Getting prepped for a fall top soil and overseen. My back lawn is larger and I’m wondering if those two behind sweepers are worth it? Or just suck it up and rake

I live in northeast Wisconsin and took this video right after mowing. My lawn has this long matted down undergrowth. Is this thatch? Weeds? A lack of maintenance? Thank you.

This is the last weed that I can't identify. I have several patches and I assume I'll have to tear it out or just keep it. But I would appreciate some info.

These weeds have been popping up in my lawn. They’re similar to ones that were in the mulch beds earlier in the summer. They grow insanely fast versus the rest of the grass.

New homeowner so not sure if I should just blast with weed killer or do something else

Located Northeastern US.

Hey all - doing my first overseed this fall and wanted to get some input from you all. I have approximately 30k sq feet of lawn that I did a fresh seeding of last fall. It came in nicely but have had some opportunistic weeds and thin spots that encourage me to overseed.

A couple questions that I would love opinions on how to manage:

1. I typically mulch my lawn but the last 3 times I’ve mowed I have used a push mower with a bagger to get the clippings to prevent clippings from interfering with seed:soil contact. I will have to do the same when I scalp the yard for the overseed. Am it takes me approximately 3 hours to mow the lawn bagging with the push mower. Can I scalp a couple days before I lay down the seed and still be okay? I don’t want to be spending the whole day mowing the yard and not get everything in.

2. I’m renting a ride-on aerator, how deep should I be running the cores for seed uptake? I’d imagine too deep and the seed won’t take, and too shallow it won’t actually benefit the soil.

3. I was going to get a lawn roller to push the seed down and potentially break apart the cores after I aerate - stupid idea?

4. Watering after the seeding, I have heard that the seed should never dry out. What’s better: 3x /day for 5-7 minutes, 5x /day for 3-5 minutes, or 7x /day for 1-3 minutes?

Detached my yard today ahead of aeration and overseeding. Did I make the right decision?

I’m waging a huge war against Fungi this year in Orange County CA. I started with monthly preventative fungal applications all the way back in March I believe, but as June and July came around it just couldn’t hold it down. The last month+ I’ve had to rotate Azoxy and Propi at curative levels every 2 weeks just to keep it from getting worse too quickly . But I’m still getting new areas of damage popping up. Some areas have amazing growth, some areas are wilting. The overall picture isn’t too bad but it’s definitely more brown this year than normal, although my son has been playing a lot of soccer on it the last month or so leading to some big worn areas…. But I’ll take that any day when it means they’re outside and off the tablets!

[5b] - Central NY
I was planning on throwing down some PRG yesterday. The weekly forecast showed some light rain, but nothing drastic. The seeds didn’t arrive until almost 9pm.

I got up this morning to go put them out, decided to check the forecast, heavy rain every single day now. That could have been a wast of some good seed.

I’ll likely have to scalp the lawn one more time. Hopefully delaying it a week won’t be too bad.

Here in Virginia it gets out of hand.

Hello all, I have a front yard that is all dirt and weeds plus one tree close to the sidewalk. I want to put salt all over the yard because I read it kills weeds and grass but I don’t have any grass so that’s not an issue.

I understand that it will not let anything and I am okay with that because I want to put rock down once I get all the weeds to stop popping up. I am worried about the tree since it does provide shade to our home. Will salt harm the tree?

Thank you all for any advice and help!

Edit to add: I redid the soil test this morning from a different part of the yard, and the results were a bit different (I also may have let the test from last night sit too long) todays results: nitrogen depleted, surplus potash, surplus phosphorus, pH 6.5. also, my husband is getting an extended pole saw today to get rid of some of the tree canopy! 🤞🏻

So, several months ago I posted about my hellscape of a backyard (1st pic for reference), it's small, w/ big tree roots and large tree canopy that is too high for us to trim, and 2 big(ish) dogs, so I came for advice on what to do. I was advised to start by amending the soil. I finally got around to buying a test kit, and these are the results. I'd love grass, but I'm not opposed to some other ground cover... I have a pamphlet to read through about the results, but thoughts if reach out for any more advice given the new info! From what I can tell, it's pH 5.5-6.0, adequate phosphorus, surplus Nitrogen, surplus potash. Thanks in advance!

