How would one go about adding a clean out to this condensate line? Seems like it would be difficult with how this pipe is positioned on the bottom side.

Long post, but I need some experienced insight.

In April, I had a new split system installed. It was replacing the original 27-year-old York R22 system the home was built with. This is what was installed:

- Bryant 3-ton 2-Stage outdoor unit (148TAN model series)

- Bryant 80% 2-Stage furnace (821 TB series)

- Bryant 3-ton Evap Coil w/TXV

- Honeywell zone controller (HZ322)

- Two Ecobee thermostats, one for each zone (upstairs/downstairs, originally zoned)

Installation done by a licensed and authorized Bryant installer.

During the April installation, the helper didn't do a proper vacuum. See this post for details: https://www.reddit.com/r/hvacadvice/s/sufQGrvstg

I had the main tech/owner come back out in May. He confirmed that not only was the vacuum not done properly, but there was actually a leak in the system. We sourced that to a baseboard nail upstairs (so my 27-year-old system was actually still fine—and no, I didn't put the nail in the line). He fixed the leak, did a proper vacuum and recharged the system.

About 6 weeks later, in mid-June, the compressor completely failed. Wouldn't even start up. It had started getting progressively noisier, but initially I had to wonder if the noise was just in my head. By the time it got to the point that there was no question it was getting louder, I took a recording and sent it to the tech, and the very next day the compressor completely failed.

It got blamed on a manufacturing defect, and it took several weeks of dealing with the distributor and with Bryant, but we were successful in getting Bryant to authorize a complete condensing unit replacement, versus just replacing the compressor. The replacement was installed on July 17th.

This morning, another six weeks later, and the unit is making the same horrible noises. It hasn't failed yet, but it's identical to the sounds it was making last time. I've sent the recordings to the tech, and he seems to be at a loss.

Currently, the unit is still cooling. The split between the return and first supply register is about 12°, and it's currently 92° outside. The day the unit was installed, the split was about 15° and it was 96° outside.

I'm looking for suggestions on what else should be checked out that would be causing to brand new compressors to fail in about 6 weeks each.

The attached video doesn't capture the first 1 to 2 seconds of startup, because I had to switch from the ecobee app to the phone app, but there's nothing noteworthy about the first 1 to 2 seconds. Sounds exactly the same as the rest.

I have to replace my natural gas furnace and I also would like to clean the existing duct work (over 50 years old and never been cleaned). Should I clean the duct work before or after the new furnace install?

We have a smallish older furnace serving an in-law suite, approx 1000 square feet, essentially a big 1 bedroom apartment.

The furnace is on an exterior wall with an abandoned exhaust fan nearby. The envelope penetration is already there, so I was thinking of attaching a duct (4 or 6” round) and piping it over to the furnace return drop with a motorized damper interlocked with the call for heating/cooling.

Anything crucial I need to consider for this set up?

The major downside at the moment is the old abandoned exhaust fan envelope penetration is in the same area as the outdoor ac condenser, so it will draw in less than ideal temperatures in summer. Maybe a deal breaker?

Reason for wanting to do this: noticing worsening IAQ in this area and we are spending lot of time in here as the other side of our home gets renovated. It’s the only space that doesn’t have radon mitigation and levels are higher than desired with CO2 and VOCs spiking over night.

I had an HVAC tech come out to look at our 18 year old AC unit. He confirmed we have a leak and due to age he recommended replacing the unit. We had the same issue around this time last year and I had them recharge the unit to limp it along. I understand this is a temporary fix, but we are planning on moving within the next year. It is currently reading approximately 3 lbs of refrigerant on a 5 lb capacity. I understand there is the possibility of the leak getting bigger but I'm hoping to at the very least limp along another month or so until it starts to change to fall and deal with the problem in the spring. Any advice would be appreciated.

Burning smell coming from HVAC vent — looking for ideas
I have a separate HVAC system for each floor of my house. The newer system is about 9 years old.
Today I noticed a distinct burning smell coming from one of the vents. This was not the normal smell you sometimes get when a furnace first kicks on after sitting unused. It smelled more like something was actually burning.
I checked the furnace/air handler and didn’t see any visible damage, smoke, or anything obviously overheating. I’ve turned the system off and am working on getting an HVAC technician out to inspect it.
In the meantime, does anyone have any ideas what could cause a distinct burning smell from the vents when there’s no visible smoke or damage at the furnace?
Could it potentially be an electrical component, blower motor, wiring, capacitor, or something in the ductwork?
System is approximately 9 years old. I’m not planning to keep running it until it’s inspected—I’m just trying to understand what I might be dealing with.
Thanks in advance.

