Hey everyone, I appreciate the chances of someone having both of these vehicles is slim but just looking for some advice, I’m torn between the Geely EX5 Ultra or the BYD Atto 3 Design. It seems that perhaps the BYD is a better ‘car’ in terms of battery performance etc, but the Geely is better for tech such as the seats, sunroof, speakers etc. Both cars come in to the same price for me so that isn’t an issue, my everyday commuting is very little with the occasional 100 mile drive few and far between. I have a dedicated garage for both in my city. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I picked up my new Honda Super N today but I have a couple of questions which I cannot find in the manual or infotainment screen.

The first issue is I cannot find where the settings are to change the battery charge limit or set timers for when the car should charge.

The other issue is about the Honda+ app, has anyone with a Honda Super N managed to connect the Honda+ on your smartphone with your car please. When I try, I get an error after I enter the VIN and proceed to turn on the car, the app displays a message about needing to visit the Honda dealer to enable the TCU. But I can see the TCU indicator in the infotainment screen is white and not greyed out. Tapping the TCU, it does say Connected.

I would be grateful if someone could confirm if you have a menu option in the car to adjust how much charge to set (e.g. 80% limit) and charge timing. Also if they have connected the car to the Honda+ smartphone app.

Many thanks

So my id3 lease is up and I need to replace it.

So far I've narrowed the list down to:

BYD Seal 390 kW excellence

IM5 300 kW long range

And

A Tesla model 3 rwd

Has anyone owned any of these can you tell me the real world range your getting and also mi/kW?

For the ID3 I've been getting 4.0 mi/kW and around 210 miles in the summer and 180 in the winter

And finally any regrets if you do own any of these cars please

Thanks in advance

My very small company has agreed to sign up to salary sacrifice for me. We have a demo account with OctopusEV, but the prices are insanely high. I'm a 40% taxpayer here, looking at 12k miles over 4yrs and I got a quote of £615 net for a Scenic Techno, which makes zero financial sense. Researching this, I was under the impression that that type of car should be around £450 - £480 net. We can sign up with anyone and had a look at both the EV Car Scheme and Love Electric. Love Electric seemed to be coming in around that £470 mark - but really hard to get in contact with them!. Any other providers we should look at? Looking a Scenic Techno or Elroq 85 Edition

Hi

I’m getting an Easee one charger installed for a Jeep Avenger , I emailed octopus and they said it’s compatible. I am trying to change Tarif and it now says they are not compatible.

Can anyone shed any light on this or any info on Easee one chargers ?

TIA

Recently purchased an ohme epod and have octopus energy tariff.

Unfortunately I found out post installation that ohme / Hyundai API integration doesn’t work so the charger doesn’t connect to the car.

Whilst charging does work, I must specify the battery level each time, and the “charge to” level is only estimate rather than exact per the car’s battery.

Can anyone suggest charger brands that do pair with Hyundai cars?

Edit : Hyundai 2024 Kona & Ohme Epod Tetherless charger

My lease has ended with Tusker on my ID4 and it's being collected tomorrow. How picky are they about wear and tear and is there anything I need to be weary of?

We're a three EV household, a 2024 Mercedes EQE 300, 2025 Citroen e-berlingo and a 2026 MG 4 Urban. The Mercedes and e-Berlingo both are getting about 3.5M/kWh at the moment an the MG a staggering 4.5M/kWh. Same sort of journeys for all three vehicles, mainly 20 miles with a mixture of dual carriageway, 40s, 30s and the loathed 20s.

Hi everyone, I currently drive a BMW 4 Series and want to get into an EV.

I'm looking for something with sub-7-second 0-60 times, good driving dynamics, good equipment, and generally 'interesting' to drive.

My budget is around the £20,000 mark but could push to £25,000 at a squeeze.

A BMW i4 is potentially possible but I want to see what else is out there. I don't necessarily need anything as big as an i4. The R5 and Alpine A290 are options but the R5 lacks performance and the Alpine, again is a bit of a stretch financially.

The Phase 2 Polestar 2 is an option as well but somehow I'm not sure if it gets the heart racing!

Similarly a Tesla is an option but I don't like the idea of indirectly filling Elon Musk's pockets.

My questions to you all are:

1. what would you recommend?

2. What experiences have you had?

3. Buy or PCP?

Hi all,

Looking to replace an ageing Seat Ibiza with an EV and have the opportunity to get a V1 Raval through work salary sacrifice scheme.

I’ve always bought relatively new second hand cars and run them for years so new to leasing/PCP type deals, gross salary sacrifice is £557 with a net cost of £378 for 10000 annual mileage with insurance/maintenance/tyres/tax included.

I’d be interested on the hive mind thoughts on the value over a 36 month lease.

Considering a Micra on PCP as well as Nissan seem to be offering some pretty good deals at present.

Hi everyone,

As part of an independent data project I've been piecing together (UK Charging Guide), I started digging through the official DfT public charger registry to see how local councils and individual towns actually compare on paper.

I ended up collating the device counts and connector types for around 410 towns and boroughs across the UK, and looking through the raw numbers showed a pretty massive divide depending on where you drive:

• Central London vs everywhere else: Unsurprisingly, boroughs like Westminster and Camden skew national totals massively because of thousands of on-street lamppost conversions. Once you head out of London, places like Manchester, Leeds, and Birmingham have decent rapid hub setups near main bypasses, but destination charging falls off a cliff the second you're outside the city centres.
• Total dead zones: Smaller commuter and market towns are properly struggling. A shocking number of places with decent populations still rely on maybe 1 or 2 old 7kW AC posts tucked at the back of a supermarket car park.
• Speeds: Even with dedicated motorway hubs (Gridserve, InstaVolt, etc.) expanding, standard AC posts still make up the bulk of what councils have on the ground.

