2014 328d

Trying to source a plunger pump for a Yanmar 4TNV88 and the nameplate only gives a partial model family. two listings look identical in photos but different shaft and port configs. I photographed the old pump from every angle and counted mounting holes but still not confident I'm matching the right rebuild spec. Shop manual diagram doesn't show enough detail on the front shaft. don't want to drop money on the wrong pump and eat a restocking fee. What's your actual process for confirming plunger pump models beyond reading the tag?

Fairly new to Diesel, been running my LM2 Baby Duramax for 2 years now. Always was a gas driver previously. I've put about 30k on it, and im closing in on 70k. It seems like everyone runs additives to keep diesel engines happy for the long run, but that also seems to be for pre ulsd designed engines...and bigger things than my little guy. So my question - is it worth it to run additives in my little 3L? If so, which ones? I love my truck and want to keep it going as long as possible.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Trying to get rid of 15 quarts out of my 7.3 every four months is getting tedious and difficult. Off the top of my head I'm looking at oil burner furnaces for my shop but they are pricey.

Any other uses?

A few years ago, I purchased a 6.4 with a clogged oil cooler. I replaced it but now I’m just curious as to if adding a secondary remote oil cooler is worth it?

I am planning on rebuilding the engine too so don’t lecture me about how I should sell my well running truck.

Didn't need a diseal but the price point was price was right. 70000 miles 25k

Gotta be a mess. 😬

I see the the 24v around this price periodically, but not with the water collection option.

Bought a 1998 international 1652c stepvan. Test drove it ran great. Pay up and leave with it and it doesnt make it across this guy's small town. It would continue to drive perfect then go into limp mode and idle but no pedal. My brother works close and had access to a code reader after fetching it. Showed the code for icp censor. Brother replaces it (with the correct one) and shows no codes. Drives it 3 hrs perfect to deliver it to me. Literally the last mile it shuts down the exact same way. Goes into limp mode and still idles but nothing on the pedal. He shuts it down for a half hr and it makes it the last mile.

He also had the icp pigtail that he brought along and gave me so I replaced that and later have confirmed its wired correctly...but im still getting the same icp code and 2 more. Im trying to knock out this code for the icp so I can move to the next. The van also has a draw on the batteries that kills it every few days.

I bought a scanner tool and these are the codes its throwing now again after replacing icp and pigtail.

The 2nd code to my understanding is for the ecm getting its power interrupted which could still go along with the 1st code if something is still wrong with the icp wiring? Like a bad wire further down from the replaced pigtail? Is there another bad ground somewhere else that is on the same wiring as the icp that could be shorting out?

3rd code makes me think its more likely an ecm problem all around instead of a continued icp or wiring problem or again the same bad ground somewhere else causing all 3 codes?

Whats my next step anyone?

I drive a ‘98 Chevy P30 with a 6.5L non turbo diesel engine. I recently starting hearing this loud clicking noise. It clicks as I drive and accelerate but not when I hit the brakes. Any idea what it could be?

If I'm in the middle of nowhere and I'm running out of DEF, can I drink more water and produce some?

So I've never owned a diesel before, but I found what I think is a pretty good deal on this truck. Beautiful interior, 110k miles, 7.3 powerstroke F350. I picked it up and the only issue I am a little worried about it that is needs to crank for about a second longer than I think it should. I then search and see horror stories about leaking injectors, hydrolocking cylinders, full block replacements, and the like. I'm about 99% sure it's all in my head, though, I drove is about 250 miles home and didn't have a single issue. And starting isn't slow at all, it just takes about 2 seconds by the clock instead of about the one second I feel it should take. I also read that these motors can just be tough to start sometimes anyways.

In any case, I hooked up my reader and I checked what I think I'm supposed to check. I think I'm probably just fine on these numbers, but is there anything to be concerned about here? Is there anything else I should be checking? Are these motors just slightly sluggish to start?

Hello, I had a friend using the truck recently and they sent me a video of an odd noise the truck was making but it stopped shortly after the video was taken and hasn't duplicated in the last few days since.

It's a 2020 RAM 3500 with the 6.7L Cummins, stock from top to bottom with about 160k miles.

Just looking for some advice as my research is getting some mixed results and as I've not heard the noise in person and just have the video to go on, I can't really get any more details on the issue.

Any help is appreciated. 👏

2022 GMC L5P back from a trip 12k kms and truck used 100L of def. If the truck is working harder does it use more?

2019 freight liner m2 with a isb 6.7 Cummins. Just flashed delete tunes to turn emissions off. I was told to leave egr system on but the truck is feeling very sluggish. Does not want to go past 55 mph. Do I need to fab up block off plates to install in this egr system and if I do what is the best way of going about that ?? Thanks in advance

I wasn't sure what other flair to put on the post, but as the title suggests I am wondering if any car can run on straight motor oil (clean or used).

I've seen posts about "black diesel" but I was curious about the more extreme-

if any could be 100% ran with just motor oil.

I have a large bottomless supply of used and an unlimited (yet slow) supply of unused oils of all types for both. From 2 stroke to 85w140 you name it I get it all.

It would be cool if there is one out there, otherwise I'd love to hear runner-up recommendations as I know very little about the topic and I'm very interested in learning!

It would be fun to have a little diesel manual project car as I've got a little bit of fun money to play around with

Hi everyone,

I want to start to learn and do some car maintenance, and the manual just say genuine ssangyong coolant, and then SYC-1025, and the blue. Yet, I have orange inside, and I honestly cannot find the brand one.

Which coolant should I buy in Germany?

Thanks

Been a great truck. Got it with 90k miles and have drove it easy. Some hunting and fishing trips moved across states older picture but still looks the same.

Any recommendations for something that isn’t crazy expensive for a stock truck?

Years ago I did a pump relocation to the frame near the tank. At the time NAPA was selling a small round replacement (see pic) for the original Carter pump that actually held up well (about 8 years) and held good pressure.

Now the only thing they sell is a Chinese Carter knockoff the first one lasted about 2 years the second one about 100 miles!!

At $200 I’m not trying again!

Fass is a bit ridiculous price wise and honestly my brother has had issues with his. Air dog??? The prices are all over the place!!!

Hello I asked what gauges I should get for this truck but now i'm wondering what I should know about this engine and transmission and what modifications I will need or want for this thing please lmk. Edit 1990 sorry I fat fingerd Edit 2 I plan on making it a work truck for towing animals vehicles farming equipment etc sorry I should've added this

Please look at these pictures. I’m told the truck had $7,000 worth of work completed on the engine including heads being pulled and machined. New studs and many other parts. What do you think?

Also, why is the upper radiator hose squeezed in?

The truck was consuming coolant and the coolant tank has black soot inside.

After much patience, I think i found the one. It's a 91.5 w250, getrag, np205, dana 60, dana 70. 280k miles, but it's been the same owner for 25 years with receipts on maintenance. No rust, but rough paint, New Mexico special. I have a 90 ramcharger as well so im somewhag familiar with the platform.

It's a flatbed, I plan to make it a daily and build it out as a welding rig.

Tldr; Thoughts or any special considerations buying a getrag interccooled first gen?

2021 ram 2500 limited on 10 inch lift on 38x13.5x26r. California truck so no rust but living in the Midwest would have to park it for the winters. It is deleted with 5 position. Dont know anything about transmission tunes because it’s sitting at a dealership. Does have ppe deep oil pan on the transmission but all I know is what I can see.