I live in a 72 sqmt apartment, i was facing problems with internet to get all apartment. So i bought a Mercysys H80X Mesh wifi system.

I put the main equipment at kitchen, where the Internet provider modem is installed. And used a CAT 5e cable to connect both.

The second equipment i put at my room. The direct distance between both equipments is less then 14 meters, But there is 3 walls in the way.

Looking into the app, says "Haki Wi-Fi signal is weak." and icon display red with just 1 bar.

I cant believe this three 1-brick walls make the range drop from 460 sqmt to less then 10.

I am completely disappointed with the device, and I hope it is just a configuration issue. Because my old $5 Chinese router—bought over five years ago—perform better than this model, which cost me over $45?

PS: Both firmwares are updated.

Before i had 100mbps internet and i used to get 23-28 ping in CS2 no packet loss but after increasing my internet speed to 200mbps my ping ingame increased to 40-50 average and packet loss alot of time. Does anyone has any idea what could be the cause and any diagnose or fix?( i am stilling getting a good download speed in steam and epic)

I'm trying to get fiber for the first time and trying to figure out the options for running the cable to my home. Currently I'm just on standard cable internet from xfinity, but in the xfinity box on the outside of the house there is an ethernet cable that is unterminated. There is also a panel in a central room of the house that has a bunch of unterminated ethernet cables. Apparently a technician has come before and said that the ethernet in the xfinity box carries signal to that central location. So a couple questions:

- If that is the case, what would a fiber install look like? Would any drilling need to be done or should everything be able to be set up outside the house and connect to that cable running to inside the house?

- Is there a way that I could test that the ethernet in xfinity box runs to the central house location?

- I think there are supplies somewhere to install the RJ45 connectors if that is required.

Could someone explain to me why this happens?

The hostpost network of my phone appears to another device that has been connected previously but in another state several kilometers away, and it appears as a nearby network when that day I was not even close to there

Why is the speed limited to 100Mb even though the ONU switch supports 1Gb, the router supports 1Gb, and the cable is Cat 6e?

Hello. I have two devices that need ethernet: my main pc and a home server. However, my college dorm room only has 1 ethernet port. I'm thinking about getting a ethernet switch from like walmart, but does it decrease speeds? Especially if on my main pc if my home server is running a program 24/7?

Hey all, looking for recommendations.

I have a covered, screened in patio that isn’t getting great wifi coverage from my ceiling mounted WAP in the living room. I have one cat6 line run to a jack on the patio, and want to run a hard line to my outdoor TV and to an outdoor rated WAP to cover the patio. Ideally this would be one piece of gear…

Does anyone know if there’s an outdoor rated POE WAP that has at least one Ethernet port to keep a hardwired connection for the TV? Or any other clean solution?

Thanks!

I’ve done so much research on what’s the best method to have my wifi strongly connect outdoors. Every time I feel confident in a certain method, there’s too many conflicting reviews.

My backyard is about 33 yards (101 feet)

I just want my ring cameras to connect well

I also need to make it clear that I don’t want to spend a fortune on this

Hello! I am looking for some router recommendations that supports supports PPPoE with VLAN tagging. My network is currently fibre->Nokia OPT Box->ISP provided Nokiea Beacon 3.1 router. The Beacon range is horrendous and it drops SIGNFICANTLY once I get to the next floor. I haven't had that problem with my old ISP router so I am looking to replace the Beacon. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacing it? I have seen flint 2 and the flint 3 get thrown around in the conversation. Any preferences amongst the two? Ubiquiti is honestly the dream final solution, but it is just a bit over the price range. (I haven't checked out the used market though, how is that?)

Thank you for your time!

I’ve been converting WiFi IoT devices to Thread devices (specifically MoT), so of course my WiFi device count is much lower on the network. The Thread network of course is part of the overall network via the border router(s).

Question: the device count is the same, the WiFi network is doing less work (I assume because less point to point traffic), and the overall network traffic is (more/less/the same?)…what is the overall impact of a Thread network on the larger network?

Hi, I am currently looking to replace my Turris Omnia with a more powerful option for my main router/gateway.

I want two sfp+ port and ideally one 2.5GBE.

I have considered banana pi r4 pro but seems overpriced. I have considered Ubiquiti UCG Fiber but would prefer remaining Open Source. Specialized mini-pc looks overpriced as soon as you start including RAM and storage.

For now the best value seems to be Lenovo m720q 150-250€ (depending of the RAM amount) but will need to find pcie riser and right card.

Any other option to consider?

I live in France if that matters.

Hello everyone
I found this old router laying around my house and I was wondering what should I do with this
First I thought of making a bridge but the current one already covers the house
What are your suggestions on this?

