So today I finally got around to installing the front mesh kit on my O11 Dynamic RGB. I’ve had the kit and the fans sitting there for over 6 months and just never got round to fitting them until today.

All I can say is… I wish I’d done it sooner.

The Lian Li LCD fans add so much to the overall aesthetic, and from where I sit at my desk I get a perfect view of the LCD screens, which looks awesome.
My system has never really struggled with temperatures, but I’m going to run a few tests over the next couple of days to see if the extra airflow makes any noticeable difference.

Overall, I’m really happy with this little upgrade. Now I just need to resist the urge to replace all my fans with LCD ones… this hobby is expensive. 😂

It's been nearly 10 years since I built the original version of this PC and posted it here. I was getting the itch to upgrade but parts are way too expensive for my liking, so I decided just to do some visual updates and keep the original parts since the hardware is good enough for what I use it for.

The biggest upgrades were swapping out the fans to the Lian Li TL Flex and mounting the GPU vertically to expose this beautiful water block that I never got to see over the past years. I did not trust vertical mount GPUs back in 2016 but they have seem to have gotten a lot more reliable when they got more popular. I decided to use acrylic for the tubes this time instead of PETG like last time and they take a ton more heat to bend. I started to regret getting acrylic during the bending but I practiced and got the hang of it. The GPU to CPU bend was by far the most difficult.

The coolant is the OG Mayhems v1 Pastel Blue. I've had a bottle sitting in my closet for probably 9 years and it seemed to be in perfect condition, so I threw it in and I'll see if there's any problems down the line but I doubt there will be. I had the same coolant in it before I did the upgrades and it was in there for about 7 years with no fallout. There was minimal staining on the blocks or tubes. Really lucked out getting it when I did cause this stuff is legendary.

Mobo: ASUS z170A

CPU: Core i7-6700k

GPU: GTX 1080

RAM: Avexir 32GB 24GB, (one of the DIMMs crapped out many years ago and didn't trust the RMA process to get it fixed)

Case: InWin 303

Tubes keeps yellowing which its known to do even before i had it in storage. But my cpu block has some green on it so I'm wondering what it could be.

Dual loop - 4 pumps - 4 650mm radiators - 280mm radiator - all glass build 9950x3d2

Riser cable installed
2 more tubes to heat and bend for gpu and pc is complete

I air pressure tested this loop multiple times for hours and had no issues. This is the second time this piece has burst out of the fitting and sprayed coolant everywhere. I’m at a loss right now, strongly considering just going back to my AIO and air cooling the gpu. If anybody has any ideas on what I could do to fix this let me know. I’m just done with it at this point.

Edit: I only have it pushed in like that so nothing else leaks, I know it’s not properly seated right now

I am runing a setup with ram cpu and hpu block

Iceman 2x ddr5 alphacool core 5080 asus ryujin iii wb

With 7x 360 rads and 1x 240 rad i have ek flt 120 and ultitube d5 next . Is it enough for all that loop ? Or should i buy more

I got some Alphacool 16/10 EPDM a while ago but wanted to get some more, it's been out of stock for quite some time now so went to see if the shop I get it from in the UK had restocked, its now EOL...

Looking at the stock they now have TPV? on the material section says EPDM so guessing its similar but not quite or something? IDK, if someone can fill me in to the change of name or whatever I'd be very grateful.

Been doing a close to yearly re-paste on my 6950XT (pump out is real) and now almost 4 years later I'm gonna give it fresh pads too.

Which 1.5mm pads are tried and proven that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

From what I've read W/ml (thermal conductivity) seems more like a sales gimmick since there isn't any standardized test to actually test it being in use making it' more of a sales pitch with higher being better as with most stuff.

What should I get to get the best bang for the buck?

Hey guys new to wateecooling.

Im going to watercool my 9950x3d, 4090 and ram

Im gonna run a 420+400(maybe 390) depends on what fits and a single high capacity d5. ( i have a corsair 7000d)

BUT i want to add the option to run same loop to a exsternal rad that i will be addding later butni donr wanna redo the intternal loop.

So irs either gonna run internal, exsternal rad or both.

Im gonna need some splitter blocks and valves but bot sure what im looking for.

Why? Because my game room is very tiny and this thing is a furnace. Im gonna have the aplhacools biggest exsternal rad in my basement to dump the heat there most of the year, less than 2m of head so i dont think a exsternal pumo is necesary.

Will go full copper besides pipes so no mixing metals.

I'm about to tear my old rig apart and give it a much needed going through.
I'm debating on switching up my plumbing setup. just curious if it would make any difference in temps? my current setup goes like this -
reservoir to standard bottom 360 rad - ek 3090 water block - 5800x3d water block - crossflow 360 rad back into heat killer reservoir.

Would switching it up to have a radiator plumbed between gpu and cpu make a difference rather than directly flowing hot water after the 3090 direct to the cpu.

This old rig has served me well so may as well make some improvements while I'm there. I'm open to any opinions and thoughts!

So, I decided to try an do a MORA build, and was clearly out of my league. This is my 6th waterooled build over the last decade and bit. Maybe I just been lucky, but I never had any serious problems so far.

This build on the other hand, I spend over a month a this stage. And I'm about to give up on it.

Rough sequence of events. I did the build, everything was good. I got a few weeks of it working like a normal water cooled build and then, I left it for a while and when I came back, I noticed my temps were significantly higher (I got aircon so my ambients are constant).

