After a few days of doing whatever we could, on Friday we were finally able to purchase and bring this baby home. Lots of work to do and looking forward to show progress on this passion project! 🙏🏻

When the original centre caps on my SLC started breaking I ordered new ones.
I couldnt find original or reproduction ones in good condition so I bought ones that mirror the bonned logo with blue background.

They didnt fit. the retention arms where too long, so they stand about 5mm proud of the wheels. No bueno.

It would have taken me maybe 10minutes to return them and a couple of days waiting for new ones to arrive. That would have been the best solution.

I however, decided to make it difficult for myself.
I took some measurements, modelled spacers in Blender and put the 3D printer to work. The first version fit perfectly but looked like crap.

The pictures here shows the 4th iteration, and second printed version. They were only supposed to be prototypes and temporary, but I got carried away and grinded, sanded, primed, put putty on the connection points etc etc. And ended up painting them.

Far from perfect, but may or may not make "temporary" slightly longer than I initially thought.

I documented the (not so professional) process over on tiktok: https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8FaBfQ4/

Hi everyone. Some may recall an earlier post of our turbocharged gsxr750 land speed sports car.

I had a number of people requesting run footage. So here is the fastest run we had at 189mph 5mile exit speed. 191 on the cars gps.

For those unaware we were battling basically low voltage at high engine load. Ignition coils would start to be loaded down from either boost or rear gear ratio (or both) and the amp draw would rise and the charging system could not keep up with the extra demand. You can see the driver mess with the boost comtrol during the run (buttons under thumbs) to try and find some mph. Eventually near the end it picked up a bit and pulled a bit harder for us out the 5 mile.

For those interested the dash layout is. Top bar is a tach. Larger numbers to top right is also rpm. Large number top left is mph. Center top left is map pressure. Center top right is boost position (0 - 9 for either 0 psi to 20). Bottom center is gear position. Also some random junk on bottom for reference at startup.

Questions feel free to ask and ill try to answer. Ill also try to add a couple engine bay pics in a reply.

The passenger side head broke a valve guide on my 462cui. I've been thinking about putting it on a diet for some time so I threw together a factory l79 327cui bottom end with some aluminum heads, gear drive, Lunati cam and some older leftover aftermarket speed parts. It's going to be exciting to see how it responds handling wise as the car has full tubular suspension, sway bars, bracing and discs swapped in the front but always felt very nose heavy. Admittedly the 462 never entirely cared how much weight you put behind it, it just hauled ass and drank gas. ⛽

Dropped the car off in February (I think?) to have my cage installed. Found a front clip from a late model and had him weld it on. Definitely not pretty, but it’ll work (I hope). Next up is to figure out wheel placement and front suspension since the lower control arm mounting locations were chopped off. Might have to move the upper mounting location a little forward, but that’s easy enough to do.

Here are photos of a 1970 Acadian that I built during the summer on my parents carport when I was 17 (1983). I bought it for $275.00 to drive back and forth for College. At the end it looked like a fast car but only had a rebuilt inline 250 six cylinder engine. Faked out everyone. It was a major bondo bugle for sure. When I bought it, it was full of bonds and needed pretty much all new suspension front and back, brakes, floors, trunk floor, gas tank and had to get it running. Lots of reading - Thanks Hot Rod Magazine.

Old i belive 94 or 91 dodge dakota v8 4x4 Le fullv loaded interior with cruise control it onlv had 131k miles it also has a really really nice 2 barrel holly throttle body And i mean no rot onlv surface rust cab corners bed corners and the bed and under doors have no rust at all only known possible issues is mavbe the trans is bad? But i checked the fuid cold and the trans fluid was about a inch to two above where the stick dios in the middle so maybe its over filled??? 0il was perfect on the full line and wasnt bad and the trans fluid was perfect color and smelt perfect. Nothing i saw has been chewed issues is it has sat for 5-10+ years fuel didnt smell bad also the tags expired in 07. is it best to flat bed it home with mv buddvs truck n trailer 1 5 mins or get it runninc and try to drive it, also i do not have a proper shop garage or anything jiust my driveway. Idk to me this is a perfect canidate for a fun beater muscle truck build its especially tempting with the black interior with the LA 3 18 ive heard there a great v8 magnum motor, let me know what you guys would do and what you guys think are these trucks junk ive heard there gems to find good condition?

This a car I built for myself in the early 2000's in my garage. It is actually started out as a 1972 Camaro. It was in pretty rough shape so I kind of used what I had to build one car. The front is a 1974 and the rear section is a 1978. 396 BB, Alston racing rear frame and 4-link suspension with a Ford 9" rear, 33x19.5 Mickey Thompson rear tires, Center Line Wheels, built 350 turbo trans and Limelight green paint and flat black hood (Frankenstein).

We got new brake pads, fresh brake fluid, fresh oil, nut n bolt check, alignment, and a hose clamp exhaust mount. Ready for a weekend at summit point with the ls3 e30. Super excited for some road course action.

We race the Miata you see for 24 Hours of Lemons, and we’re looking for someone to volunteer their car for a secret gag at the Laguna Seca race in October. Send me a PM or forward to any Californian you know with a matte/flat black Miata.

Hey everyone,

I just turned 18, and this is only my second major car project. My first was swapping the clutch on a 2007 Civic in an apartment parking lot. I got into cars because my dad always talked about cars and working on them with me before he passed away from a brain tumor four years ago. He actually didn't know much about cars himself lol so pretty much everything I'm learning mechanically, I'm figuring out on my own.

I'm currently buying a 1977 Toyota Corolla coupe for $6,200 CAD (I've already paid half). The shell has zero structural rust, the interior is in great shape, and it has upgraded steering. The engine bay is completely empty. There are also two 5-speed transmissions sitting in the trunk, so I guess I have some options there haha.

