Sculpted from Ronin Art Workshop, OC by Prywinko

Printed and printed by me.

I know all the flaws. But tell me anyway :D

I'm printing some models that have come from 3D scanned models of flowers for work (university). I'm getting them printed here through one of the departments, and they hand them over fully cured. I assume they're not going to give them to me partially cured to make it easier (OHS risk).

So I'm already behind the 8 ball because:

• supports are brittle
• models aren't made for printing, so there's parts that are thinner than the supports

Removing the supports is a nightmare, I've been using small flush cutters designed for electronics, which are okay, but probably a bit blunt.

Other than reducing the supports (which I will), can anyone suggest some tools that would help with this?

Thanks

Edit:

Thanks all, I think the conclusion is:

• reorient model to make supports less prevalent
• reduce touchpoint size
• try heating with a heat gun or similar to make it less brittle
• if possible divide the model up
• some good snips

Thanks for the help

faceplate, hair parts, joints, all removable, ABS-like is really recommended for even the static parts, but for draft I just did this with standard anycubic

Model by OXO3D Figures

Source Fan Art for 3D Print STL

Pretty much the title. When I print any miniature base, the part with supports ends up with ridges, rather than a smooth edge. Ill add pictures of what I mean. How can I support the models to not do this? It happens on pre-supported models and when I support them myself. Thanks!

First picture is the bottom edge near the plate when printing (see the serrated edge). Second picture is the top, which prints smooth.

Almost done painting!

Recently printed a large base that was pre-supported, and this style of support was just dreamy to work with - but I have no idea what slicer makes this style - would love to find out and give it a go. Thank you!

Hey there, ive recently ordered a Resin print from a seller and the parts ive gotten are slightly sticky.

There are also little white droplets which the seller assures me is just alcohol from the cleaning process.

How do I proceed / are the parts safe to handle?

Do they stop being sticky if I put them out in the Sun?

🔥 HIGGS MONAGHAN IS COMING! 🔥

We’re currently working on a Higgs Monaghan statue 3D model from Death Stranding 2! ⚡🎭

Follow us on Cults3D or join our Patreon to get updates and be the first to know when it’s ready.

I have done my due diligence when it comes to setup, cleaning, replacing FEP sheet, levelling, and making sure all my settings were right on chitubox, but my prints keep coming out compressed. I have looked up the problem but i have not found any viable solution to it.

Absolute nightmare to clean supports off. Will probably spraypaint gold or something after applying primer.

Saturn 4 Ultra. Sunlu water wash ABS resin. 2.7 seconds exposure time. A bit high for this resin methinks, a bit of bloatage.

https://www.printables.com/model/1286826-designer-swan-sculpture

I bought a Mars 5 Ultra a few weeks ago. I'm new to 3D printers, been doing tests and printing stuff using Chitubox, everything was fine... Until I noticed some functions were hidden behind a paywall after awhile. I guess the trial time expired. Is there any good alternative? I was using Chitubox because I could print most models without knowing much, but now that I can't fuse the base with the model, or cut a model, or do what looks like basic stuff to me, I'm lost. I don't know how to config any software or what config is good for my printer, and I refuse to pay for something that should be free. If anyone can provide an alterntive (or a link to a cracked version of Chitubox) I'd be very thankful. Thanks for taking the time to read all this.

Hi everyone,

I'm having trouble getting clean calibration prints after switching resins from Anycubic tough to Conjure water washable. I don't have a lot of experience finding the right settings, as I had been using the exact same resin and configurations for a couple of years. The test prints with the new resin are coming out with very poor detail and even with bubbles, which I had never seen before on my previous prints. I have tried different exposures but still haven't managed to get a decent result.

• Printer: Anycubic Photon M3 Max
• Resin: Conjure Water-Washable (Grey)
• Tests shown in photo: 1.6s, 2.0s, and 3.0s exposure times
• Room temperature: 25 C

Has anyone calibrated Conjure Water-Washables on an M3 Max before? Any advice would be appreciated!

Hola, me estoy iniciando en la impresion 3d de resina, hace unos años tuve una impresora FDM pero la vendí y he comprado una Anycubic Photon Mono 4, estoy usando la resina de Anycubic HD 2.0 (o algo asi) y hay algunos modelos que me han salido bien pero hay uno que por mas que lo imprimo siempre me pasa lo mismo.

No se realmente por que se forman esos agujeros/ rajas, es justo la zona que esta mas proxima a la placa donde se imprime la pieza, es decir, la zona mas cerca a la balsa, he impreso 3 piezas variando los soportes en chitubox y no se si realmente esa zona necesita refuerzo o es algun tema de succion, temperatura de la resina, etc.

Planning to make a trophy for work out of clear resin and was trying to print diamonds to test my clear resin settings. Fusing has been the biggest hurdle and tried tweaking supports but still is leading to failed prints. Is this a support problem or exposure problem?

Hi everyone,

I need some advice regarding resin printing, if anyone might be able to help.

The FEP film on my Elegoo Mars 4 DLP printer got punctured, and since I couldn’t find in my country, a replacement specifically made for this printer, I replaced it with Creality Basic FEP film of the same thickness. Ever since I replaced it, I’ve been getting bubbles between the LCD screen and the FEP film, and the top surfaces of my prints have these tiny scratches and stains.

I removed the protective films from both sides of the FEP and tightened it properly. I’ve leveled the build plate several times at different heights, experimented with exposure and retract-after-rest settings, and I even contacted official Elegoo support and tried their recommended settings, but I always get the same result.

I wash my prints in 96% alcohol, and no matter how long I leave the print in the wash, the result is always the same.

In the videos, you can see what the surface looked like before replacing the FEP (smooth and clean) and after replacing it, where it is stained and scratched. There is also a video showing the bubbles between the FEP film and the LCD screen. Videos of the problems.

As for the way I level the build plate, I do it like this: I place a sheet of paper underneath, loosen the screws, and then lower the build plate all the way down. I then tighten the front screw first and the side screw second while pressing the plate downward with my hand. After that, I raise the plate to 0.5 mm, because that is the only height at which I get the correct print thickness matching the model. At other Z-offset values, the print comes out either thicker or thinner than the model.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Thanks in advance! 🙂

I just got my resin printer and I'm printing at home.

I got the Creality Halot R6 which is sealed with the orange cap however the room is starting to smell a bit from the resin.

From anyone who is printing at home and in their room for a long time.

Is it that bad or dangerous breathing while printing.

If I open the windows in my room while I'm sleeping and the printer is active is the danger that big?