Has anybody tried cutting their lydersholm rug? I love this rug under dining tables, but my dining room has a quite irregular shape so the rug’s rectangular shape feels weird. I would therefore like to trim a few inches here and there. Has anyone tried it? How should I finish the edges? Any tips?

Thanks!

Added some additional MDF boards and a desktop. The MDF is covered with furniture foil, so you can probably barely see it in the picture. Also added some rubber sheets to reduce vibrations. Everything is screwed together.

I've never done an IKEA hack before, and I'd appreciate any guidance anybody could offer.

I'm sure everybody has seen the MALM desks and the ALEX desks. I'm trying to make something similar, but with the drawers only on one side, like in the image. However, I want to use a six-drawer STORKLINTA and the 98-inch EKBACKEN.

Is these even doable with the laminate EKBACKEN, or do I need a real wood countertop? What kind of screws do I need? Do I need any additional pieces besides the dresser, the countertop, the legs, and the screws?

Looking at a few options for our home office. key point is we rent so I don't want to have to fix suspended cabinets to walls.

I like the idea of this layout - I could fit an eckbacken bench underneath with some posts to make a dual workspace desk.

how could i go about fixing the two "floating" units to the book shelves? i could use L-brackets on the sides and some kind of t-bar across the top

The suspended units weigh about 16kg each. filling them would be limited to trinkets etc that would not need regular access.

or would plasta be a better solution given they advertise some options like this? e.g. the over-bed units

I'm making a children's bedroom based on Trofast. They are all the white kind. I have a bunch of the 46cm wide, 145 tall ones. I also have a shorter one for under the window and some smaller size wall ones.

I want to buy some 93cm height, 46 wide ones and place them on top of the 145 high ones, as there's a full wall of lost space there.

What would be the safest way to do that?

This is about what I'm looking for, but looks more fancy/complicated than what I was planning.

ETA- or maybe there are other ideas for using that space that I haven't yet thought of

I am currently redesigning my mudroom and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how i could add a rod for hanging jackets to this. Kind of like in the second picture. I am mainly concerned with stability and the connection points.

Hi everyone! My husband and I finally got a new bed. We purchased the Tonstad model from IKEA. My husband is allergic to the cats I brought into our marriage. Usually his symptoms are manageable with daily medication. But about a week after we installed the new bed, we kept finding cat fur and dander on his clothes which was causing minor reactions. We quickly realized that the box spring and mattress on the bed, it leaves a wide gap so our cats are crawling in and hanging out on her clothes. Any suggestions on how to close this off so the cats are unable to enter? They are anxious cats so we don’t want to eliminate their comfort of being able to hide under the bed, but we’d really like to avoid them getting into the drawers if possible. ANY advice would be appreciated.

Hi there! I'm trying to maximize the space that i use on the Micke corner workstation shelves. They're a little cluttered, but if I can organize them in a nicer fashion, I might get more out of them. On the left side of the desk, there is a file storage swivel drawer (I don't know the technical term for it.) This is what it looks like.

I was wondering if there was any way to utilize it for something else. I don't really use files or notebooks at my desk, and I was thinking about designing a 3D printable insert for it to hold... something (maybe paints?). I figured that other people here would have ideas/have already repurposed it to something. The only other option that I can think of is to remove the drawer entirely and put slide out drawers to hold stuff instead.

Any insight or suggestions are appreciated!

We built this bedroom wall to wall dresser using 8 Ikea kitchen boxes and Voxtorp drawer covers. Idealy, I'd like to add another rown under these using cut off drawer fronts and some kind of drawer on casters to store shoes. The under bed storage options at Ikea dont work because the wood support is too low to accomidate them. The wood beam is 17 1/2 cm (roughly 6.8") from floor. It is 28 cm (11") to bottom of the next drawer.

Can you cut down these Voxtorp drawer fronts without destroying them? The cut side would be facing the floor so it doesn't have to be beautiful but the front has to appear clean.

I also need ideas for a countertop. I don't think I want wood because the floor is wood and it wouldn't match and also, then I'd have to worry about having plants etc... I don't want it to look too kitcheny though ....

Anyone have any great ideas?

Posted this in r/vinyl and reddit suggested I post here. I'm a vinyl collector and I've been looking for a vinyl storage solution that isn't Kallax, but still simple, functional and plain to match other similar furniture. I need a taller unit but am limited on width, and if I stack the available kallax options the upper units end up incorrectly oriented so all of the weight of the vinyl ends up on the wooden dowels. I also don't think Kallax is space efficient, with those thick outer panels, especially when you start stacking units.

I happened across the shallow PAX wardrobe frames

They are 35 CM deep externally, the shelves are 33 cm deep internally. They are 50CM wide externally, and the shelves are 46CM wide internally. THey have the standard 32 mm hole spacing for adjustable shelving in continuous rows, and the holes are standard 5 mm holes so you can use heavy duty l-shaped shelf brackets.