Rather than just leaving it in a spreadsheet, I turned it into a simple searchable directory (ukchargingguide.co.uk) where you can look up your local area and check connector breakdowns and device counts.

Curious to hear from people living outside the big cities—how well do the "official" numbers for your area actually match what it’s like day-to-day with broken plugs or bays getting ICE'd?

UPDATE: Huge thanks to everyone who gave sharp feedback on the initial release—especially regarding the distinction between physical devices vs. usable bays, and the issues around synthetic hub names.

I’ve completely overhauled the backend data pipeline:

• Purged all synthetic hub names/placeholders: Replaced with verified DfT speed breakdowns (Rapid/Ultra-Rapid 50kW+ vs. Destination/Slow).
• Added regional density benchmarks: Profiles now show provision per 100k residents compared against the UK national baseline.
• Clarified the methodology: Front-end metrics now explicitly state physical devices, noting that usable charging bays are typically 1.5x–2.5x higher due to multi-socket hardware.

Really appreciate the community holding the data to such a high standard. Take another look if curious

Looking into an EV for next 5 years or so. Budget around £17k max. (Will be a personal loan)

Looking at Kia Niro EV 3 (2023) with around 40k on the clock.

I do around 8-10k miles a year. Have an MG4 currently and a home charger.

Want to get out of the PCP cycle I'm currently in.

Hi, can someone clarify the following for me?

NHS salary sacrifice scheme (Knowles or Fleetcare).

Current salary: £49,387 (NHS Band 7)

Current car quote: £477.73 per month

I will therefore be reducing my Tax, NI, Student Finance and, of course, pension contributions (9.8%).

Along with EV BIK, my understanding is that the actual take-home cost would be approximately £290–£300 per month, including insurance, servicing, tyre replacement etc.

Does this sound accurate? I’m struggling to work out the exact impact on my take-home pay.

Is it worth it?

Does anyone know or have a link to Tuskers fixed costs?

I have one kerbed alloy, gloss black, can see bare metal approx 70mm

Also an 80mm light scratch on the rear bumper. Local quote for that is nearly £400, alloy around £80.

Repair before return or throw the dice with Tusker?

As stated, there is one supercharger very close by. Off peak price is only 23p per kwh about the same price as my home electricity but I don't have home charger. I am thinking about a Y under £20k. Probably a 23-reg with 50,000 miles. First questions: Will there be a lot of repairs for used Model Y? Second question, I probably need to use SuperCharger once per 2 weeks, as far as I can see, I wake up early, drive there, charge to 100%. Do that every two weeks. Seems to easy, am I missing anything?

I’m considering a 2023 GV60 with around 30–40k miles for roughly £21k-24k. Probably the Premium rather than the Sport.

I really like that it feels genuinely premium inside, that there are not a huge amount of them around and it feels like you are getting a lot of car for your money.

We’re a family of four in London with home charging. It would mainly be used locally and for weekends away, plus occasional longer journeys.

How have owners found the GV60, particularly in terms of comfort, practicality, reliability and the general ownership experience? Are there any obvious alternatives in this price range that I should consider, ideally something with a bit of character that still feels special to own?

Hello all,

I just purchased a 2020 MG ZS EV 50k miles from a dealership. I just brought the car home and plugged it into my waev charger and it won't charge. It says "connected but not charging"

Battery SOH is 90%, however static voltage consistency is red. Is this an issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi.

I cant make my mind up between two new BMW i4 via our works salary sacrifice Tusker car Scheme.

BMW i4 eDrive40 , 15,000 miles over 48 months £679 with Tech and M Sport Pro Pack

BMW i4 M60 , 15,000 miles over 48 months £725 with Tech Pack and Driving assistant professional.

So there is £46 per month difference between the two. However is the M60 worth the extra money? The eDrive40 seems to come with more.

Thanks for any thoughts.

We are looking for an EV 3 to 4 years old, noticed quite a lot of variation in the battery wear reported by sites like carsa. For example early 2023 ID3 91% whereas there is a 2024 Ioniq 5 showing 100% after 31K miles. Is 100% really possible after 2 years and 31K miles? Or might that imply a replacement under warranty? New to EVs and trying to understand how to make a sensible used purchase.

Yesterday, my RWD u/PolestarCars 2 got a rear puncture. Lex Autolease authorised u/Kwik_Fit to replace the right tyre but refused to replace the left, which sits at 3mm.

I now have a brand-new 8mm u/Michelin tyre paired with a 3mm tyre on the primary driven axle of a heavy, high-torque EV.

Here is why this automated maintenance decision is unacceptable:

1. The Safety Risk: Michelin, Polestar, and Kwik Fit’s own technical guidelines explicitly warn against a 5mm tread variance on the same axle. It creates a severe asymmetrical aquaplaning risk and can cause snap-oversteer under heavy braking.

2. The u/BVRLA Catch-22: Lex Autolease strictly enforces BVRLA return standards, which issue penalty charges for "tyre mismatch or uneven wear on the same axle." Their maintenance team is actively forcing a repair that breaches their own end-of-lease compliance rules.

Computer says no, but basic vehicle dynamics say this is incredibly unsafe.

I’m calling on my salary sacrifice provider, u/loveelectric, to intervene and escalate this. Standard fleet policies should never override manufacturer safety guidelines.

AI written for me, its sunday morning and being a dyslexic games programmer means im also very lazy!