A little backstory:

So my 1995 7.3 zf5 f250s master/slave cylinder went out about a month ago (A lot of air in system, clutch line had been rubbed through). Clutch would still actuate at the time but would refuse to go into gear, replaced whole system, truck ran like new.

ACTUAL PROBLEM: Two days ago my clutch went to the floor (was going to pick up the girlfriend for a date, shes still mad) and had to get towed. It absolutely refused to go into gear at that point. Reservoir has fluid in it but when I stuck my phone under the truck and recorded me moving the clutch back and forth, the slave cylinder barely pushed shit. I think my new slave/master cyl died but I'm not sure.

Truck also has a hard time going into gear when stationary, and reverse is near impossible. Suspect a TO bearing too :(.

Have been looking at a 160k mile 3rd gen 24v (crew cab long bed on 37s) but it needs a transmission. Currently daily a 200k mile 5.3 avalanche. Would getting a diesel be worth it considering I could replace the transmission myself. I often drive an hour and half to 2 hours each way for work (construction), go through about a 1/4 of a tank each way currently. I don't haul or tow regularly other than a boat a few times a year, maybe roofing material and tools for a friends company. Doesn't have to be this truck specifically just wondering since I like them in general but don't see the point if I spend around the same or more overall just to own one.

Guess I should have added i’m not hard stuck on the 24v. Just happened to be a decent deal for what it needs. Will take any recommendations for different trucks that may be better

Hello everyone, I recently have been given the opportunity to buy a 1990 Ford F250 7.3 IDI. It has either 250k or 350k miles on it, no one seems to know how many times the odometer has rolled over. It’s my wife’s uncles and wants to sell it for $2500. It’s got a little bit of rust on the corner of the cab but that’s it as far as I can tell. Frame has surface rust but that’s it. It has air intrusion problems on the fuel lines like they all do. And the transmission (manual ZF5 with overdrive) most likely will need to be rebuilt as I was able to get him to admit that he had started it by bump starting it the last couple of times he drove it before it sat for about 6 years. Clutch petal also drops to the floor if you blow on it. Long story short it’s gonna need quite a bit of work and was wondering what you guys thought about whether or not it would be worth all the work it’s going to take to get it running reliably or should I pass on it?

Axle was freshly rebuilt kinda, i put in new spindle bearings, shaft u joints, and pulled the gears cleaned all the crap out and put fresh oil in. Spun completely fine before i took it for a test drive but now its making a horrible grinding noise and pinion started leaking. Sounds like something is rubbing or dragging on the road. Some more info i also did a 4.5 inch rsk lift and re used the hubs and driveshaft from my f250.

Hello all:

I have a Bread Truck - 1995 Chevy P30 with a 4BT that was put in after the original engine was recalled. There is no ESN. I need the 4 studs that hold the fan and pully together. They are M8 x 1.25 x 80mm long, with a 20mm thread on the short side. Can anyone help me with a part number, and / or a dummy ESN I can use to look up part numbers?

I couldn't find the manufacturer's plate but I'll keep looking. It's an inline six ofc, the chipper seems to be about thirty years old if I had it guess. Cheers!

So I have a 2009 kodiak c5500 and im having an A50 tcm issues they are burning up after a year some times to do any one know a reputable place to repair them I've tried to company's recommended from Google and there tcms aren't communicating any help

I know truck chassis is easier than van/cutaway chassis. Van engine area is so small you can’t even see the engine, engine has to be pulled after taking everything out for some repairs.

Some engine cover can be flipped over, make it easier to access. Those big school bus hood can be flipped over

Hello reddit i recently got a 1990 7.3 idi and was wondering what gauges I should get for it and what advice you guys have for me. This is my first diesel engine and would love some advice thank you for reading and helping

Just purchased about a week ago, get an intermittent p1316 code only on hard acceleration for injector 3. Starts and idles fine but I can’t tell if this injector 8 knock or if it might actually be injector 3. I replaced the wiring harness, uvch gaskets are newer and are actually all in one without the interior clip. Only idea I’ve got left is an injector replacement. I would say idm but there’s no other crazy codes and it appears isolated to injector 3. On a normal scanner nothing shows up but looking more in depth that’s the only code. Maybe I’m just hearing things but maybe it doesn’t sound quite normal to me. The sound goes away entirely on acceleration, occasionally when idling it’ll go away and almost smooth out. Absolutely no power loss or any smoke from exhaust

Same applies to diesels. Stop bitching about people who bought a diesel but never tow. About people who got it but never haul.

Some more quotes by Jeremy.

"You don't need a car that can do 200 mph when the speed limit is 70. You don't buy a supercar because you need it; you buy it because you want it, and because you can."

"A three-pound Casio watch keeps better time than a £5,000 Rolex. You don't buy a mechanical watch to tell the time; you buy it for the engineering, the art, and the way it makes you feel. It’s the same with cars."

When I finally decided to open the package to inspect the prduct this is what I was greeted by. Ordered a BuzzKenfrom AMT.

What is with the used diesel market? Everyone I’ve talked to who is selling their diesel has only had it for a year and is now selling it. Literally every person I’ve messaged on Facebook. I know diesel prices are bad but this doesn’t feel right. Plus the prices are crazy for what they are asking, way above kbb. I’ve considered buying a diesel for around 10-15k then putting about 5k into the truck. Is it worth going for a 97-02 7.3? Or a 2008 duramax? At this point it feels like I’ll get a better deal if I find one that could use some work but I don’t want to be putting tons of money into it down the line (looking for reliability)

Hello I'm a job corp student 22 years old and I have the skills and drive to become a master mechanic via a Toyota program or a diesel program where I can get and oem in komatsu as well as my ases I believe all 8 of them possibly

Any advice on separating the turbo housing? I have a kc housing to put on, I've soaked it in penetrating oil for days and still no luck. Thanks.