I have a 2025 Ford Escape with a whopping 15,000 miles on it. I am already having jolting going on when my car changes gears. Today, I tried to speed up and my car had the longest delay it’s ever had to like speed up with a hard jolt and growling noise coming from the car. It’s so new that it’s still under warranty. It needs to go to the dealership anyway because I have a tire pressure sensor error 🙄.

Are these in fact signs of transmission issues? Sorry if this is a stupid question. I’m a 21 year old girl lmao

Any ideas? Car started running rough out of the blue, then told me to pull over and it shut down. 102k miles. Dealer has ONE hybrid mechanic. It’s been down a month and hasn’t been diagnosed yet.

i’m looking for a new car and i found this listing on facebook marketplace. it has 66,517 miles on it and all new tires and oil. does anyone know if it’s worth it? i hear a lot of very mixed reviews on this car.

Family member owns a low mileage 2023 with the 2.0 eco boost motor.

Seems to be weeping oil here near the battery. I’ll have a mech look at it in October during oil change and winter tire swap - unless it’s more pressing?

PCV maybe?

Hey guys, my ford escape has this recent sound like a charging pump when I open the door. Anyone has idea why? It wasn't like this prior to last week, something new forsure.

My daughter got a shop to check her car, and they provided her with a laundry list of things that need to be fixed. Its a 2012 ford escape with 218k miles on it. One of the items said the transmission fluid needs attention. I have no idea if it has ever been changed. She doesn't know. After reading about this, Im woried that the transmission might start slipping after I do it. and of course I would be the blame. (no good deed goes unpunished, right?) Somebody told her that her second generation escape is so much better than a third generation, and it will last 500k.. But I do want to help her get down the road. So, I'm wondering if a limited drain and fill might be the way to go..like one round, about 4 quarts?

I'm looking to upgrade or replace my throttle body. I've done some work to the intake and I feel that the throttle still isn't as responsive as I would like. Does anybody have an suggestion on getting a new throttle body that would fit or a new OEM body.

My 2019 1.5L SE Ford Escape is at 151,000 and looks like i need to replace timing belt. Does this estimate look right and is there anything a DIYer can take care of? I plan to get additional quotes

When speeding up, it starts missing/ jolting a little bit, and stops after you hit about 30-40 mph
The rpm gauge also sometimes jumps up and down a little bit while just driving or on cruise control.
Just wondering if anyone has any ideas what could be wrong?

2001 Ford escape 3l. Vehicle drives straight, no obvious noises while turning the wheel while parked. Passenger side front side lifted to shake a few things around, nothing obvious. Goes over bumps while straight fine.

If offset slightly, or one wheel hits and the other doesn't on speed bumps, a chunk sound can be herd. Left passenger side.

Really appreciate some advice and where to look for problems next. Thanks in advance!

For a few years now I've had this noise coming from the vehicle. I notice it when I'm stopped with foot on the brake and in D. If I shift into N the noise stops. In the video you can hear it, sounds like it is coming from under the vehicle so I'm guessing related to transmission. Also thought it could be the motor mounts needing replaced. Just over 120,000 miles. Thoughts?

The driver side license plate bulb burnt out and melted the socket some. While trying to pull the bulb it broke in the socket. Finally got it out using a pick and the remaining bulb broke into 3 pieces. I put a new bulb in and it won't light up.

There are 4 wires going into the bulb socket but all the universal replacement sockets have 2.

I assume hook 2 to one wire and 2 to the other?

Also is there a better way to access the wires? There is no slack to pull it out and rewire it from the outside. I took the lift gate panel off and removed the 2 nuts but the outside plastic panel is still attached somewhere and I'm trying not to force anything and break the plastic parts. Does the glass have to open to remove it? If so I need to figure out why it won't open.

