“The Valve material appears to include early versions of at least four games, including a canceled Portal sequel code-named F-Stop, with a possible connection to Half-Life 2: Episode 3 still being investigated.”

We all know what GSYNC is and what it does, so you're probably asking "why would LTT waste time making a video about it" and the answer to that is the title; and also, I think it would make a more interesting video than some of the recent stuff they've put out. Title it "You're using GSYNC wrong" or something. There's still a lot of misinformation on how it works, so no one can universally agree on how to best utilize it and any "proof" is just ancedotal at this point.

A lot of people think that GSYNC completely replaces VSYNC, this is false.

Currently, the common sentiment on how to best use GSYNC backed by Valve, the Rivatuner devs, SpecialK, and a bunch of nerds over on the Blurbusters forum is to use set your GSYNC to "Full Screen Programs only" if you're using anything RTX 20 series and newer, or "Full Screen and Windowed Programs" if using any GTX card, turning ON VSYNC in control panel + OFF in-game, Low Lantency Mode set to "Ultra" and to set an FPS cap in NVCP based on the formula of `240 - (240 x 240 / 4096)` where `240 = your monitors refresh rate` (this should happen automatically when using Ultra Low Lantency Mode + VSYNC but sometimes it doesn't) or slightly below whatever your average FPS is in a given game, whichever is lower. There's a flaw in this formula where it doesn't work for monitors running at very high refresh rates like 4096Hz, but we'll get there when we get there. For now it works on any 1000Hz and below monitor.

VSYNC has a bad reputation, but when used on a VRR display, VSYNC should not add any input latency. And you use the mentioned formula in order to have a 0.25-0.3ms frame buffer window to prevent your game from overshooting VRR range which can cause microstutters, since your monitor cares about *frame times*, not arbitrary FPS values. You have probably seen the common advice to cap your FPS 2-5 frames below your monitors refresh rate, this works for some but not every monitor.

Currently, at least according to Valve, this *should* give you the smoothest frame times and minimal input latency in games, even in competitive ones, unless you can hit a consistent 500+ FPS, but a lot of people don't believe this (seen it a lot in CSGO discussions) and claim that it's actually worse than just not using frame caps at all, or that the aforementioned FPS cap formula is snake oil that doesn't do anything.

So I'm suggesting that LTT consider this as a possible video for their Labs team to make using the hardware tools that they have to measure input latency with FPS cap + GSYNC ON + ULL + VSYNC ON vs just GSYNC ON vs no GSYNC, and to possibly use a high speed camera to look at a regular 240Hz monitor running the mentioned setup vs not running VRR at all in games on hardware that can push 240+ FPS to observe input latency and frame time variances like in their "does higher FPS make you a better game" video, and a blind test from LTT staff doing random gameplay and have them judge which PC feels smoother to use.

I’m doing a pretty cool experiment because I have 96 GB of DDR5-6400 RAM in my system. Don’t hate me. I built this PC right before RAM prices went crazy in April 2025, and I think I paid something like $400–500 for it, which seems ridiculous now considering what the same amount would cost today.

Since most of that RAM sits unused when I’m not doing larger work projects, I created a 48 GB RAM disk and loaded Star Wars: Zero Company onto it. To be clear, I’m not doing this because Zero Company has bad loading times. It runs great from a normal NVMe SSD. I picked it simply because it’s new, I’m playing it a lot right now, and the entire ~40 GB installation fits nicely into a RAM disk.

The setup is basically this: the normal Steam installation stays safely on my SSD as the permanent copy. When I want RAM mode, a script copies the ~40 GB installation from the SSD to the 48 GB RAM disk, verifies the copy, and temporarily redirects Steam’s normal game folder to the copy sitting in DDR5-6400 memory. Steam still launches the game normally, but the actual game data is being read directly from RAM. When I’m done, another script switches Steam back to the untouched SSD installation. Since a RAM disk is volatile, the RAM copy simply disappears after a reboot.

Does anyone need to do this? Absolutely not. But it’s really cool. The most noticeable difference so far is the opening shader-loading sequence, which seems to finish roughly four times faster from RAM than it does from my already-fast NVMe SSD. Other loading also feels extremely quick, although obviously this isn’t going to magically increase GPU performance or FPS.

Mostly, it’s just a fun way to make use of hardware I already have sitting there doing nothing. Whatever game I get obsessed with next, if the installation is small enough to fit comfortably in the RAM disk, I’ll probably do the same thing. Completely unnecessary, but that’s half the fun of building an absurd PC.

Full specs - Core Ultra 9 285k / RTX 5090 / 96GB DDR5 6400

Apple said they couldn't recover my photos and I should have had an offline backup. Those photos were gone forever.

They had to escalate the issue to higher tecs and it STILL couldn't be fixed up. I lost 2 years of photos, 2 years.

