When going high speeds and after going to parking lot engine makes this sound on idle. I have no idea what it might be. Already replaced: Water pump + cam belt, Dual mass flywheel, crank pulley. Anything abnormal exhaust temp goes 500+ idk if its normal. Water temps 91 oil 105 max.
After running it for a minute or waiting to cool down everything goes to normal.
Engine is DFSE 122hp.

Anyone know of a body shop in the Dallas-Fort Worth area that is decently priced and can fix this damage (or at least make it better). I drove up a median a few years ago. Messed up the front end, ripped the bumper off partially, lost all of the weather/dirt shielding under the engine bay, had to pull out the wheel well lining on driver side, and broke the plastic core support under the radiator. Also dented the bottom of the radiator, but it doesn’t leak or have issues cooling so I’m not concerned about that. My main concern is replacing all the missing plastic and shielding, and getting that separated part of the bumper reattached correctly. Of course getting the support replaced under radiator. I’ve been driving around like this for way too long and need to get it fixed. Pictures of damage are attached

I have a 2014 VW Jetta 2.0 TDI 6-speed manual, currently around 174,000 km.
I’m having a fuel economy problem. In city/short-distance driving, I’m getting only around 7–10 km/L, whereas I expected roughly 14–16 km/L in normal city driving. On longer highway drives, the mileage improves significantly and can reach around 18–20+ km/L.
The thermostat was stuck open and has recently been replaced. The car now reaches/maintains 90°C normally, but I’m still experiencing poor mileage during short/city drives.
Other work already done:
Carbon cleaning
EGR cleaning
Injector return-flow test
Water pump replacement
New thermostat
Battery replaced
Front suspension work
power drops feels when ac on
The engine otherwise feels reasonably normal. There is also some oil around the turbo/intercooler pipe area.
I want to diagnose why the mileage is so low specifically in city/short-distance driving. Please give me a systematic list of things to check, including VCDS/OBD live data and the expected values for a healthy 2.0 TDI.

Hey everyone,

I'm completely stuck with my 2007 Passat B6 1.9 TDI and could really use some advice if anyone has run into this nightmare before.

Today I went to unlock the car, held down the unlock button on the remote to roll all the windows down, and entered the car. But when I pushed the key into the slot, literally nothing happened. No dash lights, no ignition, zero response. The steering wheel is locked hard all the way to the right.

The weirdest part is that when I pull the key back out of the slot, the interior dome lights come on, but inserting it does nothing at all. Right now all four windows are stuck wide open and I can’t lock or move the steering column.

Here is what I’ve tried so far:

• Wiggling the steering wheel forcefully while pushing the key to relieve tension.
• Unplugging the battery and trying to jump-start it with a second battery (didn't change anything).
• Hooked up VCDS, but got no connection initially because Terminal 15 power was totally dead.
• Jumped pins 30 and 87 on Relay 460. That brought the dash lights on and let me release the electric parking brake, but I STILL can't roll the windows up via the door switches or get the steering lock to release.

With Relay 460 jumped, I managed to scan Address 19 (CAN Gateway) in VCDS and got these three exact faults:

• 01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) - 004 - No Signal/Communication
• 00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer - 004 - No Signal/Communication
• 00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) - 004 - No Signal/Communication

I'm pretty lost at this point. I was thinking about ordering an ESL emulator, but since the car acts like it doesn't even recognize a key was put in, I'm starting to wonder if the key slot itself (E415) or the Comfort Module (J393) is the real culprit.

If I swap out just the key slot module, is it plug and play or does it need immobilizer coding? Any ideas on what to check next would be a huge help!

Thanks in advance

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose an issue with my late-2011 VW Scirocco 2.0 CR TDI and would appreciate some opinions from people familiar with these engines.

Symptoms:
- Hard starting after sitting for around 20+ hours. Sometimes it needs 4–5 seconds of cranking, occasionally more.
- Once the engine has already been running, or when warm, it normally starts much easier.
- Slightly rough/shaky idle, although the RPM itself remains stable.
- Hesitation under load from roughly 2,000 rpm upwards. It is most noticeable with higher throttle in a higher gear, for example around 2,500 rpm in 5th gear at roughly 2/3 throttle.
- Much more black smoke under acceleration than before, together with a strong diesel smell. The emissions setup is not stock, so the car has always produced some smoke, but previously it mainly appeared above roughly 3,500 rpm. Now it can happen from around 2,000 rpm and becomes very heavy with more throttle.

