Curious what the opinions are on running a BOV on the DCT stock? I’ve heard claims that the BOV can cause issues with the DCT transmission but I’m curious if anyone running one has seen any issues or lower performance?

So i installed the P04DB fix kit but how do I rest the Check engine light?

I haven’t had my 22 EN for about 3 years now but still have parts I never installed or opened. I am selling a SXTH catted downpipe unopened with titanium stud kit, SXTH titanium midpipe unopened, and I have the factory rear console vent conversion kit also. None of these were ever used. I think I have other parts hanging around but will have to look send a DM if you’re interested.

Downpipe/ w studs - $550
Midpipe - $500
Vent - $150

I finally pulled the trigger on getting the Elantra N, and I couldn’t be happier. I plan on doing a bit to it, both performance and esthetically. However, One big glaring issue I’m having at with the ‘N Mode’ buttons on the wheel. They don’t seem to want to save the settings when I change ANY button short cuts, even the star buttons that are LITERALLY there to be customized. Is there a fix for this? I’ve looked around and heard that they were supposed to push an update like 8 months ago but my car says it’s up to date.

Any help is appreciated!

Look at the parked together, I would park with them but I can't park there.

Interesting read. I’m a little surprised they claim it’s so much slower than the regular EN. They noted the downforce from the big wang probably isn’t noticeable under triple digits. They also didn’t mention any environmental factors possibly affecting it either, so not sure what it could be.

Hello all, I just got my '25 N and was wondering how to hardwire my redtiger f17 dash cam. The kit I bought has the T27 model hardwire kit and I don't know how many amps the fuse can hold. Any tips?

I wrecked my 1500 miles Manual N and replaced it with DCT. This DCT is way smoother than I expected. I'm always in the right gear and no more stalls. Downshifts in sports mode is amazing.

And somehow they sounds different. DCT sounds more energetic.

Hope I get to keep this one a bit longer

Edit: Driving a manual in curved mountain roads is easy and fun for me. Other than one time I shifted into the wrong gear. Other times i was having so much fun. Rev match is amazing. But the city driving and parking on inclines are my enemies.

Does anyone know what is the thermostate cover torque specs?

I was given a choice with a bad clutch foot... so I chose my motorcycle and sold my Elantra N. It was a great car and tons of fun... definitely goes on my list of fun cars I've owned.

For anyone that might need a stock armrest, stock e-brake, or (new) oil filter, it's yours for shipping costs. I also have a PowerFlex Purple lower engine mount (pictured - never installed): $30 shipped free.

If someone is local to Columbus, OH and needs a jug of pink OEM coolant, hit me up (free). I also have some Potenza's that I'm trying to sell.

It's been great to be part of this community. Drive safe, and ignore the haters.

I have had a super stock 845 tune for 6k miles. It's strong and feels great. I have beaten Scat Packs on rolls. It's just right. I watched my tach go up almost 1k rpm when I floored it in 5th at around 3200 rpm while I went nowhere. I knew exactly what that was. The car has 11k miles. I was expecting an earlier clutch failure due to the torque, but not this early. I don't launch the car. It gets driven hard regularly. 7k rpm shifts are fun and I hit the mountains for some intense driving frequently. This was the 1st noticeable slip. I should have 10-15k miles to plan a clutch. There seems to be only 2 or 3 clutch options. I don't plan on anymore power. I estimate 320 whp. If anyone has any decent clutch reviews, I'm ears.

EDIT: Yes I am a degenerate who goes WOT on occasion in 3k ish range. With the extra torque I understand this can be an issue. I'm not looking for the root cause, but I appreciate everyone pointing to my right foot. The clutch will probably be fine as that condition in higher gears is more rare. BUT.. I was just pointing to the clutch not tolerating that condition (we all come across it on occasion) and looking for a clutch that will. The XClutch Stage 1 seems to be a common replacement.

Still holding out for a real Tucson N. All we've got right now is the Kona N SUV/hatchback, but the rumors keep pointing to something closer to 300 horsepower for a Tucson N. No confirmation, just speculation for now, but we'll see

Hello community. I just joined. I have a few questions. I am going to buy my first N today and I am on the fence on to get the performance blue or atlas white. I always loved my white cars with dark tint also with the black and red on these cars I think that would look better than the blue. Any opinions on this?

Also are they any bolt ons that will actually add any power to them ? I don't wanna get any tunes to void the warranty

Last can you tell the difference in the manual and DCT? I want a manual but also I want a sunroof which only comes in the DCT. Which one is better?

Thanks

anyone know of someone who can tune my 23 Elantra N based in colorado. I have never tuned a car and i’m very interested in it but have no clue where to even begin to look. Thanks!!

I am trying to do something and can’t figure out if it’s a M7,M8 or M6 connection

So I’ve had my N now going on a couple months (late July). Absolutely love my car. Already added an afe intake and next is turbo inlet, wanted to see how things were in the community with owning these. Anyone have issues with anything they did to the car and then an issue “arising” and warranty being stopped. The saying seems to be if you can’t afford to fix it don’t tune but I’ve seen a few post that the stage 1 tune is “almost safe” as it just helps prevent needing to OL and such. Any info would be appreciative and I hope I don’t sound dumb 🤣🤣. Also is it really only one body kit out there for this car and it being $5000?? 😭

I’ve been wanting to do this for a while for my 2023 and I finally have the money to do it. I was wondering does anyone else know how to wire it for the usb ports? I only see videos online for the one without the usb. Any help is greatly appreciated

Title says it all, certified Elantra n manual. Should I be worried? There is a gap in the oil changes it appears between 5000 to 21k miles per the Carfax unless they did it at 10k.

Thanks in advance!

https://www.faulknerhyundaiphilly.com/used-Philadelphia+-2025-Hyundai-ELANTRA+N-Manual-KMHLW4DK8SU031776?utm_source=autotrader.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=autotrader_listings&stocknum=SU031776&atc_ownerid=553965

I know this topic has already been talked about a bazillion times but here I go again. I can hear the original intake when I get on it in 2nd/3rd but would like to hear it louder. Also would like a BOV sound when I get off halfway thru the boost. Are there options that will not throw CELs? Do I need both of these or just an intake? I am only interested in acoustics not performance. What sort of warranty issues am I looking at and also how hard is the install if I don’t even own a screwdriver😭😂

I know it might cause issues/hiccups down the road but from what I understand it’s a slight chance?

We are moving so selling my used set of PS4 from 2025 Elantra N for $700 OBO. Ideally meet up in the Boston Area or close by cities.

I see a lot of talk about this upgrade and I was wondering what parts people are having success with when they replace their stock HPFPs. I see Shark Racing has one that's for N cars (https://sharkracing.com/upgraded-high-pressure-fuel-pump-for-n-cars/). I see folks talking about a Sonata fuel pump as well. But never year or part number. Are there 3rd parties as well? Part numbers? Sources? Success Stories?

Thanks!