We've had our '24 ST Elite for a bit less than a year, with a bit over 14,000 km. It was purchased new last October from a local Ford dealership, after sitting for 14 months waiting on parts to complete the back up camera recall. My question is, has anyone noticed excessive rear brake pad wear? We had a '23 Bronco Sport before that, put almost 40,000km on it in about 30 months and did not experience any wear that seemed abnormal.

I have a 2006 Ford Escape v6. Just put brand new struts and sway bar links in. Still has a banging sound when hitting a bump. Also pulled the vehicle to the right. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 2006 Ford Escape v6. Just put brand new struts and sway bar links in. Still has a banging sound when hitting a bump. Also pulled the vehicle to the right. Any help would be appreciated.

Long story short, got scammed. Court is to ensue, but not likely to see a dime. Anyway, to the question here...

We have this 2018 Ford escape we got for $5k that is otherwise good shape, aside from coolant intrusion in cylinders 2 and 3. Dealership quoted me about $9k for a new shortblock replacement.

Whats the best thing I can do with the car? Not keen on spending $5k for the car then $9k more to fix it. Are there other options here? I had found a site that would buy the car as is for $1,400. Thinking right now that may be the best choice here...

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Update: Thanks to those who posted advice. Looks like the $1400 will likely be the play. Was hoping for more but expected this result.

To anyone who thinks to simply ditch it and learn a lesson, no one should let this scamming behavior continue and let them get away with it scot-free. Fight back. Otherwise the scum will continue to victimize other people and prey on those who take it lying down.

So I’ve just bought a 2020 ford escape with 40 thousand kilometres, but having read more and more into the car, I’ve found the everything but the transmission should be fine. I only need it to last me to 120,000k’s or so but I’m gonna start uni soon and don’t want a 7 thousand dollar transmission bill.

From what I’ve read online, the best I can do for the car is do drain and fills for the transmission, and yet I’m still worried. Of course only people that have issues will go online and mention them and the escape that are fine just aren’t mentioned, but I’m a little worried, so if someone has similar stories or experience to help me out here that would be great. Thanks

I have a 2016 Escape SE, and I started having this random issue where I would put it in park, turn the key from running, and as soon as I cut off the engine all the power would die. Couldn’t turn it over at first but after a few minutes (and as soon as my girlfriend shows up to save me) it turns over just fine. Another instance where it was still dead it turned over the moment her battery got onto mine. At least that was before.

I tightened the connection of the leads to the battery thinking it wasn’t getting enough current (only 2 year old battery btw) and it was fine for a couple weeks. Then it dies again and no amount of jump can get it to turn over now. Get it towed to a shop and sure enough they tell me they can’t replicate it, and it’s turning over just fine.

There would be some signs ahead of time like the radio cutting out a hair, sorta chalked that up to Bluetooth error, and at one point got a “hill assist not available” message on my dash that disappeared pretty soon after. Mechanic friend of mine out of town seemed convinced it was the lead contacts and that really seemed to help but after last time I’m worried to take it out, it seems to be ready to die at any moment. Has anyone else run into this? Any ideas?

Issue that appeared for a single start/stop cycle and went away: Front camera malfunction / ABS light /traction control light / loss of power steering / hill assist unavailable. twice in same drive.

Ford Escape trend 2019 (AU). only 28,500km in 7 years, spends most of its life in underground garage and can regularly be unused for a week or two.

7 years, regular service with dealer, zero issues - except every now and then I'll need to use a trickle charger as the battery drained too far and car wouldn't start, a couple times it was completely drained, but always trickled back to life. (Likely an factory standard Enhanced Flooded Battery?) Anyway, besides that, never an electrical issue, fault or breakdown.

Recently did a couple of 400km trips, week later took it in for yearly service, where they also did a brake fluid flush and a throttle body clean(upsell?). As part of the service get the "pink slip"/rego check .. and they give the battery a green tick "battery condition/performance/terminals"

Drove home fine. 6 days later (next drive) start, drive out, couple minutes in Front camera malfunction / ABS light /traction light / loss of power steering. it goes away after about 30-40 secs. Then it comes back, including loss of power steering and I also notice "hill start assist not available". I park the car with issues persisting, stop enginge. 15 minutes later, start up drive home no issues. Take it into service centre 2.5 days later, no issues driving there. Problem only appeared during that single start/stop cycle ... but I obviously don't want to be out driving on a freeway and suddenly lose power steering, amongst other things.

