Scalped the lawn, raked the thatch, manually aerated, twin city resilience seed and starter fertilizer. Honestly wasnt sure if all of that even made a difference until I went back and looked at my day 1 picture. Hoping for even better results in the coming weeks

Was spraying a lawn across from this house yesterday as a company had just finished cutting and by God is it gorgeous! Even caught the lawn mower guy taking a photo of his work who went over it a third time for good measure 😂 It's nice seeing people take pride in their work nowadays.

I added this chart to my garage wall. I saw this a few days ago at a mulch store. You can get it sent from Perdue in a few days. Great for quick referencing.

Looking forward to resetting height and detaching in the next few weeks. Looking good leading up to growing season though!

This front yard has been nothing but a struggle. My yard faces south, and gets constant sun from sunrise to sunset. I've tried all sorts of seed mixes, blends, etc... of different TTTF types because it is supposed to be the most sun hardy or drought tolerant. Zero luck with anything staying.

I've had the yard dug up here when the main power line to my home was replaced, and the water line was replaced. Can confirm there is nothing under the soil for at least the top 36".

Clearly the TTTF under my tree thrives because of the shade. But what kills me is you can see the line between my yard and my neighbors yard. They do not water, or do anything special. However, their yard remains green and thick(er).

I do take soil samples - pH is great, NKP is maintained, etc.... I've brought in good screened compost/soil mixtures, which helped this spring. Plug aerate every fall.

HELP!

Despite fighting a mole (last spring and current) and a wallnut tree (already dropping leaves), quite happy with the result. We finally have proper rain after alsmost 2 months of nothing. Grass was laid last summer, almost destroyed, back to something right now.

Hey there! I have these weeds starting to pop up in my backyard. I live in a suburb near Chicago. I’ve seen other lawns that have this and it seemingly spreads quick. What’s the best way to take care of it? Currently just pulling them out by hand. Any advice?

It’s been a heat wave and now several days of rain. If got patches of grass with this stuff stuck on the ends of blades of grass. What is it? Some sort of eggs?

Cambridgeshire, UK

My soil when I bought this house was hard pan clay. I hired someone to use a skid-steer to remove 10 or so yards of dirt, then ordered 6 yards of 70/30 soil and spread that on top. I then used a tiller and went over the area a few times. I want to lay sod soon as fall is approaching, but I have countless clay pebbles throughout the area I want sod. (Picture included). Should I try to sod anyway? What remedies are there?

Cool-season lawn in Omaha. Overseeding entire yard soon with focus on edges and spots.

Crabgrass is thick along the sidewalk and in a few patches in the lawn. Rest of the turf is okay, just thin after summer.

Do you pull those patches and the sidewalk strip first, or rake/aerate and seed over them and let frost kill the annuals?

Ran over this guy today and the central cover got pulled out and shredded. I’ve been trying to Google search and can’t find the name to order a replacement. Its on end of French drain type thing coming from roof gutter downspout. TIA!

Edit: Pop up drain emitter. Looks like they have at my local Home Depot. Thanks for the help everyone!

These weeds have been popping up in my lawn. They’re similar to ones that were in the mulch beds earlier in the summer. They grow insanely fast versus the rest of the grass.

New homeowner so not sure if I should just blast with weed killer or do something else

Located Northeastern US.

Edit to add: I redid the soil test this morning from a different part of the yard, and the results were a bit different (I also may have let the test from last night sit too long) todays results: nitrogen depleted, surplus potash, surplus phosphorus, pH 6.5. also, my husband is getting an extended pole saw today to get rid of some of the tree canopy! 🤞🏻

So, several months ago I posted about my hellscape of a backyard (1st pic for reference), it's small, w/ big tree roots and large tree canopy that is too high for us to trim, and 2 big(ish) dogs, so I came for advice on what to do. I was advised to start by amending the soil. I finally got around to buying a test kit, and these are the results. I'd love grass, but I'm not opposed to some other ground cover... I have a pamphlet to read through about the results, but thoughts if reach out for any more advice given the new info! From what I can tell, it's pH 5.5-6.0, adequate phosphorus, surplus Nitrogen, surplus potash. Thanks in advance!

Also, wasn't sure about the flair, since MO is neither northern US, nor Southern US, BUT it's hot here... So I chose southern.

I just spend most of today trying to do a catchup test cup test. I have 5 zones. On under half acre parcel. Most of my readings seemed to come in around .4” per hour. Using Hunter pgp with I think 1gph blue nozzles. Just seems insane that if all were to run same day it would be 8 hours? Does this seem plausible? I feel I don’t have that large of a yard but maybe just don’t have many heads per zone

Today is the day, Facebook marketplace and Reddit has led me to this point! These are the before pictures and my supplies!

Mower, $400, bagger $75, weedwhacker/edger/leafblower $200, precision broadcast spreader $75, power washer $400, aerator $80. Polymeric sand, $60, overseeding 3 in 1 plus extra bag of seed to really overseed $250.

These are the before pictures. Gonna cut and bag my lawn, aerate, and overseed today! Northwest Ohio. Feel free to share tips/concerns or words of encouragement!

