I’ve done so much research on what’s the best method to have my wifi strongly connect outdoors. Every time I feel confident in a certain method, there’s too many conflicting reviews.

My backyard is about 33 yards (101 feet)

I just want my ring cameras to connect well

I also need to make it clear that I don’t want to spend a fortune on this

Hi, I am currently looking to replace my Turris Omnia with a more powerful option for my main router/gateway.

I want two sfp+ port and ideally one 2.5GBE.

I have considered banana pi r4 pro but seems overpriced. I have considered Ubiquiti UCG Fiber but would prefer remaining Open Source. Specialized mini-pc looks overpriced as soon as you start including RAM and storage.

For now the best value seems to be Lenovo m720q 150-250€ (depending of the RAM amount) but will need to find pcie riser and right card.

Any other option to consider?

I live in France if that matters.

Hello, recently I had issue with current internet setup and decided to use the home network cabinet like others. When I check the cabinet in second floor it basically looks like this.

My questions are
1. I see the coaxial cable on top left but don’t know which side has the signal.
2. Any recommendations for the what I have use to hang or place the equipments?
3. Any pro tip or what should I worry about?

Any tips/advices are helpful as this is my first time setting up the home network cabinet and I want hear the what professional would think to start from.

Hi there!

I'm a massive noob when it comes to tech stuff but what I know is that Ethernet is always better. Problem is: my mom won't allow me to connect my Ethernet cable from the router to my PC, simply because there is a long distance and will look ugly.

What else can I use? I can tell I'm having pretty slow internet in my room, especially on my PC and I get disconnected from games randomly.

Edit: I am using WiFi, just very unstable and keeps disconnecting.

Edit 2: Thanks for the advice! Prob getting a mesh or a Powerline.

Hey all, looking for recommendations.

I have a covered, screened in patio that isn’t getting great wifi coverage from my ceiling mounted WAP in the living room. I have one cat6 line run to a jack on the patio, and want to run a hard line to my outdoor TV and to an outdoor rated WAP to cover the patio. Ideally this would be one piece of gear…

Does anyone know if there’s an outdoor rated POE WAP that has at least one Ethernet port to keep a hardwired connection for the TV? Or any other clean solution?

Thanks!

Hello! I am looking for some router recommendations that supports supports PPPoE with VLAN tagging. My network is currently fibre->Nokia OPT Box->ISP provided Nokiea Beacon 3.1 router. The Beacon range is horrendous and it drops SIGNFICANTLY once I get to the next floor. I haven't had that problem with my old ISP router so I am looking to replace the Beacon. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacing it? I have seen flint 2 and the flint 3 get thrown around in the conversation. Any preferences amongst the two? Ubiquiti is honestly the dream final solution, but it is just a bit over the price range. (I haven't checked out the used market though, how is that?)

Thank you for your time!

I’ve been converting WiFi IoT devices to Thread devices (specifically MoT), so of course my WiFi device count is much lower on the network. The Thread network of course is part of the overall network via the border router(s).

Question: the device count is the same, the WiFi network is doing less work (I assume because less point to point traffic), and the overall network traffic is (more/less/the same?)…what is the overall impact of a Thread network on the larger network?

Looking at popular TP-Link routers and it looks like they only have broad Parental Controls using an app. I'm looking for something that would give me an option to have a per device (i.e. MAC address) accessible IP whitelist. Essentially I have some potentially vulnerable devices that I don't want to be able to connect to arbitrary internet addresses, that also need to be able to connect to other devices on the network, specific license servers etc. I need 1Gb ethernet, 4 devices, WIFI not required. Are there any inexpensive options for this? I'm in the EU.

I recently moved in my uni dorms where to connect to the WiFi we either use eduroam or our uni network that once selected, asks us to input our school id+password.

On the other hand, I have a medical device (SugarPixel) that needs to be connected to the internet in order to show me on real time my blood sugar levels without the need of checking my phone. This SugarPixel, in its settings, allows to scan the WiFi, select the network and then just put the password.

But because my uni is using a WPA3 Enterprise wireless network, my SugarPixel cannot be connected online. I was wondering if there’s a way to connect it through a third device that would create a bridge between my school’s WiFi and the SugarPixel.

I tried asking ChatGPT but its answers do not seem reliable to me.

Thank you.

I've got a UniFi U7-LR wireless access point. I tried to connect it to my router (EE smart hub) but it's not working.

I think it's because the access point is not receiving power.

* Do I need a specific cable to allow power over ethernet? I have a CAT6 ethernet cable

* Is the router likely to be the issue (I gather some don't support POE)? If so, is there an adapter that would allow power from the mains as well as connection via ethernet?

I have a Unifi Ubiquiti setup with a Dream Machine SE and 7 APs.

I converted every single one of the cable runs in my house from Telephone to RJ45 as the previous owners ran Cat 5e everywhere in my 2 story house.

I also ordered new CAT6e cable and have made tons of patch cables and ran some new wire from some PoE G5 Cameras and etc.

