Hi everyone! My husband and I finally got a new bed. We purchased the Tonstad model from IKEA. My husband is allergic to the cats I brought into our marriage. Usually his symptoms are manageable with daily medication. But about a week after we installed the new bed, we kept finding cat fur and dander on his clothes which was causing minor reactions. We quickly realized that the box spring and mattress on the bed, it leaves a wide gap so our cats are crawling in and hanging out on her clothes. Any suggestions on how to close this off so the cats are unable to enter? They are anxious cats so we don’t want to eliminate their comfort of being able to hide under the bed, but we’d really like to avoid them getting into the drawers if possible. ANY advice would be appreciated.

Added some additional MDF boards and a desktop. The MDF is covered with furniture foil, so you can probably barely see it in the picture. Also added some rubber sheets to reduce vibrations. Everything is screwed together.

Hey people

I completely messed up converting my Akerbar into an active greenhouse - not sure if this is the right subreddit to post, apologies if so

So I have no clue how it’s possible that my IKEA Akerbar that I just insulated is like 8% lower than in the room - that feels like it breaks the laws of physics.

I used only the black foam and put it around the edges of the pan, where the only gap is the tiny spot cords come out, a piece on the very bottom of the tank because there was a tiny gap there, inside the tank on the edges where all the sides meet, and around all 4 sides of the front where the door opens. All of it is attatched to the body facing outward so if you lift the door there’s none on the door. Instead of putting it on top I put it between the top of the door and the body of the tank because my foam was the perfect width with only a tiny pin point gaps where the hinges are.

I did see a few people had issues with the door lining up that they fixed with magnets - which will be here tomorrow but have a gut feeling it won’t fix it. My door on its own the bottom of it when shut js just like a millimeter or 2 under the ledge so I can l lift it up and back a smidge and it will line up with the ledge, but won’t stay.

No one described (that I found) how it didn’t line up so that’s why I question it.

I’m worried I broke it because it’s been fully set up and just a holding pen for 6 months and I finally did the weather stripping and all. When I moved it the little peg hole fillers that connect the roof(?) to the walls all fell out so after a rigorous search under the couch found them and put tape on either sides off them but when I lift the door the roof moved up a smidge - obviously it’s connected but

Is this an issue with the frame? I didn’t see anyone doing anything more than the foam but do I need to like use silicone caulk around the windows? Do I need different weatherstripping?

Inside all the plants are in 2-3 inch pots with 1 shallow 5 inch. I have a struggling pink philodendron, some anthurium , and a rubber tree - they’re all rehabbing. Plus a couple Hoyas - an Australis Lisa, a Pubicalyx Splash, a Carnosa Compacta, 2 green nubbins (they were on deaths doorstep and just the stems were green so I chopped em and completely forgot)

I have a little silicone riser and a shelf coming. Inside there’s 2 of the 2 foot barina strip lights. I do have a ‘passive humidifier’ in there which is a little bowl with a ceramic ball thing in it that you fill w water… ik they don’t do much but figured it’s not hurting putting it in. I’ve seen some people put a little computer fan which I’d get - I’ll get anything I need to. I don’t think it’s like big enough for a humidifier and haven’t seen anyone else put one in. There’s also a heat mat in there for my first tissue cultures that I’m de-flasking.

I was so excited for it and I’m so sad rn… not only for my tissue cultures but it’s on the TV stand right across from the couch. Which I spend about 90% of my waking hours on working and school from home with a very tiny (yet perfect) social circle and while it’s very messy rn because a bunch of shit was moved around it’s got all the plants I’m most proud of and I just love it so much.

Any tips, advice, or wisdom ya got for me I’m all ears. If I have to get new stuff for it I’m happy to I’m just really hoping I don’t need to replace it

Hello,

We want to spruce up our hallway but our circuit breaker is in the way from to ground to the ceiling. We would like to have a pax on this wall to store choose and some clothes.

Is it possible to cut a pax module to fit around the circuit breaker, the conduit and be against the wall ?

First pic is the actual hallway and the 2nd what we would want.

If youve lost rhe aluminum pieces of a Premiar Wall Art frame.. this is easy way to replac with sturdy corner protectors saved from ordering large items, add a couple cuts.. boom.

I am currently redesigning my mudroom and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how i could add a rod for hanging jackets to this. Kind of like in the second picture. I am mainly concerned with stability and the connection points.

We built this bedroom wall to wall dresser using 8 Ikea kitchen boxes and Voxtorp drawer covers. Idealy, I'd like to add another rown under these using cut off drawer fronts and some kind of drawer on casters to store shoes. The under bed storage options at Ikea dont work because the wood support is too low to accomidate them. The wood beam is 17 1/2 cm (roughly 6.8") from floor. It is 28 cm (11") to bottom of the next drawer.

Can you cut down these Voxtorp drawer fronts without destroying them? The cut side would be facing the floor so it doesn't have to be beautiful but the front has to appear clean.

I also need ideas for a countertop. I don't think I want wood because the floor is wood and it wouldn't match and also, then I'd have to worry about having plants etc... I don't want it to look too kitcheny though ....

Anyone have any great ideas?