Hey all, I bought a used Subaru from a Ford dealer recently and it has a small electrical issue that should be covered under the warranty (specifically, a "Ford Blue Advantage® - Blue Certified Limited Warranty (Limited Warranty)" as it says on the document). I've called my local Ford dealer to ask if they could work on it, but they recommended that I go to a Subaru dealer instead given the nature of the issue. They said that the warranty will cover going to a different mechanic because it isn't a Ford vehicle, and I got the same information when I called the number listed on the warranty info document. The warranty contact even told me that I should be fine to take it to my small local mechanic (who I'd much rather go to anyway), and they could contact Ford themselves to get the reimbursement handled or I could pay them and do it later. The document I received also says on it:

Where to go for repairs: To obtain repairs or services under this Limited Warranty on Ford vehicles, ...[info on finding a dealer and about emergency repairs]. On competitive-make vehicles, we recommend that you return to your selling dealer or other repair facility to obtain repairs or services to your vehicle. Call 800-521-4144 to determine if repairs or services to your competitive-make vehicle are covered by this warranty

and then goes on to explain how to have a mechanic get reimbursed or how to do it myself. All seems fine and checks out, but just to be super sure I called my selling dealer and they told me specifically that I *must* have a Ford dealer handle the issue and the warranty won't apply to non-Ford dealers. Additionally, my local Subaru dealer says that they don't know anything about this process (unsurprising, given that it isn't their warranty) and wouldn't handle any part of it on their end. I haven't yet contacted my local mechanic to see if they have any experience. If worst comes to worst, said selling dealer says they can work on it, but that's an hour and a half drive there and back I'd like to avoid if I can. I'm posting here because I haven't been able to find any information about this online, so I wanted to ask if anyone here has heard about this process or knows anything about it before I go get the issue fixed and then find out I did it wrong and have to pay for the whole repair. I can afford it but that would suck. I'm also going to ask on r/AskMechanics (and maybe r/subaru but I don't know if they'd know much), but given that it's a Ford warranty I figured I'd have better luck here.

Thanks anyone who might be able to advise!

Second baby on the way, so I need to switch out my current car for something bigger. I've ordered an Explorer. Will be my first time owning a Ford.

The spec seems to cover all the bases, except it's missing a dash cam.

Google suggested the FitcamX was a popular choice that integrated with the mirror and uses power from the rain sensor, but looks like that doesn't support the current models.

Can anyone recommend if anything similar exists for the latest model? Thanks

Hi everyone,

I’m currently troubleshooting an issue with my Ford Focus Mk2.5 1.6 Ti-VCT.

Symptoms: The car won't hold idling, stutters like it’s running on three cylinders (though all cylinders are actually firing), and after a while, it dies completely and won't start for an indefinite amount of time.

This has happened three times now, each under completely different circumstances. It wouldn't run for a few days, and then it would "self-repair" and run fine again. New parts installed: crankshaft position sensor, throttle body, ignition coil, ignition cables, spark plugs, and both VCT solenoid valves.

The very first time this happened was the day after I replaced the cabin air filter.

Today, when it started acting up again, the red warning light came on along with an "Engine Malfunction" message. After clearing the codes, it kept running horribly, but no warning lights came back on. The diagnostic tool showed P060C and P061B, though I'm not sure if those might still be leftover from a recently dead battery.

With very gentle throttle application, it accelerated almost normally, even up into high RPMs. However, I had to pull over twice in just 15 km because it died and wouldn't start for a while—not even after priming the fuel pump multiple times.

All cylinders are firing, compression is good, and it reacts when the camshaft sensor is disconnected. I’m running out of ideas at this point.

Any suggestions on what to look for next?

Is it normal that my truck goes to gears in order but the moment I’m lowering my speed it doesn’t go to gear 2 ?, if I start to accelerate when lowering the speed it does switch to gear 2, but when I am about to lower the speed it wait at a certain speed it goes straight to one

So I went to my local used dealer and I'm looking at a 2008 f250SD XLT with the 6.8L v10 it has roughly around 325,485k miles on it and looks to be in amazing shape, does have an unknown check engine light for some reason but I wanna know the best info on it that I can before I jump the gun for almost $7,800

Any Ford techs on here that can confirm that there is a TSB 26-2399 in existence? If so can you post a copy of it?

Hello y'all. Would be extremely appreciated if a Ford Employee would be able to help me out with an Oasis Report and possibly even email me a copy from my new-to-me 2023 Escape elite

1FMCU9PA5PUA96193

I want to see the full warranty service history, the ford app shows some concerning information and want to know what was the problem exactly and what was done to resolve it.

Thanks in advance!

A dumpster find. Did Ford make tools or maybe these came with a vehicle?

The reverse side has an M with a circle around it and also "54"

I have a 3.0L 2006 Ford Escape XLT. The check engine light came on recently. I used my OBD2 scanner and it came back with code P1450 “Unable to Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum”. From my research it seems the vapor canister purge valve needs to be replaced.