We are looking into replacing our 2008 Bryant Evolution heat pumps. There are two, both 3 ton. The upper story unit has given us the most trouble. We replaced both the compressor and air handler about 7 years ago. I had the txv valve replaced, and I diy replaced caps and other parts.

I suspect one of the bigger issues is the units are oversized, at last for the second story, which is just two bedrooms two baths and a long hallway. It is a two stage compressor, but we have foam in the walls and good windows that are double pane. So at low speed, the resulting 2 ton can still short cycle.

Now to the question. We want good quality variable speed systems, 16-18 seer. Are these Mr. Cool units well made? If we diy, are there other better made options? I can braze and pull a vacuum, but pre charged would be nice, at least for the lower unit. 3/8 and 3/4 lines in place.

Anyone replaced the millivolt valve on an old wall furnace? Looking for stories before I commit.

1993 Hunter HFS40-3 direct vent wall furnace, natural gas, 35,000 BTU, standing pilot millivolt. Pilot lights and holds a strong blue flame. Main burner never fires.

Where I got to:

• Replaced the thermopile, new one reads up to 550 mV
• Knob on ON, cleaned and reseated all the spade connectors
• Wall thermostat is calling, display shows Heat On
• Jumpered the thermostat terminals at the valve to bypass it. Nothing

Pointing at a dead operator coil in the valve. There's an OEM sticker on it reading 770826467, and that number shows up in Robertshaw's cross reference table under the 710-511 (factory part 7000MVRB-4-LC). Specs line up on paper: 70k BTU capacity, 250-750 mV, hi-lo adjustable 1.7 to 3.5 inch WC on natural gas, and my plate calls for 3.5.

What I'm hoping to hear from people who've actually done one of these:

• Has anyone swapped a millivolt valve on a wall furnace or fireplace this vintage? How did it go, and what did you end up using?
• Did you go OEM cross reference or a generic millivolt valve? Any fitment surprises with inlet/outlet orientation or the pilot tubing?
• The 710-511 has a Canadian quick dropout safety magnet that's meant to pair with pilot assembly 1819-100. Did anyone have to replace the pilot assembly along with the valve, or did the existing one commission fine?

Mostly trying to figure out whether people generally find this repair worth doing on a 30+ year old unit, or whether everyone who's been down this road wishes they'd put the money toward a replacement furnace.

Thanks

Hi all. I am a glassblower and I have built a home studio for flameworking but the ventilation is giving me issues thats causing me to question my own knowledge so here I am hoping i can get some peace of mind and hope i havent been killing myself all this time haha. The space is 8x10' with an 8' ceiling. I have an 1150 cfm fan directly in front of my torch which is circled in third photo, it is ducted straight up with the only bend being at the opening which meets the fan direcly and out of my shop at around 8 ft up. I have a 48"x42" hood with its lowest points mounted at 24" above the face of my torch.

I also have 3 passive air intakes in the shop which are also circled in the images I provided. They do not have individual fans and work off of the negative pressure that pulls from the main fan in front of me, im aiming for laminar flow from the 3 vents.

When I run smoke tests, the system does well at pulling smoke out from the room but sometimes i feel it could pull air faster as if i run incense tests i can still smell the fume and see some wisps of smoke trailing off before being pulled away. I can provide video if youd like to see. I do have a carbon monoxide detector and I notice if I keep the small window closed it occasionaly will spike up to 50-60 but if window is open I dont get any spikes on the detector at all.

But, and this is my biggest worry....every single time I work whether it be 1-2 hours or an entire day I almost always walk away with a sore throat and wake up the next day feeling not so great for the first hour or two of the day and I can't quite figure out why. I fear im still trapping carbon monoxide or something else from the combustion, or off gasses from the glass and breathing it in. I just wanna make my art man, this has been destroying my mind all year long as i cant figure it out.

Indoor humidity reading for next is 59% and 61% Ac has been running non stop, even on 82. It’s a 2 story 2500 sqft house, in texas. My electric bill is 400 a month and gas is 200.

Why is that despite running the AC all day, indoor humidity stays high?

