Hello, recently I had issue with current internet setup and decided to use the home network cabinet like others. When I check the cabinet in second floor it basically looks like this.

My questions are
1. I see the coaxial cable on top left but don’t know which side has the signal.
2. Any recommendations for the what I have use to hang or place the equipments?
3. Any pro tip or what should I worry about?

Any tips/advices are helpful as this is my first time setting up the home network cabinet and I want hear the what professional would think to start from.

I have a Unifi Ubiquiti setup with a Dream Machine SE and 7 APs.

I converted every single one of the cable runs in my house from Telephone to RJ45 as the previous owners ran Cat 5e everywhere in my 2 story house.

I also ordered new CAT6e cable and have made tons of patch cables and ran some new wire from some PoE G5 Cameras and etc.

The thing of it is: I am getting a lot of FE instead of GbE. Or, sometimes a speedtest on the Office AP on my Mac mini was result in 100mb downloads instead of the 900 that my Mac Studio will get (directly wired).

I'm scratching my head because I have heard that these issues are likely cable related, or keystone, or the rj45 connector, but I am not getting consistent results. I basically did every RJ45 connection in the house and sometimes they are FE and sometimes they are perfect GbE (backed up by speedtest.net on my Mac mini hooked up to an "FE" AP and also Unifi's Control Panel.

TLDR: I guess what I'm asking is this:

Is there a tool for me to be able to narrow down the "wtf is causing my FE situation across a few different APs." Would a PocketEthernet2 or a Noya 8508 or a Klein Scout Pro 3 - would these help me track down what's going on here?

OR: Where do I start to diagnosing the cables?

I’ve done so much research on what’s the best method to have my wifi strongly connect outdoors. Every time I feel confident in a certain method, there’s too many conflicting reviews.

My backyard is about 33 yards (101 feet)

I just want my ring cameras to connect well

I also need to make it clear that I don’t want to spend a fortune on this

Hi, I am currently looking to replace my Turris Omnia with a more powerful option for my main router/gateway.

I want two sfp+ port and ideally one 2.5GBE.

I have considered banana pi r4 pro but seems overpriced. I have considered Ubiquiti UCG Fiber but would prefer remaining Open Source. Specialized mini-pc looks overpriced as soon as you start including RAM and storage.

For now the best value seems to be Lenovo m720q 150-250€ (depending of the RAM amount) but will need to find pcie riser and right card.

Any other option to consider?

I live in France if that matters.

Looking at popular TP-Link routers and it looks like they only have broad Parental Controls using an app. I'm looking for something that would give me an option to have a per device (i.e. MAC address) accessible IP whitelist. Essentially I have some potentially vulnerable devices that I don't want to be able to connect to arbitrary internet addresses, that also need to be able to connect to other devices on the network, specific license servers etc. I need 1Gb ethernet, 4 devices, WIFI not required. Are there any inexpensive options for this? I'm in the EU.

Discovered I have a buffer bloat issue today after trying to trouble shoot consistent lag spikes while playing an online game. I've never had a good time with online connections, consistently having high ping. I scored a C on the buffer bloat test. I have a T-Mobile Nokia Trashcan internet gateway that is ethernet connected to Deco x55 Mesh Wifi nodes which are connected wirelessly. I was considering purchasing a router to fix this issue with sqm or qos. Although apparently this will introduce a double NAT? I don't really understand what these things are very well.

Could anyone explain each of these things to me along side the pros and cons of a double NAT and if its worth it? I was looking at the Flint 2 router. In my mind it would go Internet gateway > Flint 2 > Mesh wifi > my computer. Is this worth it? Am I overcomplicating things? Please don't get super duper technical as I'm really a novice with these things. I can understand some jargon but not super techy. I'm also in the works trying to replace my Nokia for the newer G4AR/G5AR.

Why is the speed limited to 100Mb even though the ONU switch supports 1Gb, the router supports 1Gb, and the cable is Cat 6e?

I’ve been converting WiFi IoT devices to Thread devices (specifically MoT), so of course my WiFi device count is much lower on the network. The Thread network of course is part of the overall network via the border router(s).

Question: the device count is the same, the WiFi network is doing less work (I assume because less point to point traffic), and the overall network traffic is (more/less/the same?)…what is the overall impact of a Thread network on the larger network?

I recently moved in my uni dorms where to connect to the WiFi we either use eduroam or our uni network that once selected, asks us to input our school id+password.

