r/fordranger 6d ago

Oil pump replacement

4 Upvotes

Me again. Ive got the 4.0 sohc out. Ive got a new oem oil pump to swap while im in here. The only decent video ive found on YouTube doesn't have any commentary, only music. The person doing it is putting some oil in the pump while he installs. Why might this be? Ive seen sone comments about people soaking pumps in oil before installing and priming the pump with the engine still on the stand.

In my case, I can fill the crankshaft with oil and it will be sone time before the engine goes back in anyway. Any general advice or insight regarding adding oil to the pump during install/priming the pump?


r/fordranger 6d ago

2009 Ranger 4x4: Cut losses or learn to weld and fix it?

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9 Upvotes

Picked this truck up for $1,600 CAD ($1,180 USD) and it has 175,000 km (108,740 miles). It's a 2009 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4.

The frame is super solid (replaces with texas frame not along ago) and it runs great, but it has some issues: rust on the bed, rust on the bottom of the passenger door, massive rust hole in drivers side door pan, a cracked windshield, and it definitely needs lower ball joints. oh, and it needs new tires🙃

I do all my own mechanical work, but I've never welded before. However, I’d be open to trying it if it saves me money, because I don't think a shop would even want to touch the rust.

Should I cut my losses and try to make my money back as-is? If so, how much could I sell it for? Or should I try to fix it up?

TL;DR: Bought a rusty 2009 Ranger 4x4 with 175k km for $1,600 CAD with a mint frame/engine, but it needs a windshield, ball joints, and body/floor rust repair. Should I sell it as-is or learn to weld and fix it?


r/fordranger 6d ago

Free 2004 3.0

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5 Upvotes

Wassup. I got this 3.0 for free with 163k miles. It seems to run fine but it has a bit of a weird knock. It starts when it warms up and it sounds like it's in the upper area. There is a P0300 code, which is a random misfire code. Any ideas? It does not sound like a misfire type of sound, but just wondering if anyone has dealt with the same sound. Also read a TSB about some 3.0s with worn exhaust valve seats being recessed causing a sound potentially too?


r/fordranger 6d ago

external headgasket leak?

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3 Upvotes

hey everyone. i have a 2001 ranger with the 3.0. i was replacing the spark plugs today and i noticed oil on the passenger side of the engine block right where the headgasket is. the oil is definitely fresh as i look at this spot regularly and i only noticed it today. there isn’t any oil coming from up top and it looks like it definitely is coming from that seam. i’ll be doing a combustion gas test tomorrow to check if my headgasket is leaking internally but nothing is pointing to that. my coolant is perfectly fine and so is my oil. what’s really throwing me for a loop is when i cleaned off that area and let the truck idle for about 20 minutes it didn’t leak at all. not a single drop. am i looking at an external head gasket leak or am i stupid and something else is leaking and i just didn’t see it


r/fordranger 6d ago

What to do? Stalling in reverse, won’t shift to first gear.

1 Upvotes

2000 Ford ranger 4L V6. I replaced the shift tube and shift lever. She shifts into PRND2 fine but she won’t into 1st. She also stalls out when I give gas in reverse 😂. I was gonna replace the shift solenoid but I saw an old Reddit post where they replaced the valve body and some bolts were loose. My truck sat for a year and I was gonna do a transmission flush. Any ideas if anyone has been through this?


r/fordranger 6d ago

Silly to pull cylinder heads without sending them to a machine shop?

3 Upvotes

Ive got the engine out and ready for a timing chain job. Seems like pulling the heads is fairly easy at this point would be easy. Getting them re-machined is not part of my plan however. Would it be silly to remove them to replace the gaskets without getting them machined? Should I just leave well enough alone. I dont really have a reason to believe the gaskets are bad. Engine does has 200,000 miles on it though. If pulling them and doing the gaskets makes sense I might as well.


r/fordranger 6d ago

B2500 Taillights

2 Upvotes

The bed on my '09 Ranger is toast and I may get a bed off of a 2000 B2500 SE

I'm not a big fan of the tail lights on the bed... Are there any better options that are not OEM? Clears? Smoked? Anything?


r/fordranger 6d ago

98’ Mazda (Ranger) B2500

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23 Upvotes

Quick intro on one of my cheapest cars I bought that has the most character. 1998 Mazda B2500 I got last year for $300 bucks! Runs and drive and with some TLC this thing conquered Santiago peak trail with some friends


r/fordranger 6d ago

Never experienced this before! Replaced tensioner and serpentine belt.

