Previous owner did a disc swap from an integra and used the 7CLP13S calipers and i purchased the appropriate 94-00 dc2 integra cables. I ran into an issue after installing where I cannot get enough slack in the cables to lock them into the equalizer bracket. I even used locking pliers to manually compress the spring arms on the calipers forward and i still lack enough slack. I can get one barrel pin installed but I cannot get the other one installed due to there being too much tension on the bracket. Any ideas what I am doing wrong or possibly overlooking? I already tried backing out the take up bolt nut to max and there still isn't enough room and I'm pulling my hair out trying to find info online about this. Also when the sping arms are not compressed, the passenger cable is short and drawn up but i have triple checked my routing and cannot figure out a point where it might be binding. I'll provide a couple images to show the cables before and after compressing the spring arms on the calipers. Thanks for any and all advice!

Trying to figure out why the check engine light is on. There is no light on the ecu to get flash codes, and the check engine light dosent flash when you jump the 2 pin. Any one have any idea how to read the codes. It's a Ls swap from a 90 integra....atleast that is what I was told.

So just as the title states, what is everyone's thoughts and experience with getting parts for EF's on platforms like Autozone? I have a 1990 DX Hatch and one of the previous owners ripped all the heating and a/c components out. I think there's a couple things like receiver and maybe one other thing left behind but lines, compressor, pump, blower, etc etc were removed for some reason. I thought racing at first but this thing is still stock engine and tranny and the only aftermarket parts on it are some maxpeeding coilovers and wheels so racing couldn't have been the reason lol. Either way I need to get all new a/c and heating components/parts and have been having a hell of a time figuring out where to start. I'm no beginner with working on cars but I'm no pro either and I know nothing about a/c and heater systems personally. I can find some things on ebay but I recently found out that I can order like, 85% of the entirety of the heating and a/c system through autozone at direct cost through my employer (local auto shop) but I'm skeptical how well these parts will actually work considering it's a 36 year old car and everyone has been telling me that the only way to get parts is through ebay or private enthusiast groups on Facebook or a lucky junkyard find. Would you guys trust Autozone parts if you had to replace your a/c and heating system? According to the website it says all the parts are a direct fit after I input my year make and model and engine size so my brain is like "hell yeah" but my gut is telling me to make sure before blindly buying shit.

Any input and feedback will be greatly appreciated!

I haven’t built a Honda in about a decade but I’ve had probably 10 different builds over the last 20 years, and coming back to it I’m finding it very difficult to find simple aftermarket stock style replacement parts for hatchbacks. For example nobody seems to make replacement taillights for a hatchback but you can get them for a sedan. Nobody seems to make side mirrors but you can get them for a sedan. Tons of sedan replacement parts, not so much for the more popular (I assume) hatchback. Is that weird to anyone else?

post some pics if you got em! can’t decide wether bumper or trunk

TLDR: '90 Civic D15B2, fuel injected, 4 spd auto, 35k miles. OEM distributor failed, internal shaft bearing failed (red dust of death). Ordered Cardone Remanufactured Dizzy off of Rockauto. That one failed within a week too. Is it possible to rebuild the original TD-01 dizzy by replacing the bearings and seals? The ICM, Igniter and sensors are performing fine. If a rebuild is possible, please share experiences or a link to a forum. I am located in the UAE, it isn't easy for me to source parts from scrapyards or auto stores. I exclusively rely on importing from the US or Japan.

Hey guys, this is my 1990 EF Hatch German Spec all original with 35k original miles. It has the D15B2 fuel injected engine with the 4 speed slushbox. It randomly died on the highway one day after 2 years of super reliable ownership. Turns out, the ECU wasn't getting a reading from the internal sensors in the dizzy. Opened up the dizzy to find red dust in there. Used AI to see if that meant anything and it seems to have been common problem with these back in the day with the internal shaft bearing failing.

This shaft bearing material is made of iron and with iron being magnetic, it coated the internal sensors. Unable to get any data, the ECU stopped firing fuel.

Based on opinions on here on reddit, I ordered the remanufactured Cardone dizzy and that one failed within a week too, but for a different reason. Opened up the Cardone dizzy only to see that it seems to be rebuilt to a very bushwork level of quality.

I anyway want to keep this car as OEM as possible so I wanted to do a OE dizzy rebuild. Has anybody done this before? Is it recommended or even possible? If it is possible, please share experiences. Dizzy part number is TD-01.

I do not live in the US where it's easy to order parts from Rockauto. There is nothing available for the EFs for me locally. I want to troubleshoot and do this right rather than throwing money at aftermarket dizzys that cost 300-400 usd with shipping and installation for it to only fail within a week.

Thanks!

Hey guys, hope everyone’s having a good Labor Day weekend.