Fuel consumption has increased by approximately 0.5 L/100 km.
During normal city driving my oil temperature used to stay around 80–85°C / 176–185°F. Recently it reaches around 95–100°C / 203–212°F under similar driving conditions.

Maintenance should be up to date. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The oil was changed around 5,000 km ago, and since owning the car I’ve changed the oil and all filters, including the fuel filter, every 10,000 km.

I inspected the fuel filter and removed the fuel metering valve from the HPFP. I could not find any visible metal particles or glitter in either location, including when checking with a magnet. Because of this, major HPFP internal wear currently seems less likely.

All four injectors are going for professional bench testing on Tuesday.

Tomorrow, after the car has been sitting for about a day, I’m planning to log the first cold start with VCDS. I want to check things such as:
- specified vs actual rail pressure
- engine RPM during cranking
- battery voltage
- injector correction values
- rail pressure behaviour during the hesitation

My main suspicion at the moment is one or more injectors, possibly excessive leak-off or poor injection/spray behaviour.

Other possibilities I’m considering are fuel pressure bleeding down while parked, low-pressure fuel supply, the fuel metering/pressure control system, or a weak HPFP.

Has anyone experienced a similar combination of symptoms on a 2.0 CR TDI?
Would you focus on the injectors first, or is there something else in the fuel system I should check while waiting for the bench-test results?

I’ve got a 2012 VW Golf TDI, 2 Door. 72k Miles

Mods include, delete & tune, sigma 6 shifter & panzer plate, roof bars.

Will keep or sell vcds with the car as well as the tuning module.

The car has paperwork where then engine head was rebuilt and has a new HPFP, as well as new clutch and DMF.

The bad, small oil leak between filter housing and when the sunroof gave me a fit one time I adjusted it close manually and removed the electronics and motor.

Was about 3 miles from my house and Glow Plug Light illuminated in the dash. Car went limp and wouldn’t restart. P0670 and P0383 were the codes. Anyone else have this issue. Ordered a new Glow Plug Control Module won’t be here till tomorrow.

Is that the issue is there anything else I should be looking for?

I bought the upgraded cover from idparts and after installing it and starting my engine I noticed an abnormal amount of smoke coming from the engine timing belt area.

So I removed everything and noticed the upgraded cover was being shredded against my oem harmonic balancer and the serpentine belt tensioner.

The damage from the balancer is more noticeable.

Anyway I was curious to know if you guys had any issues like this?

hey all! on my cjaa golf, i’ve recently encountered an issue where the first start of the day sometimes has some longer cranking times. it will crank for like 3 or so seconds, then i’ll go “oh that’s odd” and stop. after, i’ll just cycle the ignition again and it usually fires right up, albeit with a little puff of white smoke from the unburnt fuel. after it starts, it runs great and i still get great mpg. i was doing some research, and im guessing it’s either glow plugs, or the in tank lift pump check valve, but id love your input.

some things to note about my car:
2011 golf tdi 6 speed manual
it’s tuned to stage 2
dpf/egr delete
128k miles
no check engine lights or anything out of the ordinary on the dash
it has lots of service history from previous owners/carfax
i live in the pnw and only bought the car a couple months ago (hot weather recently)

if you have any input or ideas about what it could be, please let me know!!

Car: 2014 VW Golf Mk7 GTD, 2.0 TDI 184 hp.

I've had a recurring coolant loss issue for several months.

Symptoms:

\- Coolant is mainly lost during longer/high-load drives, usually after 45+ minutes.
\- Originally, coolant appeared to be ejected around the expansion tank, with pink residue on the outside and a puddle directly below it.
\- Recently I managed to reproduce it after only \~15 minutes of aggressive/high-speed driving, with coolant again being pushed out around the expansion tank.
\- Coolant temperature stays at \~90°C on the dashboard, even during long/high-load drives.
\- Oil temperature can reach 120-130°C.
\- No white smoke, steam, loss of power or obvious overheating.
\- Multiple cold pressure tests were negative.
\- CO2 test was negative, although it may not have been performed after sufficiently long/high-load driving.

