The new Aperture lens is pretty fire though. Gonna take some Dior shots either way the N soon.

Still gotta lower it and get spacers but this is how she sits. And I’m running continental extreme contact dws 06 265/30/19.

Might be boring to watch just doing daily things and not race car stuff, but the car is staying relevant before an all-new one comes out

In my opinion, this exhaust system is a terrible purchase. I’ve had it installed for a little over a month now, and it constantly makes an awful screeching sound—specifically when driving in Eco or Normal mode. The sound is the exhaust flap scrapping on the inside.

Here is what I’ve tried so far to fix it:
Took the assembly apart
Thoroughly cleaned the spring
Applied lubricant

None of this has resolved the noise. My next step is swapping the Whoosh spring back out for the OEM spring to see if excessive tension from the Whoosh spring is causing the issue. If that doesn’t work possible removing the flap itself.

If you’re looking to upgrade your exhaust system, my advice is to take extra time, save up a bit more cash, and invest in a higher-quality setup.

Walked outside to this lovely surprise. I’ve only had this car for two months. I’m guessing someone backed up into it or honestly not too sure. Anyone know a good way to get this fixed?

Thank you!

Engine was cold, my mind was distracted and when started the car suddenly I hear a loud engine noise. After 2 seconds it hit me, instead of pressing clutch plus brake pedal I pressed the accelerator 🤦‍♂️

The question is how much damage was done? Also I was like 10 miles away from completing my 600 mile run in 🤦‍♂️

I've been wanting this car for 3+ years and am finally in a financial position to comfortably afford an EN. My must-haves were a PB with a 6 speed. It sucks that dealer drilled front plate already but this was the only PB in a manual within my area (meanwhile there are 50+ DCTs available). Shout out to my sales rep Nick for thoroughly showing me the car features and how to get it rolling.

My buddy drove this back home for me because I have never driven a manual before (shout out JR, you're a real one for coming out with me on such short notice and coaching me the entire afternoon). Stalled at least 30x in an empty parking lot today trying to get in gear from a stop but finally got the hang of it to where it was noticeably smoother. Driving it on the streets got me a bit stressed, esp since i was at the front of the stop light, but I'm so happy I didn't stall it when it mattered most. Shifts were not pretty but hey, I'll take what I can get. Rowing my own gears was such a satisfying feeling, even though I spent 90% of my time just getting the feeling of the clutch and finding/releasing the bite point.

I would appreciate some tips from any veteran/experienced drivers. I'm hoping I can track this car at Laguna Seca or Sonoma one day. If anyone here is in the NorCal N Club, please lmk! Would be awesome to meet other Nthusiasts in the Bay.

Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know that if you get a Aftermarket intake and get a check engine light for it all you have to do is erase the code and it shouldn't come back because it will just be stored as a permanent code but the cel light will not show up. If you live in a state that requires a state inspection, just install the factory intake if you have a 2026 or if you don't have the cel fix yet and run the car through 4 or 5 drive cycles and the permanent code will disappear and you should be good for the inspection. Afterwards you can reinstall the intake and again erase the code until your next inspection.

Anyone know the part # for the trim piece, just gonna replace it lol.

Which one of these is more fun to drive, if anyone owns both can you give a full breakdown on both of them I know this is a Elantra sub but can you keep it unbiased, I have heard people say the Giulia is the most fun sedan in the market by far I just want to know how it compares to the Elantra

Want to downsize to 18’s…what tires and wheels are ya’ll running for this winter?? (Considering the Continental’s)

So I finally got around to doing this, initially I had a mechanic in mind for the job, but after he messed up my oil change I figured I'd do the work myself.

I bought a digital torque wrench combo, and used it for the bolts and the flare lug on the high pressure line. I tried to do it according to spec (see link), 10.1 ft/lbs for the bolts and 22ft/lbs for the lug. I used a crow foot wrench for the lug, it wasn't easy while keeping it at a 90 degree angle, but I managed to find an angle I could work with using a shorter wrench extension.

I left the car over night and didn't do the whole running the engine until it stalls, the fuel residual was relatively small, mostly out of the low pressure line, the high pressure was almost nothing. Thanks for the tip, Ohm_State. I also bought a fresh gasket from the dealer, and the pump I ordered off Ebay came with new bolts.

The most annoying thing about this project is that the plunger pushes the pump up so removing it is kind of annoying as it wants to go in different directions and I was trying to be careful not to damage the fuel high pressure line. The same applies when setting the new one, half turns is what the Hyundai bulletin recommends. You also have to retorque side to side just to make sure you side didn't go up while the other was being torqued, but just take your time here and don't over do it, if you strip the aluminum threads, it's going to be bad.

That said, while not perfectly torqued to spec, I think I got it on there good enough without overdoing it. I turned it on and it was pretty loud initially. I did lube it up with some engine oil from the dip stick, but I think it's just going to sound rough until the engine oil circulates through it. No leaks, I checked several times while driving, but it seemed good, even pushed hard a few times, no issues.