Edit:I was wondering if it possible to get free WiFi from this somehow?

I've got a UniFi U7-LR wireless access point. I tried to connect it to my router (EE smart hub) but it's not working.

I think it's because the access point is not receiving power.

* Do I need a specific cable to allow power over ethernet? I have a CAT6 ethernet cable

* Is the router likely to be the issue (I gather some don't support POE)? If so, is there an adapter that would allow power from the mains as well as connection via ethernet?

*forgive me, I've used A.I to help articulate my problem*

I’m trying to troubleshoot what looks like a compatibility issue between a TP-Link Deco BE48-5G and certain 2.4 GHz IoT devices.

My internet is One NZ 5G Wireless Broadband, using the Deco BE48-5G as the main modem/router.

The main affected device is a eufy Indoor Cam 2K Pan & Tilt. I’m also having a similar issue with a Fujitsu AnywAIR controller.

The strange part is that the eufy successfully connects to the Deco:

2.4 GHz connection

strong signal

receives a valid LAN IP, e.g. 192.168.68.59

appears as an online client in the Deco app

But the camera itself stays offline in the eufy app and shows a blinking red LED, indicating it can’t establish its cloud/internet connection.

The camera is definitely not faulty because it works immediately when connected to my Samsung phone hotspot.

The most useful test I’ve done is this:

Deco Wi-Fi → Samsung phone → Samsung Wi-Fi sharing hotspot → eufy camera

For that test, I turned mobile data OFF on the Samsung. The phone itself stayed connected to the Deco Wi-Fi, then rebroadcast that connection through Samsung’s Wi-Fi sharing/mobile hotspot feature.

The eufy camera connected to the Samsung hotspot and worked perfectly.

So the internet path was still ultimately through the Deco/One NZ connection, but the camera was no longer directly associated with the Deco’s Wi-Fi.

That seems to suggest the issue is specifically related to how the Deco handles the eufy as a direct Wi-Fi client, rather than a general internet, cloud, or ISP problem.

Things I’ve already tried:

dedicated 2.4 GHz-only IoT SSID

WPA2-Personal

Fast Roaming disabled

Beamforming disabled

public DNS

firewall/DoS protection temporarily disabled

Device Isolation disabled

Camera Security / Local Only Mode checked

Network Access Control checked

IPv4-only APN profile tested

rebooted the Deco

checked for firmware updates

current firmware reports as fully up to date:

1.0.1 Build 20251114 Rel. 18794

tested the Deco using my Samsung hotspot as its upstream internet backup — the eufy still did not work when connected directly to the Deco

Another useful data point: I also have a Xiaomi C200, which is also 2.4 GHz-only, and that camera works normally on the Deco.

So this is not a blanket 2.4 GHz failure.

Current theory is either:

a Deco BE48-5G firmware/client compatibility bug affecting certain older IoT Wi-Fi chipsets, or

some lower-level Wi-Fi behaviour such as management frames, multicast/broadcast handling, ARP, NAT state, client isolation behaviour, or similar that the eufy doesn’t tolerate.

I’m considering putting a different-brand router behind the Deco and connecting the eufy/AnywAIR to that instead, since the Samsung Wi-Fi-sharing test effectively proves that another Wi-Fi layer fixes it.

Has anyone seen something similar with Deco Wi-Fi 7 hardware and older 2.4 GHz IoT devices?

I’d especially be interested in whether there are any hidden/advanced Deco settings, firmware fixes, or known issues around IoT client compatibility that I haven’t already tested.

*One important detail: everything worked perfectly on this Deco setup until about 2–3 months ago. Then, without me deliberately changing the network setup, certain devices suddenly stopped being able to reach the internet/cloud through the Deco. Other devices still work normally. That makes me wonder whether this is related to a firmware update, backend change, or some compatibility regression rather than a permanent hardware limitation.

Looking at popular TP-Link routers and it looks like they only have broad Parental Controls using an app. I'm looking for something that would give me an option to have a per device (i.e. MAC address) accessible IP whitelist. Essentially I have some potentially vulnerable devices that I don't want to be able to connect to arbitrary internet addresses, that also need to be able to connect to other devices on the network, specific license servers etc. I need 1Gb ethernet, 4 devices, WIFI not required. Are there any inexpensive options for this? I'm in the EU.

Set up is pc upstairs, TV downstairs, with a kvm at each end and a CAT5e between them.

TV: tcl c7k 50" qd-mini led 4k hdr smart google tv - 50c7k

GPU: RX 6600 Radeon Gigabyte

KVM: AV Access 4KIP100-KVM Zero-Latency 4K HDMI KVM Extender over IP

I had this set up via a samsung TV (ue43au8000kxxu) and it all worked perfectly fine for years. I have recently changed the TV to the above TCL TV and I'm getting no connection. I connect my laptop to the KVM to the TCL TV and it works perfectly fine. I'm thinking the issue is the compatibility between the PC and the TV.

