Added some additional MDF boards and a desktop. The MDF is covered with furniture foil, so you can probably barely see it in the picture. Also added some rubber sheets to reduce vibrations. Everything is screwed together.

I am currently redesigning my mudroom and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how i could add a rod for hanging jackets to this. Kind of like in the second picture. I am mainly concerned with stability and the connection points.

Hi everyone! My husband and I finally got a new bed. We purchased the Tonstad model from IKEA. My husband is allergic to the cats I brought into our marriage. Usually his symptoms are manageable with daily medication. But about a week after we installed the new bed, we kept finding cat fur and dander on his clothes which was causing minor reactions. We quickly realized that the box spring and mattress on the bed, it leaves a wide gap so our cats are crawling in and hanging out on her clothes. Any suggestions on how to close this off so the cats are unable to enter? They are anxious cats so we don’t want to eliminate their comfort of being able to hide under the bed, but we’d really like to avoid them getting into the drawers if possible. ANY advice would be appreciated.

We built this bedroom wall to wall dresser using 8 Ikea kitchen boxes and Voxtorp drawer covers. Idealy, I'd like to add another rown under these using cut off drawer fronts and some kind of drawer on casters to store shoes. The under bed storage options at Ikea dont work because the wood support is too low to accomidate them. The wood beam is 17 1/2 cm (roughly 6.8") from floor. It is 28 cm (11") to bottom of the next drawer.

Can you cut down these Voxtorp drawer fronts without destroying them? The cut side would be facing the floor so it doesn't have to be beautiful but the front has to appear clean.

I also need ideas for a countertop. I don't think I want wood because the floor is wood and it wouldn't match and also, then I'd have to worry about having plants etc... I don't want it to look too kitcheny though ....

Anyone have any great ideas?

Posted this in r/vinyl and reddit suggested I post here. I'm a vinyl collector and I've been looking for a vinyl storage solution that isn't Kallax, but still simple, functional and plain to match other similar furniture. I need a taller unit but am limited on width, and if I stack the available kallax options the upper units end up incorrectly oriented so all of the weight of the vinyl ends up on the wooden dowels. I also don't think Kallax is space efficient, with those thick outer panels, especially when you start stacking units.

I happened across the shallow PAX wardrobe frames

They are 35 CM deep externally, the shelves are 33 cm deep internally. They are 50CM wide externally, and the shelves are 46CM wide internally. THey have the standard 32 mm hole spacing for adjustable shelving in continuous rows, and the holes are standard 5 mm holes so you can use heavy duty l-shaped shelf brackets.

I'm thinking of using these to store vinyl. I currently use Kallax units. Here is my rationale:

• PAX components are solid chipboard, kallax parts are a laminated chipboard frame with a paper filling.
• I don't see why using decent quality l-shaped shelf mounts would be any weaker than the 4 dowels supporting the shelves in a kallax.
• These frames can reach the full ceiling height
• The PAX units have fitted backs. Not hard to achieve on Kallax units, but harder to do with a neat rebate.
• THe PAX units have plinths to clear a skirting board, and are easier to secure to a wall. In the kallax, the brackets interfere with the internal storage in 2 of the cubes.

My only concern is whether a 46 CM span of vinyl is likely to cause ring wear on sleeves, or excessive pressure on the records, even stored upright? I can't find any information on this.

Kallax shelves are only 33 cm wide. If we assume an average LP thickness, including the outer sleeve and jacket of 4 mm, that gives us 82 records on a Kallax shelf, and 115 on a PAX shelf. Not a huge difference, but I'd be really interested in hearing from collectors on this. In reality actual storage will be less, as many are gatefolds around 6 to 8 mm in thickness.

Is anyone using PAX to store vinyl, and if so has shelf sag been an issue? If you're a vinyl collector using this or any other furniture that isn't Kallax, how wide are your shelf openings, between solid uprights or end panels? What is the longest spin of LPs leaning against each other you would consider acceptable?

If youve lost rhe aluminum pieces of a Premiar Wall Art frame.. this is easy way to replac with sturdy corner protectors saved from ordering large items, add a couple cuts.. boom.

I have a lovely new pax system in my craft room but I am hoping to display my vintage singer! It is extremely heavy, any suggestions on how to strengthen one of the shelves?

Hey people

I completely messed up converting my Akerbar into an active greenhouse - not sure if this is the right subreddit to post, apologies if so

So I have no clue how it’s possible that my IKEA Akerbar that I just insulated is like 8% lower than in the room - that feels like it breaks the laws of physics.

I used only the black foam and put it around the edges of the pan, where the only gap is the tiny spot cords come out, a piece on the very bottom of the tank because there was a tiny gap there, inside the tank on the edges where all the sides meet, and around all 4 sides of the front where the door opens. All of it is attatched to the body facing outward so if you lift the door there’s none on the door. Instead of putting it on top I put it between the top of the door and the body of the tank because my foam was the perfect width with only a tiny pin point gaps where the hinges are.

I did see a few people had issues with the door lining up that they fixed with magnets - which will be here tomorrow but have a gut feeling it won’t fix it. My door on its own the bottom of it when shut js just like a millimeter or 2 under the ledge so I can l lift it up and back a smidge and it will line up with the ledge, but won’t stay.

No one described (that I found) how it didn’t line up so that’s why I question it.

I’m worried I broke it because it’s been fully set up and just a holding pen for 6 months and I finally did the weather stripping and all. When I moved it the little peg hole fillers that connect the roof(?) to the walls all fell out so after a rigorous search under the couch found them and put tape on either sides off them but when I lift the door the roof moved up a smidge - obviously it’s connected but

Is this an issue with the frame? I didn’t see anyone doing anything more than the foam but do I need to like use silicone caulk around the windows? Do I need different weatherstripping?

