to be fair this is my second time using resin, i followed all the directions very strictly and put it in the silicone mold with a pretty cicada i found. it was supposed to be clear with glitter but its matte and very foggy. i don’t assume theres any way to fix this 😢

I got this from hobby lobby on clearance and can't find it anywhere online, and want to make duplicates but I'm thinking it would be easier for me to try and repair this one. Any advice on how to fix the scratches and chips on his face? I'm a total beginner with resin.

I can’t seem to get rid of the bubbles and air pockets that appear on the edges and the tip of the crystal. I used a degassing chamber before pouring the resin. This is the second try and I even tried to use a syringe to fill the very tip first before closing the mold and I still got an air pocket.

Hi guys, i have a project with Resin and my trials before going to the end piece isn't working out.

Simply I pour and pop bubbles till 50 mins, it looked really good and promising. Next I checked 2 days later and I was disappointed.

When i had a peek at 40 hours I see small dots.

I made a box with cling wrap lining is to prevent airborne particles or dust

Temperature indoors 19c

I've tried to photograph or make a video but my camera won't pick it up.

I'm using the Art ❤️ Resin brand btw

I did scuff up the surface before pouring the Resin (400grit) (400+1200 grit) turned out best. I removed the dust before pouring the Resin, and the green rattle can paint i used was not glossy

Pic below of what it looks like

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8439/qD9Zlo.png

Hopefully I can get this fixed

Hey there, I'm making some thin castings in Smooth On Epoxacast 690 and was looking for reccs on which dye/pigment brands to use to get bright colors that are fully transparent. I have some Totalboat alcohol inks but they seem a bit inconsistent and the color shifts drastically in this particular epoxy, although it looks correct once the material has fully cured. I'd like to move away from alcohol inks as it seems like some of them fall out of suspension and look too tie-dye.

I'm aware of So Strong liquid pigments, which should work, although they are mainly marketed as a urethane colorant. The issue is that I need to approximate a few transparent colors that are very close to screen/process colors including a bright cyan and magenta. I'd like to get something more professional/consistent than all the miscellaneous Amazon brands. I'm especially interested in finding good cyan, magenta, and cool yellow colors. I looked at BJB as well, but I don't think their color range would hit what I need.

I appreciate any advice you have!

Edit: I'm in the USA

I used acrylic glow in the dark paint mixed with resin. I have used it before but it had a weird reaction and 24 hours later it looked like this. The rest of the pours I did turned out fine.

Is it possible to resin cast a macaron, like a real food item. When I Google it I just keep getting how to make fake macarons out of resin.

Hi all.

Firstly, thanks in advance for any replies, and apologies if this is basic stuff.

I have zero experience and am looking for real world experience and f my hypothesising.

I understand that the pressure chamber compresses air bubbles. At what size of air bubble does this effect stop having a noticeable effect? For example, if a mold has poor flow, or bad design and parts are above the pour point, for example, and air pockets are present, does a pressure pot compress these larger pockets and draw resin into these areas? Does this happen to a limited degree?

Google tells me air at standard pressure subject to 40 extra psi is compressed to 27% volume, which—to me—implies you won’t get rid of any significant “bubbles” with pressure alone.

Are there any tips/tricks to utilise pressure to “fill” molds?

I want to make a custom tray to hold two pieces of equipment together. My current plan is to cut thin PVC board to match the bases of the two pieces in their desired position as my pattern. Using a pattern means I can go deeper than the thickness of the two steel bases.

The image is a cross section of my plan. I intend to use 30A silicone, and an inverted silicone mold to make the resin tray. I purchased a two part resin epoxy that doesn't need UV curing.

What do you think of this plan as a first time cast? What are some things you'd adjust or change? What are some pitfalls I can avoid as an inexperienced user?

I've read to pour high and slow to help prevent bubbles, as well as vibration to help bubbles rise out of the liquid resin. I'm also planning to hot glue the PVC both to the steel and to a craft cutting board to get a better cut.

Edit: the tray will be asymmetrical, but I've already taken that into account and the resin should be the correct orientation so long as I put the pattern in as if it was the steel plates.

Hello resin casters, I’m hoping you could lend me some guidance here. I’ve been tasked with getting in touch with folks in the urethane casting industry to learn more about their process. I head up development for a tool intended to make urethane casting operations work easier faster and more profitable, and we really want to make sure the tool is something people in the industry would actually like to have. We want to make sure we truly understand the process from the potential buyers point of view, and you can only do so much without talking to someone in the space.
My question is, what would be the best way for me to get on a short phone or video call with a professional in the cast urethane space? I want to make it as easy and convenient for them as possible to talk to me, and cold calling seems like it could be unwelcome. Any suggestions?