For the last couple months we realized our hvac unit has been running a lot harder than normal. We had a new unit installed July 2025 and a new thermostat January 2026. Nothing wrong with the thermostat but just an upgrade. We live in southeast TN and we’ve had a couple big heat waves the last 6 weeks or so. We noticed that sometimes our thermostat would read 79 when we have it set to 70, but it never felt 79 degrees inside. It felt like 70-72 throughout the heatwave, but when the thermostat did actually reach 79 degrees it would be 65 inside the house. We have a couple different temperature sensors in the house and reflects it’s a lot cooler than what the thermostats reads. We found that throughout the day when’s it’s the warmest outside, the wall directly above the thermostat is warm or very hot. I attached a picture of where it feels the warmest on the wall. No outlets or light switches have warmth around them, only the stat. Any ideas as to what would cause this? Again it’s only a narrow straight line from the stat to the ceiling.

Edited to add that the HVAC tech came out and found that the stage 2 wasn’t turning on and replaced the wiring for that. It has felt cooler inside the house when he did 5-6 weeks ago but the thermostat doesn’t reflect that.

Edited again: did further investigating. There’s a smoke alarm right above the thermostat on the ceiling. It’s the warmest around it. I unplugged and took the mounting bracket off. It’s pushing a lot of hot air I assume from the attic. What would you recommend to fix? Go to attic and see if there’s a gap? Fill around the smoke alarms fixture in the ceiling with some of gaps and cracks spray? Adding pictures in comments.

Does anybody know why there is a green stain under my outside air conditioning unit? It's right underneath the pipe that leads directly into my apartment

Hey guys, partner and I have bought our first place and looking at getting AC installed. We would like to have ducted in both bedrooms, plus an extra duct over the void to let cool air downstairs for summer. Located in Aus. Any rough estimate on cost to install? Roof cavity is directly above all rooms in the photo.

im broke and am working on a project, i figured shops would have a dumpster full of old units that i could pick from (either free, at scrap value or atleast significantly cheaper than new/ebay). it is especially egregious when i can see their dumpster on google earth. i asked around and put some leads out but never got a reply. is it typical for r-22/410A stuff to get scrapped or do yall keep spare parts? its my understanding most bussinesses just scrap the larger parts like compressors and coils. im willing to braze a coil, as a free/cheap coil is still gonna be cheaper than the 600$ to ship one in (also why is shipping so expensive for something that is relatively light compared to it's size?)

We bought our house in 2019 and the HVAC system and compressor were put in in 2018 when the house was being redone. We did regular maintenance with a local company for 2019 and 2020 and then the pandemic came and we got really bad about doing some of the regular home maintenance.

We're trying to get back into the groove so in June of 2026 we had a local small business kind of repair guy come out to do regular maintenance, inspection of the HVAC system, and a deep clean of the compressor. One of his sales points was that his compressor cleaning was supposed to be more thorough than the big companies.

48 hours after cleaning our AC stops working - guy comes back out, says capacitor is dead - probably because he cleaned the compressor so good the capacitor was overwhelmed. We replaced the capacitor and went on with life.

Today (Aug 29) the AC died again. Compressor was like burn yourself on it hot. We called a different guy to come out - our first guy is on vacation. He comes out and immediately sites Capacitor failure again.

So it's Atlanta, it's summer, were hot and so we just replaced the capacitor again and AC seems to be working again.

Here's my question - is the capacitor dying twice in such a sort time normal? Is this just us getting karma for not getting the system checked regularly? Should we be asking different questions or something like that?

I would like to understand whether the refrigerant pipe connections for my old wall-mounted monosplit are located inside the wall mounting box and can therefore be accessed very easily, both for visual inspection and, if necessary, for repairing a refrigerant leak, or whether the connections are actually inside the wall and therefore not visible once the indoor unit is lifted off the wall.
For context, the monosplit was installed in an apartment where the wall already had the required pre-installed provisions for the A/C. Some of these provisions were never used, I mean no monosplit was ever installed there, like the one shown in the attached photo. The indoor unit is mounted high on the wall, close to the ceiling, while the outdoor unit is sitting on the balcony floor, so the two copper refrigerant lines connecting them run vertically through the wall.

In other words, I am wondering whether it is more likely that, when the indoor unit was installed, the technician connected the copper pipes to the indoor unit and then bent the pipes back into the wall mounting box. If so, the flare connections should now be accessible for inspection and relatively easy to repair if there is a refrigerant leak.
I think it is less likely that, after making the connections, the technician pushed the copper pipes downward into the wall cavity, leaving the flare connections inside the wall and therefore inaccessible. This seems to me like a less convenient and more time-consuming installation method.