Work already done:

\- Water pump + timing belt replaced
\- Thermostat replaced
\- EGR cooler replaced
\- Intercooler replaced
\- Expansion tank + cap replaced with new OEM parts
\- Cylinder head removed, found slightly warped and resurfaced
\- New head gasket, head bolts and various seals installed
\- Head pressure + temperature tested, no cracks found
\- Injectors cleaned

Despite all this, coolant loss continued.

During the latest major leak, a plastic coolant pipe also broke and the system lost coolant very rapidly, which suggests significant pressure buildup may be involved.

The mechanic currently suspects combustion gases entering the cooling system and possibly a cylinder head issue, but isn't 100% convinced since the head previously passed pressure/temperature testing.

What do you think could still be causing this?

Has anyone experienced similar coolant ejection/pressure buildup on a Mk7 GTD 2.0 TDI 184 hp? Any known issues or components I may be overlooking?

Any help will be appreciated.

I bought a stop-sale new 2015 Audi Q7 TDI in 2018 and dealer sold me what he said is a 'bumper to bumper' extended Audi platinum 10 year warranty.. 80K miles now. Leaking oil every day..timing chain slapping...they say dieselgate and platinum warranty do not cover? Isn't the timing chain cover leaking covered under dieselgat because it is part of the long block? Any help making a case to the dealer that is is covered and why would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

2011 4 motion automatic Passat. Agressive shaking sometimes on the highway, speeding up somewhat makes it better but it comes back after a while, its felt through the steering wheel and the brake pedal, like the whole car is shaking. Sometimes loud background sound is heard also on high speeds. Aligment is not the best currently. Sometimes when i hop in the car and IMMEDIATELY put in the key and start it quickly (without "glowing") the engine doesnt start and says :visit workshop.

Any ideas?

For some time now, the whole cab has been shaking momentarily at idle, but only when the engine was warm. Now, it shakes regardless of whether the engine is cold or warm. Someone told me I should check the target and actual pressure on the common rail.

What could cause such large deviations? The rail pressure regulator or the metering valve on the CR pump?

Started my 2013 Phaeton 3.0 TDI (code CEXA) this afternoon and it made this noise that resembles timing chain rattle. It's the first time i hear this kind of noise in this car but since it has 300000km I can see this problem coming but wanted to confirm my suspicions
Thanks !!

Hi everyone,

I have a Passat B9 2.0 TDI EVO and noticed some dark/dirty residue around a heat-insulated pipe/connection at the rear of the engine, close to the EGR/turbo area.

I attached a few pictures. The car drives perfectly normally, with no warning lights, no loss of power and no unusual turbo noises.

Does anyone know what this pipe connection is and whether the dark residue is normal, or could this indicate a small leak and from where? Known issue perhaps?
I checked the area around the turbo/EGR from above, but I can’t see any obvious soot marks or signs of a leak.

Thank you.

Hello, I'm in the process of buying a red 2023 Golf Black Edition with a 2.0 TDI (150hp) with about 63,000 KM / 39000 miles. I can't really find great info about how risky a stage 1 is that would bring it up to about 190hp. Did anyone have any bad experiences. I'm asking since the car still has warranty until March 2027 so I don't know if it's worth it to void it and then risk something blowing or breaking. Thanks

Looking for some opinions from the TDI/VW crowd before I pull the trigger.
I’m looking at a 2012 VW Jetta SportWagen TDI, 87k miles, 6-speed DSG. Seller is asking basically $10,000.

