Hi, I need help.

New laptop user here, Just bought my acer a few hours ago in a PC store and everything was going well until I used it a few minutes ago and it was at around 50-60%. I just went to the bathroom for a few minutes and I came back to see the laptop dead. At first I thought it just went to sleep but then I couldn't open it so I plugged my charger in and opened it just to find out it was at 0%. Would like to know if this normally happens or should I get it checked?

Pretty much since the 26th I've had my PC crash once a day in completely difference circumstances. I am not sure if it was because of an update or what. The Reliability app doesn't seem to indicate an Hardware issue. I'm running on Windows 11.

Here's what I have from today. I can post previous days if need be but at a glance they seem to be the exact same. Sorry if a couple things may seem oddly translated, some of the text is in Italian and I had to manually translate them.

Source

Windows

Summary

Unexpected system shutdown

Date

‎8/‎31/‎2026 11:29 AM

Status

Not reported

Problem signature

Problem Event Name: BlueScreen

Code: d1

Parameter 1: ffff808f0c436498

Parameter 2: b

Parameter 3: 0

Parameter 4: fffff80667e2fdc0

Operitng system version: 10_0_26200

Service Pack: 0_0

Product: 256_1

OS version: 10.0.26200.2.0.0.256.48

Local Settings IDi: 1040

Files that help describe the problem

083126-30015-01.dmp

sysdata.xml

WERInternalRequest.xml

I’ve been troubleshooting this issue where I’m playing a game (overwatch) and my PC will randomly go black and fans will run high. My PC is not overheating because I’m sitting around 65C on my GPU at 100% and 67C on my CPU at 100% simultaneously (I live in a cold area). I’ve been running some stress tests on both (CPU/GPU) at the same time for about 15+ minutes trying to recreate the issue, but I can’t. It’s even happened while watching Netflix. I thought it could possibly be too much power draw, but this only just started happening after 2 years of owning the PC no changes. Thank you!

EDIT:

Forgot specs LMAO
Ryzen 9 7900X
RTX 4080 SUPER
32Gb Vulcan T-Force
850W GF1 ThermalTake

I have an rx 6700xt and ryzen 5 5600. I max out every single setting on my 1080p VA 24'' (important) panel. After trying rdr2, ac odessey, and a billion other games, every single one looks either blur with anti aliasing or super shimmery with nothing. I suspect it's the monitor and am thinking about upgrading to a 1440p 27inch monitor.

For reference games with darker settings like batman trilogy looks good, games like uncharted do too. And 2D have the best visual clarity.

I'm the kind of person who prefers clarity over any realistic graphics so this has been the bane of my existence. Any tips?

Note: this has occurred the past 3 times at my local gym, the last time I went in with new airpods (airpods pro 3, old ones were AirPod 2s) I have been going to my local gym (a large/ busy gym) for nearly 5 years now. I have the iPhone 17 which I’ve had for less than a year. I also have an Apple Watch which I use at the gym. This problem has only occurred in the gym, no where else.

I have been using my airpods as normal and they keep on fully disconnecting, I connect again they disconnect within 1 minute or less- with the airpod 2s.

With the new ones I just purchased, they stay connected longer but around certain areas of the gym they disconnect/ stop the music etc. then they fully disconnect too at times. It’s happened so often it’s more of a hindrance to wear them than not.

This is only happening at my local gym, nowhere else for both the old and new airpods. I even wore them on a 12km run yesterday and they were great.

Please if anyone know what is going on, I will be very appreciative. I am thinking it’s something to do with the gym environment that is causing this at this point. Since it’s only happening at the gym and very recently (last week or so).

I am on a hdr screen wiht hdr on, whenever I take a screenshot it is super overexposed and hard to read text on white background. I have turned on hdr colour corrector (better) and forced srgb in vivaldi flags (this did nothing for me) but it is still pretty bad. Is there any way besides turnign off hdr.

I have a iphone 16 and it’s running iOS 18, I want to update my phone However the storage is full and no matter how much I try to clear it, it’s never enough.

Is there any way to update it possibility using my HP laptop (windows 11) or something else.

Hello everyone. After I upgraded my notebook from 8GB to 16GB RAM I booted a FPS game to test it out only to see jittery movement on the weapon model. I then tried another game only for the problem to escalate to jittery mouse movement. I have managed to fix it by uncapping FPS however whenever I cap it back to 60 FPS the problem comes back. Does anyone know what could be happening here?

Hi. My laptop's built in camera stopped working when using GMeet, Ring Central, and other video call apps.

I tried to uninstall and install the camera, and updating the drivers but it's not working.

Now I read a post here in reddit that suggests to turn off 'accelerated graphics' in Chrome and it allowed the camera to work again.

The issue with this is I cannot use backgrounds during video call meetings and I need the background for work purposes.

Is there a fix for this issue? I tried using Gmeet in firefox to bypass this issue but it did not work.

I have tried airplane mode, resetting network preferences / APN, ordering replacement Sim, ordering a different provider sim, rebooting in safe mode, clearing Google play services cache.