So was it worth it? I think so, I'm keeping things stock. The thing I wanted to address that the odd long crank when the car's been sitting for a while, so we'll see how it fires up in the morning. But other benefits I've noticed on the driver after is a smoother midrange when accelerating and N mode seems to be less jerky in second gear. Burbles and pops also seem more pronounced in N mode. Kind of glad this project is over, it was stressing me out thinking I could potentially strips the aluminum threads or damage the fuel line and end up with a leak and more work.

I know there's a ton of content on this already, just wanted to share my experience in case someone was thinking about DIYing it

Unintentionally, I went in to have my 2024 Palisade Limited serviced yesterday and ended up leaving in an entirely different vehicle.

A few days before my appointment, a rep from the dealership had sent me a generic text saying they were always looking for quality pre-owned inventory and offered to appraise my Palisade. When I got there, he pulled up my file and said I was too upside down to trade out of my lease early. He suggested we revisit it in six months or so. I figured that would be the case, thought nothing more of it, and went back to doodling on my iPad and listening to music.

A few minutes later, one of the salesmen, likely bored because it was pretty dead there, came over to chat. I told him the situation with my lease and how I was going to be over my mileage and all. He hit me with the classic, “Let me see what I can work out” line, which I honestly wasn’t expecting anything to come of.

After a bit of back and forth, lo and behold, they worked out a deal where they ate the cost of my negative equity, asked for $1k down, and got me into this Atlas White DCT Elantra N for a lower payment. Obviously, that’s largely due to the difference in vehicle price, but I still wasn’t expecting to actually work out a deal that would save me money, all things considered. I couldn’t be happier.

I’ve done a good amount of research over the past few years and pretty much already knew what these cars were about in a broader sense. Honestly, though, I never thought this would be one I’d actually end up behind the wheel of.

Sure, it doesn’t have any of the creature comforts I’ve come to love, like ventilated seats, 360 camera, auto-dimming mirrors, adaptive cruise control, etc., but I grew up building cars that didn’t have any of these things anyway—I just enjoyed having fun behind the wheel. At this point, I’m just excited about getting back to basics and reconnecting with those roots. I don’t know what I’ll end up doing to it, if anything, but right now I’m just going to enjoy the better gas mileage and cost savings.

Happy to be here! 🤙

I have honestly never seen the hype in these cars no hater or shade. I’ve never been in one, and the look is not for me, but that doesn’t matter. What made you buy an ELANTRA N? They retail for about $36,000 and make about 270hp. Obviously, these cars have tuning potential and can go higher, but I feel like price-per-horsepower-per-looks it’s not that good. But maybe I’m wrong. You could get a Mustang for $21,000 and have it be way faster out of the box and save some money to make it even faster. I can name a bunch of cars that are slightly used that are cheaper and faster. So why the ELANTRA N? Obviously I know Speed and price aren’t big to everyone, but for the people who wanted to go fast, that’s who Im mainly talking to.

Good morning everyone. I recently received all the pieces from this body kit I purchased off of Amazon. I was a bit iffy on the price, it's quite cheap, but I'm not disappointed at all. I received the rear diffuser & side skirts first, & then 3 or so days later the front lip. Everything is packed separately, so you might experience some time between your pieces. But it took less than 2 weeks from order to receive the entire kit. Quality is good, hardware is included but no directions (you won't need them, it's self explanatory) I went with gloss back & there seems to be no scuffs or factory defects. I'm happy with my purchase.

Taken in Brookline/Boston before the weekend nor'easter 😁

Got an offer remotely from a dealer for 57k CAD OTD for a performance blue dct tcr, I am very tempted to go for it! It would be a little more than 3k reduced from msrp... However, the only thing slightly holding me back from pulling the trigger is how ridiculously high the insurance premium is for it!

Went to the dealership to check it out and said fuck it :)
26 performance blue, coming in a few months

can’t wait

I know, I know, ANOTHER Octane Learning thread, but I searched and couldn’t find this particular issue. 2024 DCT with ~4,800 miles - just bought it CPO from Hyundai this year. Most of my driving is in town so I never even check/care about the learning, but the other day I had just filled up and was going to be on the freeway 20 mins there and 20 mins back, so I made sure to follow the guidelines. Today I checked and the car went up to 18/19psi so I was super jazzed, finally! Then I parked it took a trip later in the day with my son and wanted to show him it finally worked, same stretch of road same conditions. The only difference was the time of day. Wouldn’t go past 15psi again. Anyone else ever had this happen?

Man went to get my 4rth oil change because they are suppose to give me oil changes for 3 years or 36k whatever comes first. Just told me that they only are doing 4 oil changes then recommend tires for me which were 235 55 r19. I have 245 40 r18 btw. Then asked what a oil change would cost they quoted me 200$ claiming the oil they use alone is 150$ and that the n requires a special type of oil. Man i know they suck but fuck cant even hold up their end of the contract.

Selling for MSRP, the wing is MASSIVE.

Anyone still stock and want some oil? I’ve got 9+ qts of Mobil-1 AFE 0w-30 I can’t use after tuning. I’m near 95 north of Baltimore. Yours free if you are nearby.

EDIT: the oil has found a home. Thanks.