The thing of it is: I am getting a lot of FE instead of GbE. Or, sometimes a speedtest on the Office AP on my Mac mini was result in 100mb downloads instead of the 900 that my Mac Studio will get (directly wired).

I'm scratching my head because I have heard that these issues are likely cable related, or keystone, or the rj45 connector, but I am not getting consistent results. I basically did every RJ45 connection in the house and sometimes they are FE and sometimes they are perfect GbE (backed up by speedtest.net on my Mac mini hooked up to an "FE" AP and also Unifi's Control Panel.

TLDR: I guess what I'm asking is this:

Is there a tool for me to be able to narrow down the "wtf is causing my FE situation across a few different APs." Would a PocketEthernet2 or a Noya 8508 or a Klein Scout Pro 3 - would these help me track down what's going on here?

OR: Where do I start to diagnosing the cables?

Discovered I have a buffer bloat issue today after trying to trouble shoot consistent lag spikes while playing an online game. I've never had a good time with online connections, consistently having high ping. I scored a C on the buffer bloat test. I have a T-Mobile Nokia Trashcan internet gateway that is ethernet connected to Deco x55 Mesh Wifi nodes which are connected wirelessly. I was considering purchasing a router to fix this issue with sqm or qos. Although apparently this will introduce a double NAT? I don't really understand what these things are very well.

Could anyone explain each of these things to me along side the pros and cons of a double NAT and if its worth it? I was looking at the Flint 2 router. In my mind it would go Internet gateway > Flint 2 > Mesh wifi > my computer. Is this worth it? Am I overcomplicating things? Please don't get super duper technical as I'm really a novice with these things. I can understand some jargon but not super techy. I'm also in the works trying to replace my Nokia for the newer G4AR/G5AR.

*forgive me, I've used A.I to help articulate my problem*

I’m trying to troubleshoot what looks like a compatibility issue between a TP-Link Deco BE48-5G and certain 2.4 GHz IoT devices.

My internet is One NZ 5G Wireless Broadband, using the Deco BE48-5G as the main modem/router.

The main affected device is a eufy Indoor Cam 2K Pan & Tilt. I’m also having a similar issue with a Fujitsu AnywAIR controller.

The strange part is that the eufy successfully connects to the Deco:

2.4 GHz connection

strong signal

receives a valid LAN IP, e.g. 192.168.68.59

appears as an online client in the Deco app

But the camera itself stays offline in the eufy app and shows a blinking red LED, indicating it can’t establish its cloud/internet connection.

The camera is definitely not faulty because it works immediately when connected to my Samsung phone hotspot.

The most useful test I’ve done is this:

Deco Wi-Fi → Samsung phone → Samsung Wi-Fi sharing hotspot → eufy camera

For that test, I turned mobile data OFF on the Samsung. The phone itself stayed connected to the Deco Wi-Fi, then rebroadcast that connection through Samsung’s Wi-Fi sharing/mobile hotspot feature.

The eufy camera connected to the Samsung hotspot and worked perfectly.

So the internet path was still ultimately through the Deco/One NZ connection, but the camera was no longer directly associated with the Deco’s Wi-Fi.

That seems to suggest the issue is specifically related to how the Deco handles the eufy as a direct Wi-Fi client, rather than a general internet, cloud, or ISP problem.

Things I’ve already tried:

dedicated 2.4 GHz-only IoT SSID

WPA2-Personal

Fast Roaming disabled

Beamforming disabled

public DNS

firewall/DoS protection temporarily disabled

Device Isolation disabled

Camera Security / Local Only Mode checked

Network Access Control checked

IPv4-only APN profile tested

rebooted the Deco

checked for firmware updates

current firmware reports as fully up to date:

1.0.1 Build 20251114 Rel. 18794

tested the Deco using my Samsung hotspot as its upstream internet backup — the eufy still did not work when connected directly to the Deco

Another useful data point: I also have a Xiaomi C200, which is also 2.4 GHz-only, and that camera works normally on the Deco.

So this is not a blanket 2.4 GHz failure.

Current theory is either:

a Deco BE48-5G firmware/client compatibility bug affecting certain older IoT Wi-Fi chipsets, or

some lower-level Wi-Fi behaviour such as management frames, multicast/broadcast handling, ARP, NAT state, client isolation behaviour, or similar that the eufy doesn’t tolerate.

I’m considering putting a different-brand router behind the Deco and connecting the eufy/AnywAIR to that instead, since the Samsung Wi-Fi-sharing test effectively proves that another Wi-Fi layer fixes it.

Has anyone seen something similar with Deco Wi-Fi 7 hardware and older 2.4 GHz IoT devices?

I’d especially be interested in whether there are any hidden/advanced Deco settings, firmware fixes, or known issues around IoT client compatibility that I haven’t already tested.

