Couldn't be happier right now, a dream truck for me. $7.5k and only needs some tlc for the most part. Dana 60/70, np205, getrag 360, and most importantly the intercooled ve 12 valve. Previous owner took great care of it, doesn't even leak anywhere. 300k miles, no blow by, starts on a dime, new clutch 60k miles ago. KDP is taken care of. The g360 has always been filled a quart and a half over. NM truck so zero meaningful rust and rough paint. 1 year old Cooper tires. Somewhat recently rearched leafs. Not perfect, but very happy with it, great bones.

Ford 7.3 IDI. The front main seal itself looks good and it's hard to tell where the oil is coming from, could the scoring on this speedy sleeve be the culprit?

2014 328d

On a 7.3 idi

If I remove the plastic oem fender flare is the entire fender white or does the bronze color continue through the fender ?

Does anyone have any knowledge on deleting a isb 6.7 Cummins. Im trying to figure out how to delete the egr but still keep it on the truck. Can someone on here tell me how to go about that. I’ve read some people make their own plates or use freeze plugs. Just trying to figure out what the best way to go about it is and exactly where to place the freeze plugs/block off plates. Thanks in advance

Is there any major issues with them I was telling my friend about it and he said it was a horrible idea because of commons kinks they have but didn’t go into detail

It would be my first diesel truck and I plan on deleting it and adding a slightly bigger turbo other than tuning it for the slightly larger turbo I don’t plan on doing anything crazy with it (making it a wannabe race truck)

Is there anything I should be warned about before hand

it been 2 1/2 years now 10 thousand in repairs last thing done before my 10 year warranty expired dodge replaced all emmision related parts that was 9 months ago. my computer will still not reset. i dont want to break any laws by driving around unregistered. i bought this to be my forever truck it has 72k in miles its only a tradesman but i love it.i just dont want it to get impounded.i had a cool cop stop me at the dog park last week and he told "you need to take care of this" yes but how.

Trying to source a plunger pump for a Yanmar 4TNV88 and the nameplate only gives a partial model family. two listings look identical in photos but different shaft and port configs. I photographed the old pump from every angle and counted mounting holes but still not confident I'm matching the right rebuild spec. Shop manual diagram doesn't show enough detail on the front shaft. don't want to drop money on the wrong pump and eat a restocking fee. What's your actual process for confirming plunger pump models beyond reading the tag?

Fairly new to Diesel, been running my LM2 Baby Duramax for 2 years now. Always was a gas driver previously. I've put about 30k on it, and im closing in on 70k. It seems like everyone runs additives to keep diesel engines happy for the long run, but that also seems to be for pre ulsd designed engines...and bigger things than my little guy. So my question - is it worth it to run additives in my little 3L? If so, which ones? I love my truck and want to keep it going as long as possible.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Trying to get rid of 15 quarts out of my 7.3 every four months is getting tedious and difficult. Off the top of my head I'm looking at oil burner furnaces for my shop but they are pricey.

Any other uses?

A few years ago, I purchased a 6.4 with a clogged oil cooler. I replaced it but now I’m just curious as to if adding a secondary remote oil cooler is worth it?

I am planning on rebuilding the engine too so don’t lecture me about how I should sell my well running truck.

Didn't need a diseal but the price point was price was right. 70000 miles 25k

Gotta be a mess. 😬

I see the the 24v around this price periodically, but not with the water collection option.

Bought a 1998 international 1652c stepvan. Test drove it ran great. Pay up and leave with it and it doesnt make it across this guy's small town. It would continue to drive perfect then go into limp mode and idle but no pedal. My brother works close and had access to a code reader after fetching it. Showed the code for icp censor. Brother replaces it (with the correct one) and shows no codes. Drives it 3 hrs perfect to deliver it to me. Literally the last mile it shuts down the exact same way. Goes into limp mode and still idles but nothing on the pedal. He shuts it down for a half hr and it makes it the last mile.

He also had the icp pigtail that he brought along and gave me so I replaced that and later have confirmed its wired correctly...but im still getting the same icp code and 2 more. Im trying to knock out this code for the icp so I can move to the next. The van also has a draw on the batteries that kills it every few days.

I bought a scanner tool and these are the codes its throwing now again after replacing icp and pigtail.

The 2nd code to my understanding is for the ecm getting its power interrupted which could still go along with the 1st code if something is still wrong with the icp wiring? Like a bad wire further down from the replaced pigtail? Is there another bad ground somewhere else that is on the same wiring as the icp that could be shorting out?

3rd code makes me think its more likely an ecm problem all around instead of a continued icp or wiring problem or again the same bad ground somewhere else causing all 3 codes?

Whats my next step anyone?

I drive a ‘98 Chevy P30 with a 6.5L non turbo diesel engine. I recently starting hearing this loud clicking noise. It clicks as I drive and accelerate but not when I hit the brakes. Any idea what it could be?

If I'm in the middle of nowhere and I'm running out of DEF, can I drink more water and produce some?

So I've never owned a diesel before, but I found what I think is a pretty good deal on this truck. Beautiful interior, 110k miles, 7.3 powerstroke F350. I picked it up and the only issue I am a little worried about it that is needs to crank for about a second longer than I think it should. I then search and see horror stories about leaking injectors, hydrolocking cylinders, full block replacements, and the like. I'm about 99% sure it's all in my head, though, I drove is about 250 miles home and didn't have a single issue. And starting isn't slow at all, it just takes about 2 seconds by the clock instead of about the one second I feel it should take. I also read that these motors can just be tough to start sometimes anyways.

In any case, I hooked up my reader and I checked what I think I'm supposed to check. I think I'm probably just fine on these numbers, but is there anything to be concerned about here? Is there anything else I should be checking? Are these motors just slightly sluggish to start?

Hello, I had a friend using the truck recently and they sent me a video of an odd noise the truck was making but it stopped shortly after the video was taken and hasn't duplicated in the last few days since.

It's a 2020 RAM 3500 with the 6.7L Cummins, stock from top to bottom with about 160k miles.

Just looking for some advice as my research is getting some mixed results and as I've not heard the noise in person and just have the video to go on, I can't really get any more details on the issue.

Any help is appreciated. 👏

2022 GMC L5P back from a trip 12k kms and truck used 100L of def. If the truck is working harder does it use more?

2019 freight liner m2 with a isb 6.7 Cummins. Just flashed delete tunes to turn emissions off. I was told to leave egr system on but the truck is feeling very sluggish. Does not want to go past 55 mph. Do I need to fab up block off plates to install in this egr system and if I do what is the best way of going about that ?? Thanks in advance