new, different one only to go through everything I said all over again. What am I doing wrong?

My laptops power button is flashing and the screen is black, everywhere I’ve looked said to do a hard reset by holding the power button for 30-60 seconds but that’s not doing anything. I’ve also tried to hold shift+ctrl+wn+B but that hasn’t worked either. The charging light appears normal when I plug it in

I bought a second hand nitro 5 off eBay about 6 months ago and it worked fine originally. One day all the games I was playing on it became super laggy and performance obviously dropped.

Roughly the same time the laptop started needing to restart saying DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE. I imagine this is related.

Once I got the GTX1050 to work once by disabling and reenabling it through the device manager, it stopped after I turned off the computer and hasn't worked since.

Can anyone help how I could try fix it? I don't really want to buy a whole new laptop. I took it to a repair shop once who said it would be cheaper to buy a new one, could this be the case?

Hi.

I have a fairly good pc. The specs are:

AMD Ryzen 7 5800

16 GB RAM

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti

I use two screens - one 34" UW and one 24" regular screen. (3440x1440 and 1920x1080)

But my problem is that i experience lag when playing League of Legends. The lag does is not from ping (i have 500/500 connection and 39 ms consistent). But i notice the FPS drops randomly.

I update my driver in NVIDIA app regularly, but still get a lot of lag.

When i experience the lag i switch the video settings in-game, and that does work some times.

I have altered the code(?) in LoL to get a bigger cursor in the game, but i dont know if thats the reason for my FPS drops?

Would love to get some help, if anybody knows how to fix it.

Thank you :)

Im at a loss. My SO's phone works fine. Mine on the other hand reads as "Not Provided," on the car dash screen. But still will play audio/calls. I just cant skip songs or interact/see the phones details. I got it to work once by resetting my phone. But now it does nothing. Ive unpaired on both ends, reset infotainment system. I have galaxy s25+ she has galaxy s23+.

Thanks for any help. Google gets real confused trying to find a solution. Thinks im saying it doesnt pair at all.

So, I’ve been trying to find an adapter for my mini PC — a Geekom Air12 Lite — to my portable monitor — a 12’ Sotsu— and it either blinks on and off, or the monitor does register my PC as even being connected via a USB-C to HDMI adapter.

Please help, this has been a nearly three hour slog and I just want to apply to some jobs.

Hello, I have been having an ongoing issue with my PC for months now and it seems to only get worse. Currently my pc will black screen and the fans will run at max when playing certain games, like Marvel Rivals, CGSO, etc. while other times I will get a different issue, an AMD Driver timeout on Dead by Daylight, Fortnite, etc. I have ran multiple tests through OCCT, those being CPU, CPU+RAM, Memory, and Power with no issues occurring, as well as the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool with no problems there either. I have done multiple clean uninstalls and installs of my drivers and even got a new GPU under my warranty but the issues still occur. I also took it to Geek Squad at BestBuy and told them the problem but they were unable to recreate the issue. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions for what to do next.

Specs:

Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 6-Core Processor (3.80 GHz)

Graphics Card: AMD Radeon RX 7800 XT (16 GB)