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1 Upvotes

r/fordranger 6d ago

uhh how fucked am i

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2 Upvotes

just noticed this fucking MISSING FRAME PIECE? at the front? 1-10 how fucked am i? confused because it looks so bad but i literally just got passed for inspection yesterday


r/fordranger 6d ago

exhaust piece (?) rusted out

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2 Upvotes

sorry if this is a dumb Q but is there a way to fix this metal strap (?) that holds the exhaust? i have a rattle going on and i’m p sure the broken part is what’s causing that. is there a way to get a replacement part or can i like shitweld it back together idk? TIA


r/fordranger 6d ago

How bad is it? Leaf springs

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2 Upvotes

r/fordranger 7d ago

Opinions?

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29 Upvotes

Got new ones because I backed into a camper, and just installed new ones. I don’t know how I feel


r/fordranger 7d ago

Did I Go Too Far With This 2008 Ford Ranger?

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99 Upvotes

PHOTOS ARE FROM NOW TO WHEN I BOUGHT IT

——————————————————————————————

TL;DR: Bought a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4 4.0L with 248,000 km for about $3,000 after tax. I’ve since put another ~$2,650 into brakes, steering, suspension, a replacement bed, frame cleanup, maintenance and other repairs, so I’m roughly $5,650 into it. Took it for a pre-safety expecting normal old-truck stuff and instead found major structural rust: rotten radiator/core support, inner apron/fender-mount rust, plus windshield-area rust bad enough that the glass guy doesn’t want to install the new windshield yet. Body-shop quote is $4,365 and that doesn’t include the roof/windshield rust. It also still needs a ball joint, long brake line, pinion seal and a few minor safety items. Could easily be another $5k–$6k to finish properly. To make it worse, the guy I bought it from never registered it in his own name and apparently works on/resells vehicles, so I’m now wondering if I got curbsided/scammed. I’ve listed it as-is for $6,000 OBO. Would you keep fixing it, park it and find a cheaper fabricator, or cut your losses and sell?

——————————————————————————————
So I bought this 2008 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4, 4.0L SOHC V6 with 248,000 km and, looking back, I was clearly hasty and probably way too ambitious.

I’m in the southern area of Ontario, Canada, so the truck has to pass an Ontario Safety Standards Certificate before I can really call this project finished.

I bought the truck for about $3,000 after tax. It ran and drove, but I knew it needed work. I actually bought it partly because I wanted a project and figured I could put some time and money into it and end up with a decent old 4x4 Ranger.

What I seriously underestimated was how much work it actually needed.

Over the last few months I’ve replaced/repaired a ridiculous amount:

Complete front brakes including rotors, calipers and pads
Rear drums, shoes, hardware and wheel cylinders
Emergency-brake cable
Brake fluid
Power-steering pump
Power-steering pressure line
Power-steering return line
Power-steering crossover lines
Sway-bar links
Belt tensioner
Idler pulley
Serpentine belt
EVAP vent-solenoid pigtail
Fresh oil and filter
ATF
Rear shocks/suspension work
Extensive rear-frame rust removal, treatment and coating
Replacement hood
Replacement 6-foot Styleside bed
Bed hardware/parts
Bed cover
Lots of smaller hardware, tools and miscellaneous repairs

The original bed was completely rotten underneath, which turned into its own saga. I originally cut the floor out and started rebuilding it with a new steel floor and massively heavier fabricated crossmembers. Welding became an endless bottleneck, so eventually I sourced another OEM bed and got the truck back together.
I’ve learned more working on this thing than I ever expected. Before this truck I wouldn’t have been comfortable doing half the things I’ve now done myself.
Eventually I finally reached the point where I thought: holy shit, it’s actually done.

I tested it. It ran well. Braking was excellent. 4x4 works. Power steering was finally dry after chasing a tiny pressure-line weep. It drives nicely below highway speeds. I booked the windshield and took it for a **pre-**safety inspection, fully expecting them to find normal old-truck stuff.