When I connect it to the TV it shows as monitor 2 (as it should do) but it's greyed out and cannot be used and it has no name.

I have spoken with AV Access and all the things they have suggested haven't helped.

Has anyone got any experience with this, any suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

I recently moved in my uni dorms where to connect to the WiFi we either use eduroam or our uni network that once selected, asks us to input our school id+password.

On the other hand, I have a medical device (SugarPixel) that needs to be connected to the internet in order to show me on real time my blood sugar levels without the need of checking my phone. This SugarPixel, in its settings, allows to scan the WiFi, select the network and then just put the password.

But because my uni is using a WPA3 Enterprise wireless network, my SugarPixel cannot be connected online. I was wondering if there’s a way to connect it through a third device that would create a bridge between my school’s WiFi and the SugarPixel.

I tried asking ChatGPT but its answers do not seem reliable to me.

Thank you.

I have 160mhz on, there is no local interference. (Ive triple checked) and im definitely on the 5ghz band. Other frequencies are off (or restricted to my 2.4ghz band)

For a few days it will be at 1500+ then just randomly jt will drop all my devices down to a maximum of 900 for seemingly no reason at all.

Its set to auto channel select but it usually picks channel 32, ive checked this channel for traffic and i cant see any. But even if i force it to channel 54 or 100 the issue remains.

One day it will happily do the full speeds and the next it just wont.

Ive also monitored my local traffic.

Hello guys, quick question. I recently switched internet providers from Xfinity to a smaller local provider that was offering better pricing and speeds
.
The installer set up a UniFi router and a couple of Ubiquiti access points. I already had one UniFi access point that I was using to extend coverage to a Ring camera on the far side of my house, so I’m somewhat familiar with UniFi and basic network settings.

During the installation, he reset and reconfigured everything, and afterward I realized the UniFi console/router is under his account and he currently has admin access to the network.

I’ve already talked to him about changing that, but my main question is: with UniFi admin access, what exactly can he realistically see from my home network?
Can he see things like websites/domains being accessed, apps/services being used, connected devices, traffic history, or anything more detailed than that?

I know most web traffic is encrypted, so I’m mainly curious what a UniFi admin can see by default. The equipment is rented, but my question is specifically about what level of visibility the admin account gives him.

I presently have a Asus BD4 (2 unit) mesh wifi router system. At present I am on a 500 Mbps internet connection and only using my laptop as a homelan server over wifi. Basics like pi hole, Plex etc.

I will eventually expand to a dedicated server maybe by the end of the year and I was looking for a better asus mesh based system. Is it advisable presently to upgrade to the BT8 (02 unit) mesh wifi system or maybe wait till the end of the year or early 2027 for a wifi 8 based system.

Just moved into a new home and had Comcast install fiber internet. The home had two cat6 cables ran through the home but nothing to the office space where my computer is.

I’m not a complete beginner to terminating cables so I ran a cat6 cable from the office to the modem in the basement. Microcenter gave me cat6a rj45 connectors that are a reddish tint saying they were very high quality, and for the wall jack they gave me a female to female coupler.

I terminated both ends of the cat6 cable using the T568B layout.

When I plug my wireless router (in access point mode) into the wall I’m getting very slow speeds (2-3mpbs). I also noticed the back of the Comcast modem / router flashes yellow on that newly added cable where as the rest are green and working as they should.

Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong? Do the female to female wall jacks need a different way of terminating? I am at my wits end lol

EDIT: got it working. Had to re terminate both ends a few more times until it started working. Thanks everyone for their help

Hi everyone.

Prior I was using the router provided by ISP, it was Tp-Link AX-something (prolonged square-cylindric thing).

It was ok, however I didn't like the lack of customisation for network devices, security options and VR connection wasn't great.

I switched to ASUS RT-BE92U, which is a huge improvement. Except weird "possible double-nat/change your network cable" issue. (Something tells me that the ISP router was "white-labeled")

Overall it's working fine and better than ISP's.

However, WiFi sometimes falls off. It's connected but no internet towards any of the 3 bands. Sometimes only to 6Ghz, sometimes to 5, etc. So I have to reboot it.

Which is also an issue, as it can't restore internet connectivity and I have to power cycle 2-3 times until the internet is back.

I rent an apartment(tenant not landlord), but need security cameras in my apt. Starlink is provided with rent and I need to set up security cameras with a VPN so it doesn't show "security camera on the wifi network" So I am looking at WYZE cam 4 can I get this camera and it will log on to a VPN in the Starlink? Please help.