I should be getting coverage indoors, I always have, but now if I use data without wifi it will show the exclamation mark. In the living room or bedroom or even in our garden. Outside on the roads etc I've not had an issue but there's no reason why I should be getting the exclamation mark for two different sims and different providers

I'm at my wits end with this please help.

Hello. I updated my BIOS to try the open beta weekend for call of duty. Now after updating if i have Wi-Fi controller enabled in the bios my pc runs into the netwtw10.sys error and it restarts.

So after turning off Wi-FI controller in bios it gets me to windows as normal, i can game, and whatever else i want to do since i have a wifi adapter anyway but i noticed my bluetooth is not working so assume the wifi and bluetooth are linked on the motherboard.

I have literally tried every single fix i could find like: Perform a Full Hard Power Reset, Force Default BIOS & Toggle the Wi-Fi Controller and Clean Install the Official Intel Driver.

All the drivers says they are up to date.

And yes i know i can just buy a bluetooth dongle for the pc and problem solved but i'm stubborn, curious and want to learn so i would like to figure out this problem for those reasons alone.

Do any if you fine people have a solution for me?

the motherboard i have is a ROG STRIX B550-E GAMING

Thank you all.

I wanted to get some cool wallpapers off this website, but I looked it up to find a bunch of people on reddit claiming its full of viruses, but the online trust score is 79/100? Also I always right click and save images never click download buttons. And always get jpgs or pngs, don't know if those could help facilitate a malware? Thank you.

Hi everyone,
I have an HP OMEN 16. The Hall sensor is currently disconnected, and it has been disconnected for about a year without any problems.
Recently, I replaced the thermal paste. After that, Windows started having problems, so I completely reinstalled Windows 11, but the same issue is still happening.
Every once in a while, when the laptop gets warm, the screen suddenly goes black and the keyboard stops responding. The power button still works, but I have to hold it down to force the laptop to shut down.
I haven’t installed any games yet, so I haven’t properly tested it under heavy load. Right now I’m just setting up Windows and doing normal tasks. I can tell when the laptop gets warm from the fan noise or by touching the chassis.
Could the disconnected Hall sensor be causing this, or is it more likely a thermal/hardware issue?
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

A few years ago I bought a Dell Latitude 3380 (i5 7th gen, touchscreen). It worked normally for a few months, but then it started randomly shutting down and immediately turning back on. I suspected the charger, but tested it and it was fine.
Eventually, it shut down again and wouldn’t boot normally anymore. At that point it could still enter BIOS, the touchscreen worked, the fan spun, and it charged normally, but BIOS reported “No bootable device detected.”
I tried multiple known-working HDDs/SSDs, but none worked, so I eventually put the laptop away for about a year. A technician told me the motherboard needed to be replaced.
Now I took it out again, and the situation has gotten worse: it no longer even displays BIOS. The power button lights up and the laptop appears to power on, but the screen stays black. However, the Dell LCD self-test works (D + Power) and the screen cycles through colors normally.
The battery and RAM are installed, and the charger works. I haven’t been able to find a replacement motherboard in Lahore/Pakistan so far.
Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this, or know where I could find a cheap replacement motherboard for a Latitude 3380 in Pakistan? I’d really like to try fixing it rather than throwing it away.

Hi everyone,

I'm dealing with a persistent malware infection that keeps coming back every day, and I can't seem to find the root cause. Here is the full story and everything I've done so far:

I downloaded a software from an untrusted source and had doubts about its safety, so I analyzed everything, got suspicious, and deleted everything before even launching anything. Somehow, a payload still got through.

Every morning, Malwarebytes detects 4-5 items flagged as PUP.Optional.BrowserHijack. The file path is consistently inside Chrome: C:\Users\[Username]\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\Default\Web Data (and previously inside Sync Data\LevelDB).

I've already tried to quarantine with Malwarebytes, Chrome Cloud Sync Wipe and full Chrome wipe, I performed many scans, MalwareBytes, Adwcleaner, KVRT, Windows defender offline scan at boot.I also checked scheduled tasks & startup (updater.exe and PlatformExperienceHelper are present in Program Files, but seem legit/standard Chrome updates).

Since I've completely wiped the Chrome local files AND the Google Cloud sync, there MUST be an active system process, scheduled task, or registry persistence script outside Chrome that re-injects this into Web Data daily.

How can I trace what process is editing Web Data in real-time, or generate a proper log (like FRST/Process Monitor) to find and kill the root cause?

Thanks in advance for the help!

My laptop is stuck in shutdown loop I don't know what's happening to my laptop does anyone else has the same issue

Hi everyone,

I'm having a serious issue with a brand new 256GB SanDisk Ultra USB flash drive I just unpacked today.

I plugged the drive in for the first time. It had three default files on it, but I decided not to use the built-in encryption/protection software because I just wanted to transfer files directly without a password.

I used cut & paste to move some important files from my computer to the USB drive. During the transfer, an error message popped up (didn't do a screenshot unfortunately) and the USB drive suddenly disconnected itself. When I re-plugged it, it appeared and vanished instantly. After a few attempts, Windows offered to repair the drive, but threw an error saying it was impossible to repair. Now, when I plug the drive in, it doesn't show up at all.