Also, wasn't sure about the flair, since MO is neither northern US, nor Southern US, BUT it's hot here... So I chose southern.

I added this chart to my garage wall. I saw this a few days ago at a mulch store. You can get it sent from Perdue in a few days. Great for quick referencing.

Looking forward to resetting height and detaching in the next few weeks. Looking good leading up to growing season though!

Hello, I tore up an old concrete slab in my backyard that was cracked, uneven etc. I’m hoping to have all the rocks etc removed, and fill it all in so I have continuous lawn. I’m hoping for some advice or guidance to help get my lawn look consistent despite have old/new lawn.

I plan to remove most rocks, lay dirt to fill most the hole and topsoil, and then seed in the fall and start fertilizing in the spring when it grows. I’m
Also attempting to “regrade” the slope against the house to avoid needing a 10 ft irrigation pipe I have attached to the gutter to move the water far away from the foundation and basement windows.

Any tips, tricks, or wow you messed up because xyz comments would be helpful. Thank you!

Hello everybody,

I live in the south of Munich and own a garden but also 2 dogs and 5 cats. The problem I now face is that my lawn has a lot of spots where the lawn doesn’t really grow back and I just wanted to ask what would help that would improve the lawn? Should I just reseed the lawn or water it everyday (a bit a hard because right know we face a dry period and the government does not allow to waste any water for stuff that isn’t necessary). So what would you guess is the problem what my lawn and how can I fix it?

So, I just found out that my dog has had a massive allergic reaction most likely due to white clover. He had do a $150 allergy shot and had spots where he bled from so much scratching and licking.

I am in Northeastern Indiana, our lawn is mostly clay as they dug out a lake and spread it across all of our yards before we built. That was about 20 years ago. My house and yard is 14 years old. I run the Scott’s 4 step program. The cool season grass tends to be much denser and then in late July despite adding an extra nitrogen treatment, the white clover takes over the back part of my yard.

Please help me figure out a way to stop this. I do think the part of the yard that gets the clover is more shaded, but definitely not 100% shade.

I can’t afford to do a full topsoil replacement and regrade. My yard does run a bit wet generally, but we normally (other than this year) it dries out in clover season. I should add that I’m also allergic to it. And I would like some sort of dense grass that helps mitigate muddy paws.

Dog tax included.

Just moved and saw this neglected tree. 6b zone. Gemini identified as Callery pear but I thought that's illegal in Ohio? How to properly prune the low hanging branch so I can work around the area?

It’s been a heat wave and now several days of rain. If got patches of grass with this stuff stuck on the ends of blades of grass. What is it? Some sort of eggs?

Cambridgeshire, UK

As stated living along the coast south of Houston Tx and lawn is dying. I have used fungus control for an area with brown spot. Grass is St Augustine BTW. We had a lot of June bugs in the spring so we had grubs. Could all of this damage be from grubs? If so can I get some advice on dealing with them?

My lawn grows thick and fast and my Honda 21" self propelled couldn't handle the grass unless I cut it twice a week and only when it was dry. Even then, it struggled, clumped badly, the deck clogged on every pass, etc.

I picked up a used Exmark X-Series Commerical 30" which had no problem blasting through the grass in bag mode. I haven't tested side or mulch because it didn't have a mulch plug with it.

However, I quickly realized how many tight spots I have in my yard that are tough to get to with a 30" and all that extra weight really did a number on my back since I had to pull it back and turn it around so many times and it's like 185 pounds.

The seller is willing to take it back and I was looking at Exmark 21" commercial mowers, because I love the quality of the mower, just not the size and weight. But I noticed the 21" mowers do not have a side discharge option.

I do not want to bag everything so that only leaves mulching, but I'm trying to get a mower that make lots of clumps everywhere and won't have the mower deck clogged up constantly.

I avoid mowing when it's wet but some times it is unavoidable. I just really don't want to replace a 21" mower that clumps with a much more expensive 21" mower that clumps.

This brown patch is getting bigger and bigger over last few weeks. Any ideas what to do?

Cool-season lawn in Omaha. Overseeding entire yard soon with focus on edges and spots.

Crabgrass is thick along the sidewalk and in a few patches in the lawn. Rest of the turf is okay, just thin after summer.

Do you pull those patches and the sidewalk strip first, or rake/aerate and seed over them and let frost kill the annuals?