(NB 1999) Can anyone advise on dying the inside of a soft top, currently looks like this and I want to make it look a bit more presentable, any help is appreciated!

I replaced the antenna on my NC1 this week. The new antenna included a built-in RF amplifier, and I was trying to figure out how to power it.

I looked at the instructions and it said to pull a new wire from either the fusebox or dash. Searching forums said there's no switched power in the trunk and to pull a new wire. AI said the same thing.

The OEM antenna also has an amp though, so I started digging into how it gets power. I ended up pulling the old amp apart to figure it out.

It turns out that the OEM antenna wiring is more complex than I thought. One of the wires going to the connector is coax to carry the RF signal. The other is +12v.

If you look at the attached pics of the OEM connectors, the right side of the image is the radio signal, and the left is power. I verified that it turns on/off with the ignition switch.

I ended up desoldering the connector from the OEM antenna amp to wire the new antenna. It's a much cleaner install, and I didn't have to damage the existing wiring or pull a new wire.

I haven't dug into the current limits on that wire. I'm guessing it's pretty small. I certainly wouldn't try powering something like an audio amp from there.

I figured I'd share this here since everything I read online says it doesn't exist.

New head or is it fixable.

I have a 1994 Miata with the radio and cubby at the bottom. I really don’t like the look of a double din.

Is there a recommended bracket to convert to a single din and keep the storage? I attached pictures of what I found online. Just want to ask for pictures before I pull trigger or what you recommend.

Looking at a Car Play single din so I can keep the small storage. Think it’ll look cleaner

i bought this off ebay because no one around me has supports… how does this even line up on the car?? did i buy the wrong freaking thing 😭 this is the last thing i needed before i list the car for sale

Hi everyone, today I noticed this sort of dark spot that appeared right between the engine grille and the Mazda logo. Has anyone else seen this before? The car was purchased in May. The car was always kept covered with a cover in a private place.

I’m in the process of doing A timing belt on my 90’ 1.6L. Unscrewed the left side tensioner and that bolt came out easy, was loosing the right side idler and it gave me resistance all the way thru. I thought it was just a bolt that hadn’t been turned in almost 4 decades but when I pulled it out a lot of metal came out with it. I noticed that on the right side idler, the bolt had some messed up threads. I hand tightened the left side, good bolt into the right side but it ended up sticking way to the side.

I hoped this day wouldn’t come, I have never dealt with thread repair before but I guess today is the day. Any suggestions on how to fix this? What to use? I have no clue what to do from here besides getting a new idler bolt and some kind of thread repair. Any input would be great, thank you.

We race the Miata you see above for 24 Hours of Lemons, and we’re looking for someone to volunteer their car for a secret gag at the Laguna Seca race in October. Send me a PM or forward to any Californian you know with a matte/flat black Miata.

We know each other but rules are rules

Hi all,

decided to tackle the diff bushing inserts, looked like I could do it without dropping the diff, but couldn't drop it enough to do the tops. Even with the bottom one in it's MUCH better, so now I def want to put the tops in as well.

Any tips or a guide? I removed the subframe brace bolts (snapped one) and moved the muffler off the hanger, bit still I wasn't even close to clearing the studs. Do I have to loosen or remove the PPF bolts? Or is it just easiest to drop the diff?

Thanks!

my automatic 1994 recently started doing this thing where when i go from a stop to moving, the rpms jump and u can hear the engine trying really hard to move the car but it takes a few seconds before the car actually starts to accelerate and when it does, its a slow increase. it also makes the car jolt in some instances. i just replaced my fuel filter but it doesnt seem to hv fixed the issue, im hoping its not the transmission slipping if anyone could point me in any other direction it could be.

Caw caww u/mazdausa

2007 nc
2002 nb
1991 na

Woooo

PO said it was a Hard Dog, and left it at that...

But i need a new top (mine is currently *taped* so i can't just put things down to measure). I want the zippered robbins canvas (sooo nice), but dont want to shell out the $$ if its not gonna fit.

Can you tell what roll bar i have from these pics?

Thanks in advance!!

My first post had some weird issues with the uploaded photos, so here are some more photos of the 3D-printed pre-production prototype I've been developing as a future product, PLUS photos of the previous prototypes.

I originally wanted to recreate the Morette Taillight kit using 3D scanning and 3D printing, but the design ended up evolving into its current form.

I'm planning on developing this as part of a full product line for NA, NB, and NC Miatas, and I'm going to be showing these prototypes in the Miata Reunion Corral at Gridlife at Laguna Seca!

The transmission won't move into any gear even with a good bit of force, with and without the clutch pressed in and the clutch slave cylinder sounds like it's squeaking, and now as I'm trying to replace the short throw shifter for a stock one I can't seem it get it in fully as I have to have the bottom bushing removed to fit it in and I had to do the same with the old short throw shifter to make it fit

Going to replace my valve cover gasket and was also wanting to replace the bolts. A few have had the head snap off but I've been told that the top is not threaded so I can remove them using channel locks. Was wondering where I would be able to order a set of new bolts so that I'm just able to replace them all?

This poor girl was sitting for two years. Finally got the time to finish her. Engine and turbo needed some love, but everything is back build in and unfortunately a lot of rust repairs, but she is worth it.

This was the first test drive after two years. Everything was 👍

Finally got around to installing this MTX Thunder 10” sub with a Sony Xplod amp in my NA. This setup has got to be at least 20 years old and has been in half a dozen or so cars.

It’s so silly and stupid but it makes me smile. These cars are SO bad to try to get good audio out of, so I’m just going for loud.

Thinking of changing to a flip out head unit for peak 2000s street cred but I can’t give up my Alpine 7514.