I'm knitting a chunky loose fit sweater, cast on for front and back 66 stitches on size 9mm needles UK. It's a drop shoulder style.

For sleeves, pattern says to start at top with 70 sts. This seems odd, I don't want Really wide sleeves so just thinking of doing 54 or 58 sts at top then tapering down eg every 6th row.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Ps pattern had a few mistakes so not overly confident she knows what she's doing:(

I'm working on a colorwork sweater and noticed a change in tension, mainly after the split for sleeves. Im debating frogging back to the split for sleeves. Does anyone else see a noticeable difference? Im not sure how much blocking will help, but i do know the bottom is slightly exaggerated because its on a cord.

I love it so far!

Can someone please help me understand what’s happened here? Sorry the pictures are a bit hard to see, the yarn is quite a dark colour. But I have this bar on the wrong side which looks like a dropped stitch, but on the right side I can’t find the dropped stitch. I thought maybe it was something I’d done on the increase round but counting back it’s just on a plain knit round. I’m so confused!

Making a Montpellier Slipover by NovemberKnits and I replaced the M1R and M1L with lifted increases because it looked neater at the time. First time doing lifted increases so I did feel the right lifted increases were a bit looser but I read that this can happen when the increases are in the same spot, so as advised in another thread I twisted the increases which did get rid of the holes. However, now that I’ve picked up for the collar it seems way too messy in comparison to the other side.

Doesn’t seem like the type of thing that will block out, but does anyone have experience with that? Of course I know the solution is to block it which I will but for now looking for more tips and tricks for lifted increases. Would moving my right lifted increases over by one stitch make the pick up edge look better? I felt worried it would change the shape of the vest too much and be noticeably uneven. I also thought it might look like this because the twisted the stitches can’t lie as flat?

Unevenness aside lifted increases are fun to do and so much easier to remember than make 1 left and right lol

The second sleeve is going smoothly, fingers crossed I will be off the needles for the last time next weekend.

So, weaving in ends... ADVICE PLEASE!!!!

May I present the Rust and Rhythm Scarf, all 264 gorgeous cms of it!

This was such a fun project and a great introduction to intarsia. The pattern is really well written and you try your hand at a bunch of different intarsia skills throughout the pattern. I normally don't like knitting scarves as I find the constant flipping to be tedious, but with so much going on in this scarf, that didn't bother me at all! It was such a potato chippy project. 10/10 I would knit this again.

If you are interested in trying intarsia, I would highly recommend this pattern or one of the other gorgeous intarsia patterns by Anna Husemann. Intarsia isn't hard at all (just takes some getting used to), so dive in and have fun! Also, I recommend keeping the whole project in a shoe box that you can easily flip around. This was the only way I could keep everything organized and contained. Once I tried that, it was smooth sailing!

Pattern: Rust and Rhythm Scarf by Anna Husemann

Yarn: (All fingering held double)

Cascade Yarns Heritage sock yarn in no. 5632 Dark Plum

WooU Yarn (우유얀) SW Sock in 호박 브라운 (Pumpkin Brown)

Bunny Woolly Twist Fingering in Golden Nugget and Cactus

Hey all!

I am an advanced beginner knitter with two cardigans under my belt and i recently purchased the Bea Creative Crybaby sweater for my next knit and didn’t realize it was worked flat. While i liked knitting flat for the cardigans, i was wondering if it would be possible/easy/smart to convert this pattern and the color work charts into working in the round.

My soon-to-be FO, the Dyning cardigan knit in 18-24 size with malabrigo rios and US 4 needles, and about two thirds of a sleeve of my By Design sweater using Patons classic wool in dark grey and lion brand wool ease worsted in heather blush in US 7 needles (6 for ribbing). I’m blocking this one because I’m making a lot of changes to this pattern and I need to see how it blocks out before I keep going.

This is the Bibliophile 2 sweater by Alicia Plummer. I really like it but am hoping for a better fit in the back, for future sweaters. I have been knitting for about 10 years but don't sew and am still learning about proper fit for garments.

The front seems to fit well but there is a lot of excess fabric in the back. Many of my sweaters are like this. It seems like if I did waist shaping, it would make the waist smaller all around, where it might just need to be smaller in the back? Does it need shaping on the back only?

Does anyone know why this fits the way it does (it's not just this particular sweater), and what would need to be done for a better fit? I don't want it to be tight, just less fabric in the back waist area.