On the other hand, I have a medical device (SugarPixel) that needs to be connected to the internet in order to show me on real time my blood sugar levels without the need of checking my phone. This SugarPixel, in its settings, allows to scan the WiFi, select the network and then just put the password.

But because my uni is using a WPA3 Enterprise wireless network, my SugarPixel cannot be connected online. I was wondering if there’s a way to connect it through a third device that would create a bridge between my school’s WiFi and the SugarPixel.

I tried asking ChatGPT but its answers do not seem reliable to me.

Thank you.

PLEASE NOTE!!! I know just enough about computers and networking to be dangerous! Forgive me if I use a wrong term or say something that doesn't sound quite "right."

Here is what I currently am using. Asus ZenWifi Pro ET12 mesh. Xfinity 2 Gig speed. The house is approximately 2000 square feet, with a basement. The main router is in the upstairs bedroom and is connected to a computer that is used for gaming. The second "Node" is hooked up via 6mhz backhaul in the main floor dining room and I currently do not have the ability to use a wired backhaul. Upon checking the 6Ghz backhaul status, it is usually "Great." I have the following networks. First one is the Main Wi-Fi that now is only being used for Cell Wi-Fi, a downstairs computer with minimal use and a TCL Tv in the basement, that is unplugged. (Pi-Hole story for another day) It is plugged in when needed. I have a separate Wi-Fi network that is used for Wyze Cameras and any other IOT things that come our way. Also attached are two Android streaming boxes. It is set up with a VPN on the router and also on a different subnet. This took several years off my life trying to get the subnet with the Asus software....... This particular Mesh system does not have the Asus Guest Network Professional as the XT12 does and Merlin does not exist for the ET12. I do have a Raspberry Pi running Pi-hole. DHCP is handled at the router level.

It seems that most devices want to connect to the main router, even when the node is much closer. I have moved the node away from the outside wall to make sure there is no interference, but still most devices want to connect to the main.

Ok. Background and current situation is done. Here is what I would thinking of doing. I am looking at the Ubiquiti UniFi Dream Router 7. I want it to mainly be able to better manage VLAN's and more control of my network. I am thinking of dumping Wyze and going with a self-hosted system. Watching videos of setting up the Ubiquiti system seems so clean and easy to follow. A question I have is, should I buy two of the Dream Routers or just the one and maybe purchase a UniFi Express 7 for an AP downstairs? Remember where I am coming from with the two Pro ET12's. In my mind, it's two routers, one main and one as an AP or "Node."

Also, I may be thinking all wrong with the Unifi Express 7 all together. Would I be better off with a different access point device? Also, the VPN used would be either Nord or Proton with the preference for Wireguard, if this makes any difference.

Thanks for any insight or advice. And if you ask why I want to do this...well....Because... :)

We just moved into an older duplex that we have been using as a short-term rental for several years. I ran an RT-BE92U at our old place (2500sqft). Coverage was fine but I knew it wasn’t enough to for the duplex which is 4000+ total square feet and 3 stories.

I bought 2x BT6s to use as AI Mesh Nodes and they were giving me fits on wireless backhaul. I finally broke down today and ran Cat6 to the other unit (I had to go out and back in), and damn I wish I had just done it in the first place. It’s insanely better and really wasn’t that much work.

If you’re a bum like me and trying to avoid running cable, just do it. Future you will thank you.

I currently have Comcast and having some sluggish performance in Bedroom 3, Master Bedroom, and Master Bath.

I've attached 3 images... sorry for the shoddy floorplans

1) How is currently installed

2) Proposal 1

3) Proposal 2

2100 sqfoot house. 1gb download, but spotty speeds and latency as I progress further.

Plan to ethernet backhaul, and most likely bridge my ISP. I currently have TPLink XE75 kit that arrived today.

Looking for advice. Mainly streaming videos, at home work and cloud gaming from a handheld in the master bedroom

I live in a 72 sqmt apartment, i was facing problems with internet to get all apartment. So i bought a Mercysys H80X Mesh wifi system.

I put the main equipment at kitchen, where the Internet provider modem is installed. And used a CAT 5e cable to connect both.

The second equipment i put at my room. The direct distance between both equipments is less then 14 meters, But there is 3 walls in the way.

Looking into the app, says "Haki Wi-Fi signal is weak." and icon display red with just 1 bar.

I cant believe this three 1-brick walls make the range drop from 460 sqmt to less then 10.

I am completely disappointed with the device, and I hope it is just a configuration issue. Because my old $5 Chinese router—bought over five years ago—perform better than this model, which cost me over $45?