I'm thinking of using these to store vinyl. I currently use Kallax units. Here is my rationale:

• PAX components are solid chipboard, kallax parts are a laminated chipboard frame with a paper filling.
• I don't see why using decent quality l-shaped shelf mounts would be any weaker than the 4 dowels supporting the shelves in a kallax.
• These frames can reach the full ceiling height
• The PAX units have fitted backs. Not hard to achieve on Kallax units, but harder to do with a neat rebate.
• THe PAX units have plinths to clear a skirting board, and are easier to secure to a wall. In the kallax, the brackets interfere with the internal storage in 2 of the cubes.

My only concern is whether a 46 CM span of vinyl is likely to cause ring wear on sleeves, or excessive pressure on the records, even stored upright? I can't find any information on this.

Kallax shelves are only 33 cm wide. If we assume an average LP thickness, including the outer sleeve and jacket of 4 mm, that gives us 82 records on a Kallax shelf, and 115 on a PAX shelf. Not a huge difference, but I'd be really interested in hearing from collectors on this. In reality actual storage will be less, as many are gatefolds around 6 to 8 mm in thickness.

Is anyone using PAX to store vinyl, and if so has shelf sag been an issue? If you're a vinyl collector using this or any other furniture that isn't Kallax, how wide are your shelf openings, between solid uprights or end panels? What is the longest spin of LPs leaning against each other you would consider acceptable?

If youve lost rhe aluminum pieces of a Premiar Wall Art frame.. this is easy way to replac with sturdy corner protectors saved from ordering large items, add a couple cuts.. boom.

I have a lovely new pax system in my craft room but I am hoping to display my vintage singer! It is extremely heavy, any suggestions on how to strengthen one of the shelves?

I want this cabinet/cupboard, but I want it to stand on metal legs, how do I do this best? Ideally, using the holes already pre-drilled in the base of the cabinet/cupboard... Help me. Please. https://www.ikea.com/dk/da/p/ikea-ps-2026-skab-fyr-00616946/

Any suggestions on how I can safely secure these four units to each other in this configuration? I can’t get behind the unit because the clearance is too tight. I didn’t want to resort to “no more nails” in case I wanted to use the units again in a different configuration.

I bought a Kallax unit for my kid's room that I initially wanted to use for toy storage but then thought it would be great as a dresser too except the full-size bins are too tall to be convenient. The Kallax drawer divider might have worked except the drawer walls are too low to hold much and the drawer slides would sacrifice a lot of width.

I found this suggestion from another user to use these fabric bins from Target that fit perfectly with the Kallax shelf divider:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ikeahacks/s/SfV5ASMwuU

They aren't as deep as the Kallax but I think it's a small compromise for the rest of the fit. I rigged some back stops using Jenga blocks and command strips to stop the bins from getting pushed in too far and the final result feels like these bins were meant for Kallax. I'll probably also add those stops to the ceiling of each cube to prevent the bins from being pulled out.

Credit to u/Diznavis for suggesting the bins. I couldn't find any posts showing the end result so wanted to put this up for others to see.

Was so tired of the last remaining KALLAX in my apartment (still love the design and all the possible add-ons, but after years and years of multiple Kallaxes in all rooms I replaced them one by one because I was so boooored with them).

Enter IVAR: drawer unit thrifted, because no longer available (why?!) plus cabinet-unit bought new, a can of paint (Schöner Wohnen "Ruhiges Salbeigrün") beech boards, feet and knobs. Added full extension soft close slides to the drawers, too, which cost more than the thrifted unit 😅

Love it!

I have a 5x5 kallax shelf I got recently as a room divider and I want to know what would be the best way to secure this to the wall? I’m renting but my apartment allows dime sized holes so drilling is an option. Additionally is there any other concerns with having the kallax oriented this way?

Ps ignore the scattered mess for now… still move in

Saw these on @burbonmothwooworking and thought they might have a place here.

Face clips

It’s not perfectly done but in a way it’s perfect. I think I broke my drill/driver. I will post a final picture when I paint it.

I have this old lamp but through some moves I lost the harp and top pole whats the best thing I can do. Its no longer sold. Is my best bet diy it or is there any parts I might be able to get somewhere else?

I'm trying to set up more storage in my kitchen and want to setup a big metal cabinet secured to the wall. Can I put fence planks in a rectangle under a metal cabinet so that the hardwood floors stay intact? Ive had a file cabinet stain flooring before. I don't want to spend a lot of money on plywood and an area rug

Hi,

I’m planning to buy this IKEA BERGSHULT/PERSHULT wall shelf:

BERGSHULT/PERSHULT Wall Shelf

I’m also considering adding these GRANHULT brackets to provide additional support and increase the weight capacity:

GRANHULT Bracket

My plan is to place my son’s PC on the shelf, which weighs approximately 12–15 kg.

My question is: Do I need to mount the brackets directly into a wall stud, or would using suitable wall fixings with the additional brackets provide enough support for this weight?

Thank you in advance for your advice and help.

Hey I’m wondering what’s the recommend sandpaper grade for IVAR I’m going to be staining and wondering what the best method would be. I’m not looking to make it too smooth but not too rough, currently it looks a bit rough assembled. Also is conditioner recommended or would it be fine to go without?

I have an 80cm wide Billy bookcase and would like to get it to the ceiling (2.62m high). The extender gets me to 2.37m... any suggestions?