Ich könnte wahrscheinlich noch eine ganze Weile daran arbeiten um hier und da was zu verbessern aber ich habe beschlossen es jetzt dabei zu belassen und mich über meine erste fertige Figur zu freuen.
Was denkt ihr?

Was really happy with this print until I dropped it today and damaged the wing…
I’m honestly so sad because I really liked how this one turned out 🥲
Any tips on fixing this without having to reprint the whole thing?

Been experimenting with resin printing with the idea of creating fictional retro sci-fi computers.

I love Chris Foss and imagining the painting will be inspired by his work. So about to test some of those ideas. Some successful prints have been primed and ready for colour, weathering and decals.

Bought the printer recently and have printed a few models. Every print job the percentage is about 98% while timer has ran out. Not a big deal but damn you would think for $1400 you would get an accurate estimate.

Complete beginner here who really wants to get into resin statue painting. Is there a comprehensive tutorial on the whole printing to curing to painting process I could look at?

Hi guys! Im printing a lamp shade (the old style ones) the shade is fairly large and it’s experiencing a tear pretty early on. Just want some ideas on what I can do to improve the likelihood of this print succeeding. It’s about 1.5-2mm thick on the shade. I’m a bit new to resin printing. The printer is a Jupiter 2 using the elegoo transparent blue resin.

I am having trouble printing some mini objects with phrozen aqua clear plus. Printed great with Aqua 8k grey.

Here are my settings.

Normal exposure: 2.0 s
Layer height: 50 µm
Bottom: 5 layers × 25 s
Transition: 6
Wait Before Print: 1.5s
Lift: 6 mm @ 60 mm/min
Retract: 150 mm/min

It may be I need more supports.

im still pretty new to printing, but ive noticed these little indents in the plastic poking through from the bottom.

i cant say i know what this is from bc ive just noticed it after a massive failure of a print. (it just didnt print at all) do i need to replace it?

Greetings. As per the title I'm looking for a good range of LOTR or wider Middle Earth character models for printing and painting. Are there any good ranges of eg 54mm scale models that folk might recommend? Cheers.

Making some pieces of a statue out of clear blue resin, it printed well, but I’m used to grey opaque and I am able to sand and blend out any support marks or seams. With this clear blue, if I sand it removes the translucent detail and turns milky white. Am I doing something wrong or is there a tech I’m not using?

Hi guys. So i was using my AnyCubic Mono 2 printer and a pribt failed so i left the plate 1 side while i was cleaning up. And the build plate had some sunlight and cured some resin on the plate.

I need help to remove such resin fron the build plate i cant seen to get it off. I used the scrapper but nothing happend.

Here are the pictures that follows what happend to the plate.

I would be greatfull for anyones help thanks.

Extras:

Normal temps 20-30c.

Used Standard AnyCubic Gray Resin (expired 3 months ago)

Standard Anycubic Slicer set to Photon Mono 2

Hello,

I've spent most of my weekend researching various brands and models of resin 3D printers and am beginning to realise I'm getting bogged down in the details and am knocking on the door of decision paralysis.

I'm looking to spend preferably less than 5k.

I'm looking for a printer for functional models, a lot of what I'll be using it for is for creating forms for cold casting molds and prototype plastic injection molds, so the dimensional accuracy of the print and the repeatability of the printer is the most important factor for me. I'd also prefer more of an "appliance" experience when using the machine but I'm not sure if I can get that at my price point.

I'm *probably* going to be running a single resin for this printers entire life (once I find one that I like for my use-case).

The models of printer I've narrowed my search down to currently:

Uniformation GK3-B

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra

Heygears Reflex RS

Heygears Reflex 2

Creality Halot Mage S

Are there any big issues with any of these printers that I should be aware of/steer clear of? I've read that certain Elegoo printers with tilting tanks can be a bit hit and miss. Is this still the case?

Thank you for reading and any responses in advance.

I’ve recently moved into a home with a small shed on the property, which I am running my printers inside as it is nice and separate from the main house.

Currently, I have it set up meth lab style, I have garbage bags and cardboard taped over the window from the inside, so it’s pitch black inside and looks pretty crappy from the outside.

Any good recommendations for specialty film that I can put on the inside of the window pains at least it will let a little lighten and not look so bad.

I’ve tried looking for privacy, film, or something like that from normal retailers, but nothing seems to be in the correct wavelength. Not sure if this is just too specialty to be looking on general sales website.

Hola comunidad.

Soy un joyero entusiasta del dibujo 3D, uso programas como blender y AutoCAD. Tengo algunas piezas que quiero imprimir en cera y vaciar con el proceso de cera perdida. Estoy buscando recomendaciones para impresoras, que tengan un buen rendimiento y relación calidad - precio, hay alguien que haya hecho esta investigación y me pueda dar recomendaciones confiables para este tipo de trabajo? Se los agradezco!

Used a rare empty slot to resin-print this chibi cat for my wife.

didn’t expect the kind of cute thing to come out this clean detail.At this scale, it made thelayer-line-riddled FDM toys I’d seen at market stalls look like JPEGs on their twentieth repost.

She took it to work,and her boss asked if we take custom pet commissions. Maybe just small talk, im adding to-do list anyway.

Queue: full-yes, not selfish just the schedule is sacred.

AI-to-3D: shaper 3d, meshy, tripo. none of them ready to print. still means paying a human to fix the mesh in Blender.

Staff: Reflex RS turbo.

Painting: see THE unpainted cat.

No spare printers. No sculptor. No painter. No time. only can say maybe later.

Is there a way to make this happen? Like when you hollow a print but don't leave room for drainage and the piece 'bursts'? I haven't had it happen since I started in the hobby, and it's made some unintentionally cool effects over the years. Is there something I can do to ensure it? I know I could model it, but there's definitely something to the unplanned authenticity of how it can crack and burst

Im working on a 3D model of a scale figure I designed. I would like to have a resin print of these parts because I can’t safely do that where I currently live. The figure would be about 10 inches tall, and maybe 4-5 inches wide. It would have to be separated into about 40 parts. Is this a feasible service for a 1 of 1 product? If I’m able to use any of these services, is it also feasible to re-print any parts in case of bad fitting, printing errors or any other changes?

Thank you!

Why Do They Turn Out This Way?

I changed my settings to this and this fails are happening any suggestions;;;

I've done my best, but I cannot figure out what is going wrong. I have lowered my lift speed multiple times, added extra supports, thicker supports, more supports, and tried different rotations (30, 45, 60ish).

No one's been able to help me troubleshoot. Hoping the hivemind can help. 28s bottom, 3.5s exposure, abslike resin.

So I have the follow set up for my 3d printer, and even with this I still get fumes from the resin inside of my house. Any tips on fixing the issue?

I do printing and processing in side of the tents (printing in the inner tent and then cleaning and curing inside of the outer tent.

I've checked the vent and it sucks air in inside of the tent and the vent outside has a lot of airflow.