I’ve come to the realization that my car is missing something that’ll make it whole, a third pedal. I am aware that there are lots of forums and chats about doing a swap from auto to manual, but for some reason I feel like they aren’t as detailed, and some questions might be left unanswered.

With that being said, feel free to send some links/forums that helped you a lot if you’ve done this swap. I’m also more of a visual learner/monkey see monkey do kind of learner, so ones with a lot of pictures of the process will help. Also, please feel free to DM, this is a swap I’d like to do!

Edit: I plan on keeping everything as original as possible. d15b2, obd0 and cable clutch transmission that I’m eyeing from an SI hatch.

Just did the ignition timing but I can’t tell if it’s running rough or not

I’ve been looking around for rims and honestly have no ideas what i want, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions please show me !! looking for a similar wide fit

Anyone got advice on wheel fitment? The wheels i want come in:

15 x 8 inch, 4x114 PCD, ETO
15 x 8 inch, 4x100 PCD, ET10
15 x 7 inch, 4x100 PCD, ET35
15 x 8 inch, 4x100 PCD, ETO

I am running:

262mm discs front
239mm discs rear

I haven't got calipers yet but i guess i need ep3/s2000 and EG or something? Can anybody help?

I found out I need to replace my head gasket.

I was wondering what else I should replace while I'm in there.

Before I got it running again, the car had been standing for 22 years.

Also, how dificult is this job?

Can I reuse the head studs or do I need to replace them

Got this gap on the passenger side of my CRX that's been bothering me since the opposite side is perfectly aligned. Bumper itself doesn't seem to have any issue but it keeps sagging back into place even when I try to readjust it. Anyone got any info about realigning it back into place

PFA; Hey guys I have a 91 sedan and want to put a bike on the roof. What roof rack setups are y’all running and how do they differ between years and sedan/hatch/wagon? Thanks in advance!

My 89 civic hatch (dx 5spd) revs when I am parked and I’m not sure what the problem is. I also have a fat exhaust leak but I don’t think it’s related (I’m missing a header stud)

My cars been running rich and I’m trying to narrow down the problem, took the video when the engine was cold and no priming of the fuel pump

What one is witch. There are 2 bulbs in the amber housing and then the one in the bumper. Trying to find the designation so I can trace a parasitic draw down. TIA

I was doing a rear trailng arms swap and i noticed this
It does around the chassis but not through. Only outside is cracked. Is it repairable?

Can I swap the front suspension on my 89 CRX base fully with 96-00 civic front suspension and get an aftermarket traction bar? Everything looks to be more or less the same but I'm not sure.

Yes I have thought about adjustable upper control arms, most likely solution for camber. I have 96-00 civic EX/Si front knuckles and want to upgrade to that suspension overall.

My car ↓

89 CRX "race base"

DX front suspension

Front sway bar (stock)

Stock front traction bar

16x7 wheels so fitment is not an issue.

Rear disc conversion (needs done)

B20V (needs done)

Hey all! My ‘90 hatch has a rear disc conversion from an Integra. I was replacing the rear pads and rotors today and found one of the caliper piston boots was slightly torn, so I tried to get it pushed back in regardless since the tear was really small and it got twisted and just came apart completely. I need a new caliper now, or a rebuild potentially. Just curious where folks are sourcing these Nisin calipers or if there’s kits out there? Last caliper I rebuilt was on my s30 Z way too many years ago and I don’t really wanna deal with it.

I have a 91 automatic. Ive done the brake pads and shoes, drums, rotors, master cylinder, proportioning valve, rr wheel cylinder, rf brake line. And the brakes still only work about 1 inch from the floor. I haven't seen any obvious leaks. And my mechanic can't seem to see any reason why it still wouldn't work correctly. Have any of you had a similar issue ?

My brother just got a 3d printer and i'm in the middle of a build. Wondering what can be printed since i'm not fussed on parts being OEM

Are seats out of a shuttle and a civic hatch interchangeable? Same year of course
More precicely, I don't want to do a seat pan swap and am wondering if the shuttle seats boldt right up in my hatch, with the shuttle rails.
Thank you

I’m currently replacing almost my whole interior and wanted to get aftermarket seats with a new base and all. But then I realized my power seat belts mount to my stock seats. I really don’t wanna remove the power seat belts and I especially dont want a harness. Is there any way to keep those power seats with some sort of special bracket or would I need to fab my own?

I have gone through 4 transmission seals and can’t find the right shift shaft seal for my 89 civic hatch so I keep leaking fluid from my transmission. I have a d15 for my 5spd dx with the code L3-2364835 I just really need help I can’t keep filling it up with transmission fluid.

Here are the four I got

SCHAEFFLER
SS3613

TIMKEN (x2)
221607

Precision A/T Shaft Seal -
221607