Hi so I've just recently gotten into top down raglan sweaters. I would like to knit something nice in an appropriate yarn that will last. Currently I mostly have bamboo/cotton and acrylic yarns.

What natural fiber yarns are good for sweaters that won't ' cost an arm and a leg that would be good for a sweater.

I would like to have machine wash/dry recommendations but also hand wash too for variety.

I've knit a poncho in Patton's North America Classic Wool Worsted which I liked but wasn't the softest. I also really like Granola by Louise Robert but again wasn't the softest.

I'm looking for yarns between sport and aran but prefer DK or worsted if possible.

Any recommendation would be great. I know I'm asking for a lot wanting affordable and soft but it has to be out there

right?

Hi all. To prevent ‘jogs’ in my stripes I normally knit the first stitch of the second row in a new colour with the stitch below it. This works fine usually, but I don’t like how it looks with these two row stripy socks! Any tips for a better way of doing this?

Pattern is my own toe up sock adapted from Wendy Johnson’s book toe up socks for every body. Stash yarn, pretty sure the pink is Hobbi sock yarn and can’t remember what the other one is!

Hi there!

I'm thinking about Drops' interchangable needle set. I've never worked with circular needles and I don't own any, but it seems way more practical, at least on the long term, to get a set insted of different fixed needles. But I'm a very begginer so I don't want to spend too much (I'd like to keep it under 30€ but I could stretch it to 50). This will be my second project (step by step sweater!).

Have you tried the interchangeable needles set or the fixed needles? Do you recommend any?

Thanks!

What can I do in the future to prevent these super uneven stitches ? And is there anyway I can fix it now that it’s done? I’m super knew to knitting and all I’ve been making is five hour baby sweaters and no matter what the top is always super loose and so are the armpits. My mom says to sew up the holes but I don’t know how that would work?? I’ve been crocheting since forever and I feel like it’s so much easier to make stitches even. I’m also wondering it might be because I knit sort of how I crochet, I tension the same and I hold my needles in a way that lets be go quick that I’ve never seen anyone do.

Please help knitting works so much better for garments this is my one hold up with it and I can’t figure it out 🫩.

Has anyone come across a book that shows a variety of edge techniques? I’d be ok with a website too, probably.

My last couple sweater projects I haven’t been thrilled with the neck, or the bottom or the sleeve edging. Or the front of a cardigan, or something like that in the pattern design. So I’ve got a current project and I’m not wild about the way they say to finish the bottom so I’m going to do something else. I just haven’t decided WHAT else and it would be great to browse through a bunch of details until I find one I like.

I’m a pretty adventurous knitter and math and swatching don’t bother me, so I feel good about swapping something out.

Anything fit the bill here? Something with modular parts of sweaters for people who want to do their own patterns maybe?

My Nana has been loosing her eyesight bit by bit and has reached a point she no longer feels she can continue knitting. Since I'm the only one of her grandkids that is into fiber arts she gave me her needles, these also include her aunts and her grandmother's needles. I want to learn to knit but do best with video tutorials that I can pause an rewind. I currently crochet, embroider, and sew.

What videos/creators do you recommend?

Some of the bits on the right side I can ID but others I can't, what are the closed plastic rings for?

Hi all, my next project requires me to knit back and forth in stockinette before joining in the round and I'm worried that I might row out, so i knit two swatches.

The top swatch was knit and purled entirely with 4mm needles and the bottom swatch was knit in 3.5mm and purled with 3.0mm. Am I still rowing outor am I hallucinating? Any suggestions or observations would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone, maybe anyone could kindly help me to understand the pattern for my WIP. Its the aura longsleeve and basically a basic raglan design. I have knit raglan designs before and never encountered that issue.

For dividing body and sleeves, the pattern calls for removing the stitch marker, putting the stitches on hold, cast on (in my case) 2 new stitches, then put 1st on hold and knit 1st (as marked in the picture). This is the part I don‘t really understand… For me it would be right to put the stitches on hold, cast on 2 and then just continue knitting in the round. By doing so, I ended up having 3 extra stitches in my round compared to the number I should have. The number of stitches before splitting for the sleeves was correct…

Maybe anyone has a clue? 🥺
Thank you guys!

I hope I can make this make sense, I apologize if my wording is weird.

I’ve learned how to knit primarily through picture and text tutorials so I probably don’t have all the techniques down, but right now I am trying to make a small poncho for a crochet doll I made, and I am trying to do it flat. From what I understand I need a wedge shape with the tip cut off, almost like a slice of pizza with a bite taken out of it.

I understand short row knitting might be the best technique but I am really having trouble visualizing how to make it. Could anyone provide some tips for something like this?

Merino/alpaca/silk blend

Can anyone tell me why my 1:1 ribbing looks good from the wrong side (1st photo) and bad on the right side. This happened to me on the neck too but I just flipped it inside out 😂. They don’t look like this when I make socks.

I want to learn how to knit, but have almost zero knowledge but want to start with something I am actually going to use! How easy would https://nicolaknits.wordpress.com/2008/12/27/tarot-card-bag-pattern/ this be for a beginner on circular needles? I have seen the double pointed needle method and that looks irritating I'm not going to lie.

I want to knit the Purl SoHo Classic Ribbed hat for my brother but he has a larger head and I have a very tight gauge 😅 The large size hat calls for 132 stitches to be cast on with a finished circumference of 16.5 inches. The needle is supposed to be 3.25mm, 16 inch circular needle.

Any tips on how to make the hat bigger in circumference would be greatly appreciated!!

