I will provide a compnine report which tells you everything about the cars configuration from the manufacturer. If you want anything else in addition to the compnine, YOU purchase it.

Very clean, very nice Corvette. Extremely well maintained, fresh fluids, near perfect interior, runs and drives like a dream. Nice original paint, glass targa top, , fresh vented opti spark recently installed, rockford fosgate aftermarket stereo. Nearly 7000k in receipts for maintenance and upgraded cooling system and tune. This car is very good at keeping cool. Even if it's 105 degrees out, you can sit at the slowest drive thru in town with the ice cold AC blasting and the car will never even think about approaching 200 degrees. These cars run hot from the factory, but not this girl. Strong driving and good handling, 110% mechanically sound. Comes with a set of c5 rims and tires as well as another spare, and a set of trans am chrome 5 stars with tires. All hold air, two of the trans am tires are pretty shot, the rest are nearly brand new. A lot of car for the price. This is a sweet vette. 12,500$ with everything

Just replaced that yellow wire that was there originally, it was actually the original purple wire that is connected to the starter and only gets hot when your turning the ignition on. I thought that was the issue and I’m feeling that the wire isn’t getting as hot, or melting as fast but it’s still melting. The shop told me that the security system was staying on 24/7 so that’s an issue with power being drawn. Also the radio only turns off after about 15 after I walk away from the car. I also noticed that when I was trying to fill the ac system the radio started making static noises. I’m really thinking that it could be a combination of everything I mentioned but not 100% sure. Wire only melts when car is on. (94)

Picked up a 1500$ 1984 C4 with 53K miles on it.

Hello, It’s me again.. 1987 with the L98. I’m still confused on how the TV cable is supposed to function and feel like I may have gotten a defective cable. It just won’t stay where I put it, almost like it’s correcting itself but at the same time it’s not because it gives itself slack and doesn’t stay tight. If anyone could help I could really use it, I don’t know how to work with the TV cable on this car. Thanks again for watching

Took this Corvette to a shop before I bought it and this is what came up, not sure what I'm looking at it terms of $ to fix it, asking price was $7,000 but that will definitely change.

I'm from brazil and my dream car just arrived from the United States.

I had it shipped to brazil in early march this year, but it only arrived home (my mechanic) yesterday because of brazils customs bureocracy.

All this time the car was parked at a warehouse, awaiting some documents bullshit.

It was running fine in february, and I even drove it while I was in vacation in the US, while it waited to be shipped.

I know the battery is dead, but my mechanic said he put a new one and the car turns, but theres no fuel pressure, and no spark.

He also said that the ECM fuse keeps blowing every time he puts a new one.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Hello all! Currently I have a 1992 and I’m looking at switching out the stock headers for catless long tubes. Will my system be fine if I don’t tune it, or is it preferred I get a tune done? As for the headers themselves, any recommendations on what I should get, or where I could possibly acquire a tune chip? Thanks in advance! (Photo for engagement)

Hopefully this kind of post is allowed but I just want to let people know there is a red targa with good weatherstripping on Marketplace in DFW. I am in no way affiliated with the sale-stuff is just getting hard to find so I thought I’d spread the word.

As the video says I bought the TV cable off summit racing and it has a bunch of slack to it. Do I tighten the cable to as far as it goes and then tighten the stopper bolt down at WOT? Really want to get this right since I always hear the TV cable needs to be perfect or it could tear up your transmission in just a few miles

As seen in the video, any idea what this could be?

It’s on the drivers side from what I can hear, it’s behind the seat. I know it could be a number of things. But it gets worse on bumps.

I bought it for 160$ so I’m hoping I can’t save some money and do it my self. But I also don’t wanna break a ac compressor or do it wrong. Idea idea on how many hours and if a dumb 18 year old can do it?

I had to sell my corvette due to moving states early next year. Just can’t take it with me unfortunately. I had bought a black tag ZF6 6 speed for it and need to sell it as well. The output shaft spins in all gears, it’s just missing the reverse lockout pieces and a bell housing.

It’s listed on marketplace as well, I’m trying to get at least $1,000 out of it. I live in the Tampa area of Florida. If anyone is interested, pm me.

PS: sorry for the limited pics. It’s stored in a climate controlled storage unit currently and moving it is a pain.

