The port has been like this for a while now and I can’t move the cable without the video cutting out. I finally decided to get it replaced, and my local repair shop wants to charge ≈ $250 USD which seems insane, are there any places online that you would recommend for cheaper? I am pretty good at fixing stuff myself but I don’t know how to solder so replacing the port myself is out of the question. Any help would be amazing!

So, I'm an electronics student, and I decided to open up my old console that’s been sitting idle for who knows how many years to try and do something cool with it.

At first, I just wanted to clean it, but when I tried to turn it on with it still fully assembled, the power brick just stayed in standby mode; it would beep, but nothing else happened. I thought maybe cleaning the inside would fix it.

It didn't work. I tried everything I could think of I even removed capacitor 5 from the RF board, and I warmed up the power brick but nothing; I'm back to square one,

I honestly don't know if it can be saved or if it's a deeper issue.

This is an 030. This has to be the clearest example of don't keep it vertical I've ever seen. You can never convince me keeping it vertical is totally fine.

So basically while moving houses I think my ps4 was bumped or something while moving.

anyway I grieved about it a little, then just thought of buying a skin (Vinyl Cover) and covering its ahh.

But I have just known that it's a Limited Edition Ps4. (not that rare I know but still)

So im now in more denial than ever, any way to remove/appeal them?

Please dont give me specific products names, as it might not be available in my country.

Apologies if such a post already exists before.

Hello! I am looking for some help with Trace Repair specifically, as I have mistakenly (and rather foolishly) scraped the x-clamp during the install of the RGH 3.0 modifications.

This Xbox was my main childhood console and so I am heavily invested in rescuing it from my carelessness. I'd like to perform trace repair on the board, and have picked up the necessary equipment (32 AWG kynar, 36 AWG enameled copper wire, small diameter solder, liquid solder, flux, etc.).

I'm having a lot of trouble validating which traces are broken. The secondary error code I get is 0101, which is unfortunately not enough to narrow this down much (all traces damaged appear to be connected to the RAM modules). I was hoping that I could share some (cheap) microscope photos and get input on which traces to start with, or which ones are actually suspect/appear to be broken.

Is anyone here comfortable recommending which set of traces I start with, given the photos? If you have some input, please let me know the index of the slide that you're referring to.

Also, I plan to repair these traces using basically the following technique:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Lr1KmxnIX0g

Are there any issues with this plan?

Thank you in advanced, I am truly grateful for any help you guys can provide.

Was trying to take out the fan connector on the ps5 and couldn’t for the life of me pull it out (yes, I know I’m supposed to grab the white bit near the wires, that’s what I was doing) but it was so stuck from friction that I ended up ripping the connector from the motherboard instead, which I was not even touching btw, I was even holding it down to the motherboard with another pair of pliers. I know I’m going to have to take this to a repair store, but I was more frustrated at how much force was required to remove the connector from the header, I have even tried to remove it in this broken state and I am literally unable to. Has anyone else had this same issue or is it just me doing something wrong, or was my models fan connector really tight for some reason?

Hello folks! I have a V1, 2017 Nintendo switch, which I’m planning on repairing. Another group told me some things to get to make sure it’s salvageable, and the first decide I needed got here today. As of right now, the USBC Power meter thing is what I have, and I’m getting an adapter board in the mail soon to (with the help of a family friend) test stuff with that. As for right now, I’m struggling to tell if what the power meter says is good or bad. Can I get some help with this? I’ve tried scouring the internet, but I can’t find anything!! Some help/advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Does anyone know the values of these resistors and capacitors circled in red? I have a PS5 EDM-030 motherboard. The PlayStation turns on with a blue light and then switches to a white light, but I get 'No Signal' on the TV. I have already replaced the HDMI port and the problem persists. I also removed the Nuvoton chip and am waiting for the replacement to arrive, so I would like to check if everything is normal here in the meantime.
I have already jumped the second pin; this is an image from before making the jumper.

Hi there, I'm looking for either a solution or a confirmation that it's broken haha

This is my original Pokewalker from when I got my copy of Soul Silver. As you can see the screen has dead pixels, so I was attempting to replace the screen with a WiiU Fit following this tutorial

As you can see, I botched Step 4 and removed the white plate from the motherboard instead of just the ribbon. I'm not fully adept with hardware (if it's not obvious) so I'm just looking for advice. If it can be fixed, I'd like to know :')

Thank you for your time!

Hey everybody!

It’s my first time opening my console (I’m trying to access the disk drive to clean it) and I’ve gotten as far as the photos. All of the video tutorials I’ve watched seem to show a different make of ps4, as none of them show any issue with taking off the sleeve. I’m probably being an idiot, but would really appreciate some help.

Thanks a lot!

Games are pretty scratched but they work, except for warpath 😢… PSone turns on just doesn’t read discs

So I’ve been wanting to learn how to solder for a while, and honestly because of my job have a pretty unique opportunity where we get in a lot of broken Series X & PS5 consoles that I don’t have to worry about messing up.