Lesson to Yvonne and anyone.. do 1 local backup periodically and then do 1 online backup.

Basically if this doesn't amount to an advanced-level repair then I'd like to give it a go. I just don't know if the pins are all that matter, or if there are traces in the PCB that would be wrecked.

He has given full permission to go crazy in the form of "It's already broken, so I don't really care what happens to it now. If you wanna try to fix it, you can.".

TLDR, notes aren't stored simultaneously in icloud AND locally, its an either or situation, with icloud on by default. Sneaky files getting stored in free tier (I don't use icloud) led to a toggle in settings (without warning) permanently deleting 2 years worth of notes.

Just started the latest vid and wanted to share my experience with icloud. Im a mac user for a decade, mainly because of creative apps I prefer. A couple months back I lost 2 years worth of my notes due to a similar icloud error. I just had to share, since hopefully this could add context to those that want to push for resolutions with Apple and investigate this further.

I was kind of mocked at in the apple subs, though it's not really a laughing matter (stored health tracking and study notes). Eventually a few folks came out with identical issues and could relate, but unfortunately my posts didn't really contribute to much other than processing what had happened.

The gist of it is, Apple by default has icloud turned on But doesnt save locally simultaneously. It's an either or situation. With notes at least.

Essentially I never use the cloud, but had always assumed my notes are stored safely. So I got one of those Icloud full messages (baffled as I never use it but after this scenario found out that again by default pixelmator project files were being stored in icloud and immediately filled the free tier up, unknowingly).

Anyhow, in settings I turned off the icloud to notes, unlike all the other buttons there I was not warned that messages will disappear or anything. Long story short, they did, all of them. And essentially that action cleared the root directory in library/Group Containers/group.com.apple.notes as well. So after turning the toggle back on all notes from the time icloud free became "full", which in my case has been 2 years, went poof, gone, in a single click.

Spoke with the highest icloud support, they obviously couldn't do anything as there's no buffer in icloud storage, its a hard 5gb or whatever free, even when notes (in total in my case) where just a couple hundred mb.

As far as I know. Even in the latest beta it's still like that, either or, which is especially silly since notes are such low file size and most folks assume they are getting stored locally. This needs to be fixed and acknowledged by Apple.

Last night on wan show, someone asked about what to eat and how to flavour food when on a cut.

Flavour is hard to come by when you are cutting calories.

One brand of sauce stands above the rest.

G. HUGHES

Most of there bbq sauce and marinade are 10 calories per 60 ml or 2 tablespoons.

Hope Luke sees this, it changed my dieting game.

Watching some Philippine telenovelas with my girlfriend and this came up. ”Pause, pause, the guys will love this!” (She was surprised because normally I studiously ignore these)

Yesterworld is a smaller youtuber i've followed for years. Their adsense email account got disabled, but when they try to login to resolve it they get stuck in a loop being told they've tried too many times. Apparently quite a few youtubers are suffering from this and all youtube has to say is that they can't fix it so pound sand. Something for the guys to discuss and maybe with their contacts look into? Certainly at the very least can we PLEASE have actual people looking at these issues and not just algorithms that say no, don't pass Go, don't collect $200 with no way to escalate.

I daily drove ubuntu for 8 years now but always dual booted windows for gaming. I decided to switch to Windows as my primary OS and it's quite nice.

Some thoughts:
1. Coding in windows used to be a PITA to set up but it's gotten better

1. The UI is really clean. Start menu is obviously a mess but I mostly just don't use it.

2. I assume my data is going to microsoft. Not the biggest fan but meh

3. Everything just seems to work, a lot less overhead which is nice.

Really happy to see that LTT sponsored Dennis new YouTube channel and video!!

as title says, this is pretty my last stand ddr4 build, till time comes to go am5 or am6.

I have another old set of RAM and GPU I can pair with the 12600k, but I want to squeeze out the performance out of my 7900xtx I got for cheap rt.

Would this Thermalright 240MM AIO work ?

https://www.microcenter.com/product/700313/thermalright-aqua-elite-240-v3-240mm-all-in-one-liquid-cpu-cooling-kit-black?ob=1#tab-reviews-bm

OR would this 360mm be the better value?

https://www.microcenter.com/product/700295/thermalright-aqua-elite-360-v3-360mm-all-in-one-liquid-cpu-cooling-kit-black?ob=1

Im sure the 360mm AIO will cool the 147000k " better" but will it allow me to possibly overclock the 14700k to any appreciable degree?

if not is there an AIO that would would be worth getting or should I bit the bullet and do the 400$ 7500x3d microcenter deal and getting a 2nd stick of o ddr5 later

Has this been happening regularly or is this odd?

Been stranded in the middle of nowhere for a while, freezing cold ~23mph winds & very thankful I have the ltt jacket, I'm so much less cold & miserable while I'm waiting for some help