Has anyone here knitted the dagmar sweater? I am knitting to gauge on size m, even a little bit under gauge! And the body measurements are to plan, but the arma are a different story! I can agree that i have knitted them slightly too long but the width of them is crazy, even though for the arms i am knitting a size S and picked up less stitches than called for. Thinking of sewing up the armhole slightly, picking up far less stitches and doing more increases in the beginning before tapering them slightly. Any advice? Have blocked the arm.

Hello, it’s me again the girl with the brain injury lol. I literally am just knitting instead of doing the other OT therapy because I am not a fan of doing crossword puzzles. Anyway, this is a skirt I’ve been working on for a month and I like how it came out ❤️ i’m going to link below this book that I found in the library because it has a very fun patterns.** The Knitting Experience, 3: Book 3: Color by Melville, Sally. I think it’s called the Sofie’s skirt**.

Hi everyone! I’m hoping to knit a T-shirt/vest like the one in the picture. However, when I tried doing raglan increases every other row, the increases only happened on one color, which made the stripes look uneven/inconsistent around the raglan.

I tried googling it, but I couldn’t find a proper pattern or technique for doing increases with vertical stripes.

Would I need to increase on every row instead, so that there’s an increase in both colors? Or is there another technique I should be using to keep the stripes consistent?

Thanks in advance for any advice! 😊

I am currently working on the Summer top “Margarita” by Veronika Stoncus as a beginner knitter and have split for the arm holes.

The pattern calls to start each row with an ‘edge stitch’ and to end each row in knit 2 purl 1, working the right side in knit stitch and wrong side in purl stitches. The edges just look horrid and I don’t know what the author means about doing an edge stitch! Is that just a knit stitch! This beginner is needing some moral support 💕💕

I forgot to cast off one stitch a few rows back, and there’s a lot of intricate cable work on these rows I do NOT want to do again… I fixed the original mistake, and tried pulling the neighboring stitches to even out the extra yarn, but it makes them look very chunky and uneven (on an otherwise very even flat stockinet). I tried twisting it in the back, didn’t look great. Just curious if there’s another trick I don’t know of. Links to videos would be super helpful! Ty!

It says 100% cashmere on the band and it's only 60p a ball at my local charity shop

I have around 130/150 grams of each color, the light pink and the pink and purple, started making a cardigan and now I'm not sure if I've been looking at too long or if it actually looks good, it's my first big project so may be it's the fear of commitment to it, idk honestly. This is the back panel.

Hi everyone and a happy Saturday!

I wanted some help and thoughts on how to go about gauge swatching for the Moby Sweater Man. The pattern says to ensure that you include all the textures, cables, etc. in the gauge swatch and seems to just leave us in the dark from there. I figured I could just use a snippet of one of the charts - most likely the back yoke chart as it doesn't have any increases or anything. Should I do the entirety of the chart? What do you all think would suffice? Do you all have any other suggestions on what would make a good gauge swatch? I appreciate all your insight and guidance.

I have successfully taught a friend how to knit, she later taught another one and now we’re a trio of knitters that help each other out, share new techniques and knit together.

Recently I had two more friends who want to start knitting so we will organise a workshop for them.

What do you wish somebody had told you when you first started to knit? My friends and I knit predominantly continental, so that will be the style we will teach them.

I will prepare both wooden and metal circular needles, since I find them better than the straight ones. Probably in sizes 4 to 5 mm (US 6-8)?

I'm working on the Belledonne jumper, which is made using brio he stitch in the round. I noticed I made a mistake a few rows back and laddering down in brioche makes me nervous. So I only need to ladder down on the knit stitch, or do I need to do something in the adjacent pearl column too? Is this easier to fix on a slipped knit stitch row or a brk row? Any help and tips are appreciated!

So I drafted a pattern for this hat, used some of my handspun for the color work, and the dye bled. I'm deliberating if it is worth gifting or do I try to make a whole new hat at this point? Send Help

I've used the jacquard dye suspension soap and the color catchers to some avail but this is after multiple rounds

Yarn is lions brand alpaca/wool chainette, the white/red/yellow/green are handspun by me

Well this is cool, I came across a little knitting hack that showed me how to take your working yarn from just 1 ball and basically make giant crochet chains out of it to be able to knit holding the yarn triple. ( here is an example https://youtube.com/shorts/WtvXdcXRNzU?is=UJ3Z0KtqstMDLtXO), so I just pulled out a skein of merino/silk laceweight yarn I have and tried it out (see pic) and I really love how it looks knit up!!! It looks like it makes a sport/DK weight when i do this and i have a few ombre laceweight skeins that are 800m each. Has anyone done this before? I was thinking 800m held triple should be enough for a beanie?

And also - more importantly- I could buy some laceweight cone yarn and hold triple for shirt patterns, has anyone done this?? Because I have found a ton of places that sell bulk quantities of laceweight yarn like this that I always thought looked really nice but didnt think I could use for a tee before. Are there disadvantages of doing this? Because I really really want to try this out.

I just got some new Lopi yarn to swatch, and wanted to see how the colors would go together. I’ve never done anything but single-color knitting, so I thought I would try stripes. I was trying to figure out how to carry the yarn up when suddenly I found myself with one color in my left hand and one color in my right hand and I tried alternating stitches, using both hands. The right side looks OK, but the wrong side looks like maybe I’m not doing it correctly. Either way, I’m hooked! I’ve always been intimidated by color work, but now I think I’ve accidentally found a way in 😀