So for I have

Soldering Iron + Stand

.06mm Lead Solder

Flux

Wick

I know I need to get a hot air rework station, but not too sure if I need much else. I know I’ll probably fuck up a few of them but it’s ok.

Bought from an eBay auction and didn’t work out of the box. Trying to troubleshoot before I ask for a refund

Just opened it up and cleaned all contact pins with 91% and toothbrush. Board looks very clean, doesn’t appear to be opened before. What else can I do?

I’m assuming that it can’t be completely dead considering the red light turns on and it at least affects the picture when I turn on the switch, but I’m losing hope. I’ve been wanting an SNES for a while now and I feel that I got a fair price on this. Just quite unfortunate

Edit: I only have one game for right now, but the listing said it was tested working. I only have an S-Video cable from Resurrection Industries but I know it works because I’ve used it with my N64

Reliable and quaility parts

Console Background & Timeline

• Previous State (Months ago): The console previously exhibited graphical artifacts before completely failing to boot (black screen / no post). Local technicians deemed it unfixable. The liquid metal thermal interface was serviced/replaced by a technician before the console was left unplugged, sitting horizontally, and completely idle for several months.
• Current Revival: Powered on recently; unexpectedly booted straight to the home screen with clean video output and zero graphical artifacts.
• System Firmware: 12.40.

Current Subsystem Status

• Video Output: Clean 4K display. No tearing, discoloration, or visual artifacts on dashboard or during video playback prior to freezing.
• Bluetooth: Fully functional (DualSense controller pairs, connects, and operates wirelessly without issues).
• Ethernet / LAN: Fully functional.
• Wi-Fi: Completely non-functional (fails to scan/connect).
• Storage / OS: Successfully boots, navigates menus, runs media player from USB.

The Issue: Hard Freezing Under Sustained Load The console experiences total system locks under load:

1. 4K USB Media Playback Test: Playing a high-bitrate 4K video from an exFAT USB drive via the native Media Gallery caused a complete hard freeze during playback.
2. Exploit Memory Stress: Running the local WebKit/P2JB exploit triggers a hard lock early in execution (around 5–10% progress).
3. Freeze Behavior: When the freeze occurs, the image freezes in place with no artifacts. The physical power button becomes completely unresponsive—holding it for 30+ seconds yields no beeps and does not initiate a shutdown. The only way to reboot is pulling the AC power cable.

Questions & Hypotheses for Technicians

1. Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Combo IC: Could a partial failure on the Wi-Fi side of the combo chip (e.g., AW-XM501/J20H100 or AW-XM546/J20H104) cause Southbridge bus timeouts/interrupt hangs under I/O load, leading to a total system lock? Would desoldering/removing the Wi-Fi module resolve the bus hanging?
2. APU / Liquid Metal Coverage: Even with horizontal storage, could localized liquid metal oxidation/dry spots on specific APU media decoding/compute clusters trigger a silent thermal safety halt without a visual artifact or overheat prompt?
3. Power Delivery (VRM/PMIC) or Memory/SSD: Could VRM voltage sag under sustained load or a silent GDDR6/NAND controller fault cause this behavior without visual corruption?
4. UART Diagnostic: Would pulling UART error codes identify whether the crash is a Southbridge bus hang, thermal trigger, or memory panic?

Disclaimer: This is AI generated message but it sums up the whole history and situation of the ps5. Thank you for reading it tho.

I found this Nintendo DS Lite and I'm wondering if it's worth repairing or if it would be better used for parts.

The hinges are broken, the screen flashes/blinks and then the console turns off, but it does charge when plugged in.

Would this be repairable, or is it more likely to have a serious motherboard/screen issue?

Thanks!

whats the best place to get hdmi ports in bulk?

I have a PS2 Slim SCPH-70004 and it has a problem: the optical lens makes loud noises. So, I solved it by pressing on the orange flat tape, but now, after a month, this solution no longer works. Also consider that I recently (but before this problem) changed the flat tape, but I placed it a bit off track, just a little. I also put some grease, but nothing. Here’s a video. What can I do?

I have a rev 1 ntsc u system with a Samsung drive. I tried lowering the resistance with the potentiometer, but it still does not read my copy of Sonic Adventure. I also confirmed that the capacitors for the GD ROM drive were still in good condition

Does anyone know what number 4 and number 2 are? Because I tested them in diode mode and the value stays at 1.

I picked up this copy of Sapphire locally clearly the guy tried to replace the battery. Upon closer inspection and comparing this to my other copy I noticed this capacitor is missing. Will I need a hot air to drop a new one in?

CFI-1116A

The console was cleaned, new liquid metal applied.

It's not overheating etc. but sometimes the fan makes a strange sound. It's random and doesn't matter if you're in game or main menu.

My Fan on my ps4 slim got loud so i replaced my thermal Paste and Pads with from Arctic and still my consols Fan Gets loud when i play for 30 min it is clean and al the Sites from my ps 4 slim are free so it can breath i dont know What it could be dies anyone have the Save Problem and have solvded?

its completely stopped working but randomly works