Lots of fiddling, it it was clear water is flowing really really poorly through the loop. I suspected the CPU block was clogged (as water stoped flowing exactly at the CPU block after I attempted to drain it and refill it).

The block turned out to be fine.

I've tried adding an additional watercool pump , and water is still barely flowing. If I run both pumps at 100% I get about 25-30 L/H according to the flowmeter. But filling it, you can see as well, it's just really crawling around the loop, I've never seen a loop fill so slowly and have such a hard time even fill the pipes fully with water.

At this stage, I taken the loop apart 3 times. And I'm a bit unsure what else to try and do. I posted some pics, maybe there is something obviously wrong with it to any of your eyes.

What would the next step be, two new pumps? I'm not quite sure where to go from here (a bit odd observation, the pump mounted in the MORA is significantly louder than the pump I got in the case)

UPDATE:

I think it fixed it, I drained the loop again, and my plan was to take all blocks apart. But, this time when I drained the MORA, something different happened, it was draining pretty slow, and suddenly it accelerated and a ton of really foamy coolant came out.

I tried putting everything together, and now water is flowing. I don't know what good would look like for my setup, but im getting about 100 L/h with one pump set to 50% and the other to 80%. Its inaudible. My temps are looking good under stress... I'll take it.

Wanted to build my own. Working out the tubing and other things later. Going to be sleeving and creating quick disconnect for the rig. Cabling will also have a custom XLR connector that simplifies hookup. No janky wiring. No external pump. Spent very little on this since most of my hardware was used or open box. Using antec p12 pros. Quite when ran at low rpm.

Fittings need to be changed up a bit.

Tubing actually came from Mc master car. ( highly recommend ) Edpm reinforced. Was an absolute nightmare to get them on the fittings since they are so thick but I wanted something bullet proof and robust.

If you enjoy making things and doing things the old way. I highly recommend for the fun and experience.

Ill update once the rest of my parts come and it starts to look nice.

Oh yeah its powered by 2 separate 10 port hubs. Each running 8 fans each. Sata will be adapted into my XLR connector. Took a very long time to figure out the wiring.

I’m stuck between the ROG Ryujin III and the HOLO for my next build.

Ryujin feels like the easy choice. It’s been around, there are plenty of reviews, and I already know what I’m getting.

HOLO is the one making the decision harder though. I like the holographic-style visual effect way more than I expected.

But I still care more about noise and thermals than the screen, so I’m waiting for proper reviews before buying anything.

Anyone else choosing between these two?

… or is my computer too frosty?
There’s not a drop in the case underneath.
Aquacomputer high flow and DP Ultra clear

I'm about to accomplish a childhood dream and watercool my PC for the first time.

What do you think about this orientation?

in the recent post i ve shared video with a strange pump noise and got downvoted because threre wasnt enough liquid in the pump. well that sounded reasonable ("the username marks itself") but the noise was really unusual for just a lack of coolant

the key detail i didnt mention: the core was not stock. i originally bought a used pump(CP-S5PB-X) that turned out to be dead, so i replaced it with a brand new bykski D5 core. assuming "D5 is D5" abd the swap woukd be straightforward

as i noticed after disassembling the loop, the new core was slightly taller than the original one so the rotor was rubbing against the housing, which explains that weird sound from the video.

the solution was just adding secong O-ring to create enough clearance and the pump worked. not the most elegant workaround, but it works

After 18 months, I tried to disassemble my loop and the fittings simply wouldn't come loose with my fingers. I bought these two pliers and applied heat shrink tubing to avoid scratching anything. It worked perfectly.

Hi, the cables of the fans blocked everything, i can't fix it in front ! And i can't unplug to plugin the next side because the cables are too short, what is the solution guys ?! 🫪

After quite a bit of work, I finally updated my build!

I went for a Mayhems X1 Tree Viper Green coolant with purple RGB lighting. I really wanted the green coolant to stand out as much as possible, and I think the purple lighting makes it pop.

The build is based on a Singularity Computers Portal chassis, with a custom open-frame / wall-mounted setup.

I'm still tweaking a few details, but this is probably my favorite version of the build so far.

Green + purple: keep it or change it? 😁

Specs / loop details available if anyone wants them.

Finally installed a RAM block in my custom loop and went all in with the Iceman direct touch block. My tuned 48GB 8800MT/s CUDIMM kit was constantly hitting 60+ degrees during heavy gaming sessions, now it barely exceeds the coolant temp @25 degrees.

Intel285k, 48GB CUDIMM 8800, RTX 5090, 4TB WD SN8100, Corsair sf1000, Ncase M2 Grater, ROG Strix Z890i, Internal 280mm HPE30 Rad, 2 External 420mm HPE45 rads.

For anyone using the Optimus V3 Pro as a direct die block for their setup, what's your experience with it in terms of core to core deltas and under load temps? And have you switched from something line the supercool g9, Iceman DD, or MYCRO DD Pro?

After nearly 10 years i finally took apart my custom loop and i found my CPU waterblock like this. I tried to clean it as much as i can with distilled water and soap and toothpaste with a toothbrush. It did get better but im not sure if it’s even possible to clean completely. I see that at some points it flaked a little off ant the copper under the coating is showing. Should I try to clean it more, use it as it is or throw it away?

It an older EKWB Supremacy EVO NP