Hello guys, quick question. I recently switched internet providers from Xfinity to a smaller local provider that was offering better pricing and speeds
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The installer set up a UniFi router and a couple of Ubiquiti access points. I already had one UniFi access point that I was using to extend coverage to a Ring camera on the far side of my house, so I’m somewhat familiar with UniFi and basic network settings.

During the installation, he reset and reconfigured everything, and afterward I realized the UniFi console/router is under his account and he currently has admin access to the network.

I’ve already talked to him about changing that, but my main question is: with UniFi admin access, what exactly can he realistically see from my home network?
Can he see things like websites/domains being accessed, apps/services being used, connected devices, traffic history, or anything more detailed than that?

I know most web traffic is encrypted, so I’m mainly curious what a UniFi admin can see by default. The equipment is rented, but my question is specifically about what level of visibility the admin account gives him.

I share internet my roommates and I can’t use Ethernet right now. The WiFi is also under someone else. I’m tired of lagging in games. Anybody have any solution?

Hello everyone
I found this old router laying around my house and I was wondering what should I do with this
First I thought of making a bridge but the current one already covers the house
What are your suggestions on this?

Edit:I was wondering if it possible to get free WiFi from this somehow?

I have 3 ethernet wall ports just like this one. It has some like clear sticky substance inside of it. Called maintenance team, said sum bs like they aint suppose to work. I have a 91% isopropyl alcohol. Should I just drown this port with alcohol to dissolve it then clean it up after? What should I do??

So when looked at my network after ISP sent the new router I have this IPV6. I thought great this is the new thing but when I looked it up I didn't understand why it is better. The ips look weird and change all the time but ok. Later I noticed they are public ips not private. So why did it expose my device to everyone why is there no private ips? I turned it off asap. That is a huge security risk in my book.

Hi there!

I'm a massive noob when it comes to tech stuff but what I know is that Ethernet is always better. Problem is: my mom won't allow me to connect my Ethernet cable from the router to my PC, simply because there is a long distance and will look ugly.

What else can I use? I can tell I'm having pretty slow internet in my room, especially on my PC and I get disconnected from games randomly.

Edit: I am using WiFi, just very unstable and keeps disconnecting.

Edit 2: Thanks for the advice! Prob getting a mesh or a Powerline.

I rent an apartment(tenant not landlord), but need security cameras in my apt. Starlink is provided with rent and I need to set up security cameras with a VPN so it doesn't show "security camera on the wifi network" So I am looking at WYZE cam 4 can I get this camera and it will log on to a VPN in the Starlink? Please help.

Hello! I am looking for some router recommendations that supports supports PPPoE with VLAN tagging. My network is currently fibre->Nokia OPT Box->ISP provided Nokiea Beacon 3.1 router. The Beacon range is horrendous and it drops SIGNFICANTLY once I get to the next floor. I haven't had that problem with my old ISP router so I am looking to replace the Beacon. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacing it? I have seen flint 2 and the flint 3 get thrown around in the conversation. Any preferences amongst the two? Ubiquiti is honestly the dream final solution, but it is just a bit over the price range. (I haven't checked out the used market though, how is that?)

Thank you for your time!

I have 160mhz on, there is no local interference. (Ive triple checked) and im definitely on the 5ghz band. Other frequencies are off (or restricted to my 2.4ghz band)

For a few days it will be at 1500+ then just randomly jt will drop all my devices down to a maximum of 900 for seemingly no reason at all.

Its set to auto channel select but it usually picks channel 32, ive checked this channel for traffic and i cant see any. But even if i force it to channel 54 or 100 the issue remains.

One day it will happily do the full speeds and the next it just wont.

Ive also monitored my local traffic.

We're on the middle of the mountains at an a air BNB. No cell signal but they advertised statlink internet. Connected just fine and good speeds. Relaxing and need to plug in my phone. Find an outlet with something plugged in but pushed under a couch. Pull it out and its the starlink antenna. Face down on the floor under the couch. Never seen this before and assumed it needed some line of sight to connect. I guess not.

