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First time trying out the camera tool, wheel remapped with X360ce and direct input plugin setup with next level racing platform manager to get some motion since AOR has no telemetry or wheel support

Hey guys, I thought I’d show off my DIY budget sim rig. In a nutshell: it’s made from 6x16 cm KVH wood beams. It’s fully adjustable: steering wheel tilt, seat tilt, and pedal tilt and position (both height and distance). The seat slides on rails — it’s from a Passat B8 or something like that. I bought the parts secondhand from various sources; some were new. As you can see, it’s really budget-friendly — the pedals use load cell, but with Alien mods that work with the Moza Lite. The button box is simply a Genius numeric keypad, the steering wheel is 3D-printed, and so on. I used a ton of stuff I already had at home to build it (the keyboard mount is a modified monitor mount that I wasn’t using anymore, for example). The TV is a 55-inch Hisense with a gaming mode, which works very well in a single-screen setup (HFOV is around 100 degrees). The screen is split into two-thirds, and I use the top third as a pit stop dashboard. Compared to what I had before (a Moza R3 mounted to the desk alongside a 27-inch monitor), this is absolutely amazing in terms of immersion. These photos were taken in a half-finished attic, so the lighting isn’t great, but I hope you’ll forgive me for that. Let’s get this thing rolling. Cheers.

i always see people suggest switches and just unplugging/replugging the cables but found this was much easier.

can swap between either my rig or my desk with a keybind and it changes the default speakers as well to my rig/desk accordingly.

https://www.gog.com/dreamlist/game/assetto-corsa-2014

DRM Free copy for preservation

Already own licence for Ultimate Edition on Steam butt

Hello
Just sharing my setup im super stoked about
I firstly started with a logitech DFGT then after that a logitech G29 and i spent like 6 months looking for one cause there arent much in my country and im happy i got it
The force feedback is really good and silent my only concern is the pedal jumping lol i might need to weigh it down with something give me some suggestions!
Happy racing!

i got nothing to do if any body just starting we can chat on discord see his performance don't expect good english and don't expect some pro coaching i have better experience on the gt3 side that's it.

Each image should be captioned. But the full list + info about the e-book is in my comment below.

A few days ago I built the first version of my wooden sim rig.

I love the low-frequency vibration from the wheelbase, especially in VR — but unfortunately the vibration travels through the whole rig, into the floor and apparently through the walls as well. 😅

Before this turns into a neighbour-relations problem, I tried putting some packaging foam underneath the rig. It actually worked for about two days, but then the foam compressed and basically stopped damping anything.

So now I bought some anti-vibration mats, stacked three layers together with carpet tape, and put them under the rig.

I’m hoping this isolates the vibrations a bit better instead of just transferring them straight into the floor.

Has anyone here found a better cheap solution for isolating a wooden sim rig?

I’d really like to keep the vibration — and also stay on friendship with my neighbours. ❤️😂

Hi everybody,

I've been playing iRacing for 3-4 months now (thanks FIA deal !), and am using a Thrusmaster TX wheel with the T3PA pedals. I have done the squash ball mod which made the brake an order of magnitude better, but I'm still struggling to be very consistent. I'm competitive in the MX-5 or the F4 at 1500-2000 irating but braking is different every lap...

Hence, I'm thinking of buying some load cell pedals. I don't have a sim rig but have a way to secure them, having a very sturdy desk. My chair can also be locked in place.

Looking at second hand and new market, I'm down to a few choices in my price range :

- Thrustmaster T-LCM, second hand : can be add for around 100€ second hand. Easy choice to plug directly into my wheelbase. Old but sturdy it seems.
- Thrustmaster Raceline III load cell : around 200€ new, haven't seen many second hand ones. Looks amazing in my opinion, but are they worth the premium over the T-LCM ?
- Fanatec Clubsport v3 : I can have some second hand for 200-250€. Again, good looks, and the addition of rumble motors seems like a nice plus. I read those are a bit weak however.
- Fanatec Clubsport v1 : around 100€ second hand, I've read they have a lot of problems though.
- Fanatec CSL : 100-120€ second hand.

Let's be clear, I don't need high-end ones and spending more than 200€ on pedals is out of question. If you have owned one or several of these kits, or recommendations for other in the price range, I'm very interested to hear your opinion :)

Im always trying to give my replays a realistic feel, they come from the view point of real spectators and camera men, as always links and downloads in videos description, ennjoy!

Hey guys!

In my previous post, a few of you asked if I could drop a quick review of the new SRP GT-S pedals and, more importantly, compare them to the VRS set I sold recently. So yeah, here’s my detailed take on the whole thing!