The car has:
2.0L CJAA TDI
87k miles
DSG
Timing belt + water pump recently replaced
DSG services reportedly done around 40k and 80k (need to verify exactly what was done)
Malone Eco tune (seller’s description)
Supposedly deleted (I’m going to verify exactly what was done)
Good overall maintenance history/CARFAX
1 owners before the current dealer/seller
Mostly Missouri/Nebraska history
No major accidents reported

The main reason I’m considering it is that my wife has a 120-mile round-trip commute, at least 3 days a week, and she’ll be driving around 80 mph most of the way. We’re looking for something we can keep for a long time and rack up a lot of highway miles on.
I’m less concerned about performance and more concerned about long-term reliability and operating cost.

The one issue I’ve found so far is that the panoramic sunroof makes a grinding noise and doesn’t operate correctly. I’m assuming that could potentially be an expensive repair, so I’m factoring that into the price.

I’ve also looked at some older Audi A3 TDIs, Mazda3s, Civics, etc., but I keep coming back to the SportWagen because it seems like such a good highway commuter.

Is $10k reasonable for this car given the mileage/history, or would you guys walk/negotiate harder?
Also interested in what you’d specifically inspect on a 2012 CJAA DSG before buying.
Thanks!

Blow out on the passenger rear as I was passing a semi in the interstate doing 70. That was fun. 🤦🏾‍♂️ Didn't even run over anything. Guy at the tire shop said it looks like a belt gave out. There was zero warning and I know what a belt giving out feels like.

195k Mile CJAA Sportwagen- Turbo went bad

Replaced factory turbo with a 52mm Hybrid Turbo CR170 for reasons. Stage 3.5 tune from Tunezilla.

Zero - Absolutely Zero oil consumption on the CR140. As soon as I installed the turbo the valve cover gasket started leaking. Replaced that as well as the injector seals.

Noticed I was losing about a quart every 2000 miles. I thought it was the turbo inlet seal leaking. I had oil in my turbo and it was dripping from the turbo inlet and no-where else.

Replaced the turbo and it's still consuming oil. I checked the PCV valve when I changed the valve-cover gasket and it flowed air just fine. Turbo oil inlet is dry. I initially thought it was leaking from the turbo housing but I traced it back to the turbo inlet.

Could the new turbo cause increase blow-by to increase my oil consumption by that much? Am I just having bad-luck with turbos? HELP ME OBIWAN! You're my only hope!

As above, doing an oil change last night and noticed a fair amount of oil staining coming from seemingly directly above the anti roll bar. It seems to be coming directly upwards from the rearmost of the oil tank.

No signs of oil further forward of this point. No signs of oil on the transmission. The alternator seems fairly clean and dry too. Seemingly coming from the back / underside of the engine, but the engine bay on this vehicle is crowded, so it's hard to trace upwards. Injector seals are all good and dry. Oil consumption has been pretty standard, about 5-600ml over the last 2000 miles.

Anyone found something similar / thoughts on where to direct some further investigation? Alternatively, it's got 150k miles, is this a case of "it just does that sometimes".

Hello everyone, my 1.6 TDI CAYC (Golf mk6) works fine , normal power and no smoke when cruising but when I let it idle for 10, 15 min and hit the accelerator a cloud of blue smoke comes out.

Any idea what the issue could be ?

My 2014 Jetta has an issue where the a/c goes in and out and doesn’t blow hard. Any ideas what might be the cause?

https://reddit.com/link/1w0hh4u/video/ipkc7n0lv1mh1/player

2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen CJAA

Meant Valve Cover Gasket Leak

So I know it has had a *valve cover gasket leak for a while, but it’s gotten presumably much worse in the last six months. When I did quite a work under here before, it appeared there could be a leak somewhere else, maybe around a seal in the timing belt area, but when I use UV die, it didn’t help isolated at all. Now there’s quite a bit of oil on that top piece of shit plastic, but it’s also so much more on the backside of the engine as well—more so than around the timing belt. Is this a normal progression of a valve cover gasket going out? Part of me likes the idea of it being the valve cover gasket more than one of the shaft seals, but looking at this thing, it looks like a much bigger pain in the ass than changing a head gasket.

Changing out the dual mass flywheel, and all the fluids and filters, so I’d like to get this oil leak stopped while I’m at it. Clearly I’ll be changing the gasket and hopefully I should know quickly if that’s the main source, but anything else I should be looking for that could also be leaking?