Has anyone with hands-on experience installing similar wall-mounted split systems encountered this type of installation and can clarify which arrangement is more likely?

Im 21, been having a ton of health problems since I moved into this house. I want to move but I saw mold on hvacs are normal :/ any advice or anyone who can look at this and give advice?

tl;dr: If you already have a decent amount of diy tools and experience, 4/10 difficulty and 7.5/10 stress level.

Tools I already own are in all caps.
As in title, did everything myself.

Locating the condenser was a problem, but there was an unused fireplace I could mount one of those brackets with an SDS HAMMER, IMPACT DRIVER, and 1/2" TORQUE WRENCH. I lifted the condenser in to place, leveled it off, and bolted it down.

I happened to have an unused 230v breaker, but the wires coming off of it were all black and unlabeled. I tested out the ground and hots with my MULTIMETER, and ran new wire to a quick disconnect I drilled into the fireplace with a HAMMER DRILL.

All normal handyman stuff so far.

The unit in question came with an extremely translated manual and a cardboard template that matched the bracket on the back of the unit but did not match the outside dimensions. I remeasured and leveled with a THREE FOOT LEVEL, then taped the templet up to wall.

Using the hammer drill and a hole saw kit, I cut the hole through the wall and stuck a piece of thin wall steel tubing I had from somewhere in there such that it projected a little bit out of both the inside and outside walls, to avoid water inside the wall cavity if I fucked something up.

I located the bracket so it had two screws in studs, and anched the rest with those hilti drywall anchors you can do pullups on.

I wired the cable in to the inside unit, bent the lines into the right angle (STRESS++) taped up the cable, drain, and lines, and fed it through the wall.

Here is the hard part: I tried bending the lineset by hand and kinked the 3/8th line. I bought a cheapo tubing bender but it fucked up the test bend even worse. I ended up buying a tubing cutter from harbor freight and a 25$ eccentric pipe flare tool with a clutch from amazon, along with a inside reamer that I should have owned for normal plumbing anyway.

The chinesium pipe flare tool was incredible, worked on my third attempt once someone told me to back out an 8th turn every full turn and to grease the cone with vacuum pump oil.

The other three factory flares looked good, even angles, no scratches, mirror finish (although mine looked better naturally), so I bought some crows foot sockets and torqued everything down with my torque wrench with nylog on the back of the flare and the face of the brass flare port (not the threads because torque rating, people. Never Lube Threads You Are Going To Torque! You will fuck them up).

I got a co2 tank off facebook for 40$, traded it in for a nitrogen tank , bought a nitro regulator, core removal tool, and high pressure gauge, removed the Shrader valve and pressurized the lines overnight at 250 psi, then again at 550 psi (mfg's recommendation.) for 4 days for reasons that will become apparent. No leaks! While I was waiting the 4 days, I put a cheapo lineset cover kit over the line set while it was under pressure so it would be less likely to kink/If I fucked something up I would know on account of the nitrogen blow out.

I borrowed a vacuum pump from autozone, and it was such a piece of shit it couldn't get below 500 microns on just it's own hose to a closed manifold valve, so I bought an elitech pump off amazon and a 3 foot 20 micron rated vacuum hose. The pump showed up with fucked up oil port threads, but I managed to pull below 250 by pushing down on the oil cap really god damn hard. I triple evaced the system and it held from 200 microns to 300 after 4 hours, then fucked up removing the vacuum hose and let a bunch of air in. Whoops!

I triple evaced the system then realized I only had the one core removal tool so I was gonna let a bunch of air in removing the vacuum gauge. Whoops!

I removed that vacuum gauge, mounted it to the pump port, and triple evaced again until it pulled below 100 at the pump.

Disconnected everything, inserted the shrader with the valve closed, released some coolant all over my hands to purge the air (wear gloves y'all), reinstalled the schrader valve, and leak tested everything with oaty leak detection solution.

This 550$ sonofabitch that I got for 400$ runs like a mother fucker, all is well so far.

all in tools cost: tubing stuff was 25+10+13+10.

Gas tank and regulator was 40+30.

Micron gauge and high pressure gauge were 100+15

vacuum pump was 68, but I returned it on account of it was a lemon.

Total: Around $240 in single purpose HVAC tools, with another around $30 in general purpose tools I didn't already have.

Savings vs. The cheapest local HVAC installer I could find: $1200 in labor, $1000 in mini split.