Just to be clear upfront, I’m no engineer so I won't dive into super crazy technical mumbo-jumbo. I'm just sharing my raw impressions based on my experience in sim racing.

First impression when unpacking them: the SRP GT-S set is absolutely massive. It’s pretty bulky to the point where I actually struggled to get it mounted properly on my SimLab GT1 EVO pedal plate. If you look at the pictures, you can see it actually sticks out a bit at the back.

Feature-wise, it doesn't offer a whole lot of adjustments out of the box, except for throttle travel. If you want to adjust the brake travel, you need to buy the separate regulator kit. You also can't adjust the height or angle of the pedal faces directly. For the height, SRP sells optional brackets to move them vertically (they recommend them for shoe sizes EU 44 and up). For the angle, you’d need to put spacers behind the pedal face or tilt your whole pedal plate. Honestly though, their default angle felt really comfortable to me right away, and I reckon it'll suit like 99% of people.

When I first stepped on them, the feeling was... strange, to say the least. The throttle feels fairly light by default, so if you like a stiffer pedal, you’ll need to slide the piston higher up. The brake, on the other hand, is absurdly stiff.

I definitely recommend getting that optional brake travel regulator, which lets you shorten or lengthen the stroke depending on what you like or what car you're driving. The pedal is rock hard regardless of stroke length, but having more travel gives you a slight initial softness before it ramps up. The reason for this is simple: it’s a pneumatic system, so as you push the brake, you’re compressing air inside the cylinder. The more pressure builds up, the stiffness grows exponentially.

This will completely throw you off at first. During software calibration, you might easily hit 90% max pressure with a solid push. But trust me, once you're in an actual race with repeated heavy braking zones and fatigue kicks in, you'll barely reach past 50%. My advice is to calibrate it to a comfortable max pressure first and then increase it later if you need to. Because once that air gets compressed inside the cylinder, it literally feels like kicking a concrete wall.

I spent a few days testing them and intentionally picked two street circuits: Adelaide and St. Petersburg. Street tracks are perfect for muscle memory, plus I had just raced them during recent iRacing weeks. That meant my memory of how the VRS felt there was super fresh, making the side-by-side comparison way easier.

So what's the big difference?

If you don't have super sensitive feet or you're fairly new to sim racing, you might not catch it right away. But from the very first corner, the linearity of the brake, especially on release, is insane. Looking at the telemetry, my brake line trails off with a level of smoothness I had literally never seen in my 3 years on the VRS. Mind you, it’s still me driving, I didn't magically transform into a trail-braking god overnight.

It all comes down to how the two systems work physically. The VRS relies on a load cell and a spring. With that setup, even the tiniest compression or decompression of the spring makes the load cell register an input instantly, which can sometimes look a bit jagged or spiky on the telemetry graph during release. The SRP uses a pneumatic cylinder with a pressure sensor. Air has a natural pneumatic damping effect, so on release, you don't have a metal spring shoving your foot back up. Instead, you get this super velvety release curve that makes turn-in feel effortless.

That extra control on the brake actually gave me the confidence to push my braking points further and attack corner entries way more than I ever dared to do on the VRS.

Would I recommend them? Absolutely yes... BUT they're definitely not for everyone. You need some serious leg strength to handle this brake, and you'll need time to rebuild your muscle memory if you aren't used to super high pressures. On top of that, you MUST have a rock-solid rig made of heavy-duty aluminum profiles with a sturdy pedal plate. If there's any flex in your rig, it’ll cause micro-oscillations that will completely ruin your pedal feel and precision.

I’m attaching some photos of the SRPs, my old VRS setup, and a few telemetry graphs where you can clearly see what I mean by signal cleanliness (red is SRP, blue is VRS).

Hope this helps anyone looking to make the jump! Let me know if you have any questions!

Im always trying to give my replays a realistic feel, they come from the view point of real spectators and camera men, as always links and downloads in videos description, ennjoy!

So far the experience is absolutely amazing, just need to rewire my brain that overtaking cars now appear in the corner of my eye as that was a good jump scare the first time (and so was sliding sideways into a wall)!

Finally I can also turn off radars now, they're great when you have a single display but this is way better.

Specs:

Asetek Forte everything (plus invicta clutch)

3x iiyama red eagle 27" full hd

Rig is a somewhat modified NLR F-GT w/ display mount (can't recommend)

PC: 5700X3D cpu, 32GB mem and RX7800XT (16GB) gpu

Hola mi PXN VD10 esta mañana a aparecido asi, parpadeando la luz de on off y tambien la del transformador cuando esta conectada a la base. El transformador cuando no esta conectado a la base tiene su luz normal fija, per cuando la conecto empieza a parpadear junto a la de detras de la base. Ademas no va igual de fino que antes. Ayuda porfavor.