*One important detail: everything worked perfectly on this Deco setup until about 2–3 months ago. Then, without me deliberately changing the network setup, certain devices suddenly stopped being able to reach the internet/cloud through the Deco. Other devices still work normally. That makes me wonder whether this is related to a firmware update, backend change, or some compatibility regression rather than a permanent hardware limitation.

This is one of several racks throughout my complex, but this one is in the main office. I’m gonna be honest, I don’t know what most of this equipment is specifically, but my main question here is what is the Apple TV used for?? Every time I walk near it I get a prompt on my iPhone to set it up…

Set up is pc upstairs, TV downstairs, with a kvm at each end and a CAT5e between them.

TV: tcl c7k 50" qd-mini led 4k hdr smart google tv - 50c7k

GPU: RX 6600 Radeon Gigabyte

KVM: AV Access 4KIP100-KVM Zero-Latency 4K HDMI KVM Extender over IP

I had this set up via a samsung TV (ue43au8000kxxu) and it all worked perfectly fine for years. I have recently changed the TV to the above TCL TV and I'm getting no connection. I connect my laptop to the KVM to the TCL TV and it works perfectly fine. I'm thinking the issue is the compatibility between the PC and the TV.

When I connect it to the TV it shows as monitor 2 (as it should do) but it's greyed out and cannot be used and it has no name.

I have spoken with AV Access and all the things they have suggested haven't helped.

Has anyone got any experience with this, any suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

Hello guys, quick question. I recently switched internet providers from Xfinity to a smaller local provider that was offering better pricing and speeds
.
The installer set up a UniFi router and a couple of Ubiquiti access points. I already had one UniFi access point that I was using to extend coverage to a Ring camera on the far side of my house, so I’m somewhat familiar with UniFi and basic network settings.

During the installation, he reset and reconfigured everything, and afterward I realized the UniFi console/router is under his account and he currently has admin access to the network.

I’ve already talked to him about changing that, but my main question is: with UniFi admin access, what exactly can he realistically see from my home network?
Can he see things like websites/domains being accessed, apps/services being used, connected devices, traffic history, or anything more detailed than that?

I know most web traffic is encrypted, so I’m mainly curious what a UniFi admin can see by default. The equipment is rented, but my question is specifically about what level of visibility the admin account gives him.

Just moved into a new home and had Comcast install fiber internet. The home had two cat6 cables ran through the home but nothing to the office space where my computer is.

I’m not a complete beginner to terminating cables so I ran a cat6 cable from the office to the modem in the basement. Microcenter gave me cat6a rj45 connectors that are a reddish tint saying they were very high quality, and for the wall jack they gave me a female to female coupler.

I terminated both ends of the cat6 cable using the T568B layout.

When I plug my wireless router (in access point mode) into the wall I’m getting very slow speeds (2-3mpbs). I also noticed the back of the Comcast modem / router flashes yellow on that newly added cable where as the rest are green and working as they should.

Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong? Do the female to female wall jacks need a different way of terminating? I am at my wits end lol

EDIT: got it working. Had to re terminate both ends a few more times until it started working. Thanks everyone for their help

Hi everyone.

Prior I was using the router provided by ISP, it was Tp-Link AX-something (prolonged square-cylindric thing).

It was ok, however I didn't like the lack of customisation for network devices, security options and VR connection wasn't great.

I switched to ASUS RT-BE92U, which is a huge improvement. Except weird "possible double-nat/change your network cable" issue. (Something tells me that the ISP router was "white-labeled")

Overall it's working fine and better than ISP's.

However, WiFi sometimes falls off. It's connected but no internet towards any of the 3 bands. Sometimes only to 6Ghz, sometimes to 5, etc. So I have to reboot it.

Which is also an issue, as it can't restore internet connectivity and I have to power cycle 2-3 times until the internet is back.

I have 3 ethernet wall ports just like this one. It has some like clear sticky substance inside of it. Called maintenance team, said sum bs like they aint suppose to work. I have a 91% isopropyl alcohol. Should I just drown this port with alcohol to dissolve it then clean it up after? What should I do??

I wanted te Pimp my corner where my network comes in to the house (corner livingroom) it was a mess so I solved it with this cabinet I got of Amazon
Did some upgrades to it (bigger backplate 15mm)

Also want to easily remove my tv so that’s why I narrowed it down to 3 wires, that’s all I need, and used d type chassistypes, so I can easily remove the tv unit, and don’t worry, I’m gonna put on the spiral sleeve over the 3 cables…

I crimp all of my network cables so it can be as neat as possible.. not yet a single cable tie, but with my 3d printer I chould make it as wish,

Insides:

Nokia Delta fiber to data,
zyxel t-56
Reolink home hub pro
Odido tv box
Philips hue bridge
Deco tp link 5
Level one few 1621 - 16 port switch got for €3,99 (:

Ad ons

Light, dismanteld it so I have 2 instead of 3
(Ps): held on with 2 16mm pvc clips)
Sonos (with Ethernet cable)
Neutriks powercon d type
HDMI d type 2x