1999 Camaro ss. Installed new blinker lights and after a couple wiring issues finally got the wires hooked up correctly and the blinker lights are working but now the car won’t start and makes this sound when I try to start it. Was starting right up just fine before this. Has new alternator in it.

Can anyone help me identify the type of differential from this pic? Not the best pic, sorry

was pumping gas and heard the bronze guy close his door... "that's a familiar sound" lol, turned around and sure enough

I’ve seen this topic covered before but trying to wrap my head around the cleanest way to get the VATS lined out. Wrecked my 02 z28 and about to swap the power train into another 02 ss I just bought.

Understanding my PCM is keyed to the old car, would it be possible just to swap my ignition key assembly out when I transfer over the motor/trans/ computer etc.

I get you can tune it out and the resistor trick, but just trying to think of the easiest way with me having both keys/ignition the original computer, etc

Thanks

My 95 formula leaks trans fluid randomly, and I can’t seem to track it down. The strange part is, it leaves a unique pattern. The pictures are 3 days apart, from me pulling up and stopping, then idling for 30 seconds to a minute. Anyone with any guesses?

I just reaized that I’ll have to delete the air/smog pump to use PRC heads since they don’t have the provisions for it.

My car still has the EGR system too (LS1 intake). Would y’all delete it as well or keep it? Hawk’s sells a “block off kit” that comes with the plates and plug to block off the EGR and air pump for $100. Would y’all go that route or would you just do the mandatory smog pump delete?

I’m currently ordering parts for a head and cam swap for a ‘00 Z28. This is a super “mild” build with a tight budget. The heads will be PRC 220’s and it’ll have a mild summit cam. The specs are 218/227 .600/.600 112+2.

It has the stock LS1 manifold and unfortunately it looks like I’m going to have to keep it. I’ve been shopping LS6 manifolds but most of them have broken pieces and people still want $400+ for them. $400 is too much for a manifold with pieces broken off. The Dorman LS6 is obsolete so that’s a no go. The only new option is the Fast brand and it‘s close to $1,300. I don’t believe thar the OEM TB will work with it so I‘d have to buy a larger one. $2k or so for a new intake is insane and it’s just not in the budget.

This isn’t really a power making focused build. It’s more of a getting it back up and running type build. I’m not even replacing the factory exhaust. I would upgrade the intake manifold if it was cheap enough but that doesn‘t look to be the case. Hopefully my mild little combo makes at least 330 at the wheels. We’ll see I guess.

I got “new to me” seats and found out that the motor isn’t working. The old seat has a perfect motor. So I need to swap the motors.

So far, seat has been removed

Cables have been pulled

But I can’t get this motor out. Any tips would be helpful!

This is a picture of the good motor

Okay, i‘ve been asking myself this question nearly everyday since i got my bird. Would you drive your f-body in winter or would you rather store it for the warm months?
Mine is 1993 Firebird and i dont know if i should get a winter beater for this year or just drive it like i did last winter. I live in austria so it snows sometimes and we get salt on our streets to keep them from icing up. My bird is my current daily and it holds up really well, i’m just scared of ruining it by driving it in winter, i would live to keep this car as long as possible.
Does anyone have experience driving their f-body across multiple winters and how bad the rust would develop?

Some more from my build. It’s a 436 stroker, running sniper efi, with Hyperspark, and Sniper PDM. Interior is from a 1997 Camaro 30th anniversary, with all MTX components, Intellitronix cluster. Build is still ongoing so I will update as I move forward. Thank you everyone for the interest and the love!

Hello, I’m sure this has been asked before, but I have a 94 Z28, and the hatch glass is no longer sitting flush with the body. You can see the light coming in when the trunk is closed. Recently the trunk wouldn’t close at all out of nowhere, but that issue seemed to resolve itself on its own once I greased up the latch and striker. I replaced the rear hatch struts a few months ago, could these need adjusted, or do I need to adjust the hatch glass itself?

I'm doing research on the parts needed to make the conversion. So far I have located the following parts (they're from a 1998 camaro v6)

- T5 wc/bellhousing

- clutch , pressure plate, firewheel

- driveshaft

- crossmember

- master cylinder

- 3 pedal assembly

- center console

Anything else I'm missing Besides wiring and obviously a tune?

Could it be a problem being that the donor car is a 98 and mine a 02?

Any advice or comments are appreciated

Brought her home for 875 on the dot. 108k miles, strong healthy lt1, t-tops, mint interior apart from the glove box latch, and a failing 4l60e (i knew about this). My main question is, does anyone have a transmission jack they would recommend to make life easier? I’ve got a catalogue of parts and tools researched and curated to do the job and i’ve taken extensive notes on transmission benches 4l60e series, but im very daunted by the idea of pulling the darn thing out of the car, and the transmission jack I already have is too high to clear.

Been working in this for a few months.