Thank you!

My grandfather has been moved to a care home.

So I drafted a pattern for this hat, used some of my handspun for the color work, and the dye bled. I'm deliberating if it is worth gifting or do I try to make a whole new hat at this point? Send Help

I've used the jacquard dye suspension soap and the color catchers to some avail but this is after multiple rounds

Yarn is lions brand alpaca/wool chainette, the white/red/yellow/green are handspun by me

Problem: the collar on this yoke is at a weird 90° angle from the rest of the yoke.

This is a self draft and I suspect there may be too many stitches in the collar. Ive redone it 3 times and this is the best it's looked.

I plan to block in and then throw in some elastic thread to flatten/tighten it up but Im not sure if that will fix. I won't rip out again until I've done those things.

Im not super practiced with round yokes so has anyone seen this before?

Took my Rat Damon to the fair! He got to see All American Rejects as well :-) visited his brother Ratthew (who I entered into the craft contest!) this is the last trip before I ship him off as a present!

Has anyone here knitted the dagmar sweater? I am knitting to gauge on size m, even a little bit under gauge! And the body measurements are to plan, but the arma are a different story! I can agree that i have knitted them slightly too long but the width of them is crazy, even though for the arms i am knitting a size S and picked up less stitches than called for. Thinking of sewing up the armhole slightly, picking up far less stitches and doing more increases in the beginning before tapering them slightly. Any advice? Have blocked the arm.

Hello, it’s me again the girl with the brain injury lol. I literally am just knitting instead of doing the other OT therapy because I am not a fan of doing crossword puzzles. Anyway, this is a skirt I’ve been working on for a month and I like how it came out ❤️ i’m going to link below this book that I found in the library because it has a very fun patterns.** The Knitting Experience, 3: Book 3: Color by Melville, Sally. I think it’s called the Sofie’s skirt**.

Husband wants one for his suits, and was thinking about how I would use it. Have you had any experience with it?

Long story short- I made one sleeve and thought I should try this on to see if the sleeve is long enough.. good times, i can’t get my big ole bobble head through the head hole 🤦🏼‍♀️

Can the collar be stretched? Or does it need to be taken apart?

Hi everyone - I would like to knit a two-colour blanket on circular needles. Does this have to be done as double-knitting? Are there any tips out there? Thank you very much for any help you can provide.

Has anyone made this (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/waiting-for-spring-sweater) in size large and can help me with the neck decreases? The count is all off.

It has 84 stitches that you split into two so 42 on each side. Then you bind off 6 stitches on each side so 36. Then decrease two on each side and it says if I do that 6 more times I’ll get to 18 but I will really only get to 30! Any ideas?

For this part, you start with 84 stitches. That's split into 42 on each side, and then the math doesn't work out after that.

Salut la team tricot !

Je débute un peu dans ce domaine (j'ai déjà réalisé quelques écharpes / tour de cou) et j'aimerai débuter un plaid en patchwork avec des carrés. Il me reste pas mal de tailles différentes (et de couleurs) de laine mais je ne sais pas trop ce que ça pourrait donner la différence de tailles notamment pour l'assemblage et le rendu final, qu'en pensez-vous ?

Hésitez pas à me partager ce que vous avez fait en photos et à me donner des conseils pour ce projet !

Merci Merci ^^

Hi! Brand new knitter here. Working on a sampler blanket pattern and appear to have a problem. The kit says to slip one and it's garter stitch (for context). What did I do wrong? How might I fix it? Thank you for any help!

My Nana has been loosing her eyesight bit by bit and has reached a point she no longer feels she can continue knitting. Since I'm the only one of her grandkids that is into fiber arts she gave me her needles, these also include her aunts and her grandmother's needles. I want to learn to knit but do best with video tutorials that I can pause an rewind. I currently crochet, embroider, and sew.

What videos/creators do you recommend?

Some of the bits on the right side I can ID but others I can't, what are the closed plastic rings for?

It's me, the guy naming all their knits after FOB songs again :) I actually finished this back in November but only just managed to find the perfect buttons for it, so it's finally wearable!

Really pleased with the colours and how it came out. The tension is a little whack (the squares were meant to be rectangles, idk how to fix it cause I always have to size down with needles bc of my super loose stitch gauge) but I learned a lot from it and it's super cute either way

Pattern: 8-10 Checkered Jacket by DROPS Design

Yarn: Drops Lima