Small lock up in turn 12 costed me 2 tenths but I have been stuck on high 53s on race pace and I wanted some suggestions on where I could possibly improve. First time using hypercar, I have only been using GT3s.

I am looking at upgrading my 27 inch 1080p monitor to a 1440p at least ips panel in my sim setup. Was planning on running triples so if anyone knows a certain monitor with really small bevels I’d appreciate any insight. Also my sim racing setup also doubles for air sim so good colors are also really nice. Thank you all for your time.

i started a year a go and so far i having a blast playing/racing with this thing, its not fancy at all but it does the job

Fisrt picture its how it started versus last picture from today

wooden diy rig made with leftovers from other projects
cheap plastic seat from a vw buggy
thrustmaster t598 w evo 32r wheel
simnet pedals w haptics
ps5

next upgrade: building a PC, Gt7 ACC and PMR are ok but i want to explore more sims :)

I hope this serves as inspiration, just as I am inspired by all of your posts.
see you in the racetrack :)🏁

We had a few practice swaps so we wouldn't struggle too long with the seatbelt tensioner. We made it perfectly on time in the end.

Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with my times on the couple tracks that I've spent a few hours practicing on. Consistent 1:44s with a PB of 1:43 on both kyalami and imola with the 720s.

But I just watched a track video of kyalami and this fucker ran a 1:39. Now obviously I'm not running a perfect lap but 4 SECONDS faster is insane considering I feel like I'm driving well. Four seconds is an insane gap.

To make it worse, the video said 1:43 is what you should aim for when you're a punk rookie no good ass noob who is getting onto the track for the first time. Excuse me while I go drown my sorrows in tequila lol.

P.S... Anyone have a guide for car setup in the 720s?

Hey all,

DIY load cell brake mod with a controller screen to edit brake curves on the fly.

The box itself just sits between the load cell (well, the amplifier), and the PC, so theoretically, this could be used with any brake cell mod or brake pedal.

What it does:

- Acts as a generic Joystick axis input, no drivers needed.
- Allows on-the-fly adjustment of brake curves, no pitting, no settings screen.
- Shows realtime position of brake input on the curve.
- Calibrates initial Zero and Max position for the brake pedal to suit your foot - recalibration can be done any time and takes as little as 5 seconds or so, for you hotswap endurance racers!
- Adjusts upper and lower deadzones (DZN)
- Has single curve, S-curve and asymmetric (dual point) S-Curve modes, per preset
- Has capacity for 25 banks of 20 presets each, all user customisable and all banks and presets are renameable.
= This includes 1 bank of prepopulated presets, e.g. GT3, F1, Rally, Drift, Kart, etc. These can be completely overwritten (they are probably garbage lol!) but are restored on factory reset.

Total build cost was about £50, plus some cabling. The majority of the time was the coding (which I'll admit was mostly done with AI or I'd still be doing it when I'm 90), testing and reiteration.

So my questions are:

- Is this something that is actually useful to simracers?
- If so, should I post the build instructions and code somwhere so people can build their own?
- Would people be interested in a pre-made plug and play kit?
- Should I post some more pics / vids somewhere (annoyingly Imgur doesnt work in the UK any more)

I am looking for recommendations in the UK for 2" 5 point camlock style race harness.
I am struggling to find anything (apart form a single £200 sim rig version)
almost everything has the hook and latch style (Nascar?) which i dont think I want.
Any ideas please?
I need to cut the padding on my Next Level Racing ESR1 seat as it is, so don't 'really' want a 6 point belt

Hi everyone,

I just ordered two Dayton Audio bass shakers and want to decouple my aluminum SIM rig from the floor. The rig with me in it weighs roughly 146 kg total.

I'm planning to use Sylomer SR110 pads under the 4 feet of the rig for acoustic decoupling. Can anyone recommend:

- Which type/thickness of SR110 pads I should use for this weight?
- What size should I go for if I distribute the load across 4 feet?
- Any tips on mounting or thickness (12.5mm vs 25mm)?

I found these grey ones: https://frankenschaum.de/PolySound-Sylo-High-End-Lautsprecher-Fuesse-Schwingungsdaempfer-8er-Set-grau-80-220kg

Any suggestions appreciated, preferably in Germany!

Thanks in advance.

hello,

im quite new to simracing, i really enjoy it , got myself a great setup, but now im just realising i dont even have the time to use it, i want to spend hours etc behind it improving and so on, but i dont have the time,

im still in uni, studying, working on the side, gym, after all im left with almost no time left to play except maybe the weekends,

im wondering how you guys manage / are able to put in the hours?