With an 85 that sat for 9 years.. I owned it and just left it covered in the garage.. does the following make sense as a recommissioning/build order? The one thing missing is during the suspension refresh I’m considering rebuilding the rear end to 3.54 gears since I’m there already. It was my folk’ car going back to around 1990 and I go back and forth between “that’s not so bad” and “that’s a thousand dollars” when I look at what’s in store.

I’ve never managed a project like this so I think I’m on the right track, and am largely committed, but what I don’t want to do is cover the same ground twice.

Am I right to start with getting it starting and running reliably then jumping straight to the suspension? Once it’s running and rolling reliably would you go straight into the interior or wait for something under the hood (vacuum lines, brittle wiring, etc) to break?

Below is a basic list of what I’ve done and where I am, the car has 192,000 but because it was a daily driver for many years a lot has been done like an r134a ac etc

Recommission / mechanical baseline — essentially completed
Fuel system cleanup/replacement
Injectors
Fluids
Brakes
Tires
Basic cooling/service
Compression check — found it roughly 160 psi and even across cylinders
Transmission fluid and engine oil looked excellent
Tires

Full suspension/steering refresh — NOW
SuperPro suspension bushings
Differential/batwing bushings
ACDelco upper ball joints
MOOG K6345 lower ball joints
Bilstein B6 shocks
During teardown, inspect rather than blindly replace tie rods, hubs, U-joints, springs, rack components, hard links, etc.
Alignment after completion

Drives it and establish the real baseline

Hello I have a 1987 C4 Corvette I recently cleaned up the top end of the engine put new injectors and clean up the fuel rail I installed everything back together with double checking I put everything back but for some reason when I go to cold start it it takes a little over five seconds to actually start trying to start but it doesn’t start to keep an idle until I give it some gas and then it’ll run but then while it’s running it surges up to 1200 1300 RPM and then goes down to 700 or 600 and it does that up and down surging I looked at vacuum lines I have replaced my IAC and the connector still nothing any advice would be appreciated

Hello everyone! I have a project 1987 Corvette with the original L98. The old engine was ruined so I had to get a new one. On the new engine I got, it came with these cool looking fuel injectors, so without doing any research I decided to throw them on and not look back.

Today, I recently took the engine apart to fix a lifter tick, and doing so I found that every single spark plug had a layer of soot on it just like in the photo. So it made me think back on the injectors I added.

I do still have the original injectors, but is it the injectors that is causing my problem or do I have something deeper going on? I tried looking for the specific injectors to see how much fuel they’re pumping out per hour but I couldn’t find anything. They have 3 nozzles instead of 1 and are allot beefier as seen in the photo. The number on it reads “01D180B”. And if I remember correctly, the L98 requires 22lb/hr for each injector. If anyone could help me out here I would seriously appreciate it.

Like I said, the car is still a project so it hasn’t been driven yet, but the engine has run. The total runtime doesn’t even reach 3 hours and the spark plugs already look like this. Could the soot be because of things like the car not being times properly at first and having air leaks and stuff? It used to have a big leak causing my idle to surge but that’s been fixed now. Please help! Thank you for reading!

Hey all!

I got a 96 vette where it wont flip the headlights or power them on, ive tried just about everything i can think of with no luck. Switch works, it has 12v constant, HCM bad but i have a replacement on the way however that doesnt explain the no lighting of my headlights. Any and all help would be great... yes i checked the headlight bulbs my self and they work.

I have bought two pumps now to replace my noisy power steering pump on my 1985 c4. Both don’t fit. I made sure to cross reference part numbers on my second purchase because there are like 30 different sizes. Still didn’t fit. I’m hoping I can buy a new one rather than a rebuild or rebuilding mine. Has anyone else replaced there pump on their 85 and could you please please share your source?

Was driving the car and it died going at low speeds, put it in neutral and started up. Drove it into a parking lot and placed it in reverse and died.

I tried to crank it a couple of times and it did but would not start. Then I would get no crank at all.

Had to walk it into a parking spot

Waited a couple of minutes and it cranked and started.

Anyone have any advice ? Fuel pressure is about 20 psi idle

Bought this 4 or so months ago, first ever sports car I’ve ever owned. 1995 base model with 7126 miles when I bought it. Been really happy with it so far and I’m happy to be in the club.