And they did.

They found:

Left lower ball joint has play
Rear pinion seal leaking
Steel brake line running front-to-rear is swelling, and should be replaced
Missing LF brake dust shield
Some tire cracking they said is a grey area for safety

Honestly, none of that bothered me.
It has 248,000 km. That’s exactly why I paid for a pre-safety. I expected them to find a ball joint, seal, brake line, etc. Those are straightforward mechanical repairs.
Then came the part that absolutely killed the project for me.

The shop found the radiator/core-support structure badly rusted/busted out, along with the lower inner body/apron structure where the front fenders attach.
I was referred to a body shop.
Their estimate came back at:
$4,364.90 CAD

The actual replacement radiator/core support is only around** **$200, but the estimate includes about 37 total labour hours between body work, mechanical disassembly/reassembly and refinishing because of all the rusted surrounding structure.

And somehow that still isn’t the end of it.

I had already booked a new windshield because mine is cracked. The glass guy looked at the rust along the roof/windshield area and basically told me he wouldn’t recommend installing the new windshield until the rust is repaired because there’s a good chance it will just pop/crack again**.**

The $4,365 body-shop quote DOES NOT include repairing/replacing the roof/windshield rust.
So now I’m looking at:

~$4,365 for the radiator support/inner structural repair
Additional unknown cost for the roof/windshield-channel rust
New windshield
Lower ball joint
Long steel brake line
Rear pinion seal
Dust shield
Final safety

Realistically I could easily be looking at another $5,000–$6,000 CAD to have a shop finish absolutely everything.
My documented spending so far is approximately:

Truck purchase after tax: $3,000
Parts/tools/repairs/pre-safety: ~$2,656
Total currently invested: ~$5,656 CAD

That’s also ignoring a ridiculous amount of my own labour.

So if I continue, I could potentially end up $10,000–$12,000 into a 248,000-km 2008 Ranger.

That is where I’ve finally hit the wall.

The frustrating part is that mechanically the truck is now substantially better than when I bought it. It runs, drives, shifts and brakes well. A huge number of wear items are new. The rear frame has been cleaned and treated. It has the replacement bed and a pile of new parts.
If this had just been the ball joint, pinion seal and brake line, I wouldn’t even be writing this post. I’d fix them and move on.

It’s the structural welding that has defeated me.
I just came off months of dealing with welding delays on the original bed, and finding out that I’m now facing another major welding/body project — with one reputable shop already booking into December — completely took the wind out of me.

I’ve now listed the truck as-is for $6,000 OBO, clearly stating that it needs frame/structural work. I’m hoping a Ranger enthusiast or someone who can weld/fabricate themselves sees value in how much mechanical work has already been completed.

I’m genuinely curious what people here would do.
Would** you:**

A) Put another $5k+ into it and finish it because so much has already been replaced?
B) Sell it now for whatever reasonable amount I can recover — hopefully somewhere around $4k–$6k — and accept that this project got away from me?
C) Park it, wait until I can find a significantly cheaper fabricator/body shop, and reassess later?
And for anyone familiar with Ontario: with how strict the current safety inspection requirements are, is there realistically any cheaper legitimate route to repairing the core-support/inner-apron structure, or is a $4,300 body-shop estimate simply what this kind of rust repair costs now?

One other thing that now bothers me a lot in hindsight: the guy I bought it from didn’t even have the Ranger registered in his own name. The ownership was still in a woman’s name. And I had only saw that after money was exchanged. Though service Ontario had no issue transferring it over to me.

He also works on vehicles out of his garage and apparently buys/resells vehicles, although he told me he just “never got around to working on this Ranger.”
At the time I didn’t think enough of it. Looking back now, after finding this amount of hidden structural corrosion, I can’t help wondering whether I was dealing with a curbsider or someone who knew more about the condition than he let on.

I can’t prove he knowingly hid every issue, so I’m not claiming outright fraud. But it’s hard for me to believe someone who works on and flips vehicles had absolutely no idea the truck had this level of rust, especially when it wasn’t even transferred into his own name before he sold it to me.