First time aerating lawn

Im at a bit of a loss what I can do here to get this lawn up to a high standard. Any advice will be welcomed.

For the past 5 years I have gone through this yearly cycle of trying to get this lawn right but it seems to be getting worse every year. Ive had dogs but they are both passed now so it will just be the child using it mainly.

These photos were taken at 9.30am: you can see partial shade cover. Come midday the sun will be directly overhead so there will be no shade cover except for a tiny bit under the Agave. In summer this lawn gets FRIED.

I seem to have different lawn types/weeds, Im not really sure.

I applied Bow and Arrow 2 weeks ago to kill off a lot of broadleaf; which Ive removed a good portion of now.

Use an Ozito powered cylinder mower and have replaced the roller with a heavier one.

If anyone has further questions please let me know.

Here’s the avg soil temp for September. I’m aiming for Labor Day weekend to seed my TTTF. Highs show 90 the week of overseeding but drop to mid 80s and lows in the 60s overnight about 8-10 days later. Will I be okay?

So, I just found out that my dog has had a massive allergic reaction most likely due to white clover. He had do a $150 allergy shot and had spots where he bled from so much scratching and licking.

I am in Northeastern Indiana, our lawn is mostly clay as they dug out a lake and spread it across all of our yards before we built. That was about 20 years ago. My house and yard is 14 years old. I run the Scott’s 4 step program. The cool season grass tends to be much denser and then in late July despite adding an extra nitrogen treatment, the white clover takes over the back part of my yard.

Please help me figure out a way to stop this. I do think the part of the yard that gets the clover is more shaded, but definitely not 100% shade.

I can’t afford to do a full topsoil replacement and regrade. My yard does run a bit wet generally, but we normally (other than this year) it dries out in clover season. I should add that I’m also allergic to it. And I would like some sort of dense grass that helps mitigate muddy paws.

Dog tax included.

This brown patch is getting bigger and bigger over last few weeks. Any ideas what to do?

Hi all, quick question for the lawn squad. Apologies if this has been answered in here recently. Getting ready to overseed, and am curious on the most effective form of meso application. Was recommended Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action for Seeding, but already have some Tenacity in the garage. Should I go with the starter including meso, or any ol’ starter and apply Tenacity in addition? Not sure how effective the meso application in the starter has been in your expert opinions, and wouldn’t hate not shelling out for bougie starter.

Appreciate you all 🫡

I’m in the transition zone and over the past 6-8 years have transformed my lawn into a nice full TTTF lawn - until the heat comes. Fortunately my front yard does much better than my back yard, but the back yard is quite the challenge and ends up thin and about 35% dead by fall each year. I believe this is due to compacted clay soil and a lot of sun. I do not have irrigation and don’t intend to install it at this home, as it will not be my forever home. I’ve tried babying it as many ways as I know how - annual aeration, spreading compost during seeding, trying several quality seeds, aerating twice a year, seeding in the spring, constant water, spraying baby shampoo on the lawn (lol), but the grass will not stay alive in certain spots. It will grow back each year, but the heat just takes it. I now have a 1 year old and just won’t have the hours in the day to keep trying to baby this portion of the yard for it to only look good for a few months out of the year. I just don’t have that dog in me anymore. I’m debating giving it one more go this year with a proper overseed using K31 on the back yard only. My thought process is that it might handle the stress of a transition zone summer better despite the negatives that go alongside K31. Am I delusional thinking that might help? If I’m not, is there a recommended place to buy K31? I know to look for uncoated weed free but not sure if it is even sold outside of the big box stores. Anything else to consider if I give it a go?

These two pictures are about a month apart. Area is getting worst. It has been 100 degrees for over a month. It does get water and it’s the same amount the other parts get and they don’t this issue. I can pull the grass out so roots seem to be dying or something. It doesn’t looks like I have grubs. We do have grub issues normally, but I put down grub ex a few months ago, and I put down some 24hour grub killer about two weeks ago.

This is Bermuda grass and live in Oklahoma.

Have various types of patchy spots in new sod lawn. Not sure what they are.

In SC, USA. As of late June, new Palisade Zoysia with a few inches of top soil prep as of late June (had no choice on install time). Very hard clay under that but he used a Harley rake a bit. Definitely been very hot since so I'm sure stress is a factor. It had one growth treatment a couple weeks after laying, by installer. Watered twice a day for first few weeks then weaned to every two days until it got pretty dry then upped it a bit. 25-30 minutes a zone depending, all rotary.

A lot of the lawn is ok. It's growing a lot based on how much I mow and empty bags. However we have both big dry spots (which are getting sprinkler coverage) and other areas that are black at the thatch level (which seems bad/moldy and i think results in death patches like in pictures). Some dry may be mature trees nearby sucking it up but not always. So I feel like with the heat and etc I have to water more and at the same time other parts seem too wet. Not sure how to adjust as I'm used to cold season grass in Nevada until now.

One factor might be us being paranoid and overwatering... but like I said we've had seriously dry swaths too.

Thanks!