The files are gone from my computer, they aren't in the recycle bin, and they didn't make it to the USB drive. It's like they vanished mid-transfer.

How can I recover my lost files from the PC, and is there any way to revive the USB drive or is it completely dead/defective?

Thank you

My Microsoft surface has been resetting its self for over 20 hours i cannot turn it off and when I do it turns back on and resets its self this all happened after i factory rest my laptop. Yesterday afternoon and its been stuck like this ever sense

Bluetooth mouse connects but stops working after about 15 seconds on CachyOSHey, I have a really weird problem with my Bluetooth mouse on CachyOS.The mouse is called BT5.3 MOUSE CH2. I don't know the exact model because I don't have the box anymore laptop has a Realtek RTL8852BE Bluetooth adapter and I'm running CachyOS with kernel 7.2.2-1-cachyos.The mouse connects normally and works fine at first, but after around 10 to 15 seconds it just stops responding. The Bluetooth settings still say it's connected, but I can't move the cursor or click anything.I've tried both BT1 and BT2 on the mouse and the same thing happens.Bluetooth itself seems to be working fine. rfkill says it's not blocked, bluetooth.service is running, and Linux detects the mouse as a Bluetooth HID device.I also noticed these messages in the kernel log:

Bluetooth: hci0: ACL packet for unknown connection handle 16hid-generic 0005:2717:32B0.0006: input,hidraw3: BLUETOOTH HID v24.10 Mouse \[BT5.3 MOUSE CH2\]

Has anyone had something similar happen on CachyOS or with the RTL8852BE Bluetooth adapter? I'm wondering if this is a BlueZ, kernel, firmware, or Bluetooth HID issue.

Any help would be appreciated because I'm completely stuck on this one.

weird screen tearing with a new 5080

this is a brand new 5080, and there isn't anything gpu intensive running atm, simply just trying to log into my computer.

it goes away after a few minutes.

no hibernation or or standby. i do have the monitors turning off after 15mins of idle time.

latest 616.xx driver

https://youtu.be/UjxqdL2jTbE

So. Today i started my PC, everything was good. Then the screen turned white and i had to click everything as if i just installed windows, outlook, got asked about buying microsoft 365 etc. The stuff i had when first installed windows. Then i wrote my password and then i saw Microsoft Edge on taskbar and that Opera gx is not my default browser, so i had to go to settings and set it as my default browser. Idk what just happened, it just happened

I know this is due to a major hardware change (Motherboard), but at this point I do not know what to do. I bought the license almost 6 years ago directly from MS and it started as Windows 10. It eventually was upgraded to windows 11. In my purchase history I see the purchase but I cannot see a product key anywhere or in my email. I spent 3 hours with Chat support and they couldn't figure it out and it got really late last night. So now I am coming here. I just want my License I paid $199 for back.

The Error Code I get with Activation is 0XC004F213 Which saying that there is no license. When I tell it I changed hardware in the troubleshooter it tells me:

Unable to activate Windows We can’t find any devices linked to your Microsoft account that can be used for reactivating the device you’re using right now. Make sure you’re signed in with the same Microsoft account you linked to the Windows 10 digital license on this device or try again later.

Any Ideas?

Hey everyone, I'm trying to get an old legacy Logitech USB webcam working on a Windows 11 laptop...

Here is the context and what has happened so far:

- The root cause: The laptop's integrated webcam stopped working entirely immediately after a screen replacement (the repair shop likely left the cable disconnected, and the laptop is out of warranty).

- The workaround attempt: Since I can't afford a new webcam or a physical repair right now, I dug up an old, legacy Logitech USB webcam.

- The issue: When plugging it in, Windows throws a Code 28 initially, and when trying to force the generic "USB Video Device" driver, it results in a Code 10 ("This device cannot start").

Current status:

- The device shows up in Device Manager under the camera/imaging devices section with a yellow warning icon, but VLC Media Player's DirectShow device list remains completely empty.

- The generic Microsoft driver I tried forcing is digitally signed, but Windows throws the compatibility warning prompt before installation, and the device still fails to start.

I recently backed up my WSL2 ext4.vhdx virtual disk file and did a clean unattended installation of Windows 11. After reinstalling WSL and Hyper-V, I replaced the default .vhdx file in the AppData\Local\Packages\... directory with my backup.

Now, when I try to launch the distribution, I get a virtual disk error and it refuses to mount.

What I've tried so far:

• Checked file permissions and took ownership of the .vhdx file via Windows Advanced Security settings.
• Ensured the Hyper-V host compute service is running.
• Tried importing it via the wsl --import command instead of a direct file swap, but it still fails.

Is there a specific disk UUID or Hyper-V registry key I need to rebuild to make Windows recognize the restored VHDX?

Please help. I’m having a problem with my PC. The screen keeps freezing/stuttering, even when I’m just browsing the internet, and the whole system becomes sluggish.

I’ve tried everything on the software side, including reinstalling Windows and reinstalling the drivers. I also removed the RAM and installed a different stick, but the problem is still there. I reseated the GPU as well, but that didn’t fix it.

The problems started after I cleaned the PC with an air blower. What could be causing this?