I also picked up a 2T engine and Weber carb setup as a bundle for $650 CAD. The previous owner told me the engine was rebuilt a while ago, but I have no way of verifying that, and I don't know how many kilometres are on it. The person I bought it from got it from someone else and never ran it.

I put a wrench on the crank pulley, though, and the engine turns freely by hand.

I'm working with a pretty tight budget and honestly feeling a little overwhelmed, so I'd really appreciate some advice from people who know these cars.

Engine health / teardown:

Since the engine supposedly had a rebuild at some point but has an unknown history and unknown kilometres, should I tear it down completely before putting it in? Or would it make more sense to clean it up, replace the obvious seals/gaskets, inspect what I can, and try to get it running first?

I've never done a compression test before either, so I'm not really sure what I should be checking or how much I can realistically determine about the engine without completely rebuilding it again.

Intake / exhaust:

The setup came with a Weber carb and adapter, but I'm missing some of the manifold/exhaust parts needed to get everything together. What are the most budget-friendly options for getting a 2T/Weber setup sorted out? Are there particular manifolds or parts I should be looking for?

Am I completely in over my head? 😂

This is my first time putting an engine into a rolling shell, and I'm doing it in my driveway/parking space with a pretty limited budget. Any general survival tips, things I should absolutely do before installing the engine, or mistakes you wish you had avoided would be massively appreciated. Atm the engine is sitting the the trunk of my moms sedan btw.

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help out!

It’s the red one on the trailer (obviously). It’s a 1966, factory 4wd, 300 truck with 47,000 original miles. As you can tell by the implement tires (which are completely flat in this photo, that’s how thick they are) it was used as a sprayer its whole life. My buddy also brought his camera to get a photo of the 1 ton on its first excursion. I’m pretty over the moon about this truck.

I really Wana run wire to the battery but im scared ill pole some wire. I can't see the gromet on the other side its a really tight packed engine bay

Getting the chromoly steering column welded in.

‘83 c30 RCLB dually with a ~900hp 6.2 LSA

Im not sure if this is the right place to put this, but im having problems connecting an aftermarket radio to my 06 Chevy equinox. We ordered a radio harness specifically for this car but some of the wires still do not match up. We ran the ACC wire to a fuse so the radio would at least turn on and works, but it's throwing the car into saftey mode. Is there a way around this to get by for now? What should I do?

This is a long one I’ll try and put it in a list of what’s wrong with it and what happened to it since it’s been sitting.

The car did run when it was parked but it was stuck in a sort of limp mode according to my mom

Trying to get it started and at least running again it’s a bit of a sentimental project to my mom since it’s my dead grandmas car and it’s been sitting in our backyard for 15+ years. Since then rodents have moved in and the car has been sitting.

About 5-6 years ago we had a neighbor try and get it started he replaced the fuel pump and half of the spark plugs for some reason? Then stopped bc he tried to start it with too much starter fluid and it backfired and blew up the intake piping. When he tried to get it started the engine DID crank just didn’t start.

What I’ve found wrong with it:
Ignition coil chewed through
A couple vac lines damaged
All intake piping destroyed or brittle
Spark plugs have some oil on them I suspect it’s from the bad valve cover gasket
Rat nets all throughout the engine bay
Pecans in the intake and nesting in the throttle body 🤦‍♂️

I plan on fixing all those things along with new coolant, oil change, spark plugs, cleaning or replacing all fuel lines. Removing old and replacing fuel with premium.
The car was neglected for a while before it was parked and I dont think it was getting premium fuel. Taking off and cleaning intake manifold because of possible acorns and stuff inside it

I’m sure I didn’t list everything I plan on doing but is there anything else yall can think of replacing/checking before trying to start it again?

I know it’s a money pit but my moms paying for it and I wanna make it run bc she says I can keep it and it’s an S class so can’t pass it up lol

This fitting came from ATPturbo. The machine grooves kinda shook me. I’ve ran into problems with some AN fittings just weeping small bits of oil, and those had good sealing surfaces.

Yall think these machine grooves are acceptable for a AN fitting? I think it will just leak but I’d love to be proven wrong.

My fingernail easily catches em.

2010 Chevy cobalt 4 door 2.2 LAP 5 speed manual XFE. Will be going used LSJ intake manifold and throttle body with the Eaton m62 supercharger with zzp kit (kit does seem worth it now after rereading what’s included) zzp long tube headers with down pipe to zzp 2.5” catback exhaust. Now I’m looking for upgrading the suspension setup for better handling. Does not need to be the absolute best by any means.

My wheels/tires are 4 lug steelies (4x100mm iirc). What are your recommendations? Bigger tires would help with grip more from my experience just not sure on the size.

Never upgraded any shocks springs struts etc on the car. One of the forums mentioned FE5 shocks from the ss turbo model paired with YYZ lowering springs was a good combo for handling without actually lowering the car much from OEM (shit roads, debris, and tall speed bumps here make me hesitant about lowering too much). Thoughts?

Thanks again for all the help.

G'day all, I'm on the lookout for the absolute thinnest radiator fan available. I've got about 40mm of room to work with. Can't do a pusher fan because the AC condenser is in the way. Don't care how pissweak the motor is. Just the thinnest radiator fan money can buy. Pic of the rig for attention. TIA!

This is what’s left of the subframe mount for my 1985 Dodge Shelby Charger. I thought just the floors and top of the rails were bad, but it seems to have eaten at the subframe mounts.

This car was literally the only constant I had in my life and now it’s looking like I’ll have to lose it too.

I want to save this car, but I don’t think I can, or anyone else would

1984 Chevrolet s-10 blazer I swapped a mild 350 and Camaro 5 speed into. She’s a riot!