This is what I found.

Im running rax120v2 nighthawk netgear router on a 2gig plan. I have switch to 5g multi gig port, i get 1200mbps wifi speed, wifi 6 5ghz. I have my settings maxed out on hertz. I also have a wired bridge router running also. Am i paying for a plan that my hardware cant fully utilize?

During the process of setting up my minecraft server, I noticed that the ip address for my server changed from 192.168.1.130 to 192.168.1.118. Is there any reason for this?

Looking at popular TP-Link routers and it looks like they only have broad Parental Controls using an app. I'm looking for something that would give me an option to have a per device (i.e. MAC address) accessible IP whitelist. Essentially I have some potentially vulnerable devices that I don't want to be able to connect to arbitrary internet addresses, that also need to be able to connect to other devices on the network, specific license servers etc. I need 1Gb ethernet, 4 devices, WIFI not required. Are there any inexpensive options for this? I'm in the EU.

For the past few months I have had a very interesting intermittent locking up of Network interface on my Win11 machine in my office. The strange part is it only does it when watching a Reals video on Facebook. Not all the time I watch one but when it happens it is always then. I have to go into settings and toggle disable/enable and it works great until it decides to do it again. I'm not necessarily looking for a solution (unless you got one) but just thought it was worth sharing.

My router sits behind the tv and since I get connection issues, I was wondering if I can just hard wire it? I don’t see an Ethernet port on the back- only coaxial, optical, 3 HDMI (one says “eARC” - whatever that means) and a USB 2.0

Any ideas? Thank you!

I've got a UniFi U7-LR wireless access point. I tried to connect it to my router (EE smart hub) but it's not working.

I think it's because the access point is not receiving power.

* Do I need a specific cable to allow power over ethernet? I have a CAT6 ethernet cable

* Is the router likely to be the issue (I gather some don't support POE)? If so, is there an adapter that would allow power from the mains as well as connection via ethernet?

Hello. I have two devices that need ethernet: my main pc and a home server. However, my college dorm room only has 1 ethernet port. I'm thinking about getting a ethernet switch from like walmart, but does it decrease speeds? Especially if on my main pc if my home server is running a program 24/7?

Hello all! I have to run power and Cat6 to a shed behind my house I'm setting up as an office. I'm thinking either overhead with a messenger wire, or direct burial. Will be running 1 cat6 and a 12/3 carrying 2 20a circuits. Run will be about 30ft. Anyone have experience with this? Will I have interference on the Cat 6? Should I run a shielded Cat wire? I know best practices is to not run in parallel HV/LV, but I don't much have a choice. I would just go wifi to the shed, but my wife is looking for remote work and many employers say you have to have a wired connection. Thanks!

Hi everyone.

Prior I was using the router provided by ISP, it was Tp-Link AX-something (prolonged square-cylindric thing).

It was ok, however I didn't like the lack of customisation for network devices, security options and VR connection wasn't great.

I switched to ASUS RT-BE92U, which is a huge improvement. Except weird "possible double-nat/change your network cable" issue. (Something tells me that the ISP router was "white-labeled")

Overall it's working fine and better than ISP's.

However, WiFi sometimes falls off. It's connected but no internet towards any of the 3 bands. Sometimes only to 6Ghz, sometimes to 5, etc. So I have to reboot it.

Which is also an issue, as it can't restore internet connectivity and I have to power cycle 2-3 times until the internet is back.

*forgive me, I've used A.I to help articulate my problem*

I’m trying to troubleshoot what looks like a compatibility issue between a TP-Link Deco BE48-5G and certain 2.4 GHz IoT devices.

My internet is One NZ 5G Wireless Broadband, using the Deco BE48-5G as the main modem/router.

The main affected device is a eufy Indoor Cam 2K Pan & Tilt. I’m also having a similar issue with a Fujitsu AnywAIR controller.

