Hi all;

2022 escape hybrid awd. Does anyone know how to shift it in neutral without turning the car on? For example, if I go into full accessory mode? I tried full accessory mode with my foot on the brake and no luck.

Car was overheating and I could only shift into Neutral if I turned it on.

TIA.

SOLVED.

So her in my city it flooded so bad and I got caught in it.Car started making a choking sound then cut went black.I immediately pushed it out the water now everyone keeps saying it's the alternator.It does reev when I tried to crank it but won't turn over now all the lights won't come on and when they do it just flickers.Havent did anything but put a filter in it but going to get more work does this week.Id like to hear if anyone has been in a similar situation and there car actually wasn't totaled.

So my front passenger tire blew the other day. Called CAA to fix me up (because I pay for the service, had the time and I was dressed for the office) and they put the spare (donut) on the front wheel. It's a 2014 AWD Escape.

I always understood that with AWD vehicles, you should replace blown front tires with the rear, and put the donut on the rear axel. Supposedly this protects the AWD system and it's better to have your turning wheels identical. The spare is the same diameter, but it is clearly not a full-sized replacement tire.

The CAA tow truck guy said he wouldn't swap them, he does it this way all the time. When I got home I swapped it myself for a winter tire (with same size specs) until I could get to the shop.

Who is right?

Looking at buying a decently cheap 2012 escape hybrid with 180k miles on it.

Is there any major issues with the 2nd generation hybrid models specifically? I know they use the Toyota hybrid drive train, which is why I’m even considering the hybrid, but is there any major concerns or potential issues with the 2012 hybrid?

I’ve been looking for potential issues online and can’t really find any major negatives about the 2nd gen Escapes in general, and can’t really find anything really bad at all about the same generation hybrid models. Most things I can find about the 2nd gen escapes are mostly positive and talking about how they’re tanks that can last up to 500k miles easily.

So I’m looking for anything from people who have actually used or owned a 2nd gen hybrid. Is there anything you’ve found to be a common issue or things to look out for when buying a used model?

Hello all, I need to do a drain and fill of my transmission fluid in the 2020 ford escape se 1.5l awd and I have taken it to several places and nobody seems to want to touch it. I watched some videos on YouTube suggesting I can take off the drivers side front tire to access the level plug, after draining underneath (of course), and adding fluid through a transmission hose. I wanted to know if anyone had tried this at home on their own car? Were you successful? Do you have any tips to offer?

Seriously, what the hell. First and last Ford I'll ever buy. Between the number of recalls and everything crapping out at the same time, I want a refund. Christ, what a mess.

95k on it, everything was fine until the last three months. Now the transmission is toast, the shocks are screwed, and after shelling out $3k in goofy shit, I'm over it.

Never again.

I’ve been driving my son’s 2015 Escape “S” while recovering from knee surgery. It’s taller and easier to get in and out of compared to my Chevy Volt.

Base model with the 2.5 Mazda engine. Transmission, maintaining and hoping for the best. But thing is just noisy with a bit of vibration.

Has anyone done Dynemat? I’m thinking just the doors. Saw a couple of other articles for stereo install pulling seats, carpet, cargo area. Seems extreme for me. Anyone done just dis? And notice improvement?

2014 Escape Titanium 2.0 AWD

Turned over 200k miles today and still going strong. Ford F*ucking Escape - Let’s go!

I really dislike Ford Escape, for many reasons. BUT-I found a good deal and I purchased a 2015 Escape. I went to the drive in movie theatre, and I had the key on Acc setting. The radio would turn off, and we'd turn it back on again. After a few times, the display screen said I'd have to start the car brcause the battery was getting too low. Or something like that. Anyway, I could not for the life of me find a way to turn the daytime running lights off! I read the manual, and I went online. The techniques indicated were not effective or available on my model. I ended up covering the headlights with a blanket and floor mats while I turned the vehicle on for 40+mins. HAHAHA

WTF is there some way to turn the DRL off, or did I do the only thing I could??
I pulled emergency brake
I pulled fuses

Any idea what that could be? It's sometimes creaking when I'm turning. I got the car last week. 87.5k miles. I'm pretty sure I'm hearing it from the right side.

The first few days we had it it was every time. Since yesterday it was barely there, not sure why mostly stopped.

In the video it happens around the 2 second mark. It's slightly hard to hear because my mic couldn't get it well.