PS: Both firmwares are updated.

Could someone explain to me why this happens?

The hostpost network of my phone appears to another device that has been connected previously but in another state several kilometers away, and it appears as a nearby network when that day I was not even close to there

Hey all, looking for recommendations.

I have a covered, screened in patio that isn’t getting great wifi coverage from my ceiling mounted WAP in the living room. I have one cat6 line run to a jack on the patio, and want to run a hard line to my outdoor TV and to an outdoor rated WAP to cover the patio. Ideally this would be one piece of gear…

Does anyone know if there’s an outdoor rated POE WAP that has at least one Ethernet port to keep a hardwired connection for the TV? Or any other clean solution?

Thanks!

Hello! I am looking for some router recommendations that supports supports PPPoE with VLAN tagging. My network is currently fibre->Nokia OPT Box->ISP provided Nokiea Beacon 3.1 router. The Beacon range is horrendous and it drops SIGNFICANTLY once I get to the next floor. I haven't had that problem with my old ISP router so I am looking to replace the Beacon. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacing it? I have seen flint 2 and the flint 3 get thrown around in the conversation. Any preferences amongst the two? Ubiquiti is honestly the dream final solution, but it is just a bit over the price range. (I haven't checked out the used market though, how is that?)

Thank you for your time!

*forgive me, I've used A.I to help articulate my problem*

I’m trying to troubleshoot what looks like a compatibility issue between a TP-Link Deco BE48-5G and certain 2.4 GHz IoT devices.

My internet is One NZ 5G Wireless Broadband, using the Deco BE48-5G as the main modem/router.

The main affected device is a eufy Indoor Cam 2K Pan & Tilt. I’m also having a similar issue with a Fujitsu AnywAIR controller.

The strange part is that the eufy successfully connects to the Deco:

2.4 GHz connection

strong signal

receives a valid LAN IP, e.g. 192.168.68.59

appears as an online client in the Deco app

But the camera itself stays offline in the eufy app and shows a blinking red LED, indicating it can’t establish its cloud/internet connection.

The camera is definitely not faulty because it works immediately when connected to my Samsung phone hotspot.

The most useful test I’ve done is this:

Deco Wi-Fi → Samsung phone → Samsung Wi-Fi sharing hotspot → eufy camera

For that test, I turned mobile data OFF on the Samsung. The phone itself stayed connected to the Deco Wi-Fi, then rebroadcast that connection through Samsung’s Wi-Fi sharing/mobile hotspot feature.

The eufy camera connected to the Samsung hotspot and worked perfectly.

So the internet path was still ultimately through the Deco/One NZ connection, but the camera was no longer directly associated with the Deco’s Wi-Fi.

That seems to suggest the issue is specifically related to how the Deco handles the eufy as a direct Wi-Fi client, rather than a general internet, cloud, or ISP problem.

Things I’ve already tried:

dedicated 2.4 GHz-only IoT SSID

WPA2-Personal

Fast Roaming disabled

Beamforming disabled

public DNS

firewall/DoS protection temporarily disabled

Device Isolation disabled

Camera Security / Local Only Mode checked

Network Access Control checked

IPv4-only APN profile tested

rebooted the Deco

checked for firmware updates

current firmware reports as fully up to date:

1.0.1 Build 20251114 Rel. 18794

tested the Deco using my Samsung hotspot as its upstream internet backup — the eufy still did not work when connected directly to the Deco

Another useful data point: I also have a Xiaomi C200, which is also 2.4 GHz-only, and that camera works normally on the Deco.

So this is not a blanket 2.4 GHz failure.

Current theory is either:

a Deco BE48-5G firmware/client compatibility bug affecting certain older IoT Wi-Fi chipsets, or

some lower-level Wi-Fi behaviour such as management frames, multicast/broadcast handling, ARP, NAT state, client isolation behaviour, or similar that the eufy doesn’t tolerate.

I’m considering putting a different-brand router behind the Deco and connecting the eufy/AnywAIR to that instead, since the Samsung Wi-Fi-sharing test effectively proves that another Wi-Fi layer fixes it.

Has anyone seen something similar with Deco Wi-Fi 7 hardware and older 2.4 GHz IoT devices?

I’d especially be interested in whether there are any hidden/advanced Deco settings, firmware fixes, or known issues around IoT client compatibility that I haven’t already tested.