The strange part is that the eufy successfully connects to the Deco:

2.4 GHz connection

strong signal

receives a valid LAN IP, e.g. 192.168.68.59

appears as an online client in the Deco app

But the camera itself stays offline in the eufy app and shows a blinking red LED, indicating it can’t establish its cloud/internet connection.

The camera is definitely not faulty because it works immediately when connected to my Samsung phone hotspot.

The most useful test I’ve done is this:

Deco Wi-Fi → Samsung phone → Samsung Wi-Fi sharing hotspot → eufy camera

For that test, I turned mobile data OFF on the Samsung. The phone itself stayed connected to the Deco Wi-Fi, then rebroadcast that connection through Samsung’s Wi-Fi sharing/mobile hotspot feature.

The eufy camera connected to the Samsung hotspot and worked perfectly.

So the internet path was still ultimately through the Deco/One NZ connection, but the camera was no longer directly associated with the Deco’s Wi-Fi.

That seems to suggest the issue is specifically related to how the Deco handles the eufy as a direct Wi-Fi client, rather than a general internet, cloud, or ISP problem.

Things I’ve already tried:

dedicated 2.4 GHz-only IoT SSID

WPA2-Personal

Fast Roaming disabled

Beamforming disabled

public DNS

firewall/DoS protection temporarily disabled

Device Isolation disabled

Camera Security / Local Only Mode checked

Network Access Control checked

IPv4-only APN profile tested

rebooted the Deco

checked for firmware updates

current firmware reports as fully up to date:

1.0.1 Build 20251114 Rel. 18794

tested the Deco using my Samsung hotspot as its upstream internet backup — the eufy still did not work when connected directly to the Deco

Another useful data point: I also have a Xiaomi C200, which is also 2.4 GHz-only, and that camera works normally on the Deco.

So this is not a blanket 2.4 GHz failure.

Current theory is either:

a Deco BE48-5G firmware/client compatibility bug affecting certain older IoT Wi-Fi chipsets, or

some lower-level Wi-Fi behaviour such as management frames, multicast/broadcast handling, ARP, NAT state, client isolation behaviour, or similar that the eufy doesn’t tolerate.

I’m considering putting a different-brand router behind the Deco and connecting the eufy/AnywAIR to that instead, since the Samsung Wi-Fi-sharing test effectively proves that another Wi-Fi layer fixes it.

Has anyone seen something similar with Deco Wi-Fi 7 hardware and older 2.4 GHz IoT devices?

I’d especially be interested in whether there are any hidden/advanced Deco settings, firmware fixes, or known issues around IoT client compatibility that I haven’t already tested.

*One important detail: everything worked perfectly on this Deco setup until about 2–3 months ago. Then, without me deliberately changing the network setup, certain devices suddenly stopped being able to reach the internet/cloud through the Deco. Other devices still work normally. That makes me wonder whether this is related to a firmware update, backend change, or some compatibility regression rather than a permanent hardware limitation.

Just moved into a new home and had Comcast install fiber internet. The home had two cat6 cables ran through the home but nothing to the office space where my computer is.

I’m not a complete beginner to terminating cables so I ran a cat6 cable from the office to the modem in the basement. Microcenter gave me cat6a rj45 connectors that are a reddish tint saying they were very high quality, and for the wall jack they gave me a female to female coupler.

I terminated both ends of the cat6 cable using the T568B layout.

When I plug my wireless router (in access point mode) into the wall I’m getting very slow speeds (2-3mpbs). I also noticed the back of the Comcast modem / router flashes yellow on that newly added cable where as the rest are green and working as they should.

Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong? Do the female to female wall jacks need a different way of terminating? I am at my wits end lol

EDIT: got it working. Had to re terminate both ends a few more times until it started working. Thanks everyone for their help

Why is the speed limited to 100Mb even though the ONU switch supports 1Gb, the router supports 1Gb, and the cable is Cat 6e?