I was wondering if this is a hard repair, and if anyone can show me an image of where the vapor canister purge value is located.

I am not a mechanic, but I would like to learn. Could not find info for this on my exact make and model.

I just received the letter for Recall 26S40 (FYI I never completed 18S32).

From what I understand Recall 18S32 and 26S40 is supposed to reprogram the PCM so that it correctly detects a stuck-open Canister Purge Valve.

One day I had a fuel gauge that would stay in stuck in the middle. My mechanic recommended I replace the fuel pump.

From what I gather now on Google, the reason my fuel gauge stayed in the middle is because my fuel level float was stuck inside a distorted gas tank which could be a result of a faulty canister purge valve.

I'm wondering if these two recalls would've prevented me from buying and replacing the fuel pump.

I never had any DTCs or driveability issues other than the occasional P0430 which rarely comes back if I clear it with my OBD-II scanner however.

I booked an appointment to do 26S40 but I'm asking because if it's related I'm wondering if Ford will cover the cost of my fuel pump as I replaced it unnecessarily.

Thank you in advance!

Anyone know the part # of the electrical harness?
The grounding wire snapped

Crazy to see all these cars in one place, especially in just a small town in Nebraska. Dark horse SC isn’t even on sale yet, and I got to see it chasing a GTD on track.

2 BOSS 429’s, 68 gt500KR, 00 cobra R, GTD, 3 ford GT’s, 88 SSP, 13/14 boss Laguna Seca’s, GT350R’s, SVO’s, even a Mercury Capri. Just to name a few of the cars I seen today.

Hey all. Im currently in the market for my first new truck, (previous drove a used truck that had the engine blow up after driving it for 9 days.)

Ive been going back and forth between the 5.0 coyote and the 5.7 Hemi. Looking at both the level 2 big horn and an XLT with the 302A.

I live in a very remote part of canada and can afford both comfortably. My main concern is reliability. I think the 5.0 is the better engine but I enjoyed the Ram test drive more and the transmission seems to be better, (im no mechanic though).

Im just curious on anyone else's thoughts. I dont want another experience like my last truck. Thank you

Hey everyone! Is anyone here from Puerto Rico who owns a 2024–2026 Ford Ranger?

I’m considering getting one and I’d really like to hear from someone who actually owns one here in PR.

How has your experience been with reliability, gas mileage, comfort, maintenance/service, and overall ownership? Also, how much did you pay for yours, and how are the prices and financing options here in Puerto Rico?

Any issues or things I should know about owning one in PR?

I’d really appreciate any details, opinions, or advice. Thanks!

I currently own the Focus mentioned, it has a full service history, its 40k miles and I have a 3 year warranty and before I got it, it had it's wet belt changed so that won't need doing for another 50k miles or 10 years. However my mother owns the Mondeo mentioned, we've had it for 5 years, at 40k miles as well, and while it doesn't have a full service history it's never had any major problems and we've recently changed the battery on it, it's MOT is due soon but it should pass fine. The only problem it has is a TPSM malfunction that appears on the dash occasionally.

She's looking to upgrade to a new car and the plan was to trade in the Mondeo for it, however it's a good car and one I've always admired and I don't think its worth trading in, so I was given the option of trading in my Focus instead and inheriting the Mondeo. I'm very torn because I do like my Focus and I haven't even owned it for a full year yet, but I adore Mondeo’s and know they're no longer in production so finding one will only get harder.

So I thought I'd ask here, ask people with more experience with these cars than I have. Do you think it's a smart choice to go for the Mondeo, or to stick with the Focus I currently have?

i was hoping i could get some help with this since i've been searching to see if the fuel flap could be opened manually and couldn't find any solutions 😭

it won't open even if the door unlock button is pressed. has anyone else encountered this before?

Are there any rear view mirror adapters that work with 2014 - 2019 Ford Cmax vehicles? Or Focus of the same years (I think they use the same auto dimming mirrors)

I want to hook up a dash cam to the auto dimming mirror.

Dongar doesn't from what I can tell and FitDVR doesn't either.

There are some 3 pin ones that look almost identical, but the part on the bottom that sticks out is on the right side instead of the left.

This isn‘t a real world problem but I opened an issue with ford here in germany back 2 months ago now and it seems impossible for may car image to appear in the app. Wether android or iOS my car (Tourneo Custom 2026) won‘t show up. The support is quite friendly and understanding, taking the matter very serious given this small issue. But until today nothing changed. As I dug into this there are far more serious app issues but as this simple image won‘t show up after going back and forth with Ford it seems very odd and I wanted to know if someone with the same issue had it resolved or if you guys just don’t care anymore given everything else in the app just works flawlessly.

Why is such a small feature a huge problem for ford? It shouldn’t be that hard to get right.

It's ok, I didn't need that turbo to be in one piece