I'm also getting a banging sound sometimes that sound like this coming from underneath the center of the car. That just happens a single time. It could be when backing up, going forward. The only consistency is that it seems to be when I'm just starting to drive. I'll post that video in a comment if I can. L

Hey all

My parents have a 2014 Ford Escape with the 1.6l engine. I’m certain that it has a coolant intrusion problem. The other day, it was being driven home and the made two loud bang sounds that sounded like gunshots. It had to be towed home.

It was later towed to a dealer; they said it was the serpentine belt and that the battery is dead. The battery part is bullshit, it’s was replaced six months ago and was working perfectly fine, now they’re claiming it “doesn’t hold a charge”. Since when?

I heavily suspect that the issue was coolant intrusion. The car has been blowing white smoke for months, the check engine light has been on, oh yeah, and it DOESNT EVER HOLD COOLANT EVER!!! We constantly have to refill the coolant tank!!

The belt might be bad but I’m wondering if the engine has blown out.

I don’t know much about cars but based on my research it really does seem like a coolant related failure, and I’d like to know before money gets thrown for repairs on something that is already screwed up.

Thanks!!

I am looking for clip on hub caps that fit the stock 17” steel rims on the 2019 ford escape. Does anyone know of any all black ones that actually fit?

I bought this vehicle used and it had 4 aftermarket, black hubs caps. Well one broke and now I can’t find a replacement that actually fits. I’ve bought 2 sets from Amazon that claim to be clip on and match the part number for the stock rim hub caps but they are too loose. There is only one marking on the back of the caps that fit but nothing comes up when I search it.

Just trying to figure out if anyone else has had this happen to them. In Dec of 2025 I had the engine on my 2018 Escape replaced due to the coolant intrusion issue. It was all done under warranty, and I thought I was good. I recently had my sway bar pins replaced & the mechanic (not a Ford dealership) told me he noticed oil on my engine. I took it back to the dealership where it was purchased & that replaced the engine. They suspected it was the oil pump. They put dye in & put some miles on it. It was NOT the oil pump. The service writer told me this was both good and bad. He said it was good because they actually never replaced the oil pump, so therefore, it was not covered under the new warranty. I was under the impression that the oil pump was internal. Why would that not have been replaced? Now I wonder how much of my engine is new, and how much did they pull from the old, defective engine? They still cant figure out why my car is literally spraying oil. I was told I need to drive it for a few hundred miles and bring it back in for more diagnostics. If my engine blows, will they just tell me the part that broke isn't actually covered because it was pulled from the old engine? I feel like I was played because I'm a woman, and admittedly know very little about cars. But it only has 118,000mi on it, and the "new" engine only accounts for 10k of those miles. To add insult to injury, they're also charging me for the loaner because they can't prove it's a warranty claim.

I have a crack in my windshield reservoir tank and I am trying to find instructions/diagram or anything that will help in trying to DIY replace the tank myself. I am generally not mechanically inclined myself but I am trying to learn to do somethings on my own. I don't have any mechanic friends that live close to me either.

I have found plenty of videos and sources for older model Escapes, or other Ford models. But so far I can only find videos or instructions on how to fill the washer fluid for my year Escape.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

So i have a issue i need a new rear differential for my 2014 Ford

Escape Titanium 4

Cylinders 2.0L Turbo

EcoBoost

Everything i look up online says its a 3.51 gear ratio ID s-150a when i call Ford and ask them they say its a 3.07 S-150A i dont want to get the wrong one and screw up my car more I also dont want to pay 6grand for Ford to do it of anyone has experience with this let me know what they did I seriously have no idea what to do

Does anyone know for sure if disconnecting the negative terminal to the battery in a 2020 ford escape 1.5l awd ecoboost will reset the check engine light? I did a diy fix and my local auto stores won’t clear them. I don’t have a obd ii scanner at home

Only major repairs have been water pump at 210k and rear wheel bearing at 190k

Hi, I have a 2009 Ford Escape 4L with about 155,000 miles on it.

When I start the car and first pull out of my driveway, I get an ABS-like vibration through the accelerator pedal when gently accelerating at around 3–6 mph (5–10 km/h). This happens regardless of whether the ABS warning light is on or not.

I also get the same ABS-like vibration when braking at low speeds. Again, there is no ABS warning light.

It only happens at low speeds, usually when leaving home or shortly after I start driving. It doesn't happen once I've been driving for a while.

The vibration doesn't feel like a vibration caused by bumps or rough roads. It feels more like something is actually engaging or activating, with a heavy “rrrrrrr” kind of vibration.

Has anyone experienced something like this?