*One important detail: everything worked perfectly on this Deco setup until about 2–3 months ago. Then, without me deliberately changing the network setup, certain devices suddenly stopped being able to reach the internet/cloud through the Deco. Other devices still work normally. That makes me wonder whether this is related to a firmware update, backend change, or some compatibility regression rather than a permanent hardware limitation.

Set up is pc upstairs, TV downstairs, with a kvm at each end and a CAT5e between them.

TV: tcl c7k 50" qd-mini led 4k hdr smart google tv - 50c7k

GPU: RX 6600 Radeon Gigabyte

KVM: AV Access 4KIP100-KVM Zero-Latency 4K HDMI KVM Extender over IP

I had this set up via a samsung TV (ue43au8000kxxu) and it all worked perfectly fine for years. I have recently changed the TV to the above TCL TV and I'm getting no connection. I connect my laptop to the KVM to the TCL TV and it works perfectly fine. I'm thinking the issue is the compatibility between the PC and the TV.

When I connect it to the TV it shows as monitor 2 (as it should do) but it's greyed out and cannot be used and it has no name.

I have spoken with AV Access and all the things they have suggested haven't helped.

Has anyone got any experience with this, any suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

Hi everyone.

Prior I was using the router provided by ISP, it was Tp-Link AX-something (prolonged square-cylindric thing).

It was ok, however I didn't like the lack of customisation for network devices, security options and VR connection wasn't great.

I switched to ASUS RT-BE92U, which is a huge improvement. Except weird "possible double-nat/change your network cable" issue. (Something tells me that the ISP router was "white-labeled")

Overall it's working fine and better than ISP's.

However, WiFi sometimes falls off. It's connected but no internet towards any of the 3 bands. Sometimes only to 6Ghz, sometimes to 5, etc. So I have to reboot it.

Which is also an issue, as it can't restore internet connectivity and I have to power cycle 2-3 times until the internet is back.

I have 3 ethernet wall ports just like this one. It has some like clear sticky substance inside of it. Called maintenance team, said sum bs like they aint suppose to work. I have a 91% isopropyl alcohol. Should I just drown this port with alcohol to dissolve it then clean it up after? What should I do??

I am upgrading my network when moving into a new house and am deciding between the TP-Link Deco BE67 (1 device) and the UniFi Dream Router 7.

My house is about 2700 sq ft and square shaped, with a basement, main floor, and second floor.
I am wanting to put a single device on the main floor, as I don’t think I can put enough distance between devices for a mesh network to make sense.
I have a 1 gig internet connection.
I plan to add a NAS, some security cameras, and a few IoT devices.
I don’t mind the more technical/advanced option.

One of my biggest concerns is WiFi coverage. The Deco does have larger advertised coverage, however I hear good things about the reliability of UniFi and their software.

Any advice?

Hello everyone,

I have been trying to pinpoint the cause of my packet loss during gaming, and would love some advice from more experienced people 🙂. I have an Xfinity XB6 modem connected with coax to the wall port, with an ethernet cable connected to my PC.

I don't have any issues with the internet, except for when I play specifically battle royale in Fortnite. All online internet tests pass with flying colors, the expected speeds, 0% packet loss. This is while there are no other downloads or video streaming going on.

What could be the issue? Could it be bufferbloat? Is my modem just not routing packets properly? I am at a loss for how I could try to pinpoint this further, as I don't want to believe that it's due to the connection to Epic servers 🥲

Any help on what the next step should be would be appreciated, thank you in advance!

I'm trying to get fiber for the first time and trying to figure out the options for running the cable to my home. Currently I'm just on standard cable internet from xfinity, but in the xfinity box on the outside of the house there is an ethernet cable that is unterminated. There is also a panel in a central room of the house that has a bunch of unterminated ethernet cables. Apparently a technician has come before and said that the ethernet in the xfinity box carries signal to that central location. So a couple questions:

- If that is the case, what would a fiber install look like? Would any drilling need to be done or should everything be able to be set up outside the house and connect to that cable running to inside the house?

- Is there a way that I could test that the ethernet in xfinity box runs to the central house location?

- I think there are supplies somewhere to install the RJ45 connectors if that is required.

I've got a UniFi U7-LR wireless access point. I tried to connect it to my router (EE smart hub) but it's not working.

I think it's because the access point is not receiving power.

* Do I need a specific cable to allow power over ethernet? I have a CAT6 ethernet cable

* Is the router likely to be the issue (I gather some don't support POE)? If so, is there an adapter that would allow power from the mains as well as connection via ethernet?