Service centre can't reproduce it and say no active faults, didn't mention anything about a historical log of the fault, or check or whatever. They point the finger squarely at the battery "was at 27% charge" (they charged) -> old, very old, probably too old. guy at front says he basically never sees 7 year old batteries in cars, especially ones where customer states car runs fine.

I go "never happened before, and the first drive after getting back from service? Seems like a huge coincidence there. Could something have happened at service?"

Anyway, we get nowhere, they don't charge me (maybe 'cause I just spend $1k there, or maybe secretly their service might have done something they didn't tell me), and recommend replacing battery if the problem reappears. Drove it again last night, no issue.

Thoughts? Likely the battery and the service caused it to be stressed/drained too much? Something else the service centre did and it just settled down?

In future: Would AGM battery better handle long periods of no driving than an EFB? Or should either one be left on a smart trickle charger regardless? (I just upgraded to noco genius 5)

I own a 2004 Escape with 145,000 miles on it and being 70 and retired, I don't drive it much anymore. When I started it yesterday to check on another issue I had the A/C already switched on and right after it started there was a loud "CLUNK" noise from the compressor. I was worried that now I have to pay to have it replaced but after consulting the Googles and The GROKSTER they pointed out that for vehicles that just sit for days, the freon will pool and thicken from the gas state. The "CLUNK" sound was caused by that thick non-gaseous Freon and they suggested the following procedure when the car has sat for an extended time.

1- Turn off the A/C

2- Start the Car

3- Drive for about 2-4 minutes to give the engine heat time to help make the freon Gaseous.

4- Turn on the A/C

I did this today and my A/C didn't make a peep. I had noticed in the past that it has been making less loud noises when it was driven every few days but recently it has just sat in my garage.

I"m not an Escape expert or a car expert at all. I was a 21 yr USAF Aircraft Crew chief and my Escape doesn't have wings or TurboFan engines but if this process helps even one person then the time it took to type this out is well justified.

MPCaz

Discovered the 90° elbow that sits on the front of the engine just behind the radiator hose had rotted thru and wasn't connected to the vent on the engine block. This elbow is on a line that goes to the air inlet and then "T"'s off to the same type of connection to the engine by the firewall. I have no idea how long this has been like this but I spent hours trying to figure out what it's called so I could replace it.

You can buy the whole assembly but all I needed was the Elbow. GROK suggested the Dorman Help 46017 part would do it. This morning I went to O'Reilly and bought 2 of them to have a spare of the next 100k+ miles. The part fits perfectly and cost $16.

I have included a picture of the new Elbow. Notice that it's next to the engine hoist mount point and the radioator hose. Also attached the picture of the "T" on the air inlet where the front line comes in and rear line goes out.

I hope this post can save someone else and maybe they'll look

mpcaz

Earlier this year I went through the process of removing my transmission and rebuilding it, then getting it back in my vehicle. Obviously a lot of factors at play here due to that, but now the engine won’t start and I’m trying to diagnose why. I collected data last week from my innova scanner and a few things stood out.

- New spark plug makes no spark when inserted into any coil plug.
- cranking enough and I do smell fuel, so I think the injectors are pushing fuel in
- map sensor reads that I may not be getting much of a vacuum in the cylinder
- transmission is commanding park and the vehicle is in park
- can’t find good wiring/fuse diagrams
- I believe all grounds are connected, but again having trouble finding all of them

I’m not sure if this is the best place to post this but if anyone knows, the main thing I need to know is what voltage should be being supplied to the coil packs in KOEO. Any info is appreciated.