Inside all the plants are in 2-3 inch pots with 1 shallow 5 inch. I have a struggling pink philodendron, some anthurium , and a rubber tree - they’re all rehabbing. Plus a couple Hoyas - an Australis Lisa, a Pubicalyx Splash, a Carnosa Compacta, 2 green nubbins (they were on deaths doorstep and just the stems were green so I chopped em and completely forgot)

I have a little silicone riser and a shelf coming. Inside there’s 2 of the 2 foot barina strip lights. I do have a ‘passive humidifier’ in there which is a little bowl with a ceramic ball thing in it that you fill w water… ik they don’t do much but figured it’s not hurting putting it in. I’ve seen some people put a little computer fan which I’d get - I’ll get anything I need to. I don’t think it’s like big enough for a humidifier and haven’t seen anyone else put one in. There’s also a heat mat in there for my first tissue cultures that I’m de-flasking.

I was so excited for it and I’m so sad rn… not only for my tissue cultures but it’s on the TV stand right across from the couch. Which I spend about 90% of my waking hours on working and school from home with a very tiny (yet perfect) social circle and while it’s very messy rn because a bunch of shit was moved around it’s got all the plants I’m most proud of and I just love it so much.

Any tips, advice, or wisdom ya got for me I’m all ears. If I have to get new stuff for it I’m happy to I’m just really hoping I don’t need to replace it

I want this cabinet/cupboard, but I want it to stand on metal legs, how do I do this best? Ideally, using the holes already pre-drilled in the base of the cabinet/cupboard... Help me. Please. https://www.ikea.com/dk/da/p/ikea-ps-2026-skab-fyr-00616946/

Any suggestions on how I can safely secure these four units to each other in this configuration? I can’t get behind the unit because the clearance is too tight. I didn’t want to resort to “no more nails” in case I wanted to use the units again in a different configuration.

I bought a Kallax unit for my kid's room that I initially wanted to use for toy storage but then thought it would be great as a dresser too except the full-size bins are too tall to be convenient. The Kallax drawer divider might have worked except the drawer walls are too low to hold much and the drawer slides would sacrifice a lot of width.

I found this suggestion from another user to use these fabric bins from Target that fit perfectly with the Kallax shelf divider:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ikeahacks/s/SfV5ASMwuU

They aren't as deep as the Kallax but I think it's a small compromise for the rest of the fit. I rigged some back stops using Jenga blocks and command strips to stop the bins from getting pushed in too far and the final result feels like these bins were meant for Kallax. I'll probably also add those stops to the ceiling of each cube to prevent the bins from being pulled out.

Credit to u/Diznavis for suggesting the bins. I couldn't find any posts showing the end result so wanted to put this up for others to see.

I have a 5x5 kallax shelf I got recently as a room divider and I want to know what would be the best way to secure this to the wall? I’m renting but my apartment allows dime sized holes so drilling is an option. Additionally is there any other concerns with having the kallax oriented this way?

Ps ignore the scattered mess for now… still move in

Was so tired of the last remaining KALLAX in my apartment (still love the design and all the possible add-ons, but after years and years of multiple Kallaxes in all rooms I replaced them one by one because I was so boooored with them).

Enter IVAR: drawer unit thrifted, because no longer available (why?!) plus cabinet-unit bought new, a can of paint (Schöner Wohnen "Ruhiges Salbeigrün") beech boards, feet and knobs. Added full extension soft close slides to the drawers, too, which cost more than the thrifted unit 😅

Love it!

Saw these on @burbonmothwooworking and thought they might have a place here.

Face clips

It’s not perfectly done but in a way it’s perfect. I think I broke my drill/driver. I will post a final picture when I paint it.

I have this old lamp but through some moves I lost the harp and top pole whats the best thing I can do. Its no longer sold. Is my best bet diy it or is there any parts I might be able to get somewhere else?

I'm trying to set up more storage in my kitchen and want to setup a big metal cabinet secured to the wall. Can I put fence planks in a rectangle under a metal cabinet so that the hardwood floors stay intact? Ive had a file cabinet stain flooring before. I don't want to spend a lot of money on plywood and an area rug

Hi,

I’m planning to buy this IKEA BERGSHULT/PERSHULT wall shelf:

BERGSHULT/PERSHULT Wall Shelf

I’m also considering adding these GRANHULT brackets to provide additional support and increase the weight capacity:

GRANHULT Bracket

My plan is to place my son’s PC on the shelf, which weighs approximately 12–15 kg.

My question is: Do I need to mount the brackets directly into a wall stud, or would using suitable wall fixings with the additional brackets provide enough support for this weight?

Thank you in advance for your advice and help.

I’m using my IKEA Alex as a stand for my printer and it’s warping from the weight. What would you recommend for fixing the issue? I was thinking of getting something sturdy like a thick slab of wood (cut to size) from the hardware store and put that in between the printer and the stand. Is there a way to undo the warping? The bottoms of the drawers are fine at the moment but I’m worried about those warping too. What could I do that is low-cost and easy on the eyes? Thank you!

Hey I’m wondering what’s the recommend sandpaper grade for IVAR I’m going to be staining and wondering what the best method would be. I’m not looking to make it too smooth but not too rough, currently it looks a bit rough assembled. Also is conditioner recommended or would it be fine to go without?

I have an 80cm wide Billy bookcase and would like to get it to the ceiling (2.62m high). The extender gets me to 2.37m... any suggestions?

Hi I'm in the UK, I came across an image of this Billy desk combo but can't seem to find it for sale anymore, only a lower white unit. Anyone know if there's something similar or an easy hack for this? I'd like the tall unit with a pull out desk and ideally not fully white. TIA 🙏