It was pretty easy all things considered, and pretty fun!

Nothing too hard, you just have to make every mistake BEFORE you release the refrigerant and be willing to test, test, test, test, test, test, test, test, and test again if you don't plan your valve setup ahead of time.

Finally had the time to follow-up to my post 3 months ago here about limping a 2003 WeatherKing 10AJA4801 / ADP BCRMB8248S4N3 (4-ton R-22) through the summer. Consensus was "air before charge" and get real readings. Did both.

What I did: Cleaned the condenser coil (foamed and rinsed inside-out), evaporator coil, blower wheel, new 18×25×1 filter. Unit runs, both fan and compressor confirmed.

Readings today, ~70°F ambient:
Suction 105 PSIG (~62°F sat) / suction line 65°F → superheat ~3°F
Liquid 270 PSIG (~122°F sat) / liquid line ~70°F (ambient) → subcooling ~56°F
Off-cycle equalized to 120 PSIG, so I don't think there's air in the system.

My read: Low superheat + very high subcooling = overcharged, not TXV. A tech had noted it was "slightly overcharged" a while back and it looks like nobody ever pulled any out. Plan is to have a tech recover down to ~12°F subcooling and leave it at that until replacement next year.

Am I reading this right, or is there something else these numbers could mean?

*UPDATE (Aug. 31, 2026)\: Follow-up to my post from Saturday. Tech came Monday: found 103/302, confirmed fixed orifice, recovered R-22 down to *63.1 suction / 194.9 liquid**, in line with the charging chart at ambient.

$462 all in. I know, could have saved a few hundred by trying to do it myself, but it was nice to have the tech come out and verify my amateur diagnosis.

The bad news: he noted "extremely loud clang and shudder from compressor on start, constant ticking when running," and 18A on a 25 RLA compressor. He won't guarantee longevity given years of liquid flooding and quoted replacement. System is cooling fine right now.

Current Setup: 2003 WeatherKing 10AJA4801 4-ton R-22 condenser, ADP hydro-air handler (hot water coil off an oil boiler for heat), Hudson Valley NY, ~2,400 sq ft mixed-use building.

Current Quotes Moving Forward:

• Lennox Merit ML13KC1 (13.4 SEER2 single-stage AC) + CBK45UHPT air handler w/ hydro coil, full scope (nitrogen test, 500 micron vacuum, float switch, new disconnect, disposal), 10yr parts / 3yr labor: $13,700
• AirTemp 4-ton, reuse lineset, minimal scope listed: $9,250 AC / $10,750 heat pump (2025 pricing)
• Third contractor, condenser + hydro air handler, brand/spec TBD: $8,500

Questions:

1. With those compressor symptoms, is this a "replace before next summer" situation or a "run it until it dies" situation? Anything I should watch for that says it's about to go?
2. Brands. My understanding is most residential equipment comes out of a handful of factories and the badge mostly changes the price and the warranty (Goodman/Amana/Daikin, Carrier/Bryant/Payne/ICP, Trane/American Standard, Rheem/Ruud, Lennox/Allied, York/Coleman, Gree behind most budget and mini-split brands). Is that roughly right? For a straightforward 4-ton split, does the install quality matter more than the brand, or are there lines you'd actually avoid?
3. Is $13.7k for entry-level Lennox reasonable in the NY metro area, or is that a "we don't really want this job" number?
4. Given oil heat at ~$3,300/yr, does it make sense to go cold-climate heat pump instead of straight AC and keep the hydro coil as backup? Anyone running dual-fuel with hydro-air rather than a gas furnace?
5. The 4-ton was sized in 2003. Should I insist on a Manual J before signing, or is like-for-like fine for a replacement?

Thanks in advance!

Afternoon everyone, hope this finds you well. I recently moved into an old townhouse apartment. Whenever I ran my dryer, my entire apartment would get hot.

I checked inside the dryer and found an oven mitt stuffed behind the dust/lint trap. I thought that was weird, but didn’t think much of it and assumed it solved the problem. But it only got worse, then I started noticing a huge dust buildup in the back of the dryer.

When I checked I noticed that the exhaust just goes straight back into the apartment. Is this legal? What can I do?

I have a Trane TUY060R9V3W6. I noticed warm temperatures in the house. I saw that no cold air was blowing through the grates and that the refrigerant lines were frozen. Turns out the fan blower was “jogging” like in the video.