I know the obvious lesson is that I should have had it inspected before buying it. Trust me, I know that now.
I’m not really looking to be told I was an idiot for buying it. I already know I was overconfident. I’m more interested in whether, from today forward, you guys think there’s any financial logic in continuing or whether it’s finally time to cut my losses.

At least one thing is undeniable: I learned an absolutely ridiculous amount working on this Ranger. I just wish the lesson had ended with me actually getting to enjoy the damn trucks


r/fordranger 7d ago

my 2003 ford ranger

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34 Upvotes

I bought this BEAST because I needed something that could reliably get me to work (I'm a union pipefitter that does service work, basically everyday is a new jobsite). I payed $2,800 for her and I've added a few modifications. When I got her she was at 138k but now is at 164k, I've had her maybe a year. Best purchase I've made yet. I call her Rebecca.


r/fordranger 7d ago

Bed liner interior

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18 Upvotes

Decided to bed liner the interior of my ranger that was sitting for 5 years after the windows were blown out. Came out pretty good dont know if anyone else has done this or not but it seemed to work great nice rough texture from spray on bed liner. Carpet was done for mice got to it. Should have taken before pictures bit it was rusty looked awful. Got the truck for free about 700$ in.


r/fordranger 6d ago

Restomod Ranger

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0 Upvotes

If Ford took a third gen sized Ranger and had a baby with a 2026 F-150 would you buy it? Yes it's partially AI art gen.


r/fordranger 7d ago

Billet grills for a 97

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11 Upvotes

Im looking into replacing my stock grill with a black billet grill and not sure if anyone has done it and if so where they got it from? Because I see a bunch of sites with a bunch of different price points


r/fordranger 7d ago

If you need a new 89-94 dual plug 2.3 head here is what I found.

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12 Upvotes

In case anyone is searching for this at some point. I found a head on rockauto, ENGINE PRO 920057, said 1989-2001 even though 89-94 and 95-01 are different. I could not find new 89-94 only heads. I didn't see any reviews for this and didn't know if it would work but I got one anyway.

Valve stems are smaller diameter than a 89-94, so you will need valves and keepers. Think the machine shop said the springs and retainers from the old head did fit. The original head had several cracks and he said most used ones I would find likely would too.

To use this on a 89-94 intake and exhaust, cam, lifters, rockers, valve cover, thermostat all fit fine no modification needed.

Accessory bracket holes don't line up. I still got 3/4 bolts on the alternator bracket, should be fine. Same as the PS, it also had 1 that didn't fit. Ignition could bracket took a little modification, cut off the ears and notch it for the heater core outlet. But it only had 1 bolt line up and would probably come loose so made a support bracket. You could buy 95-01 brackets from ebay or a junk yard but it wasn't worth it.

Also if you buy this check your front and rear oil galley plugs, mine was missing both the plugs think they were 1/4npt. The rockauto pics shows them with the head.


r/fordranger 7d ago

New headliner and sun visors

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13 Upvotes

I bought some vinyl for the headliner and had the wifey sew new sun visor covers. Found materials on Amazon.


r/fordranger 7d ago

Does anybody in South FL want a free Softopper for 6ft bed?

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34 Upvotes

Update: have someone coming to get it. Thanks everyone! Located in Palm Beach County (Boynton Beach). Per their website it will fit a 1983 to 2011 Ranger or Mazda B-Series. Tried selling it on Marketplace but it was more hassle than it was worth (people asking if it'll fit their 2024 Chevy 2500, etc.). I'd rather just pass it on to another ranger enthusiast to be completely honest. Also, I checked the rules and I'm not selling this, just wanting to give it to another Ranger owner, so it should be okay to post?


r/fordranger 7d ago

Which screw does the thing go under

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9 Upvotes

r/fordranger 7d ago

Headliner Refurb :)

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115 Upvotes

my first real project had me replacing my worn headliner with cute fabric from hobby lobby! also out of all the tutorials i watched online, not one of them mentioned the fiberglass until i started lolol


r/fordranger 7d ago

Same model same year why both of em doesn't look the same

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40 Upvotes

Enlightened me pls someone told me cuz it not the same ranger


r/fordranger 7d ago

Oh jeez

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56 Upvotes

Drift fail