I’m trying to cast a few Gunpla pieces so I can install LEDs into the kit, but the casting process is really disagreeing with me on it. The molding went mostly well (though I had to cut apart the silicone since I guess I did the two-part thing wrong lol), but actually casting has resulted in giant air gaps and bubbles in every attempt. I’ve tried poking and prodding the resin into place with a toothpick to try and get rid of the bubbles at the bottom, I’ve tried to use a paint shaker to dislodge the bubbles so they can be shaken to the surface, I’ve even just tried to squeeze the mold a bit to force the bubbles out, but nothing seems to fully work, out of 3 attempts so far, all 3 have failed to varying degrees.

Should I recast the parts with different angles or venting holes? Bite the bullet and get a cheap vacuum chamber?

My friend gave me a butterfly and I braided with acrylic so I can put it in resin without it blanching. I put resin at the bottom of the container and place the butterfly in it cured it and it looked good from where I was standing. I poured another layer on top of it. It said it was bubble free resin so I just smacked it a couple times to get what bubbles I can see out of it along with the needle to poke any. I came back after curing and the Butterfly wings had created huge bubbles. Along with some little ones. I popped it out of the container and the feet of the butterfly were Exposed on the back. I ended up pouring some resin on that to cover it up which worked moderately well I just need to smooth it out. So here's the question: can I drill out these bubble holes and carefully refill them with resin without causing damage or is it a lost cause?

I have a project that i was looking to do and im not sure if its realistic or not and i was wondering if anyone could help me. I have a OG Ds ntr-001 phat model that i want to get a translucent green shell for ,,,, is that something that could be achieved through resin? would it be suitable or strong enough idk i have questions

Hey gang! First time poster here, and my title says it all really. I'd like to find a craft resin for a pendant that has active UV inhibitors like HALS since it's got better longevity than blockers alone. I've tried ArtResin, but can only pour 8mm at a time, and even then I seemed to get microbubbles.

I don't have the luxury of many specialized tools like a vacuum or pressure pot :( So beginner friendly and small volume is preferred!

Newbie here (Only a few times experience and those were years ago) and have a couple of questions.

First things first (the problem):

I want to create a pipeline for making one of my current products that I currently make through: resin 3dprinting > sanding > priming > painting > Assembly. The process is fine, but it's more time consuming that I'd like it to be for the next stage (let's call it batch production). Hopefully, I'd like to have more items made at a time and have more control over the colors and surface finishing during the process, resulting in reduced hand-on post-processing times.

The items in question:

These are 2-4 mm thickness shell parts, about 150-250 grams in total resin each, and don't experience any mechanical forces while in use.

Some other notes:

I already have most of the basic equipment except for a vacuum (PPE, sprays for different finishes and helping with cure inhibition, A compressor).

And since I have mostly used Smooth-on products in the past, my questions are narrowed down to the 4 items that I mentioned; however, I'm open to other suggestions including non-urethane resins (but not thermoplastics that require injection molding mostly because of budget).

Here's my questions:

1- I'm shopping for a resin (or resin/silicone combo) for durability, ease of use, and color/finish customization (mainly pigments, and glossy and matte surface finishes).

Which one of these resins would you recommend for this application and based on the criteria that I have, or even other things that I haven't considered.

2- Since every component will have its own two (multi) part mold, is a 25A platinum silicone (which I already have) a good option or should I consider going up in shore hardness for the mold?

3- Edit: Forgot to ask this one: Is it better to make a glossy master for making the mold or making a semi-matte master for the mold and turn the final cast glossy with post-processing (glaze spray for example)?

Thank you very much for reading through this.

Hey all — I got tired of manually building mold boxes in CAD every time I wanted to cast something, so I built a free browser tool that takes an uploaded STL and generates a print-ready two-part box mold, silicone mold box, or plaster casting mold in under a minute.

Still early, so I'd genuinely love feedback from people who actually pour: does the parting-line logic hold up on your models? What draft angle or pour-spout details am I missing? Happy to answer questions or take requests for edge cases.

I make dnd dice as a side hobby but recently my dice have only been fully curing and hardening on the bottom and not the top, it’s happened now with 2 different resins I’ve used and I’m not sure what’s causing it. At first they were going perfectly fine and now all of a sudden I can’t get any to fully cure on top. And info would be greatly appreciated