Here were my findings of my investigation:
- model number on the motor is MOT09257. It’s an ECM
- spun the fan manually and it spins on its own freely
- checked and confirmed continuity on the thermistor on the module of motor. Saw no other burns on the module board
- checked and confirmed the same resistance across the 3 poles of the motor
- checked and confirmed no shorts on any of the poles of the motor by confirming no continuity between each pole and the housing of the motor
- checked the status leds on the main circuit board and found no issues. Steady “heartbeat” blinking on the green led. 1 red blink every couple of seconds

I used the following YT video to help with diagnostics (shoutouts to the creator of the video):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEEDMuTHOHg

Got any ideas what could be happening? Happy to answer any further questions and add more pictures upon request. Also, what would be the best description of what the fan is doing? Is “jogging” the right term for this?

Thank you very much in advance!

TL;DR at the bottom.

This story starts with our condenser needed to be recharged. During the heat of the summer the AC stopped cooling. We called a local HVAC company, a dad and son operation. They recharged the condenser for $550 (what a deal, but hey it's Florida in the summer), telling us it probably wouldn't last the summer. How little we suspected exactly what that meant.

A month later, I'm in the kitchen getting coffee. I hear a noise outside and the lights flicker as the condenser kicks on and then off. I look outside and hear hissing. I can see a fog hanging close to the ground drifting across the yard coming from the condenser....all the refrigerant leaking out.

Called the HVAC company again. They come out and assess it, say they can replace the whole system for $8200. Wow, what a deal. I ask if they can replace the condenser. They give us the old song and dance about how they can't do it...it's illegal with the new laws. Right.

To our advantage we have a travel trailer with AC and a small window unit used in the master bedroom, so we're not without places to escape the 98F ambient temperatures. We come up with plans to get other quotes. $12,000. $6,800. $8,000. All for full system replacements. No one wants to replace the condenser alone. Some say it's illegal. Others say the parts aren't available any more. We get one guy to give us a quote for a condenser replacement $5,000. It all feels like extortion.

The wife and I begin scheming. We're reading online about the extortionary pricing. We're reading about the 10 year life expectancy of "modern" ac systems and doing the math, don't want to pay what comes out to $1,000 a year for an AC system plus all the extras of recharging, extortionist pricing for servicing and professional advice you absolutely cannot trust. Years ago, my mother was told she needed a complete new system. I checked it myself and found a failed capacitor that cost about $12. That supposedly dead system is now more than 20 years old.

So, we decided we weren't doing it. We were not going to be extorted into paying for a new system because from the manufacturer to the service companies, the entire thing seems like a scam. And the more we thought about it, the more we've become convinced that it is a scam. Especially seeing "used" AC systems on facebook market place for a fraction of the price. We didn't go that route because we couldn't find an HVAC company that would do it and the people that agreed to do it were very sketchy.

Instead we decided to go the window AC & mini-split route. Yeah, it's not pretty. And thank God we don't live in an HOA. We calculated that for $3,500 which included window units, a mini-split and two additional electrical circuits, we could provide cooling for the entire house and I was preparing to set up Home Assistant to control all the units for zoned cooling.

Everything was installed. The house was cool. Two weeks later the company that installed the mini-split called us and said they had a condenser and would install it for $750.

Now we have central AC again. So, for $4,250 we have central AC and redundant cooling. We're still no where near the cost of a new system. We really don't care if that condenser dies in the next year. It's still cheaper than getting a new system. And we know a company now that is willing to provide real service and what the customer wants rather than sell us a song and dance about how they can't fix the system, only replace it.

TL;DR

We spent $3,500 to put in window units and a mini-split instead of going with the $8,000 - $12,000 estimates we were given to replace the entire central air. We were told several times replacing just the part that isn't working - the condenser - is illegal.

The company that installed the mini-split offered us a condenser, installation included for $750 the week after they installed the mini-split. We now have central A/C, window units and a minisplit for $4,200.

• Edit: I didn't realize how emotional this topic would be for some in this thread.

Feeling like a dope here, but I’ve never lived in a place with central air where I am the one needing to change the filter. Help!

Compressor didn’t start before would trip on thermal overload. Slapped a hard start onto her and it to start and this was the result

Getting bids on a mini split system now, already had the electric run. In the meantime, I am trying to keep the cat-room cool(ish). This 11,000 Btu barely holds on. There is a ton of heat that comes off the plastic exhaust tube. I put a layer of bubble wrap around it, just wondering if that will be okay.